Triggering /g/ edition
Topre sound comparison
[YouTube] Topre Sound Walkthrough (embed)
>>Where to Buy:
>Old Thread: >>52343362
Honestly... after having used the FC660c for a few days now I dont get why people even compare it to rubber dome. Maybe I simply havent used one in too long but this doesnt feel like rubber dome at all. The FC660c doesnt really feel like 45g though. It feels a bit heavier than the blue switches I used before and arent those supposed to be 50g?
Board: Corsair Strafe RGB
Switch: MX Cherry Silent
Not the guy you're replying to, but if I were to guess, it's probably the 108UW, it's a limited edition and impossible to find. Based on the key layout, and the short spacebar particularly, I'd guess it's easier to get in Japan than it is in the US. Definitely a sweet board, though.
What in particular do you like about it? I might be able to recommend something similar.
Actually, scratch that (>>52362546) I just found one. It's a bit pricey, and it won't ship for about a month, but it's in Japan, so you won't have to pay any crazy customs fees:
Code Keyboard's a solid first choice, you can do better for the price in my opinion, but if you like it, go for it. Newegg makes a really solid entry-level mech that's a near replica of the Code, the Rosewill RK-9000v2. The Code advertises itself as a no-thrills, all-business mech, and that's exactly what the Rosewill is. I very much enjoy the standard 'look' of those keyboards, but I dislike how they lack many options to mod them. If you're looking to spend 150 on your first mech, I'd buy something other than the Code, but spending 70-80 bucks on the Rosewill is fine, and it'll last you forever. If there's something in particular that you're looking for, be more specific about what you want and I'll see what I can find!
Well, if you're going to spend the money on it, check out the link I made in this >>52362611 post.
I'm a fan of the JP layout as well, if you want to check out another Topre JP, check out the HHKB-jp. I don't care much for other HHKBs, but the HHKB-JP is probably one of my favorite layouts. There's also a few 7bit layouts that'll fit what you're looking for, but I can understand wanting the keys on the HiPro, they're pretty nice to type on.
To be honest, I'm not a huge fan of Topre, at least not as much as most other people seem to be. I hardly ever bottom out on my modded kc60, and it feels like bottoming out is unavoidable on a Topre. I still keep my 104UG HiPro around because of the keycaps, though :)
I am more of a fan of the HiPro than the Topre. Topre is usable, but far from my favorite.
A little googling shows that Filco has Hipro-ish keyset, but it us all black and ugly.
SA is sorta kinda close I guess, but SP has stocking issues, and every set so far has been butt-ugly.
I have a Corsair cherry red mx keyboard and I spilt soda on it, and now a fair chunk of the keys on the right side (789, uiop, jkl are to name nearly all of them) are sticky and aren't as clicky as the other keys
I am wondering if it's easier to simply replace them or attempt to clean it. This is my only usb keyboard and I don't want to wait weeks. I have tried using compressed air and compressed air in the small opening of the switch when its maxed out but nothings really fixing the issue.
I'd replace the switches. It's inexpensive and you shouldn't have to wait long for the caps (depending on your location, I guess). Cleaning each of the switches individually will be a serious pain in the ass for you, and I can't think of a good solution that you could just drop the switches in that wouldn't cause damage to the conductors inside the switch (Copper leaflets, iirc?). If anybody can think of a cleaning solution that would work well here and wouldn't damage the conductors, you could just desolder the switches and leave them to soak for a few hours. You could disassemble each switch individually, but it'll still be a pain in the rear. It's normally a good idea to have extra switches of your keyboard laying around in case something like that happens. You should definitely unplug your keyboard and make sure you aren't shorting the pcb anywhere, though. Soda's a terrible thing to spill on a keyboard.
Read his blog post about it. Link's at the bottom and has plenty of pictures.
TL;DR- A well-known community member who organizes meetups got into a crazy accident on his way home from a meetup the other day, it's pretty incredible that he walked away from that accident alive, let alone as unharmed as he seems to be. However, he had a ton of rare and expensive keyboards in the back of his car, many have broken (but repairable) pieces, he still can't find one of the keyboards (imo, a very good keyboard), nor his soldering station.
I'm thinking of picking a monoprice mechanical keyboard up. Only 2 issues.
1: hoes that quality? Anyone have any experience with them? They don't seem bad for $60
2: red or blue switch? After doing research I still can't decide. I'll be using it for typing, nit gaming. Blue seems to be the one mist recommended fir typing. Any suggestions?
>mechanical keyboards will never stop looking like shit from the 90's
Feels bad man. If only they offered atleast some more colors than the typical white or black. Fucking everything ever is only available in white or black thesedays.
Reminds me of スタンプ instead of the English "sticker" for messaging apps
Fucking really.... reminds me of fucking Cup Noodles
Good enough, although I never understood why 基板 was something that existed. Why not just use the specific English for more specificity.
Instead of memes, educate me on what is fundamentally wrong with the keyboard. My younger brother has one; got it when they first launched.
Apart from bring annoying to configure the LEDs what is wrong with it? He's had no issues. What substitution is there with per key backlighting for making my station comfy?
I got a shiny ducky and I already turned off the lights. They're cool but by no means necessary. Just get a good non-backlit board fuccboi. I fell for the LED meme, trying to help you there.
Still working on my custom firmware layout. Figured out the default firmware includes a hard coded Dvorak layout, so implementing my custom layout is less of a priority.
It's one of the least clunky keyboards on the market. 10keyless is a meme IMO. And without the wrist rest the keyboard is pretty damn sleek and unobtrusive.
I'm not new to the LED meme. I've already been absolved by the meme and I'm not a super poorfag worried about getting the same performance for cheaper. I'm willing to spend the extra money for aesthetics. Currently using a sidewinder x4 membrane keyboard that I'm 75% happy with apart from red color lock.
>he doesn't understand the good feeling of oneness with cup rubber
The xti looks super cheap and plastic-y. Its also the same price as the aluminum and sleek k70 that looks good and (most likely) has better configuration for backlighting. Any other suggestions?
1) Nothing terrible, but I'd avoid it personally. They have mixed reviews in terms of quality. You're also going to have tough time cleaning those little dimples near the USB port and headphone/mic. You should also be wary of a lower-priced keyboard with too many features (64KRO, USB ports, line in/out). It may be a great board for all I know, but I'm seeing too many reviews where it stops working after a month or so, and that'd make me nervous. I also see reviews where it's still working after a year, which should be expected, but not a bad thing. Now, I've never actually used the board, so it may be great.
2) You're not going to get any real solid answer to your question about the switches. Yeah, people say Blue's are better for typists, but I'm a writer by trade and can't stand them. I use Gateron Browns and don't play video games, though they're often recommended for gamers. You really should try one in store, or at least buy a board off of amazon so you can return it if you don't like it.
tenkeyless is not a meme
just try it senpai shits cash
i use a 60% and still retain all functionality of the k70.
The k70 is fine but again its just kinda shitty compared to tons of others on the market
Many games that I play utilize the number pad. I use it heavily for work and documentation.
So is the K70 just bad being of subjective aesthetic opinion or is there something electronically or mechanical inferior? Apart from those massive, atrocious cables of course.
Also my goal was to have it on a constant white backlight and have it activate blue or brown depending on how brown looks, and then fade back into white.
Ok anon. Here is what I want you to do. Disassemble the keyboard if you can, the warranty is already fucked for you anyway. Disassemble so you just have the PCB and all the caps removed. I'm assuming it's already dry at this point. But if any is still wet, make sure to wipe it up immediately. If you have a solvent lying around that is appropriate for PCB or something like distilled/purified water, make a bath for the keyboard. Making sure to plunge all the switches so that the air bubbles come out of them. If you don't have the above liquids. Don't worry, tap water should work, you just have to ensure you are very particular about drying. Once you have submerged the board and plunged all the switches, making sure there is absolutely no air in the switches. Take the board out and turn it upside down, proceed to plunge the switches ensuring that you release as much liquid as possible out of them. So they're as dry as possible when the switch is depressed. You absolutely need to get Isopropyl Alcohol. It is essential for cleaning a soda spills residue. I'll cont if you're interested. Ps I've done this on a board that was soaked in soda.
>Ps I've done this on a board that was soaked in soda.
It's me again. Yes the board worked after, I just need to spray some Isopropyl in some of switches that were still a little sticky.
if your use a numberpad a lot its better to go for a separate numberpad that fits on the otherside of the mouse or use your left hand and place it to the left
If you are looking for a keyboard that can paint starry night with leds i guess you found your keyboard annon. At least its not ded led razor
Is RGB reaaaaalllly necessary for you? Please remember that the Strafe doesn't have a standard bottom row. So have fun with shiny keys and no replacement in sight for the years that the keyboard will last.
Aluminum plate instead of steel. Non standad layout, meaning no custom keycaps. Shitty stock keycaps that will wear with use and let the leds murder your yes.
Anyone know where I can find the old Quickfire Rapid TKL with brown switches? Everywhere I look they are either out of stock or they only have the new ones that light up which I don't want.
If it's discontinued is there anything similar that's just a no-frills TKL with brown switches and good letter etching under $100?
Gateron PBT, finally!
It's a meh set, but that's to be expected with NPKC. It's definitely worth the money, the questions whether it's worth the wait, and for the price, I'd say go for it. If they're shit, it's not like you lost an arm and a leg.
The problem with NPKC is that they're ridiculously unpredictable and inconsistent with their products. They always have frightening issues, shipping delays, and end up pissing people off, but the people who end up with the good stuff end up enjoying it.
I ordered 3 of the KC60's when they came out, they ended up shipping me two and one never arrived. The first one was shipped out about a month late, the next was shipped ~20 days later. One of the KC60's was beautiful, but they misspelled "Backspace" (ironic), the other was absolute dogshit (ordered different caps and case)
Again, for a cheap product like those caps, I'd just say set and forget, but be careful with their expensive items.
Mech keyboards are built to be expandable, customizable, functional, and sometimes durable. If you want durable to be your first choice, get a Model-M, those things just don't quit. Some mechs are absolute garbage and clunk out when you use the USB hub, though. Some have switches that die quickly, have cabs that snap, lights that die out, shorts within the board, etc. In most of the well-known boards, the boards that are recommended most frequently, they're consistently reliable and easily tinkered with. In other boards, they're garbage.
The k70 is the last thing people think about when they hear programmable. Look for a board that's using an ATmega32u4. The WhiteFox is a great programmable board, the GH60 is a good programmable board, so on and so forth. If you're really into aesthetics and LEDs, get a Gon or something.
I'm not the same guy you were debating with btw. If you have your heart set on the K70, go for it. The reason people advise you to go the opposite direction is because you'll eventually want to start customizing the board, and you just won't have the option with it.
I'm pretty set on the ducky shine 5 with black switches, actually.
Watched an 18 minute review on it. Looks good even though it's plastic. It seems like I can get all of the customization I want with it. Primarily looking for solid backlighting with color coded WASD and there specific keybinds as well as reactive keypresses in RGB random and set colors.
The functionality on the board seems like it can handle that for me. The addition of not needing any software and having all of the modes onboard is pretty great as well.
>Looks good even though it's plastic.
You are being deceived by corsair. Pretty much every mechanical keyboard nowadays have a steel backplate, where the cherry switches are mounted. What corsair did was remove the usually plastic cover that goes above that plate, geting it exposed with the "floating switch" aesthetics.
For what matters, corsair is inferior on that point, because they use aluminum instead of steel. Its lighter, its thinner, it has more flex. Corsair keyboards arent less "plastic-y" then every other keyboard out there.
looks like the whitefox is gonna have a slimmer case
Its the best PBT out there, except for BSP / OG Cherry.
They are a little bit less textured then Vortex, but not as smooth as BSP. Pretty thick also.
The dyesub is very good, way less blurry then imsto's, but in the past there were some reports os misalignment on some legends.
Pic related, the US -- Red set he is selling.
>tfw its literally impossible to find nice ISO PBT key caps
Ah, right on. I personally don't care much for the Ducky Shine boards, but I've heard good things about them. Being able do everything onboard is pretty much a requirement for any board you'll want to buy, just a heads up.
Anyway, considering how many people in the Mech community use them as their daily drivers, I'd say it's a fair choice. Do you happen to know the controller that the board uses by chance?
Gateron PBT is honestly one of my favorites, but it's a pain in the ass to find. I actually prefer it over Cherry, there seems to be slightly more profile to them or something which makes it more comfortable to type on.
Any particular set you're looking to buy? I've only a single set, and would buy more if I could find them.
IMO this is a nice set. https://corus-kb.com/en/keycaps/69-vortex-pbt-keycaps-full-set-105-iso-nordic-top-side-printed-.html?search_query=nordic+pbt&results=5#/62-printing_type-side_printed
They hace other ISO layouts as well
Ducky and Vortex sets can be good thanks to their thickness. Then there's Tai-Hao but they have odd colors and that horrible anti-microbial coating on them. Though there recently was a black on very dark gray set up on massdrop without it.
If you're willing to wait and pay out of your ass there's another round of Granite coming which will have full support for most ISO countries.
Finally, you should realize that ANSI PBT sets are rare too. Add onto that the issues of our weird enter key shape and lots of different legends for various languages... That shit gets expensive and complicated.
Thank god I won't have to spend on caps ever again... I'd be poor in no time
Is that the vortex set? doesnt look too bad either.
can you upload a video with the sound of the board, maybe?
>no ISO set
Yeah, they wanted to but there were issues. Gateron do have an ISO enter mold now but it was provided for by a different vendor who wants exclusivity and it would cost like $5000 to produce another mold.
Gateron also mold complete sets all in one go so adding an ISO shift key and 2 more 1 unit keys would mean harvesting them from a full ANSI set and throwing away the rest. To be able to offer cheap ISO kits they, again, need new molds.
Fuck me, why must this be so impossibly expensive?
Danish ISO 105
Replaceable USB cable
Not some retarded gamer shit
Less LEDs = Better
The only thing that comes close is a WASD - importing one from the US is ridiculously expensive thanks to shipping and VAT.
is the general consensus that a full size is better or a tenkeyless and a num pad? or is it all a matter of preference?
I wanna get into mechs but im still trying to figure out exactly what im looking for.
It's pretty much a matter of preference, but if you never use your numpad, you might as well get a TKL.
If you use your numpad sometimes and you don't mind getting an external numpad with your TKL (will usually cost more together than a fullsize), go for that.
If neither of the above apply, get a fullsize.
Group buy for WASD barebones with tons of options that just needs 6 (!) more orders:
Reasonable shipping cost and no added tax because it'll be within the EU.
Who am I kidding, it's going to fail, isn't it?
You guys will probably think I'm insane, but I have a USB adapter for N64 controller. I only really play retro games that use a dpad, and if you hold the controller like pic related, it's arguably the most comfortable retro controller on the market.
Ungh, then I'll -still- need a pack of caps.
And probably a cable as well.
Next thing I know I'll be fucked when it dies within a year of purchase or something equally stupid.
Might as well just wait forever.
is a wasd v2 a good idea for a first board?
i know its a little pricier but considering the customization should i just splurge for it?
do the keys smooth out and the letters disappear after enough use?
Very good board, very bad keycaps. The caps use some of the thinnest, cheapest ABS on the market which they then print using a method that really isn't worth the sacrifice in quality unless you're printing images. You will get shine and the printing probably lasts a year with heavy use (they add a clear coat to try to protect the print).
ordered a pok3r with pbt keycaps
and they sent me the backlit version instead
Ah, thanks. It's essentially the same drop that Massdrop's doing right now, but a bit more expensive. They do have the Milk White (or 'Beige' as they call it, but it looks like Milk) and Dye Subs. I hate waiting months on these things, but seems like it'll be worth it in the end.
I bought a KC 60 a while back for ~110 and sold the keycaps for 80 bucks, but have been pissed about that ever since, since I haven't been able to find a similar set, only blanks. This looks like it's the same set from EnjoyPBT on TaoBao.
2 that I bought myself: Ducky Shine 3 red cherry mx and pok3r clear cherry mx
1 was gifted to me which is a cmstorm qfr blue cherry mx
I've got a magicforce keyboard from lagdrop in gateron clears in transit and a barebones whitefox kits in jack of all trades layout coming in from the second batch.
It's bretty gud. The aluminum frame is amazing and makes it's really solid. It's comfirtable to type on in my opinion (I have mx clears) and the pbt caps it comes with feels good man.
le ebin memedora eksde Dx
I got ya covered senpai
I feel like topre and clears almost feel a bit like polar opposites. Clears build up resistance after the tactile bump, pushing your finger back. Topre on the other hand looses it's resistance and collapses after the bump, meaning that you'll bottom out pretty much all the time.
Both feel really good. They feel a hella different, but I can tell you that I could go back from my HHKB to my Shine 4 with clears and I wouldn't really have any complaints (other than the fact that it's fuckhuge).
I prefer Topre for the sound, the lightness and the comfiness of typing on it. It just feels so right.
I like MX Clears for their tactile bump and resistance. They also feel really nice to type on. Not as nice as Topre, but still really fucking nice.
It's not going to get more fixed than this.
It doesn't get in the way of my feet, and I never see it anyway. Nor do I ever change anything (I didn't even change the cable when I got my new keyboard, they both use the same connector). I'm not going to change this until I actually have a reason to move my computer somewhere else.
whoops, forgot to change the picture.
No, they're supposed to light up when you use them (programming macros & n key mode). I got the Deck for my first MKB and I wanted both PBT and backlighting, not knowing that backlit PBT usually looks like ass. Oh well, don't really mind that much and the Deck was definitely a solid choice for a foray into mechs
Returned my cm quickfire rapid with browns. Ordered a Kul es-87 with cherry clears. The browns were just too soft to the touch for me.
Hopefully the people saying clears are too heavy for gaming are limp wristed faggots.
Am i going to hate cherry stabilizers compared to the costar ones?
Anybody have any experience with kul?
using this one
had a Corsair K70 with blues as my first mech, half a year later it shit itself and I got my money back
switched to some cheap ass rubberdome Logitech K120 in the meanwhile and I'm still stuck with it
the weird thing is, I don't really miss the K70 - the keys felt too high, the keycaps felt shitty (even compared to this $10 rubber dome) and the clicking got annoying after a while
now, I kinda want to get another mech but I'm not sure if I'll be happy with it
Go to your local tech store and try out other switch types. Get something with a standard ANSI125 layout and you can replace the caps. Adjust your chair/keyboard height to reduce issues with the keyboard feeling too tall.
I plan on getting a new mechanical keyboard and I need some advice. The only mechanical keyboard I have owned previously had MX browns. I loved the keyboard, but I would always bottom-out really hard.
What switch should I use to either avoid bottoming-out or make it softer.
Would topre be a good fit?
I'm wondering if I should get a set of blank CMY mods from Shadovved's latest GB to go with my ghost white set. Might be nice. They would cost nearly as much as the full set, though. Oh well, I have a month to sit on it.
So i had a CM Ultimate Quickfire keyboard that just failed on me after 1.5years, opened it up and it had disgusting soldering they didn't even clean it up.
Looking for a decent quality again that's not CM.
Filco or ducky?
Not to troll or anything but I've been using this keyboard for about a year now and it's really comfortable. I don't see any good reason to switch to a mechanical one over this.
Because that keyboard will wear out sooner than a mechanical version would. Other than that, there's literally no reason.
What macros would you guys put on one of these bad boys.
I'd like undo/redo and zoom+/zoom- for photoshop and stuff.
60% topre/mx green mustard race reporting in
Are there any keyboards that are effectively a cheaper k70?
The metal back plate and lack of a shroud (so the switch is flush with the surface of the board rather than embedded in) make it seem like the only choice for a permanent keyboard; it's durable and easy to clean.
I read the guides and all the recommended keyboards are essentially the Microsoft 600 with mechanical switches.
>it's durable and easy to clean
Not more so than other keyboards. Their QC is average, and cleaning isn't much of an issue when the primary hassle in cleaning is removing all the keycaps.
Even after removing keys you have to get in there to clean around the bezels and such.
The section dividing the enter key from the home/arrow keys make my current keyboard a massive problem to clean. If the entire surface with the keys removed was flush then I could give it a once over with a cloth or even just tip the keyboard sideways and have crumbs or whatever fall off.
> If the entire surface with the keys removed was flush
The switches still protrude out from the plate just as much as any other keyboard.
But the lolita spyder is the ultimate poorfag floating keys board.
If you're going to coil your cable, at least learn the last step. I'm not going to tell it to you, google it, it's simple enough to find and you already have everything you need to make the coil tight.
It bugs me so much to see unfinished coils
Heh I don't know.
I saw some YouTube videos and it sounds so dampened that it almost doesn't have the topre cloppity clop sound anymore.
Also I am scared of breaking the plastic case or losing springs.
Getting O-rings will completely remove the ping of my blue switches.
nothing removes the ping.
it's the sheer force of your fingers on a steel plate that makes it reverber.
no matter how much rubber you put between them, you are still going to hit it rythmically and make it vibrate.
The rubber will only partially suppress the bottom-out. I put O-rings on my filco at work. As long as I don't bottom out, the sound of the actuation is the only thing audible. It's still loud, but it's a good way to practice not bottoming out since it reduces the travel length noticeably.
>Who here likes to occasionally type on rubber domes just to be reminded of that mushy feeling?
bought this last month
pressed the power button the next day to boot the computer. it didn't do anything. pressed harder. power button stayed in.
You're in the wrong thread bud. If you want a keyboard that will last you longer than like a year, you need to drop $100 for a mechanical. Which won't have any of those kind of issues, mechanicals don't break unless you go out of your way to destroy them or spill liquids in them.
>dell has always been good
That's not the point buttlord. It's not a mechanical keyboard. This thread is about mechanical keyboards, not just keyboards in general. All the advice you're gonna get in here is "get a mechanical keyboard".
The only dell keyboard I like is that $30 one with the touchpad build in. That thing is convenient as fuck for a media pc or if you have a big monitor and want to use the computer from a couch or something
kys dumb frog hamster poster
honestly i'm kinda waiting for this whole 60% topre meme to die out
unrelated to that but people that buy 60% boards w/separate numpads and keep the numpad to the right of their keyboard are fucking idiots
It is here!
>$151 to outfit my Compact SQ
>April 18th ship date
>wont arrive here until May
That is annoying.
>150$ for a granite set
>delays and horrible quality control
>massdrop is know for wrong shipping, missing keys and bad sets
Hurr durr why is topre so expensive?
>>massdrop is know for wrong shipping, missing keys and bad sets
SP is actually pretty solid with their QC. But it goes to MD first before it ships to you, which is in my opinion a Very Bad Thing.
Regarding the debate about whether certain keyboards are mechanical or not:
Most keyboards are technically mechanical since there are moving parts. This includes some of the cheapest rubber dome or scissor switches and makes the term pretty useless.
The keyboard community has instead collectively redefined the term to refer to a subset of boards that fulfill extra requirements. Most common is the idea that the switch must activate before it bottoms out. Some other properties that are sought after include good durability and feel.
Topre and bucking springs fulfill all these requirements just as well as any Cherry switch. It also makes no sense to divide an already limited topic when they have so much in common.
If you can think of a better definition for "mechanical keyboard" that doesn't mention any brand names, I'd love to hear it. But it's too late to change the community. Deal with it.
TL;DR: Most keyboards are mechanical, the term is misused, this is really a high-end keyboard general.
Can someone who has used topre and blues answer this:
The actuation force for blues is just perfect for me, so should I get Topre 55g? Why do some people claim that Topre feels heavier than blues even though the force required to get past blues' bump is 60g? It doesn't make sense.
Wait, are you trying to argue that hhkb are good because normies only go on facebook and don't need the excess keys.
How many normies of that caliber do you think even has a desktop computer, let alone a mechanical keyboard.
Your argumentation is shit.
If he is oging to Japan and you like blues, why not order a custom Filco?
They look fantastic. And they even support the Convertible 2 board now for most designs.
topre doesn't feel heavier than blue.
I'll try and help you since I used both:
blue has almost zero resistance until you hit the point where it clicks. then you need the force to make it click.
the problem is that you can make the keys wobble with almost no force before hitting the click. I could move my fingers across the keyboard and make them slightly depress no problem for the 1mm before the click.
this leads to a cheap feel.
Topre on the other hand has a more solid feel and you need the force pretty much from the start to press it, and then you feel the dome collapsing and then it goes down (but quickly starts pushing you back up!).
the key activates 1mm in like the blue iirc.
in the end, you can't make topre keys wobble by hovering your fingers over them like with blues, so it feels more solid and classy.
The shitty noise of blue is another matter.