Caps Lock is now Control edition
>Where to Buy:
>Old Thread >>52416361
This is the only one I have ever wanted. It would look great on ym Deep Space Keyset.
I don't care if your camera is shit or you think that your keyboard looks boring, I want you post a fucking picture of it.
I have an hhkb but I'm posting my old cherry mx board to spice it up
i mean it would match which means you're already ahead of most of the tards on reddit, but that would still make your keyboard look like shit
stock ISO pok3r, whats the point
I don't get the PBT love.
I mean sure, they are tough and never really wear away, but neither does good ABS like that from SP.
Doubleshot PBT is also full of missprints, poor alignment, and casting errors, and this is befoer taking into account the limited colors and profiles. I don't really think it is worth the trouble.
>Caps Lock is now Control edition
That is so weird. I just switched it and tried it for a little while. I don't like it.
I like my CTRL near the bottom near XCV which I use it with so ofton.
you need to try better pbt.
The rougher the better.
>not using blanks
I remapped my caps lock to the super key on my old keyboard. I would fuck up keyboard shortcuts at work and at home because I would get used to one then switch to the other. It was terrible =(
I hate when keyboards use non standard layouts, especially for modifier keys.
>I like my CTRL near the bottom near XCV which I use it with so ofton.
I remapped my laptop while waiting to get my hhkb for 10 days.
I kept going to the bottom left ctrl out of muscle memory (i didn't disable it) and thought I'd never get used to the caps/control.
Then I got the hhkb and after a week since the bottom left key ISN'T there at all I quickly got used to the caps/control and now I am even starting to finding it better.
My fingers stretch less, and I think the sculpted profile of topre caps helps.
It just wasn't the same relief on regular keyboards.
Pic related, topre vs OEM profile.
Also, backspace over enter is absolutely genius. Love it.
>I mean sure, they are tough and never really wear away, but neither does good ABS like that from SP.
Utter bullshit. Even GMK/Cherry ABS will shine in half the time it takes PBT to start.
There's also the good feeling of oneness with harder plastic.
>and never really wear away, but neither does good ABS like that from SP
They do. Also
I ordered one of these with cherry MX greens. It arrives on Tuesday.
Did I do good /mkg/?
Really? They are thin, their profile suck, their texture is awful and jesus christ, the stem marks on yours are just disgusting.
Hhkb takes less space and has no steel plate, meaning a better sound and no ping.
Realforce has more keys, a stupid huge bezel, 55g option and a pseudo numpad on the fn layer.
Don't get the variable force realforce, go full 45 or 55g
Built one custom keyboard and working on my second, I can tell you from experience that you're absolutely mistaken.
If you're referring to companies that make boards (like Corsair), you're still mistaken. Manufacturing a PCB can be cheap in bulk, sure, but manufacturing switches, caps, cases, plates, they all require machinery. Most boards are all put together from parts made in different factories, and they have a significant cost to them, especially the higher-end boards.
There are boards that sell for 50 bucks right off the bat, but even those aren't $20 to produce. They end up buying crates of cheap knockoff switches, manufacturing very poor quality PCBs, buying very low quality abs keycaps in bulk, and generally don't manufacture plates because of the cost. Even these keyboards only make a very minimal markup.
If we're being technical, I could buy 20 switches and place them in cardboard, handwire them all to an ATmega16, use no keycaps and type on the stems of the switches instead. With this board I could reduce costs to below $20.00.
Even if manufacturers make everything in-house, you're still looking at the initial costs of the machinery, how much it costs to run the machinery, the cost of materials, and the costs of labor. If you took only the cost of the material, I could see how you'd think it would cost less than $20.00 to make, but the actual cost is far greater.
Now, do some assholes overcharge for crap? Absolutely. Look at some of the 'limited' keysets that get GBs for hundreds of dollars. Some of the Custom boards that get made are way overpriced as well. Once you've made a board and have already prototyped, you can build a quality one for less than $200. When I see a $500 custom, I'm jealous, but not of the person owning the board, but of the person who sold the board.
>Unless boards are GON style, with just two plates "sandwitch". Then yes, they are overpriced as fuck.
The Compact SQ was GON style, and instead of $500, it was $145.
Pretty big difference for what is effectively the same thing.
How many keyboards is too many keyboards?
I think I may have a problem
Don't we all want some HHKB in our lives sometimes?
Post pictures of your realforce once it arrives, was my second choice after the HHKB.
Are the WASD Keyboards good? I'm thinking of getting a barebones one with some key caps.
>I want a hhkb :(
Can't tell if satire or serious
- sent from my hhkb
Think I will drop it instead for the upcoming Godspeed keyset instead.
I use capslock as my super. I got an old keyboard with space invader keyswitches from my University's surplus store, and it has no super keys. I bound caps to my whisker menu, and I also use dmenu.
Classic space looks so much better. Why would you buy this crap instead?
>mfw I saw this set
Shiny ABS will even add to the aesthetic.
Don't fight it anon. You know you want to touch it.
I'm about to get my second mechanical keyboard (My first is a board with blues I'm about to sell soon) and I can't decide between black or clear switches. I've only been able to try clears in person because all tech stores around me suck, and I like the clears a lot more than blues. But I've never tried a linear switch and was wondering if it's worth it, or if I should just get clears. Thoughts?
Not technically /mkg/, but I picked this up yesterday and I thought you guys might like it
I got a Rosewill RK-9000V2 with browns earlier this week. It's my first mech. It's much better to type on than pretty much every other keyboard I've owned.
The keys in the middle (g, t, b, f, spacebar sometimes) make a soft, metallic ping sound when they return to the resting position. It's not THAT loud, but it does overwhelm the clack. Is this normal for this keyboard or for less expensive mechs, or should I send it back for another? I think it has something to do with the metal backplate vibrating because the sound is only really noticeable when the keyboard has the legs extended. When it's flat on the desk, the ping is very faint.
I'm building my first gaming PC soon and I need a new keyboard for it.
Whats the verdict on this one? (Razer BlackWidow Ultimate 2016).
Theres a deal happening where everything on the razer store is 50% off so this will only be £50 ($72).
I know razer is considered shit but surely this would be a good keyboard for half the price of the keyboards I keep getting recommended?
love my new overpriced meme
It's a fine keyboard. I bought mine last year when my wife spilled wine on my old cheapy keyboard. I think I bought mine refurbed and on sale for like $40-50 so I couldn't complain. backlit keys are cool too. The brightness is adjustable too.
I have one of those for controlling my computer from my couch.
I wish the Model M13 had a more modern trackpoint for higher DPI screens, because I would use that as my main keyboard then.
Why is the only Bluetooth adapter available a shit huge brick?
Why can't we have a small thing like those usb wifi adapters?
Thanks, good to know. I actually haven't heard of Costar, but I looked them up and didn't see my keyboard.
This shit feels so good to type on. I'm looking for any excuse to type that I can get. Browns really seem like the most ideal switch type; the tactile bump is really nice. I almost wish I got MX blues instead, but I'm afraid the click would be too loud.
So yesterday I spilled some water on my desk, it seemed I missed my keyboard, because there were bigger problems I might have missed it.
Water leaked into power extender and my appartment lost electricity.
Some minor shit, but I had fears some parts in my pc might have burnt. Dried it up well, let the power extender stay the night. Turned on the PC, everything seemed fine.
Until I noticed 2 keys on my keyboard are constantly sending signals, not one continues, but several per second.
So I wonder what could've happend, could it have bern a surge thought the computer or some droplet into the keys.
Another thing how do I remove the keys to check inside? They are brown cherry.
Hi /mkg/, I'm still new to mechanical keyboards but a month ago I decided to get myself a ducky Shine 5 because the keyboard at the time was a night mare. Razer shouldn't be allowed to live.
I finally got the package after an extra week of waiting (thank's Canada post) and I plugged it expecting it to turn on immediately but it didn't. I thought nothing of it because I hadn't read the manual yet since I had to work my shift but now I think it might be broken.
Can someone calm my thoughts? Is there an "On" command I just hadn't gotten to yet?
How about this one?
does nobody use a ducky shine?
Don't buy that what is wrong with you; that's horrible. If you're buying it for gaming, you'll be better off with a low profile scissor switch
Try holding fn+f5 to reset it
What makes you say any part of either of those is proprietary? The M&P and AR are about as far as you could get from proprietary. They both accept virtually any type of accessory or ammunition from any manufacturer. Besides M&P magazines, I really can't think of a single other thing that wouldn't fit on either that AR or that M&P, especially considering the rails littering both of them.
Got one senpai.
I'm pretty happy with my purchase.
A keycool 108 with Vortex PBT caps.
Now all I need is a blue and white braided cable.
Been waiting 4 months on a keyboard from Massdrop, they haven't even updated the status to give me a tracking number or updated the thread in ages.
They responded to my support ticket ~2 weeks ago after finally being fed up with waiting, it's been 3 months since they were supposed to ship my item, and they assured me that it would arrive soon, and that X manufacturer was being difficult (not naming the company because I doubt they fucked this up). I messaged them again last night and they said it was already delivered, but I still don't have my keyboard.
They never even gave me a tracking number, and they won't refund my money. They can clearly see that my tracking number wasn't given, and I specifically told them that it's not being shipped to where I live, but to my grandparents where I could pick it up because I didn't want it delivered to my dorm. My grandparents don't leave their house very often and live on a college campus, so I was *really* relying on having a tracking number so I could go to their house for the day when it was supposed to arrive. I'm 40% sure it was stolen, but 60% believes they just didn't ship it. There's a slight chance the post office left it in the truck on accident, but I seriously doubt it.
Anyway, they won't refund the keyboard, they aren't able to acquire a replacement to send me, and now they're saying that all deliveries have been fulfilled.
That's it. I'm so sick of Massdrop and their bullshit at this point. They've fucked up every single order I've ever made with them, I've never had an order that didn't have a mistake. I put up with the first few, I figured they're just a small company, and that it's easy to make mistakes. I never bothered having them fix the mistakes, because I didn't want to wait longer for replacements. I've only had 3 orders arrive within a reasonable time, yet 2 of those orders still shipped later than they said it would.
They completely fucked me, and are going to die as a company. Fuck Massdrop
I'm no camerafag, but man I'm loving it so far!
Well guys, my iKBC G87 finally came in from an Aliexpress order. Ordered it on December 3, 2015, and could have gotten it yesterday but I wasn't home when the delivery attempt was made so I just ended up stopping by the post office to pick it up as I was on my way home from class.
All in all it feels as sturdy as my Ducky Zero TKL. Feels much better than my Filco Majestouch 2 and Keycool 84. The keycaps on this keyboard feel amazing too. There is a slight wobble to it though :(
Came with a brush for dust (I think?), wire keycap puller, and 2 green Shift keycaps, 2 blue Alt keycaps, and 2 red Control keycaps
Yup, the case wobbles just SLIGHTLY. If you're typing on the keys it doesn't wobble, but if you're using the arrow keys and you're pounding on the keyboard (I pound on the arrow keys a lot)
then you'll notice the wobbling.
I don't think I'll add LEDs.
I'd go for the C87 too. It looks like the same keyboard + volume shortcuts. The only thing you'd lose are the PBT Doubleshot keycaps, which really isn't anything to be missed.
I'm an idiot haha!
I spilled some ORANGE JOOS!!!!::: ) on my mechanical keyboard, immediately turned it upside down and took out the keys, it spilled around the keys 567tyugh. I put the keys in a soap bath and then let them off to dry. I wiped the keyboard off with a wet towel and then used a few cotton swabs with plain water to clean the insides. This morning, there were 3 keys a little bit gummed up. How can I fix this?
I dont know, what layout do you like better?
so how much did this cutie run you? I am interested in getting a TKL for myself as well but I am on the edge of that but if I can come across something on sale or a super good price then I will bite
Checking the guide and this general out since I'm interested in jumping on the memechanical keyboard bandwagon....no offense, but holy shit this is the most autistic thing I've ever seen, and I've been on this site for 7 years.
Arguing over the thinness of keycaps and collecting multiple memeboards... this is advanced autism, I thought it was just people interested in getting a new keyboard or want to ask about different switches, not this nitpicking. As long as it works I guess...
>finally get new keyboard
>need to use Fn key to turn on LEDs
>"sounds good to me, old keyboard had a 'right click' function in place of Fn. It was useless as shit"
>uninstall shitty software from old keyboard
>plug new keyboard in
use Fn key and it is now right click function
>go to laptop, try there
> same deal except now, pic related
>Fn key still don't work :^))))
>Unicorn Puke Keyboards
Praise-worthy monument to the unifying beauty underlying each and every disparate element?
Or hipster trash?
>been debating what color hhkb I want for weeks
I can't decide between white and black. I like the classic off white look. But the black will match my stuff better. Plus my novatouch is black so mixing things up might be nice.
I appreciate your situation.
Flip a coin?
deffinitely going to have to pull out keys id recommend rubbing alcohol or even electric cleaner if you can afford it.
Thanks man its pretty awesome so far.
This device has bluetooth and a battery, it's not a housebrick shape
I know, but to be fair, I was in a rush.
I'll post pic but it's from my phone so it's shit.
My ducky shine 4 just broke down, so got this as a replacement from my retailer.
I have a Realforce 87UB
Ask yourself this: do you want to be able to read your keys in dim lighting?
Otherwise, flip a coin. Go with the side you wanted it to land on. If you didn't want either side, then listen to the coin.
I looked at the list in the OP. The budget boards offered weren't available for a good price. I'm in shitnadia, and our dollar is worth nothing now. What is a decent budget mechanical keyboard? I saw the FOME QWERTY G9, but the only reviews I could find were on amazon, where they might be shills and sockpuppets.
Because I'm a poorfag but I love the feel of feedback from mechanical keyboards. I don't want some fancy gaming bullshit. I'd just like a simple mechanical keyboard for less than a hundred of our canadian monopoly monies.
how much of a drop in quality am I looking at for so called "chinkshit"?
Does cosmetic plain-ness not knock down the price of good keyboards to at least the 100$ area? I'm not averse to paying 120$ for a good keyboard, but my poor wallet can't handle much more.
Does anybody know what profile the default keycaps for a Razer Blackwidow Chroma? My brother has one of those (yeah, he's a 1337 gamer reddit-tier person), and I was thinking of getting him some "cool" WASD keycaps - but I don't want to buy him a full keycap set since he wouldn't appreciate it - so they should be in the same profile as default.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/CHERRY-16in-USB-Black-keyboard-39-prog-G81-1858LUMUS-2-/231707256548?hash=item35f2d426e4:m:mO3iaAJqNI8YVWlpxTbQ3Cg Dis a good deal? I'm not sure if Cherry = Cherry MX.
G81 = Cherry MY (which sucks)
G80 = Cherry MX
Read this, so you know what you are buying
It really depends.
Clear Switches, Winkeyless and Doubleshot/Dyesub? Go for it.
Black Switches, winkey, laser-etched? I wouldn't get it.
The newer G80s really aren't that great and I'd much rather take an ancient G80 than a new one.
>Winkeyless and Doubleshot/Dyesub
I've surmised from google that these are just the keys themselves? I can replace those later. The switches, is that the plastic housing in which the spring lies? What difference does it make whether they are clear or black? Is it a difference in plastic types, one more durable than the other?
I understand that you may be trying to help, but I can't get a perfect keyboard on my budget. I'm looking for the best I can manage for under 150$ CDN. Would the G80 be better than one of these bullshit gaymin keyboards with backlights that hover around 100$?
From the shallow digging I've done, it doesn't look like there are many used Cherry keyboards with MX switches on eBay or kijiji (checked both local and Toronto).
Okay, I see now.
This comes with MX Red. Unfortunately I can't find any other Cherry keyboards at Canadian retailers. I have no clue where I'd find them used in our frozen shithole of a country.
Friendly reminder that black text on black caps is stupid and ugly.
Only go for black hhkb if blank, and never go for black realforce.
Never get a variable weighted realforce, go for full 45 or full 55g.
I have a Razer blackwidow tournament and it's a piece of shit to be honest. In the beginning they felt ok but horrible keycaps. After two weeks some keys were mushy and some where easier or harder to push and feel stiff in a bad way.
Ok, since you don't know anything abut the MX-Switches, giving you some tips is nearly impossible. For starters:
MX-Blue: Typewriterish (MX-Green = Heavier blues)
MX-Red: Linear, no bump when pressing the keys (MX-Black = Heavier Reds)
MX-Brown: Tactile (kinda like rubberdome, but better) (MX Clear = Heavier, more tactile Browns)
Actually I think you can get a very decent keyboard for 150CDN.
Keycaps actually are pretty important, since they kinda influence the feel of the switches, just like e.g. a aluminium case does.
You may look at the CM Storm stuff, they are rather cheap at a good price.
Just tried my flipping OEM on blues.
I don't like it. It looks shit, it feels weird - I usually click near the bottom almost on the corner, and with it flipped it feels weird.
This has to be the least inventive general on /g/. Just glamour shots of stock keyboards with overpriced keycaps, neat.
Why dont any of you mod your keyboards? Deciding on what color to paint this old shitty quickfire xl
Well, I am currently planning some new projects, but for now I got little to share since I'm still waiting for most of my stuff or searching for nice donor boards.
Basically after obtaining some lube I'm planing on building a nice 60/65% board with MX Clears (62/67g) as well as one with Salmon/Blue ALPS. But that's still in the distant future.
The picture is a KBP V60 Matias QC with a Tex case, Tai Hao keycaps and lubed stabilizers. If there are any people here who use this keyboard, go get those stabilizers lubed. It's like 2$ and it makes it sound so much better, holy shit. Also, the standard case makes the switches way louder than they should be, hence the tex case. I'm very happy with it.
As for your project, did you consider to use foil instead of paint?
Oh damn, just noticed I screwed up one of the stems of the spacebars stabs. Fixed it immediately
What software are you using? Uninstall everything, you don't need it. the Fn key is built into the firmware of the board itself, so whatever software is making you right-click is something you must have installed on a previous board. When you plug your new board in, it'll install any driver/s you need.
Blown away that they're considered hipster at this point. Just buy a crap-bag and you'll have enough keys to fill 10 keyboards (probably more like 5 or 6, of all the same key profile).
last crap bag was something like 25 bucks for 1000 keys, wasn't it?
I never did it myself, but it seems rather easy. Plus you don't loose anything if you screw up, since you can just pull the foil off.
want to buy this one, any complains?
Like I said here >>52450705
KBP V60 QC Matias
Tex 60% aluminium case (black, obviously)
Tai Hao Dolch (Alps-Mount) keycaps
The build would look the same with a regular 60% kbd, the case and regular Tai Hao Dolchs.
The thing is, Matias switches have ALPS stems, so Cherry keycaps won't fit, so you are screwed if you want the huge variety of keysets there are for Cherry.
However I think that Matias is far superior to everything Cherry, they feel absolutely amazing. If you think you wouldn't want to change the keycaps too often, you really should try them.
it's out of stock, dumb dumb.
Hello, I am trying to find the right keyboard for me. It will be my first mechanical one, so i am trying to make everything right. Pic is my current keyboard i bought 2 years ago, i am playing a lot of fast games, i dont want that to happen on my mechanical one
Get a water resistant keyboard, so you dirty fuck can just clean it by pouring warm water over it.
If you don't even care about the switch you will be useing you really shouldn't be willing to drop 200$ on a keyboard.
there are, but no mechanicals.
Other than that, Ducky Shine is a good idea. If you are from burgerland you could also wait for some Varmilo to show up on Massdrop. Cheaper and great build quality.
This >>52451359 was meant as an answer to >>52451338
i would say blacks are equally as bad.
look into clears, or blues/greens. i dont think any of the other switches are even worth considering.
Ordered pic related from WASD.
Anyone here order from WASD before?
Been using steelseries 7g for 4 years now, very happy with the keyboard, but the wear and tear is getting to it.
In short, I'm looking for a keyboard with a removable wrist rest in style of 7g, with black switches (browns are fine too), usb hub would be a nice bonus too.
it doesn't really matter.
what matters is the material and the roughness (to fight shine)
some say thicker caps make difference with bottoming out but I don't care since I use a topre board and I don't have a steel plate :^)
in fact the abs spacebar I just replaced was actually thicker than the pbt one I put in its place.
and yet the latter feels more solid when being pushed down, and pleasant to the touch.
Haven't tried it yet
I don't think I'll ever use it tobehonest unless I will change ALL caps in the future (see this pic of hypesphere for example)
otherwise I'll probably sell the black one (or keep it to create artifical scarcity lol)
Me taking a selfie.
>tfw didn't take any pictures yet today
Good morning /mkg/!
Hey friendos. I'm looking to splurge on a Mecha Keyboard. I've only had 1 before in my life: 2012 Razer Black Widow w/ Blue Switch switches. It was so nice, but REALLY loud and clacky and clicky. I had no problems with they keyboard except when it fucking broke on me (I knew I should've listed to /g/ about Razer).
I heard Brown switches were a nice middle between feel & sound?
I'd be using this Keyboard primarily for typing: you know, general PC use. I play vidya, but I'd use my controller over Keyboard (unless I'm playing LoL/HotS/TF2/Overwatch/Path of Exile, etc).
Price doesn't matter.
Must be full-size.
Must have an easy way to change the volume. (On the Razer, I had to hold down "Fn" key + an "F" row button, was so stupid and non-ergonomic).
Must have blue LED backlighting.
Must not be the Logitech 710+ (thing looks hideous).
Shoot me some ideas/recommendations.I went to the Overclock.net recommendations for the Brown switches and none of them looked appealing to me.
If you liked the tactile bump of blues, you wont like browns.
I do like the switch, but they are way less tactile than blues. If you have no problem with being a little heavier than your blues, you should get a board with clears.
So I have a cmstorm with browns, these things are way too light. Blues feel light and sound terrible to me. Haven't tried clears or blacks to see if they're any better. So Is it worth the plunge for an HHKB if I've never tried topre before?
topre are lighter if not the same as brown.
different feeling and shit, but 45g topre can't be called stiff for sure.
Never tried 55g topre, and those only come on realforces anyway.
get a coolermaster tester with novatouch key, or get a novatouch if you can return it
Get the coolermaster switch tester (or a novatouch which you then either keep or return after having used it to try out topre).
I like Topre, but mx clears are also really nice. If you're going to invest a large amount of money, I don't think it will hurt to invest another 10 or twenty bucks to find out what suits you the best so you won't regret your purchase later.
This is bretty gud https://corus-kb.com/en/keycaps/69-vortex-pbt-keycaps-full-set-105-iso-nordic-top-side-printed-.html?search_query=nordic+pbt&results=5#/62-printing_type-side_printed
I have it on my Majestouch 2 TKL
There's nothing bad about your choice.
Clears are really nice, second favorite to Topre.
When people say tactile, they mean the resistance to the press, right? I thought I was retarded, but then I looked it up in the dictionary and I felt a little vindicated (http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/tactile). Clearly you guys mean something much more specific than the dictionary definition.
Tactile switches have a little "bump" that resists your press slightly and then goes away after you pass it. It's a bit like popping bubble wrap with your finger, only more gentle.
Also, loud and tactile switches are generally called "clicky" and the more silent tactile switches are just called "tactile". A switch that is neither clicky nor tactile is called "linear".