I'm building this wardrobe. The interior is made of OSB boards to have freedom of arrangement of shelves and hangers later on. However, I'm a bit concerned about the rough surface of the boards. Splinters coming loose may damage clothes. I don't mean my jeans or polyester but rather my gf's sexy things.
Any ideas what kind of paint would seal OSB well? Is it worth sanding beforehand?
Osb can finish up quite nice once properly sanded.
Plenty of example of it being used in furniture around. Only got a link to a stool but a quick Google should give some wardrobe examples
plaster it, theres a way i heard of working, by mixing a plaster and kiltz paint, no vinyl based plaster.. if its chalky then add a coat without plaster to seal it.. i understand kiltz will work ok by itself if you dont care about texture.
To be different.
>Much harder to work with, would have to invest in new tools.
It's more expensive if your time is worthless. Do you really want to go through with finishing a material that really wasn't intended to be finished? OSB is for hidden structural elements.
Fun fact, you can actually buy Grade A Interior OSB. It's been "stylish" for a few years. On it's way out though.
>Much harder to work with, would have to invest in new tools.
No and no.
To finish it, sand it, prime it, and paint it. You could also go with a thick poly coat if you want the look.
Chatting absolute shit is your biggest downfall in life.
>take advice from people who know
>presume advice is wrong and my cheaper uglier decision was the right one
OSB isn't designed for anything on show. As one anon mentioned, regardless if you can now get OSB with that purpose, it doesn't make it any more appealing.
All wood needs finishing if it is going to be on show.
You can use some nice pine furniture board but you still going to have to sand it down for a decent finish.
If you haven't got the time for sanding pay me to make your furniture for you.
>OSB isn't designed for anything on show.
First of all, it isn't for show. It is the interior of a fucking wardrobe.
Second, I'm not asking what to put instead of OSB while it's already there. I'm asking how to finish the surface to minimize the risk of having loose splinters. If I make another wardrobe I will consider another material. Thank you.
Is it clear now?
As it going to be out of sight.
I would sand and paint.
Couple of coats should be enough... yes osb can flake but its going to take more that couple of hanging garments to loosen any once under some coats of paint.
Sand it down it around 320 grit, and a couple coats of satin poly.
My brother did his attic floor and walls like this for his office/study/hobby area. Made up a big batch of that weathering vinegar stain. Gave it a nice subtle aged grey look. Everything from his floors to the walls are OSB. Floors were treated about eight times with the weathering solution to darken them more than the walls or ceiling.
Once OSB is sanded smooth it feels just fine and doesnt flake. Start with a rough grit to knock everything loose. Dont be afraid to really work through some material to get small cracks and divots. Then work your way down the grits to 320 for a satin smooth finish.
>there isn't one
Sand it from an 80 grit down to a 320 and you're golden. OSB can be pretty fucking smooth if you work it. YES, you'll fill the air with dust, so wear a respirator... But it's perfectly doable and people have been doing it for quite a while including floors which see a lot more wear and tear than a cabinet interior.
>OSB boards to have freedom of arrangement of shelves and hangers later on.
>using glued together wood chips to hold up shelving, and with the intention of moving them around later.
yea, how about you spend the extra $5 per sheet and just get actual plywood? Then your shelves wont fall down cause it was 70% humidity in the garage or just because they felt like 40+lbs was too much.
Sand however you like, well done. Smooth finish. Will it stop it from chipping and splintering? No. It's now more likely to splinter because the top coat of bonding resin has been stripped away. Well done. Enjoy your shitty wardrobe.
I've never once seen a finished floor made of OSB.
The point of using Ply or MDF over OSB is that it's neater, finishes easier, Infact with MDF and most high grade ply you can go straight to primer and paint.
It defies the idea of shitty cheap-o can do attitudes. Yeah. You can do but just because you can, should you?
No. Poor standards are inexcusable over the sake of the extra few pounds you'd spend on something that's better suited to a job.
The desire, or lack of, to want to pour epoxy over structural board for finishing purposes is not comparable to not knowing how to do it.
If I wanted to look like someone broke living on a construction site it may be a possible option for flooring; but otherwise I'll stick to hardwood thanks.
>>I've never once seen a finished floor made of OSB
Sure sounded like you lacked the knowledge of OSB flooring, sorry for taking your comment in the literal sense, I clearly see my error for not realising when you wrote "I've never once seen a finished floor made of OSB" you were actually saying you lack the desire to pour epoxy over structural board.
Again I am so sorry for upsetting you, and if you want to be called princess that is fine by me, I was intending to call you prince.
I just came into say that OSB is used in plenty of new build properties here in the UK for flooring. It'll never be seen because it'll be covered up with carpet, various tile or laminate decorative wood. You've got to put something down.
The cost and quality issues involved in fitting traditional decent hardwood floorboards make it prohibitive. Not even so much the cost, but just because the wood is so crap most of it isn't straight or workable without significant waste and labour. Why bother when it'll be covered over anyway?
Also OSB has benefits over plywood like greater rigidity. It is better at applications where it needs to support its own weight over greater spans with less support for a given thickness.
I recently had to work on the underside of my victorian staircase. It was covered over with old lathe and paster. When it comes to covering it back up I'll most likely cut a groove and slot in pieces of OSB rather than plywood because it won't sag. It'll be either skim coated then or just straight covered in lining paper and painted because it is a bullshit space under the stairs. Only concern is that I'm breaching some sort of regulation about preventing fire spreading between floors, but I'll read up on it.