Granite drop is live edition
Topre sound comparison
>>Where to Buy:
>Old Thread: >>52361884
Topre > clears = greens > blues > buckling springs > all
And I think the majority of /g/ agrees.
Even Japan says it isn't mechanical.
this is a membrane.
topre uses rubber domes.
Reminder that instead of Granite you could get some of the thickest PBT in the world. They are $26 for blanks on massdrop right now and there's a group buy over at geekhack that has the same sets but with the addition of some nice dyesub legends.
>what switches are the biggest meme?
I still haven't been able to find a picture of light grey mains and dark grey modifiers.
Hopefully I can find one to decide if I want the light greys or milks before the groupbuy ends
>not liking clears
What are some good switches for programming? Auditory clicky switches need not apply.
I have a 6gv2 (blacks) and it's AIDS for programming because of the layout.
I'm considering browns. Maybe a QUICKFIRE XT.
I'm not paying that much for a keyboard. Also most people actually get lower WPM using mechanicals, considering buying a scissor switch keyboard desu senpai.
Any "clicky" switch (greens, blues). "MUH EXTRA SOUND", like mechanical keyboards weren't making enough noise already.
brown is the color of shit and is no coincidence.
cm quickfire is entry level stuff.
you are a programmer, wheter you eat or not literally depends on your typing.
Do you want nice stuff or not?
Or maybe programmer means writing fizzbuzz in python on /g/ now?
>cm quickfire is entry level stuff.
That's not an argument into itself my man. You have still yet to say why it's bad.
>brown is the color of shit and is no coincidence.
"Muh shit color" Another meme, are you 15?
Yeah, I have a bag with keycaps I'll probably never use, including the ISO enter with text on it.
I recently gave up a bit and got an ANSI board too, but it's so hard to get used to it.
Those plastic sheets in the front are membrane sheets (two of them).
One membrane sheet has rows, the other has columns, both have conductive contacts at the same places. This is how the key matrix of a membrane keyboard works. As you can probably guess, these only activate upon bottoming out, since the two contacts (one on each sheet) need to be pressed together for a key to be activated.
That sheet of plastic with bumps is a sheet of rubber domes (they also come in all kinds of sizes, some keyboards just have single rubber domes instead of sheets under the keys).
When you press down on the rubber dome on a membrane keyboard, you have to bottom out in order to activate the switch, since otherwise the membranes won't make contact.
The HHKB you see to the right also has rubber domes. But the HHKB uses an electrocapacative sensor which is on the PCB in order to detect when a key has been activated. This means that you don't have to bottom out for the key to activate. The rubber dome is just there to provide tactility and something to actually press down on.
The idiots who don't know the difference between a membrane and a rubber dome should go educate themselves about how keyboards work before arguing about them.
Just a bunch of random rubber domes.
I asked my father to bring me whatever old keyboards he had at the university storage, and he came back with an old apple extended II and a whole bunch of rubber domes. I disassembled the rubber domes just for the fuck of it.
Going to build a new keyboard with the alps switches from the apple extended.
>argumentum ad populum
>thinking one switch can be objectively better than another
Can you go back to your cancer containment board such as /v/?
>thinking one switch can be objectively better than another
but anon, it clearly says so on the box!
good feeling of oneness with cup rubber
I'd get in on the drop if I could justify spending any money on aftermarket keycaps. But I already went Topre, and my cherry mx board also has PBT caps already.
And I just ordered some Topre spacebars from matt3o and I'm also getting a metal backplate for a keyboard I'm building from a swedish guy.
Are we getting Penumbra any time soon or it's still 2017?
>how much have you spent on the granite drop so far, /g/?
feels good to have reached endgame, man.
Sadly I only have one ISO keyboards (Though I'm getting an ANSI KC60). And it's a pain. Right now I'm using an ANSI keyset on my ISO board. It... it doesn't look great haha
They wanted to do ISO but the manufacturer (Gateron) just recently got access to ISO enter molds and the vendor who invested in them doesn't want to share. Isn't that nice?
The keycaps are high quality PBT by BSP with dyesub legends, except for the enter and escape keys that are thick doubleshots by GMK.
You won't find the BSP keys anywhere, but the current big geekhack group buy has something that very closely mimics them for $75. You could then pick up the GMK keys from something like elitekeyboards.
Waiting on this pupperino today, very excited.
Using the Numbpad Enter is actually not that bad.
The only bad part is that with most ANSI (all?) sets you only get 7 1.25 modifiers so I have to use a 1 on right control
Why do you order 2 space bars? Isn't 6.25 included in the common kit?
Pretty close. Save myself 25 buckarinos because I only ride TKL/60%
call me maximo autismo but I actually like these
Please stop guys.
>massdrop is gonna shit its pants and fuck up
>300$ worth of orders will be wrong
>people will be mad
>rise of the neckbeards
>massdrops bankrupts and flees
>massdrop had 7k+ drops with everything going k
>tfw I resisted
And I was there on the first day so I had first batch
I hate how he divvies up important keys into separate packs. He knows that the majority of his audience only needs a 60% board, no less, no more. Some might need a split shift, and most will want a 1.5-control or fn, but that's it. I'm going to end up spending $249 buying a bunch of crap I don't actually need, because otherwise I've ordered pieces from incomplete sets.
>He knows that the majority of his audience only needs a 60% board, no less, no more.
go for it
but I am looking forward to the shipping complaints
hehe pretty much
>going for the mono legends look
>will literally only use 3 keys from International
s-should I cancel Int. and use other keys like # @ or blanks for ÅÄÖ?
Get the milks, trust me on this. The light grey/dark grey combo isn't total shit, but the milk/light grey combo is damn beautiful. I'd pay $60 right now if somebody had a set.
I'm not kidding either, if anybody has a light grey/milk set, let me know and we'll work out a deal. If they're dye-sub, obviously I'll pay much more.
are you stupid?
headphones are just manufactured together and they ship them.
there is a ton that can go wrong with 1500 people ordering various mixes of set of tiny little pieces of plastic.
Du kommer störa dig på det i all framtid om du inte skaffar dom.
I won't cancel then I guess
My bro, are you waiting on the kc60 too? They mentioned that it'd be arriving in their warehouse today. I'm hoping I've got it in my hands by the end of the week, I sent my last KC60 on a roadtrip and won't have it back for a few months ;-;
literally cancelling the whole thing right now
No but this is the Swedish "console key" if you mean the one next to 1.
For Mono I might go with the ~ which is the ANSI default right?
Yes. I don't know exactly how they mean but I got my DHL tacking code a few days ago, today it changed to "Processed". So I think it's starting to move. But for me it's coming half way round the world so I probably have some waiting to do
My plan was to use the ANY KEY
The only keys that argument is relevant to is the arrow keys, which emulating honestly is superior. No reason to ever move your hands from homerow on 60%. And the rest are used so rarely emulating is better, as it allows for smaller keyboard and therefor better hand position when using a mouse.
It's good practice to order an extra when you buy an expensive kit. Spacebars (especially PBT) snap easily, and they're a pain to replace, as most people don't want to separate their set. You could probably make a small fortune by ordering a shitload of these spacebars and selling them marked up when people break theirs.
Mat3o seriously should have done a better job grouping the keys in this kit. Most people want keys that replace caps and split shifts. He required buying 3-4 kits total to end up with this. See >>52383084
>where can i buy those keycaps
you need to rape a japanese hipro topre keyboard.
Friendly reminder to flip your spacebar.
It takes 10 seconds at most.
No need to thank me, you are welcome.
Are those HiPros? Pretty sweet set. I'm not the biggest Topre fan, but I keep my old 104UG around for when I'm writing an essay and want that finger-sex. I'd kill to get a set of HiPros for MX
>they look good but damn im not buying a topre
oh you rike cherry mx like pig?
then get nipponese keycaps for mx pigs
I thought I was alone. It was merely accidental. I can't remember the actual side of the spacebar so I just put it in. This is better and doesn't hurt my fingers any more playing o2jam.
flipping my spacebar
they see me flipping
>go for it
Not the same keyboard. The board posted in the pic is the WhiteFox made by Mat3o. Fucking obnoxiously, you need to order like 4 kits of this granite set that HE MADE just to cover the damn keyboard. Mother fuck that guy annoys the shit out of me.
>MFW PEOPLE ARE SPENDING OUT OF THEIR POCKETS TO BUY A RERUN OF THE SET KNOWN TO BE THE MOST MISALIGNED IN THE HISTORY OF PBT PLASTIC
AYY LMAO SOME PEOPLE NEVER LEARN
LOOK AT THIS SHIT
LOOK AT IT AND I DARE YOU NOT TO CANCEL YOUR ORDER
t-they've learned from t-their mistakes by n-now r-right?
Carbon SA. There was a set with Orange base (+$30 on Massdrop), to be used with the black mods. Actual base looks pretty good in actual photos. I don't know if people on GeekHack have posted photos of the set with orange base, most of them are the original white-ish one.
The funny thing is, that's not the right ISO for the kit. They had to use an ISO enter from a different key-profile mould, so anybody who's never used the ISO variant of this board are going to flip their shit again when they get a DCS enter instead of DSA
There is a dyesub GB running on geekhack
>buying SP PBT
Enjoy your warp.
I'm still waiting with "Order placed with the vendor". It sounds like I'll be getting mine last -.-
I waited 2 months longer than I was supposed to on the first KC60, on the GH60 I waited nearly half a year, I'm not going to hold my breath on this one. It's definitely worth it, though. You'll be amazed at what that little fucker can do.
Your lines are so uneven. I don't think i'd be possible to make more useless lines.
There's no doubt the keys are uneven, but your lines are absolute shit.
Browns can arguably be the best MX set out there. Cherry browns are garbage and have too much grit, so they don't slide well, but Gateron browns are fucking heaven. Compare a zealio to 62g lubed (gateron) browns and you'll see that they're the exact same thing.
The Razer Blackwidow is pretty solid, and the switches are fully next level. There's a great modification guide out there for FN layering and changing the RGB patterns to adjust to the layer you're on. On top of that, you can load whatever firmware you want, and it's NKRO. Plus, you can't leave out how many colors the RGB LEDs have, they're absolutely stunning. 5/7 would recommend.
How do you like that? I have a kalih blue board (razor), I can't play CS with it because it makes so much noise so it covers in game sounds (I play with open ear headphones though)
I'm a UK fag so UK layout is nice but i could live with toggling between the two.
They really look like they're trying to jew you with the Granite drop. I just want some caps for my Pok3r, but the most basic set includes the function row and doesn't include modifiers.. like what the fuck.
What do I have to do to get some nice blank PBT DSA caps for a 60%?
Ehh. I do like Topre. Would probably rank it equal to Greens, possibly lower. Would definitely not put Clears equal to Greens. I suppose I agree with the rest. I hate to think I prefer Blues to buckling spring, but I did own both types of keyboards at once and chose to use the one with Blues.
Ontop is the cooler master
Bottom is a generic dell keyboard
You're not wrong, but Razer have staff members on the floor in China doing QA.
Oh wow, that's a fair size difference. Thank you for taking the time to do that.
Manchester pleb here, you?
They arent. They are rubberdomes.
You have varing layers of plastic above the dome, but it is not mechanical. You're still suppressing a rubberdome. Not a mechanical switch that hits the circuit
but why exactly? i figured it'd be blue/green unanimously.
also i finally have a mech board and i love it i am glad i didn't buy into the "mechanical is a meme" shit, but it also is making me want to build my own now too, maybe a 60%. is it possible to stay under $150/200 building your own? is that budget even worth it?
>Then why are you here?
>Go to reddit and smash your keyboard with a shoe
To make people mad.
Judging by your post, I'd say it works.
Jokes aside, I'm here to bring people to the right side.
>5: caused by, resulting from, or relating to a process that involves a purely physical as opposed to a chemical or biological change or process <mechanical erosion of rock>
So, what is the definition of the term "mechanical keyboard" ?
years ago the popular "i'm a REAL 4chan anon" go-to was to tell people to go back to reddit. these days 4chan is closer to what reddit used to be, and now reddit actually has some pleasant boards/content if you know how to move past the front page.
True topre fag in denial.
Its a rubberdome
Your definition does not describe anything relating to a keyboard. But nice try using it to describe it. Words have multiple meanings in different situation.
the definition we use for mechanical keyboards are:
>my $5 keyboard feels like shit
>but my MMKB that uses the exact same mechanism feels great
Post-purchase rationalization general.
>b-but its japanese superior rubber folded over 1000 times
Now define "mechanical switch".
If "two pieces of conductor making contact" is your definition of mechanical switch, then any membrane is mechanical.
If you exclude membranes, then model Ms aren't mechanical.
If you specifically exclude capacitative stuff, then model Fs aren't capacitative.
Friendly reminder that arguing with retards is a waste of time and of posts (precious posts which we only have a limited amount of).
Being poor truly must be suffering.
- sent from my hhkb
It's the same thing, literally.
He's saying that just because two keyboards use a rubber dome that it's the same exact mechanism.
I'm saying that that's like claiming two cars use the exact same mechanism because they're both internal combustion engines.
So does anyone know if you get a dark grey or light grey (\) key if i order the light grey with dark grey modifiers blank pbt set from massdrop?
I can swap out the ~ key easily enough but having the \ be the wrong color will inflame my tism.
Resisting the urge to call out retards on their idiocy is difficult when typing feels this good.
>>MMKB is expensive
>Do you know how much a custom costs?
Tell that to poorfags foaming at their mouth because I dared spending 220$ without getting a numpad or muh arrows.
I am perfectly fine spending 220$ on a keyboard, it's them who aren't.
>Whats the opinion on that drop?
It's the same price as the store, but you have to wait months for it on md, and i can sell you the pbt spacebar.
Also variable force is shit, get a 45g uniform or 55g
But that keyboard uses mx switches, so people cannot baselessly hate on it.
People who haven't tried topre baselessly hate on it despite never having tried it.
If someone came here and called people retards for spending more than 30 bucks on a keyboard without ever having tried a mechanical keyboard, would you be taking him seriously?
I don't think you understand how rubberdomes work. The change in capacitance is what causes the key to be recognized. By your logic, there isn't a button in the world that isn't mechanical. When people say mechanical keyboards, they're referencing the fact that you're physically closing a circuit with each keypress, there's a huge difference. I like Topres, but you aren't making sense.
You definitely can, but if you're staying below 150, it means you haven't made a single error and you didn't prototype.
My first board cost me around ~300 to make, but I made many errors in the plate design and had to order a second, which is the bulk of the budget. Once you have your plate made, though, the rest is pretty simple. Acrylic can be pretty cheap to order, you'd get 2 layers of 5.6 made for your case, plus another smaller layer of either metal or acrylic for the plate-bottom.
Wiring, diodes, teensy or atmega are cheap, the rest is the basics (switches, keycaps). I've seen people even design their own PCBs (too daunting a task for me).
>By your logic, there isn't a button in the world that isn't mechanical
This is correct.
>physically closing a circuit with each keypress
Actually, Topre is the only switch I know of to which this does not apply. MX-style, ALPS and membrane keyboards all work by closing a circuit with each keypress.
>Its rubber, its same shapped, with the same keytravel
Again, same fallacy.
Different rubber domes have clearly different characteristics. My x300 keyboard has a very nice feel, almost like a Topre with less travel. My RF87 feels great and has a really good bottom out.
Typical cheap rubber domes have much less well-defined tactility and don't feel great when they bottom out.
You do realize people prefer HHKB feel to Realforce feel because of this, correct?
At the end of the day the thing that only question that matters is, "Does it work and feel good?"
Precisely, except on a standard membrane keyboard, there's no mechanical mechanism physically actuating the switch.
It's ridiculous to argue about whether or not Topre's are mechanical. I'd enjoy any keyboard that was made for serious typists, with high quality materials, and built with function in mind. Arguing that Topre is mechanical is a losing battle, instead, move discussion into how Topre is a high quality board, and the neat things you can accomplish with them.
These threads are all polluted with arguments over which keyboard is better, rather than discussing a neat piece of equipment you just acquired, or a custom firmware you built for your board.
It's fine to discuss why you like one keyboard over the other, I get that, but arguing that one's 'best' is absurd. I like my Realforce 108UH and my GH60 for completely different reasons.
>there's no mechanical mechanism physically actuating the switch
But there is, otherwise the switch would never get closed.
Just because the contacts happen to be in a sandwich of plastic doesn't make it less mechanical by that definition.
So if I wanted to fit a Poker 2 with this set including the RGB kit, would I need to be the common kit, the modifier kit, and the RGB kit? Because it doesn't look like the RGB kit comes with a backspace.
>But there is, otherwise the switch would never get closed.
>Just because the contacts happen to be in a sandwich of plastic doesn't make it less mechanical by that definition.
It very much does make a difference, otherwise the board would be more polluted with membrane keyboards, rather than just the buckling-spring style, but on the premise of the original argument, a membrane keyboard using a 'switch' of sorts does not make a Topre board mechanical, yet, wouldn't you argue that a Topre is *more* mechanical than, say, an Apple Wireless? If the premise of the argument is that these threads should be populated with Topre posts because they *are* mechanical, then that argument's been lost, and the premise of the argument needs to be moved into how Topre are quality boards, rather than whether or not they're mechanical.
Lots of people state ergonomics, which is kinda true.
With a 60% your hands are closer to shoulder width apart which is a little more comfortable.
For me i started using a 60% half for the plane reason, and the other half was novelty/ i dont use the other 40% much/ they look cool.