old one's on autosage
d-d-d-do you have it
1/2 because back
Also Rip flash but haven't felt like taking a better pic
>mom, I need a full tower!
Nice memes, 7/10
Manage those cables you mongoloid
10/10 nice photography skills
I don't think my rig is a 10, I give it a 7 or 8 because it's just memes and I can't take good photos.
rate if you would like ive changed some of the cables need to take a new picture.
First guts I'll ever post will be the first build I'll make for myself this year.
Anyone try out the Phanteks Mini XL yet?
I want to combine my shitposter/NAS box with my lite gaming rig.
I have 8 case fans on this one if you count the not-pictured side panel fans and the ultra kaze in the optical bay slots.
10/10 everything is sex
Mom you don't understand /10
Shit colored mobo , shit fans , shit waifu/10
People who buy expensive cases and don't bother with cable management make me autistic /10
Almost all red /10
Here's my back
Just finished it building it like 30 minutes ago :D
Just got the blue cables the other day, still deciding on what cpu cooler to get
650Ti, dual-port Intel PRO/1000 PCIe, RAID card that was removed after this pic was taken, USB2 card for more ports because nForce is a dick, and an Audigy 2 ZS pushing 13 glorious years in service.
Sprry guys grabbed the low quality pic by mistake
the CPUs and RAM respectively turned 10 years old two and three weeks ago (according to the RAM's mfg. date via SPD) and the motherboard itself has a few months ahead of it before it hits that mark.
Here's an old pic of the back side. it's still fairly relevant, I think. not much has changed in 4 years except a couple of drives.
I had my guts in a sleeper case at one point. Everything got too damn hot though.
We are all autisitic with too much time on our hands. It took me forever to find the right motherboard for >>52538367 and I was contemplating not buying it because of the few blue accents. Luckily sharpie comes in handy.
thankfully this one has some pretty awesome airflow, mostly because it was originally supposed to be a server or workstation of some manner. this, and there's also two 70mm intake fans up in front of the hard drives running on 5v. they were originally Delta fans for older AM2 stock heatsinks.
I'll see how well the CPU keeps cool at load when the CNPS5X comes in this week or next.
Same, but it's a meme color now so nobody uses it
You can over power any color of guts with green LEDs. What makes a rig have aesthetic appeal is when the hardware actually all matches without the LEDs. Good luck finding all green hardware.
really hope that had its logic board and analog board recapped and such. it's pretty much required now. they all leak.
pic related, inside on my IIvx when I got it.
Not actually needed on the SEs, they used axial capacitors (lke the Plus) that aren't prone to leakage. Biggest killer is PRAM batteries, as with most old Macs.
Classic Macs hold up pretty well to time like that other anon said.
IIs on the other hand? Fucking forget it. I've gone through 4 IIcis and none of them have lasted longer than a week or so of continuous use. Kind of want to get them recapped but I have other projects that need my money more urgently.
I ordered some new white tubing so it won't look like semen. Also new black nickel fittings, a flow indicator and I'm gonna put my dual 40mm radiator in the top, above the power supply.
only one I had in the right size to fit.
the original is green and was killed with the rest of the components in the case. it and a bunch of other newer PCs were scrapped because of a lightning strike at some guy's business down in PA and it killed all his computers. this was apparently the domain server.
don't worry, I have plans to replace the LEDs with proper colors soon. the green LED for the disk activity is very dim as well, also all I had.
Going to be a dust magnet/10
Unless your side panel is some mega fucking monster fan than is somehow putting out more airflow at a higher pressure than all of those exhaust fans combined, your negative pressure case is going to fill with dust within 12 months.
>bbut I've got dust filters!!!!!1111!!1!!one
You have Negative pressure, your 'intake' dust filters are worthless, air and dust are creeping in from every crevice.
Or you can do preventative maintenance every few months and not give a shit about pressure.
Main rig plus Ubuntu rig for home server duties and Linux dicking-around
Buy a modular PSU
Buy a black SFX PSU for the bottom
Always go for braided cables
Embrace the spiders-nest shitshow that is your case ;_;
Anon, don't deal with wire lengths in the case, you have the entire back of the case to work with. Fold wires, especially your sata cables in the rear so you don't have to deal with the excess.
Having a modular PSU won't solve much if your wire management ability still sucks. The most difficult part of having a non-modular PSU are the wire bundles. The wires themselves entwine with each other and this causes bulges and uneven thickness throughout the length. The best thing you can do with your setup is to untangle the shitstorm, separate all the cables and carefully realign the wires in each bundle, followed by a zip tie. This will mostly prevent the wires from separating and entwining, making the width even along it, and makes it rather tidy. The wire gages used for PCs are often thick and sturdy enough to be bent into position, so angling wires isn't much of a challenge, as long as the ties aren't too tight. Zip tied bundles will rarely ever change their run angle because of the friction between each and every wire running through, so take your time and run through that. Your bottom PSU may benefit from being flipped over, as it leaves the wires closer to the base and looks generally tidier, but your performance may vary due to temps being added by the PSU.
Tuck wires and bundles in the corners where possible, and avoid running multiple bundles over. Strategically run lanes of bundles over each other in such a way that no more than two flattened bundles are stacked - this reduces your total wire height against the rear of the mobo tray. Your front panel wires may be tucked vertically along your drive trays for neatness.
Braided cables are nice. However, be wary of those cheapo sheathed net cables, as they can buckle and leave some excess net around the cables. You can braid your own cables, but that may be too time and effort intensive.
Just learn to fold wires around your finger, play with lengths and get some zip ties. I got 200 for 4 bucks.
Cheers anon - When I finally put the hard drives in it, I'm going to do a lot of tidying
Because I really like this case and wouldn't really want two separate ones. It also worked out way cheaper than actually buying two separate high quality cases, although with my skills it does look like shit
I still think that the NZXT Source 210 is still the end all, be all for budget builds. $35 for a shit ton of options (does only come with one fan though).
And I finally got a good picture from a build from earlier.
What exactly are we meant to have?
-Define S (If you're a water cooler)
-Phanteks Enthoo Pro M
Personally for an ATX build with Air or AIO cooling, I highly recommend the NZXT S340, VERY good cable management and very clean look with the full PSU shroud.
8/10 pretty good
8/10 that is actually impressive, and gives room for improvement.
7/10 crazy-ass motherfucker right here.
6/10 all over the place. look into hexcore Xeon upgrades you could be making, and figure out your cooling situation.
stillgoingtolooklikesemen/10 clean your PSU wires up a bit.
blurry/10 wait for Zen. Rhyme unintended.
7/10 PSU wires need to be cleaned up a bit if allowed for it in the case's design.
I play older games, UT99/2k4/Q2/Q3A and some newer titles off Steam, but not all the time.
it's still working because you were one of the lucky ones. 8/10 good job broski.
>AMD Radeon SSD
I really hope you didn't pay money for that. if you did, good goy. 8/10 otherwise.
>Windows 7 Ready!
I want to bet money that's running 8.1 or 10 though, for some reason. 7/10
>bottom exhaust fan
>where cold air should be coming in
do you know anything about thermodynamics or what zipties are? 3/10
9/10 oh god that's nice.
flip your PSU around for one. the GPU and the PSU are going to be fighting for airflow. Secondly, it'll allow you to channel the EPS12v connector snaking upwards as you'll have enough wire to make it happen. tuck the excess.
is there some reason why you can't just use the vent that is punched out specifically for this purpose under the PSU?
>Flip your PSU.
>Use the back plate for your CPU cable, or route behind the mobo if there isn't one.
>All cables should be behind the backplate, instead of that clusterfuck mess.
>Audio cable should be either behind the mobo, or through the PSU push-out from the backplate
>GPU cables should be pulling up the card, or along its side to look better
>Hide all cables that can't go anywhere in the drive bays
>See if you can fit your HDD in the drive bay, if not, move it to the bottom of the rack, and get rid of the other unused trays
>CPU cooler should be rotated to allow for better routing along the fan, instead of in a wad
It should look something like this; even though it's ITX, a lot of the cables are behind the mobo because it would look ugly otherwise. Even the 24 pin ATX cable is behind the mobo because of its weird placement on the board.
You have a long way to go.
I'll post my current build before I head to bed. And remember, don't slack with your cable management.
it might be, but in his case it's certainly a possibility.
your board isn't ITX, it's MIcroATX. but you have strong advice and I certainly hopes he heeds it.
would it be possible to put a psu there to power the pi and say 4 hdds?
>Not using HDD racks for their intended purpose
Unless the whole 'HDD's are sensitive to temperatures' has recently been proven a myth, enjoy roasting your HDD's while you tuck them into corner with no ventilation.
I suppose one HDD by itself is fine, but my WD Black requires it's Noctua manslave to fan it while he lounges.
Okay, flipped it and made the little case wires better. No way of going around the 8 pin for the cpu. It's just too short.
>No way of going around the 8 pin for the cpu. It's just too short.
No it clearly isn't too short. You route it behind the tray, through the cpu cutout and between the motherboard tray and the motherboard. You may need to remove the top mobo screws while you do this.
And while you're at it, those other cables could use some zip ties because it's still a mess.
To put it elegantly, according to thermal dynamics, warm air rises, so your goal is to exhaust hot air up and out of the case.
I might add that many people who post in this thread under-appreciate airflow and positive air pressure. In my opinion, as a good rule of thumb, assuming all your fans are the same size, I would always have more fans as intakes than exhausts. So if you're using the top of the case as exhaust, I would leave only those as exhaust.
>engineers on a columbian sweatshop board
Nobody here gets shit, don't waste your energy trying to explain anything. They watched one video from linuskektips and now they believe they understand airflow.
right. I have three intake fans on the HP box @ >>OP
2x 70mm for the hard drives in front of the metal case vents up front, and a 92mm thermistor fan out of an older Dell for the exhaust, plus the 120mm fan on the PSU that doesn't need much air, and I think is PSU temperature controlled. I *think* the pressure is positive. everything certainly keeps really cool, and it surprised me initially seeing as the two 70s are on 5V and the 92 is on 12 up front.
>all over the place
>figure out your cooling situation
I don't understand.
I get the xeon bit, but I don't have any need for upgrading massively. Genuinely asking because I am entirely unsure. I have an exhaust at the top, so I'm not sure as to what the cooling situation is. If it's the CPU cooler, it's working better than the stock intel cooler that died. I will take a much broader picture next time to include the rest of the case and include the top exhaust. It's an old build.
the fuck? ain't even rotated in my folder
A HP server I'm not using currently because it's loud ass fugg
This one I assembled for a friend
I even put lights in a non-windowed case cause why not? It's got mesh tho
What about it?
Helps push warmer air to my exhaust due to the cooler design. I get hot stagnant air trapped above the fan and even warms up the rear corner of the case, hence the intake arrangement. I want only one exhaust.
Are those the only two reasons for "all over the place"?
My first system so don't hate too much. Plus it is obviously a budget pc, but its more than enough for what I want to do as of right now.
How can you give credit to noctua for that cpu cooler?
Corsair is doing 99% of the work.
Initially when AIO coolers came out, they were advertised them as being intakes, despite being installed in the back normally reserved as an exhaust, and you even see a lot of the 240mm radiators being installed in the front as intakes, the premise being that you're pulling in cold air.
But the flaw behind it is that you could be dumping gouts of what could be molten-hot air into your case, which does bode well for the peripheral components.
I dunno, I've played with a lot of AIO coolers--for some, the air coming out feels pretty cooler, while for others, it's like putting you hand in front of a heater. I guess it all depends on what you're trying to cool.
In my personal opinion, I'd throw aesthetics aside and use a tried a true heatsink and fan--on average, they're cheaper, quieter, and less prone to catastrophic failure. It's not to say AIO's don't have their place, but I've probably had a 50% success rate with AIO's working flawlessly or not.
Case and point, my latest SFF HTPC's AIO develops a pinging sound when it's been on for prolong periods of time, and there's no way to troubleshoot it since it only makes the noise after it's been on overnight.
i primarily want to cool the GPU once i put together a new computer, but i quickly realized that the proper way to do it is expensive and the waterblocks are card specific. i guess i could do it with a closed loop cooler and a bracket but that apparently has problems with vram cooling.
What card do you have?
I'me currently in the same position in regards to cooling my graphics card, but I keep coming to the fact that aftermarket solutions are either....
>Big and bulky, or
>Have steep requirements
Unless you plan to overclock, I wouldn't worry about the ram.
I would also recommend against overlocking. Besides the fact most cards do it for you, the few FPS increase in performance is not worth the potentially shorter lifespan of the card.
And yes, it does shorten the lifespan.
i will buy a new card when purchasing the rest of the parts. i'm still trying to figure out what i want, and so far haven't even entirely settled on the case although it will likely be a h440 or a fractal r5.
if i do decide to water cool the GPU i'll probably use this thing since i can't justify dropping $100 on just the water block.
Don't do it. The fan does a terrible job at keeping the VRM cool. It pushes air down onto the PCB rather than across the components, which lowers the cooling effect of the air as there are no heatsinks or pipes to dissipate the air. The Corsair HG10 does it better with their reference-style blower fan.
8/10 for getting an actually decent heatsink for a budget build. but there sure is a lot of orange.
it's sad because I know who you are and that your server room is probably under 18C so it really doesn't matter how the hell your cables are.
I've done basically all the cable management possible in that case, with the tied up power supply ones..
Air only flows through the bottom 2/3rds of the case anyway. There's a piece of cardboard blocking the third 120mm fan bracket so all the air gets forced through the radiator.
Do you only have SSDs behind those drive bezels? Autism as fuck but if I were you I'd totally consider putting those in a 2x2.5'' --> 3.5'' adapter and fitting them in that empty looking bay below it, then bezel swapping a BD burner with the original grey bezels. Replace the floppy drive with a grey Zip drive hooked up to a PCI IDE controller or USB to IDE adapter for the maximum sleeper effect.
that's a stock image. here's the front as it looks now, waiting for the new heatsink to come before I take a new internal guts pic.
I really need to find a gray or white-front SATA DVD burner to shove in there. I have plenty of IDE ones as you can see in the pic, but none that are SATA of that color.
>I really need to find a gray or white-front SATA DVD burner to shove in there.
AFAIK you actually don't, bezels are standardized and I believe you actually should be able to swap them as long as the switches line up.
I heard it on here though, so I don't know if it's completely true or not. If you still have that old drive though you should try it out.
Dunno what to do with that USB panel though, you could try painting it. A white one would actually probably go nice since it has that white plastic on either side of it.
the USB bay adapter just needs a good retr0bright job and it'll be good as new.
now that you mention it, I'm stupid. I have two LG DVD burners sitting right next to each other here in those two computers. they're exactly identical up front. Durr, I should be able to just swap the fronts then. I'll have to investigate this.
I've found no matter where I put my HDD, its temperature never goes about 35 Celsius. For a server with HDDs in RAID, that's a different story, but 1 or 2 HDDs in a regular computer, they'll never overheat no matter where I put them in a build.
So I just keep them out of the way so there's better airflow to the other components that really need it.
I've personally had bad luck in my earlier years with dying drives because of heat, most notably seagates and Maxtors. the "keep it cool, keep it forever" mentality is something I stand by because of this. Early last year I retired the hard drive that acted as my boot drive on many computers, lastly being >>52538433
I want to attribute its survival after all these years to consistently making sure it was under 30C in whatever machine it was running in. being autistic about keeping mechanical spinny disks cool is an art that will no longer be one in 10 years when SSDs of competing sizes get to be cheaper than the mechanical drives themselves.
I've had the opposite experience where no matter what I do to my HDDs, they'll keep running. I've even bought refurbished HDDs and they all run fine without any failures. Even Seagate Greens have had no problems for me after 5 years or so.
That's my experience though, and I realize I'm the exception, but I have never had a problem with HDDs, ever. So that's why I always throw them into the drive bays.
my greens in the aforementioned case are older ones without the head parking issue. I believe that to be the reason why mine have lasted almost 4 years now. most of the drives I get have good SMART readouts and have been in a scrapped computer. 500s are indispensable as replacements, 1TB is rare to find, and 2TBs are usually dead and just outside the warranty period.
the cases I had the most problems with were Dell GX110s and up. of the Dells made after that model, the GX400 is the only one I found that actually pulled the intake air past the hard drives to keep it cool.
Shuttle computers are also bad in this respect, there's like no airflow for the hard drive. it's stuck in a 3.5" bay under the CD drive.
Don't have the original drive front in your OP pic still? Looks like it will line up. White/beige drives never look very good on HP's grey/white scheme, unless you go all out and replace that lower bay as well.
t. vectra/netserver hoarding pro
>dem sharp edges near the psu
Nice case conversion but couldn't you at least have grinded/sanded those off?
I remember making my first prebuild with a Sweex case. Wow those things were like fucking razorblades inside. It did have a nice handle i could use to carry it to LAN parties though.
Oh boy, I sure do love shitbox guts.
Have some gore.
>for a friend
And the sex dolls under my bed are my friends too
i thought we lived in a time where the inside mattered most
have you ever stopped to realize how stupid it is to hang all your components OFF THE FUCKING WALL AHAHAHAHAHAH
Correction: PC, an XT was too easy mode for this guy to board swap.
At least his creativity rewarded him with great temps.
unfinished business with 3M sticky tape keeping shit in spot for right now.
New gpu didn't arrive yet kek
>inb4 fags discarding a good mobo because it has gaming in its name
the cpu, cooler, and ram came out of a dell inspiron. it's a 4440 so the cpu doesn't need any fancy cooling. if i put a 4790k in there obviously i'll get something better.
cpu is chilling at 34 degrees C with some arctic silver after stripping off the gunk dell put on there.
I've never heard of a overheated hdd and you're generating more air turbulance which in turn reduces the effectness of your case fans. I have heard about overheated cpus though. I hope you're not planning to oc that
no i don't think it would, i think the mhz bump might help in the future for other games but not for what i typically play.
loaded up wither 3, made it to like 43C.
i really don't give a fuck.
cleaned up some of my wires... would like some cable mgmt advice for small as fuck cases
I'm not saying it's a problem, I'm just telling you that the second fan doesn't increase your cooling efficiency while still drawing power.
Thanks for the tip but I don't have an issue so I don't get where that came from haha
>I don't give a fuck
Sure, that's okay but why post in a thread where it's about how you make your pcs guts look nice? It's like posting in a rate thread and saying "i dont care man" when people rate you low.
Its just that you were saying that this configuration would cause over heating which it hasn't with my overclock. So I was asking if you had your pc in a confined area when testing this fan configuration? Any other config would be 2 exhausts and one intake which actually ran hotter the last time I was usuing it. I have my reasons haha.
DIY. There are many tutorials. A roll of like a mile of cable is around 100 bucks. If you don't want to get cloth wrap, that's pretty much all you have to spend for the rest of your life on cables
you sound like a woman.
really, you do. fuck the makeup, fuck the eyeliner, fuck the tight pants and push up bra.
guts threads are about guts, and if i split you open right now you wouldn't look so good either. guts is just that, guts.
my shit will look better when i have time to finish it up, i need a cpu cable extension and to finish the back end because i'm about to be running like ten drives.
no shit? what am i supposed to run prime 95 to prove a shit stock intel cooler is actually good enough? i've had tall as fuck coolers before, they're great. i don't need one.
If you buy the materials to make them yourself, probably in the range of $80-$100. If you get all the cables sleeved custom (like Lutro customs) probably $150-$200. If you just buy a generic set that may be short or long, probably like $70-$80.
No the amount of fans makes sense. Anything less than 2 is silly. The position of the lower fan is what causes disturbance in airflow. I'm not saying it's causing massive issues, I'm just saying it's less effective than placing it somewhere else.
If you don't oc much you shouldn't have issues naturally
I mean I get what you are saying its just that I don't have anywhere to really put it so might as well cool something while bring in air. But its only like a small percentage of efficiency loss, now if it were a server I would care more.
My personal rig isnt insane so my efficiency isnt a real issue. Now when I do my itx build that's going to be a bitch. Its like servers and high performance shit is where it will matter since it adds up in the long run like you said. Thanks though will address it next build hopefully since it will be a xenon build.
Yeah I too hate people who like to optimize things they put together so it uses less energy for the same cooling power. Only extreme faggots like doing things as good as possible.
>are you blowing out hot air through the bottom of the case?
>Good job fighting against the rising hot air.
i dont think he is, but anyways its a fucking pc case not a hot air balloon you stupid fuck, with all the fans blowing convection is practically irrelevant unless you go completeley fanless
It's just a piece of loose metal they shoved between the sink and the case metal, maybe to conduct heat to it?
I wonder how much he paid for this expensive 7200 RPM drive just to wire it to an ancient 8-bit controller and hold it down to the case with chicken wire.
>green yellow and black
Yes anon the colors are great
"Sir do you know where you are"?
Everything in my case was cheap as fuck
Still tho.... R8/h8
My first build but still has fine ass cable management.
Build complete once and for all. Will be posting in every /guts/ thread till the end of days
>not giving your friend all your spare parts so he knows true hell
He deserves it for only playing Dota 2.
I'm this guy >>52542262
How the fuck do you fuck up that badly in a Challenger case? It even includes a SSD adapter and you still fucked up by using tape instead.
You need to step up your shit.
I love square cases how they show your video card up on the side like that. Spend like $800 on a card or cards then you only get to see the backplate or PCB in a normal case lol.
>he fell for the Noctua meme
I'm not saying they're a bad fan, but if you're gonna spend that much on a fan, get Scythe Gentle Typhoons or Noiseblocker NB-eLoops. They're better and look 100 times better than all that poop brown.
But Scythe doesn't sell Gentle Typhoons anymore. There's a few other companies with smaller distribution agreements with Nidec Servo Corporation though. I think the most notable is DarkSide. They even sell the GTs with black blades now.
Please give me some actual benchmarks or testing to prove that the scythe gentle typhoons are better then the A14 PWM fans. I'll be waiting.
Also the looks are subjective. I actually like the poop colors as it goes very well with black + it goes well with my NH-D15, which is objectively the best CPU air cooler around. Generic white/black fans are pretty boring IMO.
That would be difficult, considering that most easily digestible comparisons go apples for apples and compare 120mm fans against other 120mm fans, and 140mm fans against other 140mm fans. You'd have to educate yourself to make sense of any of the information I could give you.
I did that once with a dell. Its a bad idea and nobody should do this... but it's awesome as hell and everyone should do it.
Yeah, or I could just give you actual benchmarks to prove that your a fucking retard and have 0 idea what your talking about.
You also used 1366 and Fermi. That build would have heat problems no matter what case it was in.
Someone who can't tell the difference between your and you're, or be bothered to type out zero, has no business calling anyone a retard. Calm your autismal rage and educate yourself.
Thread almost over so time to post
My testing computer, just put together
That case is completely horrible to work with even though it sort of looks nice. Don't buy this
What temperatures are you getting on the 4-in-3 bays? Currently running 3-in-2 and feeling /comfy 36C with the fan in the middle mode that won't get loud unless something goes terribly wrong. Ambient temp 72F/22C. Can't tell the difference between middle and permanently-quiet mode by ear.
I fail it. Now I can see it as a shim of metal resting on top of the heatsink.
But the first time I looked, I really thought the metal was the case behind a waterjet-carved or otherwise milled path through the CPU/heatsink and motherboard. Fail it, I.
You can wire all the cables through the back plate of the case. Do yourself and your coolers the favor of using them. Not only will it look better but your case fans will perform much better even on lower rpm because there won't be this wall of cables interrupting airflow.
You're some sort of special retard. At delta 18dBA for the eLoops, you get 61.4CFM and 1.27mmH20. At the same level for the A14 you get 56.4CFM and 0.953mmH20 static pressure.
It's pretty comparable to the eLoops at that point too. I've also noticed that the Noctua's have a higher minimum CFM and static pressure, so if you're going to be running the fans on lower speed the Noctua's will outperform the eLoops. Overall, both fans are pretty great, though I think overall the Noctua's edge out above the eLoops. Hold up though, the Noctua is a 140mm fan so it better be held to higher standards.
What >>52575951 said
Maybe look closer retard. At that point is the only time the eloop beats it, but that is probably because of some sort of whine noise of the PWM, not sure.
Either way no 120mm fan will beat a noctua a14 .
And you shouldn't even be looking at DBA to cfm. It's fucking stupid as all the good fans are quiet as fuck anyways. You should be more worried about pressure to CFM.