who is the king of fah?
is it Rick?
>found his niche got comfortable, p much is doing the same thing season to season.
Is it Raf?
We all know Raf hasn't been Raf since around spring 01 but still had a great run and offered not just great fashion but presented something a lot of us could relate to back then -- references to teen culture etc..
is it Damir?
>Mostly disavowed throughout the fashion forums now and in most fashion circles and is shunned by most now, -- mostly for trying to be the next Armani but definitely was a progressive game changer early on for being so young. Offered a very intricate collection, even so with his silent line which many feel is on par with others featured offerings.
It is not Sruli.
>Not even currently active. Never put out much work, being small isn't an excuse and regardless of rare / unique materials he chooses to use none of his work holds ground against many others doing the same thing but better, IE CCP, Lumen Et Umbra, Carpe Diem/Lmaltieri etc..
Whatever happened to Hedi? Shit, a cartoon version of him used to be the board mascot and representative in comics.
I like how you guys found Rick last year and realized he's doing the same thing when it was evident since 2001
Anyways, 2009-2011 thanks for all the money you idiots made me. I found that shit on clerance in Newport, la and San Diego malls
>not even currently active
You really missed the mark
None of who you mentioned is really comparable to Sruli at all, technically or otherwise. As far as aesthetic vision, Sruli doesn't have a direct competitor. Some elements of Inaisce come close, and though the feel is totally different; the tailoring shares similarities with Devoa et al at times.
Get off the sz hypetrain, CCP is not the be all and end all of artisanal clothing.
Lumen Et Umbra for me is in the same boat as LUC and the prime example Zam B; hyped through the ceiling by sz.
Damir isn't relevant, on /fa/ or anywhere else.
Raf has some support here, but the king is definitely Rick.
Look at the conceptual discourse from 08-AW12 then look at it from SS12 to now.
Abandoned or started to move away from what was effectively medieval fantasy to silk loungewear chic (watered down Haider) around AW11. I don't know to me it started to look more and more like what you'd see from lanvin or some of the other older Parisian fashion houses but badly constructed (not that damir ever really had good construction) and without the historical appeal and security those Parisian houses offered. The companies mysterious expansions into perfume, furniture(?) and womens while also completely revamping the concept also indicated to me that it wanted to escape the kind of 'avant garde' niche it had been established in.
I don't know if the perfume is still going.
Facets of carpe diem are certainly comparable to Sruli especially in light of their willingness to utilise almost unorthodox technology in the imagining and construction of garments.
(Laser cutting, 3D computer analysis and imaging, etc)
I guess InAisce could been seen as similar in aeshetic for one or two of the earlier seasons but I think the philosophy and themes are totally different (especially when you look at some of InAisce's later work).
To be honest for me the closest active contemporary labels to Sruli are Issey Miyake and Aitor Throup - well... for those that I'm interested in.
LUC is actually one of the most innovative knit wear producers globally, Luca is a genius/clinically insane.
LEU is weird, I think it lost a lot of it was recently, pretty cool treatments still though.
Why are you even mentioning Zam amongst LUC?
Agree with what you said except for the last part.
Raf seems like he's taken more seriously by retailers and such, Rick seems like a bit of a joke in the fashion crowd.
It could just be French/European influence though.
I agree that there's been a certain lack of focus on the overall range, but I don't think that he isn't without his strengths and signatures (e.g. unusual takes on suiting, chunkier proportions, lavish detail on sportswear styles). I cut the line a lot of slack mostly because he's a young dude, he's got pressure from his investors to grow and develop the brand, and he's obviously figuring out what he wants to do as he goes along.
Raf has gone through several changes in style in his career and though he went through distinct "periods" (I guess you could say that), there has always been a tension between his core values as a designer and the need to explore new ideas, new territory. It might have been a more natural evolution for Raf (e.g. the appointment at Jil), so perhaps part of why you're not pleased with Damir's development is that it's been in a much shorter span of time and probably feels a little more forced and less like a steady evolution.
>Rick seems like a bit of a joke in the fashion crowd
I don't know what you mean, but he obviously has fun with what he does and taking yourself too seriously, much less in fashion, is a one-way ticket to being boring and preachy. I'll take a designer who makes "Bodybag" rompers and "Brancusi" wedges over a designer who thinks he's saving the world any day of the week.
I want to say Hedi because he meets almost all the requirements
he has only had one single interview in probably all his career since Dior
rocking black since SLP collection V
>slim or skinny fits
Hedi invented skinny jeans
>good taste in music and design
nice music in the runways and SLP music projects are p cool
well, i think that's enough
Hedi is Love
Hedi is Life
>Rick seems like a bit of a joke in the fashion crowd.
He's one of the strongest selling brands around, and in spite of constant problems with the ordering process stockists are still beating down his door because his clothes just about print them money.
if hedis your favorite "designer" you might as well wear a sandwich board telling the world you dont know anything about fashion
which i guess is pretty par for the course as king of /fa/
I don't want to say, only because I don't know if it could be linked back to the people who I've talked to about it.
He is *the* most successful independent luxury label on the market. Only the luxury megabrands are able to outstrip him in sales, and only because their production runs and the number of stockists are several orders of magnitude greater than his.
>unorthodox technology in the imagining and construction of garments
I'll pay that.
I agree to an extent, I was going to include him in my original post if I hadn't felt it would be too long winded.
The difference between Aitor and Sruli is the level of tailoring that is purely anatomical, and in this regard Aitor is in his own league.
In the case of Aitor Throup, extreme consideration is given to function, there's a distinct technical vibe for me.
Much of Sruli's work however incorporates elements that are very complex, but definitely not anatomical (ie the use of darting, the sloped shoulder etc)
I'm a fan of Luca's work, but LUC for some reason has become the quintessential darkdad look. Don't know if I'll ever be able to escape those connotations.
>Why are you even mentioning Zam amongst LUC?
le nigerian prince deserves naught but praise
this is pretty funny, and i get that the punchline is that your words are as apparently credible as mine, but let's be real: rick picks up dozens of stockists every season and buys just keep getting deeper and deeper.
there will be a critical mass where rick's hype starts to taper off and it's likely that rick in ten or twenty years will be a smaller label than it is today, but otoh his revenue has increased ten fold in a decade and there is no sign of it slowing down any time soon.
>king of /fa/
Not king of fashion
I don't know if they're strengths, signatures maybe.
It always comes off as clumsy to me especially compared to the more refined versions others produce (Haider, Rick, KVA, Dior) - why would anyone go to Damir?
Fair points on maybe why he should be given slack but I don't think a consumer and then buyer can afford those considerations since bottom line is it isn't really providing anything worthwhile anymore. I definitely feel you on the pressure investor front, I think the guy whos been rolling him (forgot name) decided to tighten the reigns and drive him for it all.
Yeah but I also think Raf has been driving a very concise narrative that can be traced as far back as AW99. There have been dramatic changes in production and design but its always been loyal to the story, constantly explored and developed. Maybe I'm making up the story whatever I like it.
I think why I don't like Damir's work now is because it feels lost (kind of what you've said) and I'm a bit disappointed that what he used to do got dropped. Probably that was out of his control but I can't afford that sympathy.
This is a piss poor rebuttal.
not even close...where were you when he was going through southern asia gowning local tribes in finely pleated polyester?
>AT vs SR
A lot of Sruli's early work (suiting in particular) was very concious of the body and its articulatoin - even a lot of the work he did in Iceland appreciates and respects the bodies movements to a degree rivaling Devoa.
>tailoring that is purely anatomical, and in this regard Aitor is in his own league.
no, not really - Sruli, Devoa and Issey also appreciate the bodies movement in their work, a lot more than Aitor aswell I would say.
>quintessential darkdad look.
Were we having an argument?
Fashion nerds smh
>The Antwerp 6 are the kings/queens from my uneducated perspective, they influenced most designers we praise.
except nobody talks about any of them but Ann D
you can't really be the king if you are retired
It's funny because with the more you hear about the Owens empire the more it becomes clear that if anything is going to ruin it it will be Rick's apathy towards the administrative side.
They definitely cancel styles due to not reaching factory minimums or other production issues, but not any more or less than anybody else that I've noticed. Wang usually has at least a handful of major pieces that never see retail because nobody picks it up or they don't price out well. It's especially a fact in contemporary, but the recent strength of that market has been that it's easy for retailers to assemble smaller buys in diverse brand matrices and still produce a cohesive experience for customers. It also seems like the increase in number of self-operated points of sale has made it easier for them to stabilize and solidify their stock position, too.
If it's true, that sucks for the retailer(s) involved, but dealing with errors has always been a part of running a business, too.
is this nigger making this shit up? rick is living like a fucking boss. has a mansion in paris and several stores. doesn't even fucking speak the language. sure he has mitchelle to thank for a lot of his success in paris but whenever has an american been accepted and valued so much in the paris fashion world. the shit he gets to do in shows only others could dream of.
Philip Lim maybe? What I like about Philip Lim is that that quality seems extremely good (from handling it) and the designs are very interesting, thought provoking and adventurous.
I don't own any Lim I'm not a fan as such but I value designers who are highly daring, innovative, unique and put emphasis on quality.
Margiela is similar in their design MO but the quality is unacceptable.
Heidi is responsible for killing (Yves) Saint Laurent's prestige and turning the label into some pseudo-goth abomination.
Rick is in no way respected in the same way that Raf, Karl, Kris Van (etc) are. He's a black sheep who is loved by the press and fuccbois and not many more. I'm not saying he's a bad designer by any means, but he's far from "respected" in the Parisian fashion crowd.
My vote for true king of /fa/ goes to Yohji.
Here are a few from talking to myself
hahaha you gave yourself away when you mentioned kVa. knew you were troll in m8
also fun fact about yohji -- back when he was raking in all the dollars in the late 80s - 90s your fah 'king' was sold in common malls across amerifat.
ysl and goth don't even belong in the same universe. what the actual fuck are you talking about.
heidi is shit but everything he does appeals to the masses and has made ysl bigger than ever.
have you ever even been in a ysl store?
you do realize they almost never have sales and are constantly selling their newest collections in ridiculous high volume vs other houses.
>SLP is similar to goth
nigga, Hedi came to save YSL from dadcoreness, I've found a baggy jumper in an outlet store from YSL when it was YSL and not SLP
YSL was more unto high end formal wear, SLP is more into Redy to Wear with a special style, i would say kind of faggy but its a reinvention of a previous one combined with the old YSL
back to Hollister, nigger