>mom asks why electricity bill is so high
>tell her idk, my psu is the highest rated, most energy efficient
>look in case, see Bronze 850w.
Did I fuck up?
Yeah you did.
First of all, you need to figure out how many watts you need. Most single-GPU builds don't need more than 550w; you can get a 650w just to be sure.
Get an EVGA G2, keep the power-saving feature (a switch on the PSU) on. You'll save plenty of money, it's fully modular, and it has a 10 year warranty.
JonnyGURU gave it a 9.6 out of 10; he actually takes the PSUs apart and looks at the physical parts (not just benchmarking).
Get it for as cheap as you can and never depend on mail-in-rebates. I'm linking amazon only because there's no MIR required and you'll save versus not doing a MIR with newegg. Always assume the company handling the rebate is going to fuck you over, so prefer a discount with no MIR over a slightly higher discount with a MIR.
Can't tell if trolls, or retards. An electrical device will draw whatever it draws up to what the power supply can give. If your computer draws 200 watts, it will draw 200 watts from a 300 watt PSU or a 1500 watt PSU. But it will only draw whatever it draws.
I thought the point people were making was that it was a waste in the original purchase to buy the 850w, not that it was continuously drawing even though it didn't need it.
The real continuous waste comes in the PSU's efficiency, which is why in >>52581139 I suggest a gold-rated PSU.
You are all retards, your supply only draws the current that your PC requires. If it was actually outputting 850W all your components would be fried.
power bill is high because you use your heating and air conditioning. I live in a piece of shit studio and constantly have a PC running, multiple monitors, shit charging, etc. but I have no heat or cooling and only pay ~ $30 a month.
>It only draws with your PC requires.
If that was true that 80 plus bronze would mean literally nothing. I mean, do you even know what that shit means? You literally came into a thread with the premise being the fucking ratings and that is why he fucked up then you proceed to say "IT DOESN'T MATTER CUZ THEY ARE ALL DA SAME LOLOLOL"
Wrong idiot that talks out of his ass detected.
Electronic engineer here.
PSUs are at peak efficiency at around 50%.
Which is why I have a 1500 watt Platinum PSU for my 800 watt (at full power), 4 GPU system.
Running your system on a PSU that is barely enough to support the wattage you need at full power is a great way to overheat, fry your shit or trip the protections in your PSU with normal usage.
There is no actual requirement your PSU operates at any good efficiency below 80% usage though which means a GPU can output tons of energy that isn't used and is discarded as heat, which is the entire point.
If you are so retarded you are going to go the stupid "works for me" route when actually ignoring that you have to engineer the PSU that way you are a retard. The reason your 1500w PSU runs so well at that wattage is because it cost over 150 dollars, and further more what kind of retarded logic is "MY PSU WILL OUTPUT MORE HEAT AT 1500 WATTS THAN 800 WATTS SO OBVIOUSLY USING LESS ON A HIGHER RATED ONE IS BETTER."
80 plus is going to tell you the fucking efficiency rating anyway, that's the entire point of the system. You can KNOW the heat output. You are fucking retarded.
>middle of winter
>power companies hike usage rates during this time of year
>people are surprised at their bill
Your power bill will be higher around this time regardless if your PSU is efficient or not. They know that people are using their heaters more than average so they jack up the rates to rake in the profit. They've done this for decades and decades and it's not going to stop because you keep giving them money.
Either go completely solar with backup battery for occasions like these (although no consumer battery will carry enough wattage to last through winters if they continue like this...Oh who am i kidding it's just going to get worse welcome to global warming) or quit your bitching.
Why can't the house have a high efficiency 12V transformer integrated?
So many fucking things use a transformer anyway.
>people on /g/ don't know how PSUs work
No, you're wrong.
Say your PC needs 200W to run at load. A PSU that is 80 PLUS BRONZE rated simply means that at load, it will need 118% the power, or 236W, to run at 200W at load, as it is only 82% efficient at load, meaning 200W through your PSU isn't actually 200W, but 162W.
I don't even know a lot about electricity or how power supplies work. This is common sense. Computers don't draw a PSU's TDP at all times. That doesn't make any sense and would be insanely inefficient.
All of these things are extremely specific to certain countries, and probably areas in said country if it's big enough.
Here in Norway, we don't heat with gas. It's all electric. Most houses in my area are old, so they're mostly heated by chopping wood and burning them in a stove.
This is a pretty good bait thread.
Generally speaking the maximum spread between some 80plus and 80+ gold is ~10%
That 10% difference depends on how much power you're actually drawing.
Lets say you have a moderate rig that requires 400w during gaming.
With some reverse math, at 80% that means 500w is drawn from the outlet.
at 90% it means only 445w is drawn from the outlet.
A difference of only 55w.
Now lets say you run this computer 12 hours /day every day gaming (eg requiring 400watts of power)
12 (hours per day ) x .055 (in kilowatts now) x 31 (days per month) x 12 cents per kWh (average price in the US) = ~$2.5 PER MONTH
Even if we take account the entire PC running at 500watts for 12 hours a day, the cost would still be only ~$22/month for the PC.
OP if you don't have components that draw 850W then it wont draw 850W. The 850W is the *maximum* amount of power that the PSU can safely handle. Beyond that the PSU will begin to overheat and your output will be noisy.
Realistically you shouldn't ever really get close to the maximum though. 80% of that should be the maximum, the remaining portion acts as a buffer to prevent overdrawing in unusual conditions.
Computers and most electronics don't like 60 cycle hum so that doesn't really fix anything. PSUs are built the way they are because this is the most efficient way to make 120V/240V into 12V,5V,3.3V,etc
>PSUs are at peak efficiency at around 50%.
Technically yes, but most proper PSUs only suffer a minor efficiency loss until ~80% utilization. Buying a 1500w supply for your 800w system (for efficiency reasons alone) is henceforth still pretty retarded, as it will take ages to get that 30$+ back from just buying a 1200w one instead. (Of the same brand and/or quality, of course.)
That is, unless you're stressing your system 100% 24/7 for several years straight.
I can't believe it took this long for someone to point this out
Your components matter more than your PSU when you're talking about power draw. Are you using an FX-8350, OP? Do you play games a lot? A shitty inefficient CPU and an inefficient GPU can easily make your rig draw 600+W from the wall.
Because youd have to run insanely thick wiring to compensate for voltage sag throughout a house. An 800w car amp can pull 800w/14v*1.33(efficiency)= 76amps or more. You need 4-0gauge wiring for that. Where at 120-240v you can use much thinner wire for an equivalent amount of power.