>>931159 I like vernier calipers. You don't have to change batteries, and you don't have have to zero the dial or worry about that spot about an inch and a half up that always skips a few thousandths. Not that I'm trying to start THAT thread either! I like that I have to use my brain a little when I use them, too. I can always stand a little more of that!
>>931155 I like dial. You can rock it back and forth to find high/low spots depending on the shape you are measuring and it is more intuitive to me to watch where the arm bounces back to find the extremes rather than try and interpret numbers quickly.
I used to think they looked cheesy as hell when I saw people wearing them. But now holy crap I use mine all the time. Especially now that daylight savings time made it get dark faster. It'll be like 7pm and dark already. That's not enough time after work to do the stuff that needs doing. I'll just put this on and keep moving/weed eating the grass or whatever needs doing. Bonus points for this one being able to adjust the beam to cover a large wide area or twist to focus the light on one spot. That wide spread of the light though, man I use that setting a lot.
>>931228 I've used dials plenty, still do sometimes, but I've sometimes found myself watching the needle too much, being too smart, trying to break the measurement into fourths of a thousandth, on an indicator that plainly said +/- .001 was its tolerance. Crazy stuff! The vernier scale stops me from doing that and makes me get out the micrometer when I should be.
I maintained a fleet of these and they are fucking insanely nice for grinding, wire brushing and flap wheel use. Great torque, tough as fuck, and easy to fix if you manage somehow to damage one. Much faster than an electric drill and much more torque than most air grinders.
If you work metal or are a mechanic, get one. Used is fine cuz brushes/cords/collets are easy to get.
>>931156 I have one of these, not nearly as comfortable or practical as pic related. Can't really see, but there's an additional square lens kit included, will post in a sec.
>>931194 >don't have to zero This is part of the issue I have with them, actually. If you manage to fuck up the blades or whatever, or if you need to measure an easily-scratched object (by wrapping paper towels or whatever around the blades), you can't zero dial calipers.
>>931237 THIS. My father got me one and it is so goddamned useful in the most unexpected cases. Much easier than a handheld or phone light.
>>931747 I'm just in the early stages of starting a business and I need to drill into stainless steel a lot to make my products. My prototypes I made on my friend's $60 HF drill press and it barely managed, plus it was underpowered so it didn't cut clean either. Do I really have to spend like $400 on a drill press for this?
>>931782 I don't know a whole lot about drilling into metal, it was kind of a first go. I had a brandy new Milwaukee cobalt drill bit, but yeah it was a learning curve doing the drilling. I'd love to be able to outsource it to a real metal shop with 5000rpm cutting machines and coolant sprays and shit, or even just a heavy duty metal punch, but I don't expect to have that big an operation. Sheitte.
Looks like I can get a breddy good drill press (made for drilling into metal) for around $300... but I'll prolly still chew through bits pretty quickly.
>>931794 idunno anon, it's got too many parts. it's too elaborate. 9 different lenses that can be used together and in multiple myriad configurations? i suffer from decision fatigue when it comes to literally everything. i can't even have more than one kind of hot sauce in the house at a time. this is why i play a telecaster instead of a strat, and try to design my builds to be a "it does this one thing but well" sorta thing.
What you need is pilot holes, it would help the "chatter". You don't need a great press. Stainless is tricky to drill regardless of what you use. Keep it feeding. True with any metal but especially stainless. You can destroy the "greatest" bits by lack of feed. (the chips carry away the heat)
With proper feed and some coolant like oil, you can drill good holes. (ignore the brand shills, skill trumps any brand but an excessively cheap one).
>>931811 right, which is why i'm satisfied with my purchase of pic related. one binocualr lens, one flip-down binocular lens, one monocular loupe. eight dolla.
>>931810 funnily enough those are salt & pepper shakers, so small holes were already there, i just made them bigger. it would have been almost impossible for me (with my limited resources) to have effectively drilled without those holes already being there.
and yeah, i didn't use oil or anything, i wasn't sure what i was getting myself into until i started. sadly the drill wasn't super strong or fast so it created long metal windings that spun around and scuffed the surface a lot. plus i didn't have a countersink to use which would have made it look nicer.
>>931794 i have to ask, i have a loupe that attaches to my glasses and its an i think 10x-20x and it gets the job done for me. but im curious about the bi lenses of this thing, what is the focal range? would i be able to put this on and use it as reading glasses (no seriously, if i got this i plan on getting the most out of it)
and that led light, how good is that? when im inside my computer i usually put a small ultrafire in my mouth and get shit done, would this be adequate?
i know that is likely a knock off of something with a name brand behind it, but god damn do these get the job done... if you get one make sure its a 3 mode, the single mode flashlights don't strobe on and off really fast so they are prone to overheating, at least if you plan to use the flashlights like a workhorse, if its just a quick turn it on and find something turn it off, you can get the single mode ones for 1-3$
>>931810 This anon has worked some stainless. What he said x2. There is one other thing that might make your life easier, assuming you're using 300 series stainless: try 400 series. Price might be an issue, I don't know about that without googling it, but I can tell you that compared to 304, 416 is almost like working leaded screw stock. Well... Not THAT much difference, but definitely much easier.
>>931827 I just bought a set of drill bits with the quick release bases. I haven't done much drilling but I've yet to run out of power when screwing. Built a pole barn with it. And I love it for working on my car. It turns a 45 minute job into a 15 minute job.
>>931820 oh looking at the specs they look perfect for what i want, granted the whole review section that says they didn't receive what was advertised is a bit concerning, also, at what lengh do the binocular lenses focus at? are we talking arm's lengh or are we talking up close to my face? because my 10-20x loupe focuses best at around 1 inch to an inch and a half away.
>>931838 idunno friend, it doesn't say. but it does say great for reading. probably works on the standard diopter principle that the lower the magnification the further the focal distance. 1x, 1.5x, etc are probably quite accommodating to reading, probably
>>931842 The impact action of a 1/4 hex impact driver almost eliminates the stripping of screws. Very easy and predictable, the rotational impact keeps your bit on the screw much more so than a drill with a clutch.
>>931863 There is always a time and a place for different tools.
This type of tool design is amazing when combined with the new lithium batteries. You can get so much torque while being easy on the batteries. There is nothing comparable for driving screws, I cant imagine having to drive screws with a clutched drill using Nicad batteries
These are the closest pic I can find to them. Inherited these from dad. Great for stripped screw removal or turning a penny into a cube. Watta grip. 1/2" jaws with an 8" grip I'd search for a replacement if I lost 'em.
Someone here said they were "battery terminal pliers", and I found the pic with that.
Don't need them often, but when I do, nothing else would suffice.
Yeah, technically you could use them as reading glasses I think. I've only really used the more powerful lenses for fine work (removing splinters or inspecting hairline cracks, etc.), but the less-powerful ones might work.
You'd be better off with a small flashlight, the LED on this (the lenses) is pretty weak and doesn't provide much past illumination. Not at all good for fixing / inspecting things.
Focal lengths... 4-6 inches in front of your face, maybe more? Don't have them on hand right now, so can't really say.
I'm not 100% sure if my kit came with loupes, will ask the person who has them right now to check in the box tomorrow.
>>931787 >I don't know a whole lot about drilling into metal, it was kind of a first go. I had a brandy new Milwaukee cobalt drill bit, but yeah it was a learning curve doing the drilling. ... Stainless is a bitch to work with since it will work-harden. Various thoughts... .... Have you tried a tungsten carbide drill yet? A 1/4" stubby carbide drill costs $35 but it is much harder than cobalt. You must use tungsten carbide drills in a drill press (and you must clamp the workpiece down solid!); tungsten carbide drill bits will tend to chip & snap/break if used in a hand-held drill.... .... To cut or drill stainless-steel you must feed at a slow but VERY even speed. It might help to put a single-axis DRO on the drill press to be able to see how fast you are moving it. Look at the igaging or AccuRemote kits on Amazon. These are cheap and not nearly as good as glass scales but they are still way better than nothing. .... You won't get clean nice holes from any single step of drilling. You will need to buff/polish the outside up a bit after drilling.
>>932006 Stainless hardens easily. When it does then it is hard to drill in it. I made a aplle scratter from a stainless piece of pipe, I needed a couple hundred 3mm holes in it for screws. Everything was swell as long as the steel didn't harden. When it did it was impossible to get trough. Melted down some drill bits when it happened just for the fun of it. With friction.
> People insist on spending $200+ on calipers > For home use > Implying half the shit they make is critical to within 0.001" > Implying those cheap chinese ones cant even be repeatable to within +-0.001" > Implying its not your own stupidity for not knowing how to use a pair of calipers
Seriously, if you need that accurate of a measurement, get a bunch of micrometers dipshit.
>>931824 I have that. It's great. I dont know why anyone would do any drywall with nails anymore. I built a workbench out of 2x4s and 4x4s with 3 1/2 inch screws and it'd probably blast the screw straight thru the 4x4 if i kept on the trigger.
Spent $35 and bought a Harbor Freight electric impact wrench. Thing is ugly as hell, has no variable trigger, and is loud as hell. That said, it has saved me a huge amount of time. I'm not the strongest guy, and its saved me a whole lot of effort and time getting the breaker bar out.
>>932603 Yeah it is kinda like that except it's ackchully way cooler. The copperphone is a high-quality moving coil dynamic mic with bandpass filtering to make it sound lo-fi. My mics are actual piezo crystal and carbon granule mics, so the shit's authentic!
>>932668 Yeah it is. I would love to punch the holes but the cup is already formed, so I'm not sure how to go about making a jig or rig to be able to perfectly punch the holes. Laser would be cool too but probably not an option. I gotta keep costs down, and I'm not making hundreds of these fuggers.
>>932754 Well first off, the person was claiming that professionals would be using them, which just doesnt make any sense.
Second off, in my eyes I think they are pretty dumb for a do it yourselfer too. Anyone who owns a hex impact driver most likely owns a regular drill too. Hell most of the big name tool brands have drill and impact combo sets that are a really good price, trying to get you into their brand specific battery ecosystem.
Paying twice as much for lower quality bits, just to use them in a tool that will be slower and give rougher holes?
>>932742 Yeah I'm looking into ways to do this sorta thing. It's tricky though. I gotta find investors so I can bulk order supplies, get proper tools, and have form-fitting foam made custom. This is all kinda overwhelmin ':|
>>932968 mine's actually fukt atm. it bounces from hundreds to tenths of ohms and all over the pale when i touch the leads together. time for a new one methinks. the last one was literally free at HF, so i'll just do that again
>>932661 For drilling lots of holes in stainless, you want a tungsten carbide bit (-and a drill press).
For drilling holes in thin sheet metal, you want a non-twist bit. Any twist drill will tend to grab the sheet and bend it upwards around the edge, which you don't want. (if you notice, the "Unibit" step drills are for sheet metal--and they don't have any "twist"...)
Pic related: some carbide options at Enco, that your local hardware stores aren't going to have. All these are 1/4" diameter.
You can resharpen carbide bits, but you have to grind them (by hand) with a diamond disk on a Dremel tool. Use LIGHT grinding pressure, and grind it outside. Tungsten carbide dust is bad for your lungs.
#1 is a spade bit. These can be resharpened easily a few times but then it gets more difficult, since the flute cut tapers upward. #2 is a single-flute countersink. I think that these would work best for you, but they are difficult to resharpen by hand. Get a 60° one if you try this type. #3 is a die drill. These are easiest to resharpen because they have a long straight flutes cut in them--but then, they cost a lot also. #4 is the last option. You can also just buy round tungsten carbide blanks and hand-grind your own tips on them. It's not that difficult to do.
>>932981 gosh anon this is very fucking helpful, thank you! I'm saving this info. I've learned a lot ITT already but this whole post is stuff I didn't know anything about. So probably #2 or #3 huh? I don't think the $20-$30 is a bad price if I start making 8 of these things a day.
Also, should I try a countersink to smooth out and chamfer the holes or do you think one of these bits (with a proper-rated drill press) will make the holes nice enough to only need light filing? keep in mind that because of the rouned top of these cans it'll be hard to countersink the holes to any standard and consistent depth...
>>931237 I love these. I didn't even buy it. It was a gift. Changed my life. I won't work on a car or take apart a machine without this fucker. 3x better visibility. I don't even care that I look like an asshole.
>>931753 is the finished size of the holes your drilling a common size? have you considered using a shorter length drill bit, or maybe a 4 flute end mill for rigidity. also do you use a backer board of some sort?
>>932984 >So probably #2 or #3 huh? I don't think the $20-$30 is a bad price if I start making 8 of these things a day. >Also, should I try a countersink to smooth out and chamfer the holes or do you think one of these bits (with a proper-rated drill press) will make the holes nice enough to only need light filing? #2 is what I would say to try first, the single-flute 60° countersink. It isn't *really* a drill, but it will work like one in thin sheet metal. Also because it is a single-flute cutter, it will not chatter at all. It will always cut holes smoothly. The spade and die drills are 2-flute, and may chatter especially after the first time you resharpen them by hand. DO NOT buy the 6-flute cutters: many of them are not pointed, and they chatter also.
>>932986 >Maybe I'm just lazy but I usually just hammer nails into sheet metal to make holes Not if you want nice holes, you don't.
>>931723 >This is part of the issue I have with them, actually. ,,,, you can't zero dial calipers. Ummm.... yea, you can. The dial has a plastic or metal knurled ring around it. When you turn that ring, the whole dial face rotates. This is how you zero a mechanical dial caliper.
At any time on site I have 2 drill drivers, an impact driver, two impact wrenches.
Simply because, in the short term it's little time but in the big picture, Fucking about swapping and changing bits constantly ends up losing more time and ends up more frustrating than the cost of another drill.
And hex drills are fucking shit. The only ones I have and use are the trend counter sink bits but the drills in those are Allen key removable anyway.
>>933230 I am so sorry. My head is turning with distress. 2 or 3 forward and once back. I put some oil on and there are chips everywhere. Some would say im boring. I would say that i'm screwing around.
>>931163 Standard's better for machining than metric, just as it's better for most hands-on work. The round figures are more convenient.
A thousand of an inch is almost perfectly the minimum difference in thickness detectable by human senses.
You can call that a coincidence, but if it didn't work out that way, Standard machinists would have invented a unit that was, so it's not a coincidence that this kind of thinking produces better units. Standard evolved to meet the needs of the users while metric was designed by ivory-tower assholes.
Men working in Standard units are the only ones who put men on the moon. Resist dull-minded bureaucratic groupthink. Get with the winning team.
>>933742 Well America isn't leading world industry. China is. Are you saying no other space agency, should they feel the need, not put man on the moon again? Well I'm not sure America would wipe the floor with Russia or North Korea exactly.
Metric is a brilliant system and I really can't see the point in imperial for fine tolerances.
>>933781 i agree with this goy, China / India / Bangladesh etc all those in that area are powerhouses for industry, like 85% of all our shit is made there. Is it necessarily as well made? maybe not, but the quantity sure beats USA USA USA
>>933874 Show me tools with micron gradations because everything I've seen is in hundredths of a mm. Even that is a retarded scale because it implies more accuracy than the tool is capable of so the divisions are usually 0.002mm at a minimum.
>>933507 Whelp I have something very similar but my tripod extension has an extra piece you can extend instead of just the one. The part that points the light where you want them has bent a bit but overall it still works. Can't complain for only $35 a Wally World.
>>933760 >I'm not sure America would wipe the floor with Russia or North Korea
Russia's only dangerous quality is their nukes, a conventional war with them would probably end up the way everyone was expecting Desert Storm, the 1991 vintage, to end. A fair amount of casualties, but ultimately an American win thanks to superior hardware and training. Considering Russia's army has dwindled in size since the cold war, and doesn't have much tech more advanced that what Saddam used against the coalition.
North Korea isn't even worth mentioning, the only two reasons we haven't wiped the floor with them is because China wouldn't like it, and because they pose a moderate threat to the civilians of Seoul. They have, at most, a half dozen low-yield nuclear devices, that are just as likely to malfunction and blow up on the launch pad than make it across the border and hit a South Korean target. They have a snowball's chance in hell of making it across the Pacific ocean and hitting the US mainland. Their most dangerous asset is the huge amount of artillery they've got stashed up in the mountains, waiting to level an estimated half of Seoul before being destroyed by counter battery fire.
>>934079 >the only two reasons we haven't wiped the floor with them is because China wouldn't like it
McArthur had the same idea of blasting them to hell and back and look where he ended up(besides the fact he was shit talking president,(and in general(ha.)being an asshole)) Its not like we were overly friendly with China back in the 50s
My own answer will be Loctite thread-locker. I haven't used it much yet but the little I've used it for (some mechanical pencils where the tips unscrewed, some tools and some bolts on my bike tells me I'm going to like having it.
>>935704 >Knipex Pliers Wrenches The bastard son of Plier, crescent wrench and bolt cutter. They're pretty awsome, really. The jaws stay parallel but because of the way it works compared to a normal plier, the gripping power you get from them is absurd. I use them to loosen or torque down almost everything now, VERY nice addition to the toolbox. I tried to illustrate the lever ratio of both these and more traditional pliers.
>>935833 >well goodluck with your lung cancer i said to do it outside, goober
it really takes a diamond wheel to grind carbide--and how many DIY casuals are going to have a diamond wheel (or go and buy one) for their bench grinder? I'd bet about ummm,,, zero. (pic related)
meanwhile you can get a pack of 5 diamond wheels for a Dremel for like $10, and the dremel is easier to use outside. just make sure the dust isn't getting thrown on you, and the wind is carrying it away from you
Do you just remember that it goes "11 64ths, 3 8ths, 13 64ths"? Do you apply prime factorisation in your head? Why is it not all in 64ths? How long does it take you to put a spilled socket set back in?
>>936226 I don't think I could. It's fairly thick stainless steel. By hand would probably be neater but it would take forever. Each pair of these things needs 28 holes, with the drill press it took me like 40 mins, and I was being rather hasty
>>936667 They're for removing rounded off nuts/bolts. The blades on the inside are oriented so when you're turning them counter-clockwise, they bite into whatever you're trying to get off. A damn lifesaver when you work with idiots who have no clue how to not round of nuts/bolts (and for those times when that shit just happens).
with that said, the binoculars are fantastic, a bit small, would have liked them to take up more of my field of view but over all great...
that said, anything over 4x is pushing its usefulness binoncular wise, you would be better off going monocualr at that point, that also said, 5x 8x and 13x on the monoculars is just fine.
the 20x leans on its own, held up to your eye, that is still usefull, but on the thing itself its just to fucking small
the small end is 15mm, apposed to what i linked above that are 25mm
i just found 3 tripple a batteries to make the led work... the 20x and 28x magnification are quite a bit better with this as the light is able to be adjusted just so its illuminating where the focal point is, even with that into account, i still prefer my clip on loupe.
the led itself, while its not going to win best flashlight of the year it performs quite well as i originally considered it a throw away element.
anyway, thanks for the heads up on this. its pretty nice.
>>934246 the last made in america stamp i have seen is the assembled in the usa on my steam controller.
>>934079 to be fair, russia's tech if i remember right is developed in the university system, not contractors, there is a good chance they are able to match or exceed us, they just haven't had a war to show it off yet. and to top it off, cheaper too.
>>935811 its the little things that you don't realize you need till you need it, like a flashlight, took a while for me to order special ones for every room in the house, very small, very cheap, will illuminate an entire room and throw a beam over 150 yards... the ones i got were 8$ for personal use and 3$ for room flashlights.
a key feature, they take 1 AA battery each.
a knife i haven't found a use for yet, but a box cutter i did. and in that i got a spring loaded box cutter with easy switch blade removal.
>>936366 imperical is at the very least annoying to use and requires more thinking for something that you should look at and instantly know without committing it to memory.
i thought the imperial system was retarded from the first time i ever used metric... metric was just... i don't know, everything i understood, where as 12 inches to a foot, 3 feet to a yard, 5280 feet to a mile... the entire system is fucking stupid.
not to mention the way liquid and solids are measured for cooking.
>>937250 now that its night, i decided to go around the house with it on my head and see how good it was... honestly shocked by how much that one led illuminates an area, its not the AA cree led flashlight good, but god damn does it do a good job.
im actually happy with every aspect of it now, well... still think the 20x is a bit useless compared to the other loupe i have, but still.
now im looking into dual giant ass loupes so i can have a 100% field of view zoom.
>>931322 A horribly outdated style that you should only use in high-fine dust environments. >b-buh muh accuracy Fuck you. If you need better than +-.002 the you shouldn't be using a caliper period. >but this one I bought for XX is better than that! You wasted your money. Spending more than $15 on a caliper is pointless and the extra money is better spent on mics or other measuring tools.
>>936637 >Each pair of these things needs 28 holes, with the drill press it took me like 40 mins, and I was being rather hasty Get a bridgeport or other small mill with a DRO and figure out your hole locations. You should be able to do them in a few minutes a piece now.
>>937388 I like my vernier though Doesn't need batteries, doesn't need constantly zeroing, doesn't have a big stupid clock on it. It's also cheaper for the same accuracy as the other kinds. What do you hate about it?
>>937421 I guess for a hobbyist they're fine, but I'm a professional machinist. They take longer to read and time is money. A second or two might not seem like much, but when you multiply that by a 10,000 part run it adds up really fucking quick. And they shouldn't need to be zeroed more than once an hour at most. Literally the only shop in the dozen or so in this city I know of that uses vernier calipers only does so because all they cut is carbon fiber. Apparently it gets into the gears of a dial caliper and fucks them up royally. Can't imagine what it does to everyone's lungs.
>>937429 It takes me longer to read a dial than a vernier, I don't think I even had two consistent measurements from a digital, even when you lock it down the measure flickers which bugs me. I have only seen cheap digital ones though so I don't know.
>>937437 >It takes me longer to read a dial than a vernier I don't know how, that's their entire point. As for digitals, you basically have to tape off the fourth decimal place for sanity if it's a shit one. Don't buy shit digitals anon.
>>935908 Diamond grinder wheels are bullshit for 99% of bench grinder users. Unless you regularly grind superhard steel alloys or ceramic on a regular basis, a plain stone wheel is better.
Diamond is a scam, because they don't last as long, give a shittier finish than a stone wheel of the same grit, and can potentially fuck with three composition of the metal you're grinding. All while costing significantly more than a stone wheel.
Time for a quick chemistry lesson- Carbon dissolves in iron. What's steel primarily made up of? Iron. What're diamonds made of? Carbon. You know what makes things dissolve faster? Heat. What's there an ample amount of while grinding? You guessed it, Gold Star!
Not to mention that the substrate of a diamond wheel, the stuff that holds the diamonds in, wears away faster than a stone will.
>>937614 >force >with a forstner bit You fucking mong. You need a drill press to keep the hole straight, but you don't force a forstner. You keep the rip'ems low and let the bit do the work, otherwise you get shitty cuts and scorching.
I'm not really /diy/ but my problem seems fairly relevant to this thread, I tried engraving my name on my SAK with a letter punch set and shattered off a bit of plastic, I've used hot glue to put it back in place and used a dremmel to smooth it out, I was thinking of using a soldering iron to melt the plastic back together good idea or should the hot glue be enough?
>>931753 At this stage in your game, do you need to make the front grille hole-y like that? Is it part of your brand? If you need it functionally, could you stick a similarly holed piece of round metal under the mesh?
I mean, it seems like you're some "artisanal microphone mason" crafting fancy-looking bodies with off-the-shelf chinese capsules for hipsters, but I don't know. If you're making your own capsules or using quality internal components, maybe let those speak for themselves a little more before buying all the kit to make it look flashy. The flashy body might work against you with more serious buyers and reviewers, especially if it isn't quite right.
(also, if you do need those holes, please rotate the middle ring of holes to be in between the holes in the outer ring)
>>936230 the romans decided on the 5280 feet in a mile, it had to do with the diameter of their chariot wheels and how many times they went around in a set time period. i think, please correct me if i'm wrong
>>938331 wire strippers are something that I have never bothered to buy. I held out so long that I became incredibly good at just using a knife regardless of the size or strand count of the wire, so now I don't see the need to buy a tool for it. If only I had become good at a skill that couldn't be replaced by a $5 tool...
>>938331 my work has a set of these with a bar across the handles where the spring bit is i think its supposed to keep them closed when not in use but it cant slide past the set screw and even at the bottom it doesn't hold them closed they just spring open.
anyway yes i use this for equipment wire.
i used to use a knife for mains wire but i bought an autostripper and its fucking awesome. strips outer sheath in one click then all the cores simultaneously in one click. not a mark on the copper. still need a knife for the sheath if i need any length of core though.
>>932392 [X] Using 1 tool you have to repair a life time of stuff, each only taking 30 seconds to repair [ ] Driving 5 to 30 miles to the nearest hardware store every time you need to "replace" a threaded-something that has messed up threads
>>938063 >Just cut a slot in it and use a flathead screwdriver Not even close to being possible with most of what I've used them for Also, >dick around for 30 minutes to an hour trying to cut a slot and then fit a screwdriver in or >fuck this is rounded off...change socket to remover socket, remove.
I mean it's cool and all that you know one of the many ways of removing stuck fasteners, but when I'm turning wrenches, my goal isn't the work, it's to finish whatever I'm turning wrenches on. Those things greatly speed up that process.
>>931766 A used milling machine will serve you for a lifetime and as you learn will do things ya haven't dreamt of yet.
Need not be a "Bridgeport" brand. There are a variety of overarm milling machines (get one that takes R8 collets if you can) that will do the job, some are better than a Bridgeport. Visit the Practical Machinist forums for more about working metal and running a business than you'll want to know.
Inquire about having holes laser cut. You need to SELL for a profit. The most profitable approach may not require making every cut or hole yourself. Even professional fab and machine shops outsource work like that because while the machines are costly the price per part if outsourced may be inexpensive.
Hang out on metalworking forums. Always remember /diy/ is a place to learn where BETTER sources of information can be found.
>>938445 Speaking of, always get one that has the blood tracker light or true UV light (blood tracker lights almost always have some level of UV) if you work on cars. Most automotive fluids fluoresce and it can be really, really helpful in locating leaks.
Also, bushnell is king. They are cheap, work well, and to my mind most importantly take AAA or AA batteries and not those damn button batteries.
>>933742 Same. I used to be in love with metric, lived by it, but then I got serious with working with my hands and building things... holy shit, you can just calculate anything in your head in US standard. Fractions of 12 are awesome.
>>938078 Hot glue adds volume, for smoothness you don't want volume. Cyanoacrylate should be more like it. As for stamping your name, you have a Dremel at hand God damn it! You write your name in marker to make sure you get a nice, even "font" and then you take an engraving bit and use that. This is the wrong topic BTW so I'm off topic too...
The specified material to be ground was CARBIDE, which, yes, is exactly what diamond wheels are sold for, almost to exclusivity. You do not use them on steel (or anything ferrous), ever, "superhard steel alloy" or not, for the reason you already pointed out.
If you want to grind carbide you can do it with other abrasives than diamond, for example many weldors sharpen TIG tungstens using a flap disc in their angle grinder or use a conventional bench grinder stone which wears quickly but does the job.
Solid carbide wears lesser abrasive quickly but that's not a bar to using them.
>>938720 Agreed. Imperial is just what people are used to, and there is an enormous accumulation of Imperial shit to be repaired and modified. It's an evil legacy.
Serious mechanics, fabricators, machinists and technicians function fine with either system but metric is easier to use.
Since tooling exists for both a calculator is a handy way to see what drill or reamer will get closest to your desired diameter, and digital calipers/mics/etc are handy as fuck because you can read Imperial and metric on the same device.
>>938722 >If you want to grind carbide >many weldors sharpen TIG tungstens "Carbide" is tungsten carbide, WC, a ceramic material that is harder than the aluminum oxide commonly used in abrasives. Tungsten electrodes are metallic tungsten, commonly alloyed with 1-2% of something else that modifies its electron emissivity. They're hard for a metal but far softer than aluminum oxide.
>>938213 >fabricators >Fabricators Fabricators aren't machinists you twit. And 1/128 Isn't anywhere near accurate enough for most machining work. I don't have a single print with tolerances looser than +-.002.
>>938901 But 1/128 is plenty accurate enough for FABRICATORS. And since FABRICATORS work in dusty environments that can interfere with dial mechanisms, FABRICATION is a professional context in which verier calipers can be appropriate.
>>932642 This (chamfer drillbit) actually makes deburring easier (and cleaner if you get some practise) Btw use cutting grease or oil for steel and to some extend copper. For aluminum use rubbing alcohol.
>>939013 >I was talking about professional and hobbyist machinists, not fabricators who might need better than a tape measure. Your point is still irrelevant.
Why wouldn't a hobbyist machinist not need to measure down to 0.001" if that's the usual standard of accuracy for machining? Most hobbyist machinists will have dial indicators and calipers that go down to 0.001".
>>939123 >Why wouldn't a hobbyist machinist not need to measure down to 0.001" Because most hobbyists make one offs and can simply mate the other part in the majority of cases. In industry when you need all 10,000 of those parts to fit all 10,000 of the others it gets a lot more important.
>Most hobbyist machinists will have dial indicators and calipers that go down to 0.001". I never said they didn't, the anon said he does and he finds it works for him which is fine. And are you implying you can't find Vernier calipers that are +-.001?
>>939013 >I was talking about professional and hobbyist machinists Yes, but talking about machinists EXCLUSIVELY doesn't follow from the course of the conversation. Follow the replies.
>>931154 >absolutely need (dial) calipers >>931155 dials are for plebs >>931159 prefer dial to digital >>931322 prefer vernier to dial >>937388 verniers are for plebs >>937421 why don't you like verniers? >>937429 they're fine for hobbyists, but for professional machinists like me, time is money >>938213 professional fabricators often prefer verniers for reasons >>938901 fabricators aren't machinists, and only machinists are relevant to the consideration of whether dial calipers are better than vernier calipers
At no point was the conversation restricted to machinists, except in your mind.
>>939451 >accuracy down to the micron A micron is .001 millimeters, which is rather smaller than .001 inches. Micrometers (and calipers) that can measure .001" are common and cheap. Micrometers that can measure .001mm are not.
>>936036 lol. It would be retarded to put everything in 64ths. when youre measuring you measure by looking at ticks and if all your ticks are the same length you would have to count 33/64ths instead of looking one tick past 1/2 and mentally knowing that is 33/64
The Communist Gangster Computer God worldwide SYSTEMATIC DESTRUCTION OF ALL STANDARDS AND VALUES (INEVITABILITY of GRADUALNESS). The Computer God decrees by parroting puppet government EDICT upon as unsuspecting brain washed population the new CENTIGRADE and METRIC MEASUREMENT SYSTEMS.
It is Computer God pre-meditated, planned, wanton world-wide degenerative ridiculous confusion and destruction of all standards and values toward ONE WORLD COMMUNISM, for the Over-All Plan, namely eternal Frankenstein Living Death Slavery to explore and control the entire Universe by the Computer God.
The Computer God first imposed it upon the captive populations of USSR, who still resist it.
Now in similar gangster police state tactics, with obvious nationwide objection, the Computer God “BRIBE TAKING FIXERS,” the STAGED CON ARTIST PARROTING PUPPET CON GANGSTERS, with INSTANT Communist Gangster Computer God TELEVISION PRINT OUT PROMPTINGS TO READ TO AN ENSLAVED TERRIFIED UNSUSPECTING POPULATION, namely the INSIDIOUS GANGSTERS the CONGRESSMEN (EVEN THE TINIEST INFERIOR BRAIN APOIDIC NIGER FEMALES QUALIFY AS CONGRESS WOMEN), through the Computer God concocted DECREE, now force these ridiculous and confusing degenerative measurment systems upon the entire United States population.
The METRIC MEASURE- MENT SYSTEM is ridiculously complicated and confusing. It has NO small measurements. It has no inches (based upon a man’s first digit of his thumb); it has no “feet” measurement (based upon a man’s foot); it has no “yard” measurement (based upon a man’s arm’s length). The METRIC MEASUREMENT SYSTEM has nothing to replace these EXTREMELY IMPORTANT SHORT MEASUREMENTS.
Without the Computer God Frankenstein Earphone Radio, NO female, NO Ethiopian “gifted” Niger and NO plain Niger can understand it.
The Metric measurement system destroys all values and standards, even ALL WRITTEN HISTORY and WRITTEN RECORDS. Billions upon billions of dollars completely wasted on degenerative ridiculous and confusing change-overs to the Metric Measurement System.
The Computer God concocted CENTIGRADE TEMPERATURE SYSTEM camouflages the Computer God worldwide completely controlled deadly extremistic degenerative synthetic climate and atmosphere, the new world round translucent gaseous envelope, which the Computer God manipulates through the countless exactly positioned satellites, the new fake phony stars in the synthetic sky.
Unbelievably, the Centigrade temperatures VARY ONLY A FEW DEGREES FROM SEASON TO SEASON. (Ex.: From frozen water ice to steaming boiling water, it is only one hundred standard degrees in the Centigrade system. Boiling water on our own present FARENHEIT Temperature system is 212 degrees). The C. God degenerating extremistic climate, already in 1982, with over TWO FOOT SNOW BLIZZARD along New England Coast and the rest of the East Coast with ONE FOOT SNOW BLIZZARD down to Carolinas, DURING EASTER WEEK. During the past winter, over TWENTY SIX INCHES OF RAIN IN LESS THAN FORTY EIGHT HOURS in the San Francisco area. Last summer, one hundred degree heat in the north west border stated and Sahara desert temperatures, for weeks, in the Pan Handle area around Texas. Each PARROTING PUPPET CONgressman should be awarded a Soviet “One World” Secret Agent Card, as a Communist secret agent for ONE WORLD COMMUNISM.
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