Before the shitposting takes over, can someone answer my question from last thread?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqJJ-2cRR0M [Embed] I hear a small static buzz in the left ear on the second chord of this song. Likely to be fixed by using an amp or problem with headphones? Going to ask a friend to try his dac/amp stack soon.
>>52553142 Either your ears are very sensitive to K702's treble peaks or, more probably, your K702 is underpowered. The K702 (and generally many other AKG headphones) generally benefit from an amp and it's not just a matter of loudness. It's a matter of sound balance: when amped, the K702 has better mids and bass, which make the treble sound less harsh. Once you plug your K702 to your Fiio E10K, listen to them and let us know how they sound to you. Also it's not strange that your K702 doesn't sound as loud as your HD558: HD558 sensitivity is around 122 dB/V, whereas K702 sensitivity is 105 dB/V! You obviously need more power (not simlply more volume) to drive them.
>>52553412 >>52553585 >>52553614 Ecc.ecc... You were too many to quote...However, both K702 and HD600 are neutral headphones, none of them is more neutral than the others. Choosing the correct graph to prove your point doesn't help much, because graphs provide very different measurements. K702 has better mids, HD600 has better upper mids/treble. Speaking of bass, HD600 has slightly more powerful midbass, whereas K702 has slightly better bass extension (slightly more powerful sub-bass). It's not an absolute truth and it depends on the single unit.
>>52558048 I know, but somehow my HiFimediy DAC weaken the bass compared to my discrete DAC toaster. And I can't find the right EQ for it. But I didn't know the static sound from my laptop is caused by electric static or not. So I think to get upgrade my DAC as I hate the ergonomic of HiFimediy. But nearly all decent DAC under $100 come in form in DAC/AMP, so it really bothers me.
>>52558189 he doesnt understand the relationship between impedance and phase. youre buying his crap where hes overconfident in what he understands for no reason. the k702s are harder to drive, yes. but if anything, the amp will change the way the hd558 sounds more than a k702, as it is less affected by high output impedance
I'm looking for nice in-ear earphones for <$40. What is the best? I saw this in a previous thread, is it the best? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HP3OB0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=904ENPS5OXZL&coliid=I3HHROHGWSA85P
>Budget $100 (preferably less but can go up to $200) >Location USA >Source Laptop >Preferred type of headphone full-sized >Open or closed undecided >Comfort level ear pads are a good thing >Preferred music video game (osu!), youtube, anime >Past headphones MDR-ZX100 (like:ear pads, fit 'how tight it is on head', adjustability, weight) (dislike: cord length 'not long enough')
>>52558340 >I've only had closed previously and like the isolation (noisy neighbors, proximity to train tracks) but if open will give a better listening experience I'm willing to give them a try yeah no you'll want closed
>>52558355 what kind of fucking volume do you blast your shit at average volume doesn't block out anything on my semi-opens, let alone full open You want the guy to fuck up his ears?
>>52558241 m40x/m50x, depending if you want more bass for more money
>>52558381 no. the treble will move up linearly with the rest of the spectrum. he will achieve exactly the same volume he did before, capped by his inability to turn up the volume any higher because the treble will sound the same
>>52558415 our hearing is indeed the most easily biased sense we have. if he feels like the amp helps him, then thats great, i have no problem with it.
but, every detail matters though. maybe your original source was particularly bad, where his current one is fine. after all, its not like the k702 isnt known to be a bright headphone. i cant see how a better amp would change that that much. its -supposed- to be bright. a bad source would make it worse, like yours might have been, and the amp simply tamed it, and you dont think it's too bright now because it helped, but it's still bright as far as neutral is concerned. i find this to be the likely scenario.
>>52558448 I can tell you right now HD558 will be more neutral & better sounding than m40x m40x will have far better isolation than hd558, you won't be hearing jack shit even when nothing is playing m50x will have more bass than m40x (and a third detachable cable, which is shorter than the rest and I'm assuming you don't want)
wait, how do you use it on laptop & have the cord not be long enough
>Budget $180 AUD >Location Australia >Source Mostly PC >Preferred type of headphone No preference >Open or closed Closed >Comfort level Comfy enough to sit on my head for hours. >Preferred music Most genres, a lot of electronic and alternative music. >Past headphones Never owned any quality pair before.
>>52558805 It's used in loudspeakers with multiple drivers. In bi-amping, each amplifier powers its own frequency range(separate amplification for bass driver and another for midrange/tweeter). The idea is to bypass the conventional and inefficient passive crossover within the loudspeakers and instead use an active crossover to split the signal electronically before the the signal gets fed to the loudspeaker. Passive crossovers always introduce some amount of distortion to the system which may or may not be audible, bi/tri-amping is supposed to avoid this. In order for this to work the loudspeakers need to have separate binding posts for the drivers. It's either two amplifiers a system where one amplifier handles low frequencies and the other midrange and high frequencies or two amplifiers per channel with similar distribution of the frequencies. Idea is sound but audible benefit from this is another question entirely. Crossovers vary a lot by design, too.
Headphones almost always use a single full range driver. Daisy chaining amplifiers would not yield any benefits but I suspect you could break a thing or two by doing that. Besides you'd be limited by the performance of the worst amplifier in your system even if you could make that work.
>>52558455 >>52558394 You're still missing the point of what I meant in >>52558381. Maybe I wasn't clear enough. I wasn't saying that the K702 isn't bright nor that an amp can tame the treble. What I was saying is that using an amp can help making the K702 sound more balanced. I plugged the K702 into my Asus laptop (not very powerful) and into my E10K and the difference of sound was quite noticeable. When I raise the volume on my Asus, I can hear the treble get progressively louder whereas the mids and the bass don't gain much volume. When I raise the volume on my E10K, I can clearly hear that the bass and the mids get as louder as the treble. At the end the K702 still sounds a little bright even on the E10K (this is its sound signature after all, you can't change it), but the final result is surely an overall more balanced and pleasant sound.
How good are the JHP 9500s? I was originally looking at the superlux 668b but it seems everyone was drooling over the Philips. Incase it matters, main use would be used for gaming and plugging it into my receiver.
I need some IEMs that sound good and are cheap to maintain pretty much forever. I'm going to wear them daily for most of the day. It's important that all the components can be replaced.
I'm about to have to send back my ER-4's for the second time as it approaches its second year as one of the transducers is going out. I don't think I can buy replacement transducers without sending them in which is like $85+shipping+no IEMs for a week or more. Very annoying and kinda costly to the point I almost don't feel like it. I could do it under warranty one last time but then I'd be screwed the next time.
Hey guys, I just broke my shitty Philips O'Neill SHO9567GN and wanted to replace it with something that would live more than 1 year.
>Budget 50 to 100€ >Location France >Source PC mostly but also smartphone and laptop >Preferred type of headphone No preference >Open or closed closed >Comfort level I should be able to wear it day long. >Preferred tonal balance I don't know anything about that >Preferred music Weeb music and classical. I would also use it to play video games. >Past headphones I've got an AKG-K701 but can't use it anymore since the headband is carving its little bump in my skull.
Note that I would use it on my bicycle and maybe while running but it's not really important.
>Budget $200 but prefer under $100 >Location Australia but I can import thru Amazon >Source Desktop PC, laptop, Android phone and tablet >Preferred type of headphone Earbuds, pic related >Open or closed >Comfort level >Preferred tonal balance I don't know what these mean >Preferred music Video game soundtracks, podcast/audiobook speech, metal >Past headphones Sony EX-51 - best headphones I've used, haven't found better yet, pic related, you can get them for $7 off eBay these days Plantronics Backbeat Go 2 - they're OK, bluetooth is handy, microphone is handy SoundMagic E10S - unimpressed considering the price Senn CX300 - pathetic, like listening underwater
>Budget around €50 (/$50) >Location Netherlands >Source no external amp/dac, so up to 64ohms because I'll be using them with my phone most often >Preferred type of headphone IEMs >Comfort level will be wearing them for extended periods of time >Preferred tonal balance slightly accented mids, no rolled off treble but not bright either >Preferred music varying, I'm set on the tonal balance >Past headphones currently using piston 3s and looking for an upgrade
>>52560703 >Open or closed >Comfort level >Preferred tonal balance Open or closed means the design of the headphones. Some headphones are open back which mean they don't isolate at all. Since you are asking for earbuds(or perhaps IEMs?), this matters little. There are differences in isolation with these too although almost all of them are closed.
Comfort is self explanatory. If comfort is something you value over other factors, state it. Comfort is personal and some in-ears/headphones fit others better than some. There are models which are pretty much universally comfortable and some which tend to be uncomfortable, especially if worn for long periods of time.
Tonal balance is a rough estimate of what you want your headphones to sound like. Neutral, bassy, bright or V-shaped for example.
Since you mentioned earbuds but describe your usage and past headphones which are all in-ears, I think in-ears are what you are looking for. Earbuds all sound like shit compared to a decent pait of in-ears.
I'm going to recommend you Etymotic HF5. They might be uncomfortable but are fairly neutral and isolate really well.
>>52561345 I guess you're right. I'm just not looking to spend too much on iems which only last me about a year. I'm just hoping for something like the soundmagic e50/e30 with a slight boost to the mids I guess. It may not exist but I hope it does
>>52561624 the placebo might've gotten to me but I really do not find them too bassy, just a tad too much maybe. I would describe them as warm (w shaped maybe) but the mids are more prominent than the bass. I don't hate bass, I just dislike somewhat because often it's given priority over/drowns out the mids. You are somewhat right though, remember I'm looking for an upgrade. they really are not vshaped though
>>52561902 well I guess it factors out when I consider that, and the fact that the pair before my piston 3s was very bassy but after two weeks of using them and hating them, my order took 3 weeks to get here so I guess I'm biased too when it comes to iems
What price range do i look in for a not-shit home cinema system? I'm watching movies now on the basic television speakers and it sucks. I know i should have a budget before i start looking but i have no idea what's considered good for what price. It's tricky to put speakers on the back wall in the room so i guess i'd want a 2.1 setup. It's mainly for movies.
I know it's not headphones but this seemed like a relevant thread to ask this. Thanks in advance.
>>52563424 I like UE too, their CIEMs are definitely top tier, but in terms of UIEMs, I think FitEar is a very good brand. Well, if you don't like FitEar, another good alternative is JH or EarSonic's UIEMs, I guess.
>Budget <$350 AUD >Location Australia >Source PC >Preferred type of headphone Full-size >Open or closed Closed >Comfort level Enough to last a day >Preferred music Deep house, electronic, video games >Past headphones My sennheiser 280 pro died (RIP). They were my first and only high end headphones; >mfw i first used them. Anything that could top them?
>>52567135 if it hurts ever so slightly you're way too loud, you should have it at the level were you want to turn it up a small notch but then you do not. if you do you can suffer slight damage over extended periods of listening. slightly softer than what you think is the max
A question to all my companions who are driving the K702 with a Fiio E10K: how much do you usually turn the knob and what are your volume settings? I usually turn the knob at level 2-3 on low gain without bass boost.
>Budget 600~ USD >Location Norway >Source Aune T1 DAC >Preferred type of headphone Full sized >Open or closed Closed >Comfort level Should be suited for prolonged use >Preferred tonal balance Neutral/V-shaped, not so important >Past headphones DT 770 Pro 80 Ohm - Best I've used DT 1770 Pro - Had rattling problems with these Shure 1840 - Great, but prefer closed back.
>>52568300 ah okay. i was kind of wrong anyway. the srh1540 should be want you want to get, but it will be more bassy than v shaped. the treble moves down, overall in a neutral fashion but like a mountain range, so it will be spiky
>>52568334 Thanks. I considered the srh1540's but if they're anything like the 1840's, although very light they kind of hurt the top of my scalp after a bit of use. But the tonal balance does seem nice and fits my taste.
I have a really dumb idiot question so ignore this please if that offends you and you have the need to announce it.
So the latest pairs of headphones I own both have popping noises while listening to audio. Had Porta Pro and I recently got the MDR7506. To attempt to fix the problem I bought a usb DAC, there is still popping however. Is it safe to say that the headphone itself is causing the problem and not my motherboard? The popping noises occur in my MP3 player as well for both headsets and I was wondering what could be the possible reasons for the popping noises?
>>52569509 then id be blaming your hearing. if youve switched sources, media, and headphones and their connectors, your hearing is the only thing left, as long as the popping always sounds the same, that is. if it sounds different in different setups then you might be able to glean a clue
>>52569915 >>52569939 Well I can replicate instances of popping and create environments where the popping noises are present but I'm not sure if that means anything. I really hope it's not my own hearing.
Set up my simple first measurement rig and managed to get REW in a decent working order with calibrations and whatnot. These are some initial results of HD 800 + EQ. Not how it sounds like, nowhere near this pretty. I will have to mess around with everything to make these repeatable(haven't even tested yet) and much more reliable.
I got mine the other day, and I already had chance to appreciate their brain tickling nozzles, and their insane noise isolation.
Sound wise they feel like extremely refined, the music sound precise, if you pass me the term, and I totally love how they sound, however I'm a bit disappointed by the bass; not the quantity, but rather the volume: even when listening to things like Jethro Tull, where the bass guitar is absolutely central in many passages, it isn't as lively and emphasized as it should be. Can you suggest me a good EQ for Android? I want to try giving a little boost on the bass because I don't like missing the bass guitar in my favorite songs.
>>52570504 >simple first measurement rig What is the coupler? How have you set it up? What was the initial HD800 result?
>>52570550 >Who /HF-5/ here? A while ago. Not anymore. >suggest me a good EQ for Android? Neutron is a player that has a parametric EQ built in. I have some misgivings about the Onkyo HF player, but it has the EQ. System wide, Viper 4 Android, but the graphic EQ is not impressive. The convolver is legit and what you would want to use, but that requires more work than a parametric EQ to explain.
>>52570823 Thanks for the suggestions. Since I need a system wide EQ I gave a look to Viper 4 Android, but it seems more complicated than I need, not counting the wall of ideograms in the description and screenshots.
>>52570823 I'll post pictures tomorrow. I'm still missing some parts and there is no proper coupler yet. It's a mic located at a position close to ear canal entrance, not quite flush mounted. Around the entrance is a plate covered with foam at a slight angle which seems to seal decently well.
Initial HD 800 measurement looked like the usual HD 800 but amplitude variation seemed smaller overall. Especially the dip in upper mids and 6-8kHz region seemed tamer.
Noticed the little clear plastic thing attached to the leather headband on one side of my K7XX is halfway snapped (one side is snapped the other is intact) is this something to worry about? Can it be replaced?
Sup /g/, I'm no audiophile but I'd like to get into it. the other day I was at my buddies house and tried out his bose trusound. These where one of the most comfortable set of headphones I had ever worn, but I noticed the sound was kinda soft( I guess thats how you would describe it) So my question is, is there anything with better sound quality and just as comfortable? any suggestions? I saw the bose in my base exchange for like $180, my budget is $200.
I'm looking for a new pair of UIEMs (since I've never owned a decent pair). I think that I've narrowed my choices down to the Soundmagic E80 or the Shure SE215. However, I was curious if anyone who has had or used the SE215 and upgraded to the 315 or 425 think that it is really worth the extra money?
My logic is that either I buy the SE215 now, or buy the E80 and save up for the 315 or 425 later, then use the E80 as a backup pair. Thoughts?
>>52566125 >Ever worry about headset hair? And that's why I switched to IEMs a couple years ago. Was creating a permanent crease that couldn't be completely washed out. People even started commenting on it.
It's okay, I'm sure I'll start losing my hair one day and get to switch over to K701s.
>>52567135 Your ears are going to (gradually) break anyway as you get older. As long as you aren't physically hurting you might as well just go for it and enjoy the music. You listen to music to enjoy it, right?
Of course don't if you're already hearing impaired or have tinnitus or something. But it's not like you even want to hear a 17-20khz tone. It's not pleasant and you're not going to miss it. I don't.
Are the DT770 250 ohm worth the extra $80 for an amp over the 80 ohm version with no amp? I know they're supposed to sound more neutral compared to the v shaped 80s, but how much different are they really? Enough to spend $80 extra?
I'm using an old stereo receiver to power my passive monitors and sometimes for my headphones. There's some hum when the speakers are on with nothing going through. Is that a sign it needs to be re-capped? How do I figure out what capacitors I need to buy, where do I get them, how do I remove/install them, etc?
Is there a guide to trusted CIEM and IEM brands? i feel like every day there is a new manufacturer selling thousand dollar ciems with dozens of balanced armatures, it would be nice if there was a good comparison.
>>52577067 >guide to trusted CIEM and IEM brands? i Not really? As good as you can do is read reviews on headphonelist, but I at least know that the two original reviewers (Joe and Joker) have their own taste. Measurements are very limited with the upper crust of in-ears. I have only a few plots lying around.
>i feel like every day there is a new manufacturer It's an easy field to get into.
>thousand dollar ciems with dozens of balanced armatures >moar coars meme Close enough, isn't it?
Rather than carefully try to examine which is good or not, I can just say it is a waste of armatures.
What are the go-to entry level in ear phones? Im talking like up to like 40 bucks. What matters to me the most is build quality as Id prefer not to replace them every 2 months. I dont have sound preferences as far as they sound better than laptop speakers.
>Budget $120-150(will go to 200 if you can convince me it's worth) >Location Canada >Source Desktop >Preferred type of headphone full-sized >Open or closed Closed (if i decide to watch porn with volume, dont want anyone to hear) >Comfort level dont want sore ears or head, doesn't need to be immaculate. >Preferred music Wide variety, but if i listen to rock/electronic i want it to sound good. >Past headphones You'll just make gaymer jokes at me.
>>52577368 >>52577214 In theory more armatures sounds ideal, each armature working on a set range of frequencies dividing up the work. At what point does it stop being beneficial? 3, 4, 6 armatures? I'm guessing it's also the quality of the armatures being used right? What's the point of diminishing returns with IEMs and CIEMs?
>>52577592 80 ohms, no 250 ohms, yes I read you were planning to get an amp, didn't read the rest of that post 250 ohms is basically the same as 80 ohms, but if you can find them for the same price of the 80 ohms and you already have an amp/are planning to get one you might aswell get the 250 ohms one
What amp are you getting that costs 222 btw
>>52577424 I got mine of bigbargainonline on ebay & they're real, arrived in a week or so even though the delivery time was 3-5 weeks estimate
>>52577580 It just my opinion. But I think 3 BA is the maximum amount for covering low,mid and high frequencies. More than 3 will cause some coherence issues. The diminishing return will be different for each people as usually over $200 IEM will sounds coloration on each own. If you want neutral IEM-sound, I think $150 is the point of diminishing return.
>>52577580 >each armature working on a set range of frequencies dividing up the work That's not how the crossovers are usually arranged. Common way is to stack TWFKs into one frequency range, the little dual driver that used to be popular as a standalone turnkey product. You should take a look at the TWFK size, it is a really tiny driver, so stuffing them into a shell isn't that hard.. It's more about chest thumping a number than any real design reason. It's very common to have 10-12 drivers with only a 3 way first/second order crossover, cheaping out even at the high end
The acoustics are simple enough, it sums up in a lumped circuit model very nicely. The drivers themselves do not have such a good response, and this is where your problems start to come in. Lots of high frequency modes, and most have very underwhelming treble extension. BA isn't necessarily better sound quality than a dynamic driver either.
Here is a somewhat dated chart showing the BAs used in IEMs. http://www.head-fi.org/t/604851/
Is there anyone here who prefers to use earbuds for any reason?
I recently bought these little shits from Aliexpress. Usually head-fi meme gear is flat out awful and I fell for that shit many times, but these are really good, they sound legit better than my other earbuds such as the Sennheirser MX580 and AKG K319 which costed 50 and 80 bucks respectively. Of course they are far better than low tier earbuds such as the AKG Y15 and the 10 bucks Senns.
Has anyone here tried their other more expensive models?
>>52577975 Also just checked and the black MSR7 is selling at $186 right now on US Amazon at least, so if you're willing to forgo some comfort that's another option if you can get it at a comparable price.
>>52577983 550s in canadian currency is going to come to like 400 dollars after tax, IF shipping is free. what are the dt990s like? found a dt990 80 ohms for $238 or a dt990 250 ohm pro with the same dac amp for $397
>>52578106 >would like to start streaming/recording though. yeah something like the blue yeti or... Audio Technica AT2020 is a good choice. A Modmic or even just a ZMMIC1 would serve you jsut fine if you're just starting out, but if you decide to upgrade down the line the money you spent on that previous mic is pretty much a waste
What does /g/ think about the Parrot zik 2? I found it discounted from 300e to 200e.
>Active noise cancelling >Bluetooth >Qi charging >Tactile panel on the ear for volume, tracks and calls >Neat leather body >Auto pausing when taken off the ears >App for battery, equalizer, everything compatible with a smart watch
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