Just picked up a. 05 rotring 600
Im wondering if I should have gotten the rapid pro in 0.7
Anyone have these? Any good?
Just received my first Pentel Graphgear 1000 in the mail yesterday. Import edition from Japan, nonetheless.
I absolutely love it so far.
Arguably giving some extra money for a sturdy metal pencil is a good deal, mostly because it feels sturdy in your hand. I have some cheap noname and while light, it feels flimsy to draw with, even if I do mostly drafting. I been thinking about buying some full metal body pencil, but I don't understand the hype for rotring, it doesn't do much to cover the ridiculous cost.
Well, I purchased a Pentel GraphGear 1000 for $9 after the last thread and I must say it is the best writing utensil I've ever used. The lead is supported in a way that cheap mechanicals don't even bother to do and this leads to a dramatic decrease in snapped lead. I went from 0.7mm to 0.5mm and it still owns. I'm glad the last thread appeared so that I took a chance on buying one.
It's good if you're in a position where you have to use a pencil a lot. It's god tier if you do drafting by hand for some reason. Don't drop it tip first, the sleeve is the Achilles heel of that thing. Replacement tips are available but only in 0,5 mm IIRC. 0,5 is better than 0,7. Enjoy.
It's clear as day you've never used a quality mechanical pencil.
I've a staedtler 925-25 (20$) and it just never jams. The lead never breaks. It doesn't rotate. It never fails to come out. It never fails to retract.
I honestly feel like I will be able to pass out down to my grandchildren if I'll ever have a family.
That's how study it feels compared to a cheap 2$ pencil that you'll have to replace countless times during your lifetime.
I'm almost sold!
Please tell me more about this awesome product!
Can I pay it in installments, is there an offer where if I buy one now I get the second one free, where's the toll free number?
I have a set of graphgear 1000s and 500s, a set of alvin draftmatics, a set of Pentel p200s, a PG5, a Staedtler Mars Technico, and a Faber Castell TK 4600. I have switched over to using my lead holders for most of my pencil writing, because I can get very fine lines. I use 2MM 7H lead and it works great.
>He bought a rotring 600 instead pf a redcircle 600
I have one of these. Self-sharpening and can write on most surfaces incredibly well, including glass. Not as fine tipped as you would expect from mechanical pencils but does the job perfectly.
I enjoy all of my Rotrings, but I'm partial to my Faber-Castells.
pretty much this
I understand forking out for a fountain pen, you can get gold plated ones for $99 on amazon right now:
they're classy and a conversation piece. they *look* like they're expensive. but a mechanical pencil? why?
>the two thousand and sixteenth year of our Lord, the Christ, the Lamb of God
>not using based bic
used steadler pencil when I drafted on paper, nice because they are fast to swap lead types.
cant imagine a non drafter wanting a drafting pencil with drafting graphite. drafting graphite is like 2-3m thick and requires you to rotate the pencil as you draw lines to keep the line width correct (the lead wears down and becomes wider and wider)
Harder leads are best for leadholders in my experience. Hard leads keep their point the longest. I found that 7H Koh-i-noor lead works best for me. It is the hardest I can go before it starts ripping paper. That is the lead that is pictured in my comparison.
This lead takes a month to ship, but it is good and only $5.
Pentel makes a few good .3mm pencils. I have the p203, the Graphgear 500, and the graphgear 1000 in .3mm. I also have an alvin .3mm pencil, but it seems to be lower quality compared to my matching set of alvin pencils in other sizes.
I've been using these korean TUL pencils, and i'm not autistic so i didn't order it direct from korea, i got it from officemax or something
anyways the thing is, this brand somehow is able to automatically advance the lead.
you don't really notice how sweet that is until you go back to a different brand. TUL for life
Because if you don't have a precision machined all-steel body it's going to break down in the middle of alaska, right?
A rotring's tip is just as likely to bend and become nonfunctional as any other drafting pencil's. But at least the body won't crack or scratch to no ill effect, right?
pencil == technology
did you make it to grade 1 OP
Hopefully you will get one that turns to a dildo and starts raping you violently while taking your tests.
Whenever I write letters to family and friends that moved away, I use a Pilot Plumix. Eventually I will get a calligraphy pen for the envelope, but this does just fine.
I'm annoyed. I spent like 6 hours researching what kind of fountain pen I should buy. Picked one perfect for my needs, then I realized I would regret spending $40 on a pen, even though it looks classy as fuck and can do calligraphy.
>He spent all his money on an imported mechanical pencil and settled for a laptop with that disgusting keyboard
>implying I'm not old enough to have learned cursive in school
I later realized that printing was just as fast (the fastest writing is a modified print form) and tremendously more legible to all who read it.
>getting this upset over fountain pens and mechanical pencils
maybe ur retard?
This really is the pinnacle of gearfagging.
I bet most of you don't actually write nor draw, as per fucking usual. You're surely too busy arguing about the ideal paper to use it on
I never paid for a pen in my entire life. I got so much for free when working at companies, as a gift to clients, and other promotional pens, that I regularly have to sort through those and throw /give away half of it if I don't want my house to crumble under the weight.
Most are BIC pens, which are absurdly good, and I mostly use retractable pens because they're more practical. That's it.
Enjoy justifying buying expensive stationary to "save money in the long term" when I'm close to making money selling those extra pens on eBay.
More power to you anon.
>buying expensive stationary to "save money in the long term"
I mainly do so for fun and pleasure of writing.
You've got gunfags, carfags, well, there are penfags too.
It's just a hobby, don't look too deeply into it.
I will, thank you.
>on a fucking 'flex' stainless steel nib
Because it looks nice, feels nice, and is generally a nicely designed thing. You know, the same reason you buy anything you don't actually really, really need. Because you enjoy it.
I know. I've had one. In fact it's the 599A. They're actually great. The 599 is complete ass though, brass bodied which is solid and nice but the nib looks like a pilot varsity and barely works
>which no one is enthusiastic about but you
My first pen was a Noodler's Ahab with a piston pump problem; my second was a Konrad with hard starts, and my third was a Pilot Metropolitan.
I HIGHLY recommend you get a Metropolitan F or Safari in EF as your first pen. The Ahab is fun (I eventually got one that works, but the standard line is too broad for my handwriting), but you do need a mainstay first. Even a $5 EF Preppy is fine.
I don't get the Murican fascination with those. I haven't met a person in my country who doesn't consider them utter shit. Everyone prefers normal use-a-sharpener pencils instead.
ive tried that and a pilot metropolitan and i must say the pilot metropolitan is so much more comfy in the hand. pic related.
what ink do you guys recommend?
i want a really thick dark black.
Technology ("science of craft", from Greek τέχνη, techne, "art, skill, cunning of hand"; and -λογία, -logia) is the collection of techniques, skills, methods and processes used in the production of goods or services or in the accomplishment of objectives, such as scientific investigation.
>Notify me when this product is back in stock!
Keyboard is fine. Deal with it.
hard starts and such are nearly always fixable esp. on ebonite feeds with heat setting. I even fixed a plastic feed I melted shut by accident with acetone just by carving a channel out.
I recommend wality or airmail over noodler's indian pens though.
That TUL pencil is underrated imo, it's a really great pencil.
The pencil itself has a really neat rubber body, great eraser, and the writing experience is smoother than my Rotring and Graphgear. Construction is kinda cheap but it's still a nice pencil.
Mine doesn't auto advance the lead, though. I'm pretty sure the whole gimmick was the lead cushion system that prevents breaking when you push too hard.
I replaced the sandpaper in this sharpener and I got it to work again.
Currently using these, thinking about getting a rotring 600 or graphgear 1000
What would be a good multi-color pen? I find that multicolored are most efficient at taking notes in class.
I love mine. It feels better in my hand than my Staedtler lead holder. The lead tube inside is solid brass, and you can take it apart and see the mechanism, unlike the Mars Technico. The plastic also seems to be better quality on the 4600.
Keep in mind that it is very thin, which I love and find very comfortable, but some people hate thin writing instruments. If you like a slightly thicker lead holder the Mars Technico may be good.
Having owned both, I like the graphgear a lot better. The rotring is basically a bic plastic mechanical pencil wrapped in metal for $30 plus the tip design is retarded and fragile, the graphgear feels way better.
So other than it being thin, how is the comfort? I don't really mind size as long as it isn't too hard or plasticky feeling.
Are the Staedtler and FB both plastic? Are there any good metal ones?
Sorry about the questions, I am relatively new to pencils, having used pens for a long time.
The Staedtler has a knurled metal grip, but a plastic barrel. I have not tried any full metal ones. The FC has a plastic grip with lines for traction. Some people find it uncomfortable, but it feels perfect to me. It is similar to the grip on a pentel PG5.