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Guitar refinishing
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You are currently reading a thread in /diy/ - Do It yourself

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Hey guys /Gg/ here, I asked about this on /mu/ but there was no useful replies. How would I go about refinishing my sonic blue mustang to this custom 1966 custom Sparkle color? What would be a good step by step including
> best way to strip original paint
> spray paint or actual paint
> lacquer or nitrocellulose
> best spray companies and colors
> could I make my own sparkle color with glitter and a shiny/metallic blue?
> how to evenly spread the paint
Take off all removable parts. From what I can tell that would be nearly everything that isn't blue or wood.

Get some fine and rough sanding paper sheets. Use the rough one to remove all paint, then the fine one to smooth the surface. Remove all sawdust afterwards.

Hang up the guitar and mask everything you don't want to paint. Use white spray foundation as a primer and apply one layer. After it has dried, apply one layer of your chosen paint, apply a second layer after it has dried. Keep an eye on the threads for the screws, you don't want them sealed up.

After everything is finished, apply some clear lacquer as protection. Let it dry and reassemble your guitar.

As for your questions, I'd not try to make my own sparkle paint. No matter how you'd try it, it will not turn out as you want it to be. Buying quality paint once is still cheaper than having to buy basic paint twice because your screwed up.

If you want to get it done fast, use spray paint out of a can. If you want to do it properly, get actual paint and use a paint sprayer. This will get you the results you are looking for. In terms of what kind of paint to use, I'd go for lacquer, but that's just my thing to do.

As for companies, I can't help you. We most liklely are on two different continents and what we have in stock is unknown to you.

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Wow this was very in depth thank you!
Can I just clog up the screw holes with toothpicks to avoid sealing it up?
Here's the guitar I'm reprinting for reference
I'm in North America btw
Luthier here, I do this fairly often.

Heatgun and a scraper for the paint removal. Trust me, sanding it off will take forever. Once the bulk of the paint is off you'll have to sand the primer off with some 80 grit, then once clean work your way up to 220. Make 100% sure you don't make any dips or anything while sanding. Keep it flat.Your paint job is only as good as your prep job.

Spray it with new primer. Then flat sand everything all over again once dry. Prep.

As for painting a lot of us use automotive paints and sprayers. Lightly sand between coats to remove the orange peel effect. You can mix any color or style of paint including glitter.
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this is my squier strat. I love the sound, but i don't like the look. I was wondering, if i could use the Tru-Oil finish on this guitar, and how do you actually do it? i would use it only on the body, not the neck or anything else.

Sand it down to bare wood and apply tru-oil. It's for bare wood, not poly
i know that! i have seen a lot of videos and i have some experience in carpeting since it was mandatory at school.

i am ready tho sand away the old finish, as it is shit, because the smallest bump cause a hole in it.

but what then?

I apply the tru-oil, as seen on youtube. And after like 20 layers it's done? no more additional coatings ?
Pretty much, although I would be cautious about removing the finish and paint. What's underneath a squier strat is not likely to be very pretty. There is likely a veneer on the top covering multiple chunks of wood. Take a look at the cavities before proceeding. The sides of the guitar could be very ugly.
i know the risks, but this is an old Affinity strat, the body looks like it's made from 3 pieces, and i read somewhere, that the only good thing on an Affinity is the wood, also this is my secondary guitar
I've heard a rumor that lots of guitar bodies (especially those manufactured overseas) have a coat of lead-based paint. Any idea if there's any truth to this?
Luthier here again. I've never tested it but it very well could be true. I always wear appropriate gear to be safe.

Also, its very common that these big manufacturers use bondo to fill mistakes and chips caused by cnc machines and routers, if theyre going to paint it anyway. Keep that in mind.
You'll get sick of putting on additional coats long before you get to 20. If I knew who it was I'd tell you, but there has been at least one guy get all set up with a bunch of matching, prepared wood slats and started putting on Tru oil. He found no difference in appearance after I think four, maybe five coats. I've refinished many rifles with it, the first coat or two are basically "warm ups," and then a couple more for good measure, and you're done.
i don't know man. i would keep it with the original paint. it's from 1966 what the fuck
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