Got any ideas on how to make this? I'm thinking angle irons and pallet wood. There are benefits I see for this and sex plus just being lazy. But I like this. What ideas do you have for this when making it to make the process cheaper and easier?
I plan on using this in my bedroom or my sister's bedroom as a pod type bed. It's what works for us. The pallet wood would be cleaned up, sanded, and look nice again but the outside would be paneled to look nice.
....why even use pallet wood if you're going to put another panel on top of it? Why not just use decent wood that's not pressure treated with chemicals that would look good on the outside. An 8ft 2x6 is like $3 here.
What's the benefit to a pod bed? I see none other than it seems like a cool idea.
Privacy plus she wants something neat looking if I make this for her instead of for me that'll allow her cat access to the room but not access to the bed to pee on it. Pallet wood is free, wood like what you mention isn't affordable here for me.
Some small things I'll most likely add afterwards is to make a cat tunnel/hidey hole on the front, either a wood or canvas door, LED lights on the inside, possible fans on the top for cooling, and maybe a desk that folds down from the roof of the encloser using one of those wall mounted tv stands.
I would strongly suggest you reconsider. a bed where you spend at least 8hrs a day next to is not a place to gamble that the pallets you got because they were worn out and broken weren't shipped in from 3rd world country where they were sprayed with death gas.
if you need free and aren't in a rush, I would suggest visiting the local apartment complex dumpsters on the weekends and/or any kind of freecycle site like craigslist to look for broken furniture. Given the size of your design, a half dozen tables with broken legs and you're much better off, you don't have to try to glue up and plane down a panel out of pallet wood. busted sofa frame and you've got sturdy hardwood poplar for framing up the edges.
If you're not planning to put anything on top and just want the pod look, I would suggest doing the top half with fabric panels, again easily harvested from a trashed sofa.
generally sofas are trashed once they are worn out, often have scratches in the fabric and smell or worn out springs. cut the fabric you need without the torn patches, and you can toss it in the laundry (which you can't do with a sofa, which is why it was tossed), and you don't need the springs. watch out for bedbugs though, don't take it inside to disassemble do it in the yard.
If I was going to build something like this I think I'd go with box joints, possibly with metal reinforcement. or maybe I'd put a 120 degree v groove in a 2x and glue it onto the outside of the joint.
If I was really tight on space, I might consider this, especially for kids room as alternative for bunk bed. But not just one, like 5 or 6 stacked up, one or two for bed and the rest storage/closet space.
just make sure if you go for tables that it's solid wood (ikea has a few beech tables, so it's not only really good quality furniture that's solid wood) or plywood, not particleboard. Particleboard is... acceptably strong, i guess, but would be very difficult or impossible to anchor well for your project.
what tools do you have access to, btw? I'm guessing that since $30 of construction lumber is out of the picture, you have no budget to get any new tools.
yep. that's what >>939361 was saying. Just remember to pick through to find straight ones without any big knots. most stores wont mind too much if you stack the rejects on a cart (don't just toss them in the aisle), especially if you ask for some spacers to put underneath the pile so they can just forklift it beck into place.
that is a tough one. which was why I was saying if it was me I would try to build it with wood reinforcement. Which would be strong enough if glued. I think they used metal originally because it was designed to be taken apart and shipped and reassembled, so the weight/strength ratio needed to be lower.
You could spring for 120 degree angle iron and screw/bolt that down. or you could cut a 30 degree slot in the panels, probably on the tablesaw.
but if you're using nice solid 3/4in thick panels, then honestly I think you'd be fine with box joints, as long as you don't intend to stack heavy furniture ontop of it. well and as long as you don't make the fingers crazy wide, I'd keep them at 1/2" or less.
Also, the face frame and back panel will really help to support the weight. make sure you have solid support on the inside.
oh, and make sure you pick up some straps to let you really tighten it down in the right shape by strapping it with some wooden spacer blocks. If you want to sell more money, but the tool version of it called a band clamp. (dollar store just started selling ratchet straps near me. not good, but should work)
What I was wanting to do was make each of the panels and use a angle iron as the frame around the wood. That way it's better for fast transport when moving and it's also easy to put together. I was hoping to pretty much have the angle irons framing the wood all around and on each corner. But if I can use wood for this too, I will.
Huh, ok. I would suggest making box jointed brackets at 120 degrees, and gluing them to one side of each panel, so you can screw them to the other.
for the corners, I would suggest dowels glued into one side every 6 inches or so to mate up with holes in the other side, along with a few threaded inserts to receive machine screws.
I would absolutely not use pocket screws or wood screws, those can only be taken out and put back in a half dozen times before they start chewing up the wood too much to trust.
for the brackets I was thinking along the lines of these https://woodgears.ca/shelves/brackets.html except obviously at a 120 degree angle instead of a 90.
I would suggest https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WsgcB8QkkeQ as a jig since you said you had access to a tablesaw.