I got some 40 watt four foot shop light enclosures I intend to use to replace some 100 watt incandescent bulbs in my garage. The enclosures have grounded plugs, however light bulb adapters have no provision for ground. I know there are ungrounded plug adapters with a ground attachment point, but I'm trying to do this without running a grounding wires.
Does an LED DC converter need to be grounded long-term?
How about you just do it right? One of these costs $5 and if the boxes are grounded, like you claim, its a 2 minute install.
Or you could just replace the old fixture with a standard outlet. Its probably a standard sized 4 inch box behind the fixture.
If that's the case, yeah, just buy a $1 outlet. You can check for a ground wire by removing the fixture. If there's no ground you're SOL, but it's probably in there and twisted off to the side
this would work fine and easy - onbly replace one part. but for just a little bit extra you could do this - replace lamp holder with plate that holds a two outlet receptacle. (they also make a single outlet version but harder to find and no reason not to go with the double.)
oh... and you'd prolyl want to/need to break off those 'mickey ears' on the receptacle for it to fix in the octo box better.
they also make raised receptacle covers for octo boxes... gives you a little more room for the wires in the box...
holy fuck i can't believe people think american wiring code is worth even wiping your asshole on when they let you do things like this.
op if your light is metal you should probably ground it.
what are you asking about led dc converters for?
are you putting led bulbs in it?
if the entire fitting is extra low voltage (<50v) then you don't need to ground it really, but if you put a transformer inside it you still have to feed it with mains so then you need to ground it.
if you had some of those waterproof plastic striplights then you don't need to ground it because they are insulated.
really as long as you never touch it you don't need to ground a metal one either.
that's fine. did you wire it up correctly so that the ring is tied to neutral and the tip is tied to hot? this is how appliances worked for decades before GFCs became a thing. they were to prevent deaths in the case that an appliance with a conductive chassis broke internally, contacting a lethal electrical point. even then many old two wire appliances simply had the chassis tied to ground so that it would just blow a fuse. either way, GFC protection only stop heart attacks which are very rarely fatal or cause long term damage.
I didnt say they were. that wold trip GFC protection. but if you had an old fuse box you could connect a load between ground and live and get power. that was your original statement that I was agreeing with.
post i took issue with was that you dont need earth because neutral was the same potential
i assumed this meant you don't need to ground an appliance and that neutral and ground were functionally equivalent
I had the same dilemma.
I basically just chopped off the ground leg and plugged her in, so I could control the shop lights with a switch. Mine are the 40 watt LED type and they simply obliterates anything incandescent obviously.
I felt that it was 'safe enough', because there would have to be two catastrophic failures happening at the same time for someone to be shocked.
If you are mounting them high enough that it would be very unusual for anyone to be touching them and you have a modern GFCI breaker like you probably do, I'd just go for it.