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Dual Hose A/C conversion (reboot 2)
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You are currently reading a thread in /diy/ - Do It yourself

Thread replies: 7
Thread images: 3
Old thread:

I'll try to keep this one alive so I can actually get some content going. To answer your first obvious question, yes I do realise I sound like an autist that has no idea what they're doing.

Each of the extractor fans is supposedly rated to push (up to) 445cfm through a 100mm x 3m duct (which I guess is probably marketing BS then).

Problem is I don't know how much cfm I need (no documentation), and even if I did I don't have an anemometer to measure it.

The two extractors together push enough air to provide a slight positive pressure at the intake while the unit is running so I figure it's about right.

The purpose of the cooling system is to keep the room cool, the computer will be getting it's own extraction hose in a little bit, but it only spits out about 500w of heat under heavy load. The main problem is that the outside temperature gets above 45C here sometimes which renders the room uninhabitable.

I'm going to make some more tweaks to it and see how much I can get out of it. Cooling capacity on this unit is supposedly 2.6kW which should be more than enough, but in its stock configuration, even running continuously it didn't cool the room more than about 5 degrees ( tested at 35C down to 30C, 38C down to 34C).

With this intake system it cools more like 10C, (36C down to 26-27C).

My goal is to be able to get down to 24C in 40C weather.

Next step is sealing any leaks, adding my custom scoop and insulating the exhaust hose.

I'm considering diverting some of the air from the intake system to the cold side radiator, theory being that I could push the room into a slightly positive pressure, preventing hot air from being drawn from the outside.

Last resort is mounting the whole unit up on the windowsill inside a box.

If that doesn't work I'll bite the bullet and buy a window A/C unit.

I'll try to keep this thread updated when there are new developments.
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1. make sure the condenser is clean, and the evaporator for that matter.
2. switch to metal ducting, it flows more air with less friction. Tape all the joints with foil tape, not duct tape.
3.insulate your ductwork, because youre bringing unconditioned air into your living space, and heat is transferring through your duct material into the room air.
4. room size? LxWxH
5 A/C btu rating?
6. just get the window a/c.

For reference i cool my upstairs master bedroom (12'x12'x10'=1440 cubic feet) with a 5000 btu window a/c. i use a honeywell turbo force fan to circulate the air. and i keep the door closed. it doesnt have any problem keeping the room 25F cooler than outside air.

i apologize for my imperial units, i cant into metric, im too old and set in my ways.
1. It seemed alright when I looked at it, but I'll run some compressed air through it to be sure

2. I don't really want to buy more tubing, but I'll try using foil tape in you think it will help. Do you think it would be helpful to make some kind of joining piece to connect the two 100mm hoses to the 150mm hose?

3. What should I use to insulate it? Fibreglass? Foam? Preferably something cheap I can pick up at the hardware store.

4. Room is roughly 12'x14'x8' = ~1350 cubic feet. It's small.

5. Cooling capacity is quoted at 2.6kW which I believe converts to about 8800 BTU, but I can't into imperial so I could be wrong.

6. That would be the right solution, but it's just not something I can afford at the moment.

A change of 25F is only 14C, ideally I want to be able to have a 38F reduction, from 113F to 75F. In its current configuration I seem to get a maximum of about 18F.
1. if its clean, then its clean.
2. foil tape wont make a difference with your current ducts. and making a plenum box wont help with flow on your current setup, just make sure its sealed where the three hoses join.
3. duct wrap or something similar pic related, fiberglass inside aluminium outside.

your op pic looks like you have black paper taped over a window wall, could you hang a heavy curtain as an insulator? or add an awning to keep sun off the windows? keep as much heat out as possible. if you need 38F drop, you will probably need a more powerful A/C. Best of luck though!
im willing to bet your condenser supply fans are actually heating the room more than anything else. if you cant make sure its perfectly sealed and insulated, dont even bother.
The side facing the window is white corflute to reflect heat and insulate. Black cardboard is just on the inside to block bleed through.
I'm going to open it up again today and see if I can work on sealing it better.
Thread replies: 7
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Thread DB ID: 486641

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