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Can anybody tell me what kind of lamps are...
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Can anybody tell me what kind of lamps are these and what current and voltage they run on. Mind the last 4th one, i found out what it is. (they're lamps from old amplifier, sanyo DCX8000k)

Thank you for your time
The one on the right hand side is no Lamp. It's a fuse. You can get the voltage, current, speet from the metal rings. Meassure its length and you got everyting you need.
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looks like baby TMNT to me
Thank you, but i found that last one. It's 6 vold 0.25 A indicator lamp/fuse

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looks like the TMNT origin story bro

I remember you, you're the dude with the amp that has weird wires and fuse holders fucking everywhere. Did you successfully get power back to the top lamp strip? Did the rotary switch end up having anything to do with it?

As to globe types, I usually just measure the voltage supplied to them and hope for the best when I order. Rarely get it totally wrong. I would guess (except the 4th) none of those are more than 6V.
Yeah, how did you know :)
I managed to get power back on the lighting board. Followed steps one anon told me and measured voltage and current from the end point to transformer. Turned out wire that goes in transformer wasn't connected to it at the very beggining (old shit disconnected) so i just reattached it and voila.
also i need those dimensions so i can fit them in lamp slots. Weird but LEDs fit just perfectly. How can i come up with switching filament lightbulbs with LEDs. Do i need some resistors or i can just hook them up?

LEDs without a current-limiting resistor tend to a very short lives; in the seconds.
I have these LEDs, what kind of resistors would i have to hook up if that board is giving away 6-6.3V.
i can't measure a stable current on it. All I am getting is in range of 90-400mA. Why is it jumping nonstop
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4got pic
Lookup LED specs.
You need forward voltage drop and forward current.
To calculate the resistor:
Subtract the LED voltage from supplied voltage to get the resistor voltage.
Vr = Vs - Vled

Using the LED current (same as R current) calculate the resistance with ohms law
R = Vr / Ir

full formula:
R = (V_total - V_led) / I_led

LED V = 3V
LED I = 20mA
Supply V = 6.3V

R = (6.3 - 3)/0.02 = 3.3/0.02 = 165 ohms
try a 220 ohms for more safety or 150 ohms for a little more brightness
how can i look those LED specifications? or are all LEDs the same

where do i need to connect the resistor. on + or - end of LED

Thank you for all this help :)
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>how can i look those LED specifications? or are all LEDs the same
Different colors have different Voltage drops. Probably varies a bit between manufactures too. You'd need the manufacturers specs from wherever you got them.

I think generally the current is about 20mA max for normal LED's

You could guess a R value (guess high) then measure the voltage across the LED for a good estimate.

>where do i need to connect the resistor. on + or - end of LED
doesn't matter
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Don't know what i did, but i didn't touch this part, i was saving it to fix last
now while i was fiddling around on that power circuit, i was moving it and when i plugged it in, AM/FM/mic/phono light started glowing!!!
Is it worth to switch them also, or keep originals
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but i still need to change the pilot light on the needle (that shows radio frequency)
If i get to low resistor, what is the worst that would happen. Will LED blow up or would amplifier suffer damage?
>to low resistor
I doubt that the small extra current would harm the amp. The LED would burn out or have a short life.
Better to use too high value R and suffer from a loss in brightness.
thats a fuse
i know that fourth one, ordered a bunch of them.
refer to >>929648
ok, should i take middle value from measuring?
because voltage is jumping a little
> Is it worth to switch them also, or keep originals

if you mix LEDs and lamps, then the huge difference in brightness will be very evident. no one has mentioned it yet, but LEDs are much dimmer, so they're not a great replacement. the exception is if you use bright LEDs that are meant as exact replacements for flashlight bulbs. you can get these in various voltage ratings, so you dont have to worry about resistors.
are they all in casing like in that picture. Because i don't have any slot for them, i would have to solder them to wires and make some room for that.
Also which one am i looking:
math is here >>929933
although supply V is 6.3~7.3 (jumping in that range)
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that voltage shouldnt be jumping around, as all the lamps are taken directly off the transformer. maybe you're not touching the wires solidly. use alligator clips to bite into the connections if you have some.

schematic here (you may need an account): http://elektrotanya.com/sanyo_dcx-8000k_sch.pdf/download.html
I have only needles, no alligators. also i can't read that schematic. Where does it say what voltage is accross it?
voltage isnt noted coz companies tend to be pricks about such things. knowledge is power, and all that...
i will check it with these LEDs and resistors i bought today. If i get 18mA current on 172 Ohms then it's 6.3 V and if i get 18mA current on 232 Ohms then its 7.15 V
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one way to get more brightness is to put 2 LEDs back to back. this way you use both positive and negative parts of the AC signal.
yes but I'm tightly packed with slots as it is. I would need to connect positive end of one on negative end of other, and isolate them alltogether and then put them into slot in which they won't fit. I will try to tinker with that idea :)

Now i need to think what to do with gramophone. It has 2 ends that look like they're for connecting to battery. 12V 100mA DC current. What you think, should i build it from scratch
for fucks sakes... turns out stereo lamp is giving out 12 volt AC signal... how the fuck do i connect LEDs to AC signal... do i need diode or what?
You can actually get bi-polor LED's if footprint is an issue, they are 2 LED's in one package connected back to back so both portions of the AC waveform gets used.
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Either using a diode in series or a bi-polor LED. LED's are diodes by nature but they can only stand a reverse voltage of about 5v so the extra diode is needed for long life.

What kind of LED's are they, can you post a link to them? Are they just basic 5mm no frills ones or do they have any internal driver circuits.
They're basic white ones you can buy for less than dollar (~70 ) cents. No internal circuitry
In that case just use the extra diode in series, have you got a link to the product page?
but i have to connect negative to positive on that extra LED?
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That's a regular silicon diode in series with the LED and resistor, not an additional LED.

The additional diode is there to prevent the reverse voltage from the AC damaging the LED, which can only take 5V in the reverse direction before damage occurs.

Datasheet http://www.tme.eu/en/Document/66ad86cd4ec5193aaf60e76274b30bdf/LL-504WC2E-W2-2DC-T.pdf

The peak voltage of an AC voltage is much higher than the average value (12v in your case), so you need to size the resistor for the peak voltages too. For 12vac this is about 17v.

The extra diode can be almost any type in this case as it will only need to block low voltage and pass about 20mA, I just posted a 1n4004 as they are very commonly found in just about everything.

A 680 ohm half watt resistor will be more than plenty.
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I made you a real world paint drawing for easier real world components.
thank you for the effort. tommorow i will go to the shop again. It look very compact so i will try it and post results tommorow
Those LEDs should be OK with about 20mA, so something like a 560R or 680R should do the trick.
Is this an old Marantz?
refer to >>929543
>>sanyo DCX8000k
shit, my bad. just saw the pictures and they looked familiar
that is one badass receiver. Is it yours or took it from google?
thank you, it's mine. I swapped all bulbs and fuse lamps for LEDs
It shines nice bright color, Good job. If it's not a hassle could you show us?
and how did you connect them. Using >>930466 method or some other
No problem. Get yourself some heatshrink tubing too, that way you can cover the resistor and diode to help prevent the legs from touching the chassis.

The electronics store might even give you a scrap offcut for free.
Hey man i have a similar model, the 2220. step dad gave it to me it has served me very well. Few of the knobs are a bit wobly but its really swell. I use it for my turntable what about you, CDs?
This is the only guts pic i have, from when i first found it in my fathers barn. For the lights it was pretty easy to find this kit that went for it. Just took some soldering really
Mine's hooked up to my tv in my living room so I can show it off
Show that badboy off man, the lights were all that needed replacing?

what in the fuck was your dad doing keeping it in the barn? unless that was his cave which would make sense. When i think "barn" i think loose wood panels and dirt
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There you go. The LEDs changed it from a dim teal to a brighter blue. And no, I blew a few fuses wiring it up so I had to replace those. My dad bought it new and forgot it in storage at the top of his barn. I found it and he let me keep it.
I don't know about you, but I like this blueish color more. Looks like alien technology that way. Although only thing i dislike about that is horizontal frequency wheel
i like the blue better too. The wheel is like that because its connected to a string pulley system, it feels amazing to tune
mine is connected to string pulleys also and has one extra pulley. Hate that system, nice precise tuning but a motherfucker to replace if broken. I'm being so meticulous trying not to touch that string
yah, tape it up when soldering, if it breaks your pretty much fucked
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