>>936096 Outside lighting? Shunt trip? Why a contactor?
Anyhow, how well would a 1ph 220 motor run on 110? Im thinking it isn't a multi voltage motor, and its a commercial dishwasher found in many bars. I'm not concerned about heat and will probably disconnect the element. Everything else is 110 through a transformer. Also, if I hook 110 up to the terminal block it will put 110 to the transformer. Will this result in 55v out of the transformer? Sorry, no pics. Too lazy.
>>936106 >cheap Well, I wouldn't trust a harbor freight meter, but anything from HD/Lowes that isn't store brand works fine. Home depot has some brown brand meters that work great. I have a klein as my main, and 2 of those brown ones as backups.
>>936114 See >>936112 >southwire from Lowes My only concern with this brand is the one I have defaults to DC upon powering on. I have tested the rest of them, but its only my particular model that does this. I got the one that reads DC amperage, as well as AC amp, continuity, temp, etc.
>>936106 cheap multimeters are the best. seriously, that $10 analog shit from menards works great. I use a fluke at work, what a load of crap. laggy as shit and all those features nobody cares about. I'll take some cheap-ass piece of shit that just tells me the damn voltage and I don't care about breaking over that any day.
>>937100 the dimmer will work fine. you'd just need to keep it always on and use the switches to turn it on and off. multi switch setups use a third terminal called the loop terminal and other gayness. a single light switch setup uses NOT logic (on or off) a multi light switch setup uses XOR logic so that flipping any switch, regardless of the state of other switches in the same circuit, toggles the light state or I guess you could fiddle with terminals to make it work. sorry just woke up can't be too helpful
Hi im trying to hook a wire to plug in the wall to a switch that would to turn an exhaust batroom fan but i need it mobile what am i doing wrong? I hit the damn thing with a resister but ever time i hook it up. Gotta go hit the circuit breaker what do?
>>936069 I looking at buying a house built in 1957. Pic semi-related. The main breaker was replaced at some point and is grounded but the seller does not know when the work was done. The house is mostly filled with 3 prong outlets and has had some lighting upgrades. There are still a few old 2 prongs here and there though. What are the odds that those outlets were grounded properly? If the house is still running 2 wire its a no-go from the get-go and I don't want to waste my money on an inspection. The home is in California, if that helps.
>>936092 They also sell waterproof housing to go over weather resistant sockets.
>>936095 You can but you don't need to. If you want to sell your house later you'll either need to make it a real box up to code or pull the wiring out and just patch the hole.
>>936127 >what the fuck did I just read The $60 Klien DMM at Home Depot is ok, but I've had those fail calibrations at work after two or three years (whereas my 87's last until my guys fry them with 13kV)
>>937095 The problem is you're drawing too much current. Try not having all your lights on at the same time or turning your AC down if you need the lights on. You can also try switching to CFL's (or even LED's but they cost more). if all else fails call a professional electrician to upsize your main/panel
>>938701 Sounds like a short between the breaker and the AC unit. Just a guess. Pull a new run of wire through for that circuit.
>>938736 What load are you protecting with it and how did you determine the size? >Mfw I'm not an electrician
>What load are you protecting with it and how did you determine the size? >>Mfw I'm not an electrician
It's a 20 amp, protecting some overhead lights, outlets, and a bathroom. Nothing that would draw too much current. I got it because it would have been easier to install a breaker as opposed to a gfi outlet because reasons.
>>939006 Only things that come to mind are digital timers or dimmers that would cause L/N imbalance, bad or old CFL bulbs (notorious for wreaking havoc on AFCI's), or a lemon breaker. I mostly do industrial stuff, so sorry for the vague suggestions.
>>936069 So I found a fancy looking toaster on the sidewalk and decided to take it home. It only has a two prong plug which I assume meant it was non grounded. It was also missing a knob which I took as the reason for it being on the sidewalk.
Turns out its a REALLY fancy toaster (like 400 dollars fancy), and it was on the sidewalk because it was recalled for fucking shocking you if you're barefoot on a hard floor.
It's confirmed that it shocks the fuck out of you in the mornings.
Is the fix as simple as getting a 3 prong appliance cord from home depot and grounding the cable to the metal chassis inside?
>>939267 Either that or you could varnish it No but really there is something wrong if you get proper shocks, if its real shocks and you ground it you will just blow a fuse. If its just tingles from coupled charge buildup and you are being a big poof about it then yes ground it will work great
>>939096 It said something in the manual about shared neutrals, so I'm thinking it may have to do with that. I just wasn't sure if there was something obvious I was missing. Thanks for the suggestions.
>>939308 Not OP, and not an electrician, but if you get tired of the union life (assuming you're in Murica) there's a lot of things electrician experience can slide you in to as well. Most of the guys I work with as an instrumentation and controls specialist are ex-electricians or ex-linemen - and they make WAY more money now. Less heavy lifting and more math. Tons of opportunities; you picked a great trade to get into.
This. Or some lazy bastard wired a small load from hot to ground because no neutral. Some electronic switches (dimmers, touch sitches, etc.) need hot and neutral. But old switch wiring is single run of 2 conductor plus ground coming from fixture. So the trick was to put fancy switch in and attach it's neutral to the circuit ground. It works, but freaks out GFCI protection.
>>939681 CFLs last longer, and LEDs longer even than that. If you suspect there might be an actual issue, pick up a digital multimeter ($50-80range) or analog voltmeter ($20-ish) and make sure that your outlets are at a steady 120V (or whatever mains voltage is in your country).
Yeah, I have been replacing everything with LEDs as they go out. There are a few "fancy" bulbs like the bathroom vanity that don't work as well with LEDs but they are definitely better. I will have to check the outlets. I have a nice digital Fluke meter at work I can use.
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