So I'm looking to get a 10" diablo sawblade on my bed as as that's what I'm hearing is the best.
Looking to go full kerf so there's less flex in the blade.
Ideally I'd like to buy one blade for both crosscuts and rips, as i don't own a chop saw.
What would you guys recommend? How many teeth?
Diablo is Freud's contractor line, not what you want if you want the cleanest cuts.
That itty bitty babby table saw would benefit from a thin kerf blade.
"Thin kerf is flexy" is a myth. The main benefit from full kerf is longer blade life and it will take more sharpenings before it's toast.
This is what I use and it's the bee's knees. I often hear that Forrest blades are the best, but I can't speak for them and they cost too much.
For a 10" blade, 48 is the usual amount on a combination blade. It's what I have on my saw (same as pic but yurop version) and I never really change it out except for the time I bought a Freud rip and combo blade which brings me onto >>941658
>"Thin kerf is flexy" is a myth.
I can safely say that it is not a myth. I originally bought a very good Axcaliber blade with a 3.2mm kerf and had no problems with it but only opted for Freud because I thought I'd waste less re-sawing and that. Things seemed OK as far as I could tell for a while until I started making new sleds and jigs. It seemed no matter how hard I tried to make things exactly square, it would always be off in some way. This persisted and I remained unaware of what the problem was untill I made some picture frames. Same deal again, checked everything thoroughly and could have sworn up that everything was perfectly square to the blade.
After more tests I finally realized that my cuts weren't just square but bowed along their length. The blade was deflecting nearly everything I put to it and was fucking my shit up. Immediately threw back in my old fat blade and never had the problem again.
In my experience it's worth spending the bit more.
huh. were the fence/miter slots dead even with the blade?
I use a skillsaw blade in my tablesaw 90% of the time, deep enough depth of cut to go through 2x4's no problem, which is most of what I cut.
That's fine I guess. There could be other elements at play here but there was nothing on my tablesaw's top that changed in between, just the blade. The only thing that gave me drastically different results was going back to my older, thicker blade. If it works for you though, it works for you.
Everything I've said is anecdotal at best and I wouldn't personally take it as a fact.
I've got the same saw setup and like it a lot.
As far as far as older and traditionally thicker blades go, yeah I think they're superior to the newer and inherently thinner blades.
Thinner and cheaper to produce in quantity and marketing to sell them is what they are IMO.
Thanks for all the advice guys, id like fancy accessories and blades, but that will have to wait.
Spent about 100$ and i believe that should get me going safely, cleanly and functionally.
Looking to build
and small router table or integrate one into workbench i am planning.
A+: score on what u shud hav for safety. I make my own, scrap wood isn't total waste.
B+ on the dust collector bag, I don't have one but accept it would be nice to have.
Blades if they're thin I don't have confidence in performance.