>>52656418 here, I think I found the perfect spot for the teensy in this build
>Where to Buy:
Old thread >>52651763
Is there a particularly effective way of cleaning a keyboard that hasn't been maintained well? I have a lot of spare time as of late and I realized my Das Pro 4 is dirty as all fucking hell, but I'm not sure if pulling the caps and using cotton swabs is the best way to go about this.
How much would a keyboard like that cost?
Cheap 60% = $60-80
Pok3R (good 60%) $120
Custom keycaps: $80
So around $200 if you can find those caps, which would require a bit of hunting since they aren't in stock at any retailer - you'd have to wait for a potential remake or scour forum marketplaces.
i wish my GANSS would hurry up, i want to know if I got memed or not
I dont exactly get what is going on here. Is that a really bad thing on the keycaps or something? I am considering getting myself a brown switch that is ganss. My only concern is people saying that cherry mx are the worst among the brown switch types...
>>rubberdomes is master race.
I'm glad we agree.
>works well with mac
Can confirm brown is best of everything.
No, and anyone who says one kind of switch is better for typing or gaming than another has no clue what they're talking about and you shouldn't listen to their opinion.
Also, anyone who says browns are good has no clue what they're talking about and you shouldn't listen to their opinion.
full blown retarded
key switch type and feel are completely separate things
spend time pressing down different membrane keyboards slowly
do you like the more tactile ones? or do you like the more linear ones?
if you like linear then get reds/blacks
if you like the bump, but want it to be quiet get browns
if you like the bump a lot, dont care if its loud, then get blues or greens
>he doesn't know membrane circuits are closed by the contact in the rubberdome
Literally everyone knows that, retard. You seem to be a step behind the rest if the people in the thread.
you have obviously never used a lot of non mechanical keyboards
some keyboards are more tactile than others.
im not saying that there are 100% linear keyboards, im saying that some membranes are more tactile
There's no contacts in the rubber dome, membrane circuits are constructed by having two membranes sheets with a plastic sheet between them that has holes at the contact points. The rubber dome collapses and presses the contact of the upper membrane on the contact of the lower membrane.
>still thinking that membranes are the same as rubber domes
First you should stop posting like I told you to. Then you should get your terminology right and last you should stop backpedalling like a faggot.
>There's no contacts in the rubber dome
seriously go away
Interesting. Every rubber dome + membrane keyboard I disassembled to date used dual membranes for the matrix like in pic related. I've only ever seen that kind of circuitry with a contact embedded in the rubber dome in a calculator.
I guess we should specify what kind of actuaction mechanism we are talking about in the future.
I have a Leopold fc660m and I want some new keycaps. I have no idea where to buy keycaps for this board since it has an odd amount of keys. I want letters too. I have blanks right now but I want letters back. Thanks.
I've met MEGATONS of rubber domes which used dual membrane circuits.
Your statement that membrane circuits are closed by a contact in the rubber dome is just as invalid as my claim that they aren't. As we have concluded by now, there are various (at least two) types of membrane keyboard circuits. Perhaps we should specify this when talking about membrane circuits from here on.
Or go back to talking about mechanical keyboards in the mechanical keyboard thread.
>Or go back to talking about mechanical keyboards in the mechanical keyboard thread.
But I use rubberdomes!
i heard that 60%'s and miami keycaps were gay
that aint true
I make real nigga money with less keys than a pok3r so yes, you can be productive with one.
>literally the only way to have socks that match the miami caps is to have them custom made ;-;
why do you spread lies?
>how do you up down arrow?
this gets asked every thread.
Do you realize 4chan has archives now?
im gonna get them when i can
tfw no cash atm
will post pics when i get them. along with the keycaps when they come inna mail
i see now
i didn't scroll down cos i was excited
>paypal me all ur life savings
I was thinking about a good old dicking but I see you're just a greedy whore.
I regret linking you the ebay sale now.
that's sweet and all but i don't want a dicking
i am in a relationship
so your lifes savings will have to do instead
>2. Works well with Mac
>3. Preferably 10KL
>4. Not a meme board
ahahahah go away
>it feels like a pump and dump by shills
a lot of the photos are amateurish as fuck.
We are all happy (lol) owners.
>should i fall for the topre meme?
they hold 99% resale value, so it's a pretty safe try even if you end up not liking the meme.
Im looking to buy a new keyboard to replace my 7 yearold $5 logitech. My only rewuest is that its backlit, preferably orange to match my build but that doesnt really matter. I dont care about mechanical keyboards so anything will do in the $30 range. Just want something that looks good and is reliable, the only reason im replacing my current keyboard is because i dont want to work with a lamp on at night all the time.
I can only judge this halfway since I have the regular one and my experience with the type-s stems from typing test videos, but I prefer the regular one.
Especially the thock on the upstroke. It sounds so fulfilling.
get some membrane shit from china.
Decent mechanical keyboards start in the 70 bucks range, 50 bucks if you're lucky or go the absolutely cheapest shit.
And you should learn to touch type.
hey /mkg/, I have a question here. I need quieter typing but still love my Blacks, so I plan to get O-rings. But I might also consider a desk mat. Should I do both, or is one more effective than the other?
this just arrived in the post
mx clears are perfect <3
>just be sure to mention they are perfect for gaming
This. Nothing I buy has this but everything I sell does. Things cost less and are able to resell for more than they would otherwise.
I need a suggestion /g/:
>I'm looking for a keyboard without a numpad or smaller
>It doesn't really matter if it's mechanical or not
>It needs to be black anf have blue leds
>prefferably under 100$ if possible
Its not for me, I wouldn't swap my model m for any keyboard right now, but a friend of mine has a real nice all blue themed setup and is looking for a keyboard.
Gee, if only there were some kind of keyboard with blue lights. I mean, blue lights are so unpopular.
Here you go
You can switch between the two. I don't know what other backlight features it has, I just picked something with blue backlight out of which I heard good things.
Wow, nice! The price is ok as well.
Thanks based anon
Stay strong brother
Friendly reminder that topre users are cucks.
>I am so poor and jelly I need to post this EVERY THREAD to try and find some solace
what's your paypal m8, I'll send you some $10
>why do you guys need so many sets?
I don't even have a cherry board.
this is the last granite run, I will sell them for 150$ a set in 2017
your customers are limited to the amount of people who:
>own mechanical keyboards
>are not 12 year old gamer faggots
it's such an incredibly niche market that most of their stock would gather dust because most people have no interest for high quality keycap sets
Figured as much. I donated my old Model-III to my local uni a few years ago. It still cracks me up when I look at old pictures of the thing.
Honestly, I'm not a fan of the keyboard. It had issues with sticking and seemed impossible to fix. It really didn't seem to age well.
The keycaps themselves are T-mount alps compatible. I'd just use a separate plate/switch and wire up the teensy to that. You won't have to deal with any of the issues of the old pcb, nor bypass the onboard controller. Additionally, you could add keys from the Model-4, like the arrow cluster.
Matt3o specifically said that this won't be a guaranteed "final run". Each of his other GBs were stated that it was the final run, so I sincerely doubt that this is the last Granite run.
Additionally, you'll have an easier time buying R3 sets around the beginning of April, as people start selling their older sets more often because they're worried about the resale price dropping.
More or less, Granite's not going to maintain the same price. I bought one of everything specifically to sell on April 18th (or whenever MD decides to ship it) to the people who missed it, but by the time Batch #2 ships, the price isn't going to hold.
Frankly, I think the only set from the most recent Granite drop that will hold any value is the Sindarin set, since less than 300 were sold.
Buying my first mechanical, should I get a CM Storm QuickFire XT or spend an extra $50 on a WASD V2 104-Key?
ok, this makes things more difficult
I highly recommend you visit a store that has mechanical keyboards, go out of your way if you have to.
Most people seem to like browns/blues, but I personally hate tactile bumps and went with reds.
Don't fall for the switch tester thing, it's not a good representation of what a keyboard will actually feel like.
Postan my cheap Topre with cheap but thick PBT. Still waiting for some group buys to ship.
Vortex keycaps. Not perfect but still thicker than most.
Pretty good. The price of the ISO Novatouch really dropped where I am so I snagged it new for about $110.
Feels awesome, has all the keys I need at home, makes little noise and still lets me use normal keycap sets. It's what Cherry Browns should be but aren't.
I'm sure 1st party Topre might feel slightly better but I'm satisfied for now.
anybody know how to fight wrist strain? i switched to my apple alum. keyboard (chiclet) and realized that i get it bad on my mechs. i dont bottom out at all when i type and im using really light switches. is it the key travel that causes this strain?
What's the cheapest blue switch keyboard I can get without sacrificing quality? Don't need extra bells or whistles and I do not want a TKL keyboard. I have a budget of $150 and ideally I would like to buy two keyboards (one for work and one for home)
If the key travel is causing it you would probably feel something in your fingers/hand too.
Think about your posture and how you've placed your keyboard. You shouldn't have to angle your wrists much at all when typing.
Your hands should be pretty straight in relation to your arm, just move your arm instead. Full size keyboards require more extreme angles because of the added distance to the mouse.
Resting your wrists while typing is really bad.
Yes, just about every set of keycaps I've had my fingers under so far, be it on a membrane keyboard, stock keycaps of a mech or aftermarket keycaps, had those markings on F and J.
Except for this old apple extended keyboard. That one has bumps on D and K. Literally what the fuck apple.
>Do keycap sets usually come with a couple of keys that have the bumps/indentations on F and J? Even blank sets?
Yes except dsa sets that just have deeper concavity on them.
I don't know why you'd ever get some niche layout like that, but if you do, a pok3r is a good choice since it comes with good keycaps right off the bat.
Greens are very nice switches. I'd have gotten my keyboard prior to this with greens weren't they so loud.
i dont rest my wrists on anything but i usually type sitting up in my bed with my keyboard on the mattress. ive been doing that a lot this semester. i try and keep my wrists straight but it always feels like i need to find a way to angle my keyboard. i guess i should start using my desk more often.
i might grab that ergodox if it makes a big enough difference but ill see if using the desk helps.
well i only need to know the difference between mx browns, reds and clears since they're the only kind of switch i can get in my country.
Maybe i should just buy 3 separate switches?
Depends on how certain you are about your choice of switches and on how much the keyboard costs.
I'd say if it's your first keyboard and an investment over 100 bucks, get a switch tester. If it's less than a hundred bucks and you're certain, just get it. Chances are you'll like your first mechanical keyboard a whole lot more than whatever you had before. I liked browns for quite some time before they started annoying me, by the time of which I was ready to move on to my next keyboard (about three month).
If you want your first keyboard to be a long term investment, get a switch tester, or do what anon said and get all three through amazon and return the ones you don't like.
Since your choices are browns, reds and clears, that just leaves you with two keyboards to order. You can skip the browns, clears are the superior version thereof.
I beg to disagree.
My second keyboard was a keyboard with clears and they're certainly my favorite mx switch to date. I tried reds on the switch tester and I hated them.
And then I tried them on a friends pok3r and they actually felt damn nice on a proper keyboard. I'd have to try them more to deliver a proper judgement, but I think linears are actually quite nice if you have them on an actual keyboard.
That being said, browns do indeed feel like shit.
Browns have a weak tactile bump and feel like reds with dirt in them.
Clears have a long and far more pronounced tactile bump. After the bump they become a whole lot heavier. I really like the way this feels, but if you want something light you should go for reds. Clears are the very opposite of "light".
I love having the arrow keys on home row. It's so much faster for when I only need to move a couple spaces.
I've gotten too used to it though and when I move to my laptop I forget and keep toggling caps-lock.
The only two cherry switch types worth owning are red and blue, and since you don't want blue, you have to get red. Brown and clears fucking such. Clears are slightly better than browns but still worse than every single other switch. Clear is like a circumcised blue. It's basically the same thing but not as satisfying and you'll always feel like something's missing.
probably the result of hanging around /r/MechanicalKeyboards for too long, desu. Their search is comfy.
Nordic is the standard where I live. It's actually not very handy in general, but all computers have it, and I like not having to peck when using any other computer.
>I hate when the discussion becomes completely abstract and metaphorical.
>I am okay at offering the Granite indefinitely, there are simply no viable ways! I do not like Massdrop model and TMK is even a worse option.
>. 7bit offered his help once, but with all the love I have for the guy, I don't want Granite to sink into the temporal vacuum of his group buys.
>So, as of now, it's not that I don't want to run Granite again, it's just that I can't.
>Apart from that. Organizing the GB, designing new kits (do you think the Elven kit was easy to design?!), synching with SP, replying to questions on 3 forums takes out a lot of time. And if I do that for Granite, I cannot do that for new projects. So yes, of course I think we should move on.
- sent from my Matt3o
nope, you can see the diodes have separate solder points and are labeled.
after getting some sleep I realized I wasn't happy with the wiring job I did. The wiring is redone now and it definitely wasn't a waste of time. Looks much neater and the pin numbers on the pcb match up with the pin numbers on the teensy now
Going through TaoBao for a new case and stumbled upon this bizarre plate. If I had to guess, it allows you to PCB-mount your alphas while simultaneously plate-mounting your mods. Pretty strange looking plate.
Does anyone have any experience using one of these, or is it just some manufacturer trying to sell a defective plate?
Has anyone ever seen a cable that goes directly from USB A to PS/2? as in, no adapter required? My CM mech has a USB A for some dumb reason...not that any other USB would be easier to find.
How hard would it be to roll my own?
My work has given me a budget to buy a meme keyboard for myself.
Anyone got on views on this?
Would this suit my needs?
I believe that the model 100s are fairly common. I got one for 60 Canadian pesos shipped in leather case with manual, in non working condition due to lower supply issues. At one point someone modified it to use 256k of memory and put a new rom in it. Fixed it, runs great as a terminal though serial. As for the teensy code for the keyboard, someone already has it online.
That's good, but do yourself a favor and get something else than browns.
Get two cooler master keyboards. And I'm quite sure you don't want a keyboard with blues for work unless you want to fear getting poisoned every time you drink a coffee.
Depends on what your needs are.
Which parts of your current keyboard do you use? Do you use the numpad? If yes, get a fullsize.
Do you use the function row and the arrow keys a lot? Get a TKL.
Do you use the function row and the arrow keys semi-frequently? Get an HHKB (Or any other 60%).
Cooler master has a good lineup of entry level keyboard which don't cost too much. Take a look at that if you want to keep your budget within 150 bucks while buying two keyboards.
mechanicalkeyboards.com is also a good place to look around, they don't have everything in stock, but their catalog is huge and they have a good search function too.
Thanks for that, after looking I think the TKL ones look the best.
I do like the HHKB and Vortex 60% ones but I have a massive desk and do use the function and arrow keys quite a bit.
Im not asking for a mechanical keyboard, i only want some keyboard that has a backlight and looks good for ~$30. I dont see a reason for owning a mechanical keyboard and there is no subreddit on this board dedicated to just keyboards.
Tell me about it anon.
I easily spent more than 500 bucks on keyboards and keyboard related goods in what is less than a year ever since I got my first keyboard.
It feels strange to think back and realize that I once thought that spending 70 bucks on a keyboard already overdoing it.
Building a keyboard is a lot of fun. Though it's unfortunately often more expensive than just buying a fully assembled one.
Nothing wrong with ISO, I just feel for you because my first board was also ISO. Then I noticed how ANSI centric the market is and switched to ANSI. There are so little nice keycap sets in ISO.
>Guy who sits behind me uses a Ducky Shine 4
Does that guy browse the /mkg/ too by any chance?
I recall someone here talking about his colleagues love his Shine 4 and that one of his colleagues had a razer blackwidow.
I have no big problem with ANSI (as you can see I have one ANSI)
The biggest thing is that the meme-button (>) disappears so I have to rebind it to another button (also keycaps)
The fucker who decided that "no we shall not have ONE international standard" should be shot imo
Cooler master is about as cheap as it gets with good entry level keyboards.
Why didn't you switch to ANSI earlier on though?
A friend of mine is a programmer and once tried ANSI only to find that he's going to stick with ISO since it's in his muscle memory and learning to use ANSI would be crippling. But if you don't have a problem with ANSI I'd just switch to that completely. Looks more aesthetic and your options for aftermarket keycaps and keyboard building stuff become so much larger than if you're restricted to ISO.
Take a look at the cooler master lineup of mechanical keyboards. They have a good selection of entry level boards. You can get LED color changers (small pieces of plastic that clip over the LED under the keycap) to change a keyboard with white LEDs to orange too.
A E S T H E T I C S
but really what >>52674497 said
Poker2(80 on sale)
metal case(70 on massdrop)
caps(79 on PMK)
sold them off already though for how much I paid for them. I'm not an asshole like most people.
Don't listen to all the spergs out there saying it's incorrect.
Apart from the Matias/Topre choice I'd agree with most of what is said there.
For the simple purposes of the flowchart it's saying that the Matias Quiet would be better with a Topre board, I'm assuming for the keymappings.
AFAIK a HHKB works as well on a Mac as it does any other computer
Browns are a good starting point but they're just not tactile enough.
I disagree. You wouldn't game with buckling springs. Topre is exceptional for typing but feel a bit disjointed while gaming.
Clears are really nice apart from the fact that a) they fit too tightly on keycaps and b) they feel scratchy.
I'm hoping a set of Zealios will fix that problem.
Going to be building a board with them; will be my first MX in a while. Been using a HHKB for the past few years at work, and a FC660C at home.
A friend offered to sell me his mechanical keyboard for $70. I told him I'd think about it; not sure if I can haggle, but I'm going to try.
I tried it out and it felt great. Apparently the switches are Cherry MX Blue. He said it was a Ducky Shine 2 and didn't say anything else about the model. He said he bought it for $120. It has some neat light-up features for the keys but other than that it's nothing special; it connects via USB(unsurprisingly). He said it's been used for almost a year.
I have a keyboard that connects via PS/2 connected to my computer right now. It's a regular rubber dome keyboard and there's nothing wrong with it. If I had the choice, I would prefer a keyboard that connects via PS/2 in comparison to USB, because the PS/2 one functions without drivers, and is more reliable, and I figure it reduces input lag very slightly.
What do you think? What is it worth? Should I buy it?
Bit high. You can get a new QFR for that price.
It's generally a good way to go. The QFR is made by a good OEM and is fine aside from the legend font.
>are aftermarket keys generally shit?
Depends on what you get. WASD is shit, for example. You can get in on the enjoypbt GB now on geekhack - $35 for a set of blanks. Some of the best caps out there.
>Bit high. You can get a new QFR for that price.
Maybe I'll offer him 60 then. I don't want to go above 65 though. I don't know much about mechanical keyboards, but QFRs don't seem like they even offer a number pad or the fancy light up keys; that mechanical keyboard lets you change what keys light up, what colors, how fast they change color, if they change color, all that jazz.
It makes sense that it'd be expensive.
how dank are you though?
They are more quiet then rubberdomes at my school lel.
To anyone with a bunch of keyboards:
How do you justify having so many? Do you use them all/swap them around?
I just bought a HHKB Pro 2 to take to work when I graduate this April - I already own a quickfire rapid w/ browns and a pok3r II with blues that I haven't used much in like the 2 years I've had it.
I really like all sorts of switches and typing on them, but I can't really imagine having more then 2 or 3 keyboards as it's really annoying switching between keyboards constantly.
Looking for a new Keyboard:
Leds cool, but not needed
Would prefer build quality and feel over flashy features?
I don't know if there is a stand out option at the 100-120 range.
Browns are silent, but you haven't experienced silent until you use Topre with silencing rings.
I'm talking the Type-S rings or the clones that Hypersphere made.
Other than my space bar (whose stabiliser desperately needs a lube and re-alignment) the board is dead quiet.
Other than actually purchasing the HHKB it's the best mech keyboard purchase I've made so far.
what keycaps should i grab for my cm storm quickfire rapid-i?
it's the black TKL one with backlights.
is banggood reliable?
also wtf is POM? i understand PBT and abs but i have no idea about pom
So, what...you're only 4 foot tall and your hands can't spread wide enough to use a full size keyboard AND a mouse? Or simply your opinion on aesthetic appeal says wide keyboards are ugly? Sounds like you just don't like that you got suckered into purchasing a 60%/TKL and you're in denial about how much you dislike it, and you're overcompensating.
>your hands can't spread wide enough to use a full size keyboard AND a mouse?
It's more ergonomic to have your forearms parallel and your elbows at your sides.
>Sounds like you just don't like that you got suckered into purchasing a 60%/TKL and you're in denial about how much you dislike it, and you're overcompensating.
That's quite the assumption.