What's a good way for me to build out this small cabinet over the refrigerator to be flush with the pantry cabinet? It would be easy if I was putting a trim panel on the right of the refrigerator opening, but I don't think I will be doing that (nor do I think I have the extra 3/4 inch for it). These are stock cabinets, so a deeper cabinet isn't offered.
regardless, what would be a proper way to mount it like this? the cabinets are pretty much shit particle board, and the corner that lines up with the standard wall cabinets would only be touching at the corner.
They're frameless like this right?
I'd just build cuboid frame out a 2x4s that fills the void behind the cabinet and holds it up. Screw the frame to the wall studs with 3 inch screws and countersink them in some for a good hold, then screw the cabinet to the frame.
You'll also need to attach the the front left side of the cabinet to the pantry. You can use screws that are exactly short enough, but particle board is fragile and it won't get a good hold. You should use sex bolts instead.
Also depending on how your cabinet was attached, you'll probably have to fill holes and put a piece of trim over the gap you might create.
Said frame, you'll have to toenail some screws to build it
Also particle board is not strong, and one corner of your cabinet is cantilever, so I wouldn't put a lot of weight in it. If this sags, slip a block of wood between the fridge and the cabinet that's too far back to see.
I think it will look really bad, at most maybe split the difference in depth with the other two cabinets so it at least steps back.
If you go flush with the pantry cabinet you will attach it through the face frames at the left and that will really support it. Then jig it out and back left of the cabinet, then a 2x4 on the right cabinet. Not sure what you'll do to fill in the gap for aesthetics. Also make sure that cabinet is finished on the right since it is designed to be hidden.
I would leave it though.
I guess it's just me, but it seems unfinished without a cabinet above the refrigerator, mainly because of the presence of the pantry, i think.
Oh, well instead of using sex connectors you'd use trim screws. They are thin so they don't split the face frame. Actually you could probably just use the ones that are holding the cabinet now.
Also like >>929162 said, framed cabinets usually aren't finished on the sides. So the exposed side is going to be raw wood that's not flush with the face frame. If your cabinets are painted you can just paint the side. If you want a flush side, you'll have to cut a 1/4" panel to fit and glue it on.
Professional kitchen designer here - whoever designed that kitchen was an idiot. This is how to do it (pic attached).
Retrofitting will be a hassle but the only way to do it is to reduce the width of the fridge cabinet, by 18mm, screw a deeper side panel on the place of that existing wall cabinet and then pull the adjusted fridge cabinet forward.
The kitchen is also a fire hazard as you have insufficient horizontal clearance from the cooktop burner to the underside and side of the wall cabinet on the left of the cooker.
I should have added that you can reduce the width of the fridge overhead IF the doors are cut and edge style - if painted or vinyl wrap then it's a problem.
You can trim a cut and edge style door down and re-edge it easily.
B... but... it was me. It's my first kitchen and I'm terrible at design. I had a kitchen designed by a Lowes employee and it came out to be too much (I'm flipping the house) so I'm trying to put something together using stock cabinets. My kitchen sucks. Also, it's 18 inches between the counter and wall cabinet I believe, or very close. Isn't that the standard?
i'm not a professional kitchen designer and I'm pretty sure that is not a real thing. but that looks like a very standard cabinet to stove orientation around where I live. Its no more of a fire hazard than say the counter.
Then I apologise - I thought it was a professionally designed one by a crappy professional.
It's not the vertical gap to the burner to worry about, it's the sideways gap. Ideally it should be 50mm or more away from the edge of the burner . If it's an electric cooktop then it isn't relevant - it's all about naked flame fire hazards.
I'm in Oz so regulations are probably different but I've seen gas burners malfunction and put out a really big flame that singed the cabinet to the side of the burner.
Yup - the web based one.
Just FYI, it's bad practice to design up a layout where the cupboard is hard up against a wall. Walls lean in and out and having a filler not only gives you some decent clearance but gives you some leeway for wall issues.
I'd have used a 50mm filler and hung the doors to open the other way. This allows the door to open fully in case the pantry has pullouts of some kind.
I've renovated and flipped a few houses and having a good looking (even if cheap) kitchen makes a big difference but protip: get some colour in when showing the kitchen. I keep bright red and green kettles, toasters etc to decorate the kitchen when I'm doing a house open for a new tenant or buyer. Big bowl of fresh apples on the counter or nice artsy flower arrangement.
Are your doors really like this OP?
They need to be hinged to open the other way. If you havn't drilled from the handles you can still flip them around.
Are any of these cabinets installed? A right side fridge panel like >>929262 would make it look a lot better. But if you have to chop up cabinets to fit one it'll be a bitch.
I haven't bought the cabinets yet. I probably will within the week. I haven't totally decided, but there isn't much to pick from with Home Depot and Lowes stock cabinets. My floors are oak, so I'm leaning towards the white offered by Home Depot or the off white offered by lowes (I like the color more, but the brown in it looks like shit)
I should have taken a picture of the face when I was there. The brown accent looks so bad. I'm thinking about trying to match the paint and paint over it to hide it, but it would be a lot of work and it wouldn't be a proper way to do it.
OP here, as I said, I renovate homes for a living. Would SketchUp be a good thing to learn? It could certainly help with general layouts, but are there plugins that have either generic or specific manufacturer appliances/cabinets/etc. in them to make this easier?
I'm going to have to think about this for another day or two. If anyone is bored enough to help, here is an approximate floor plan. The three brown features on the left and bottom walls are door openings (no doors), and the bottom right of those three leads to a small landing, so whatever cabinet is furthest down on that right wall could potentially be problematic. The sink base must be in front of the right window, and the gas range can kind of go anywhere on the top wall, I might just have to rerun the gas line.
You should go talk to some cabinet contractors in your area and see if they can do cheaper
Makes sense, I mean how could a massive nationwide hardware store supply and install cabinets economically?
Sketchup is incredibly fast and easy
>but are there plugins that have either generic or specific manufacturer appliances/cabinets/etc. in them to make this easier?
Probably not. Manufacturers cut deals with kitchen design software and it's expensive as fuck. They couldn't do that if their catalogs were an open format that you could load in any 3d modeling program.
If you have the exact cabinet dimensions you could make them yourself in sketchup. It won't take that long once you learn how to use sketchup, watch the tutorials on youtube.
Just know that rooms are not square, walls are not straight, and your measurements will never be precise. So plan your install with 1/2" - 3" of breathing room between the cabinets and walls or anything you think won't line up. After you install the cabinets, you measure the gaps and rip fillers accordingly.
The defacto position to place sinks is in front of the window btw.
Personally, if it breaks up your counter space too much, fuck that. But if you plan on selling the place it might turn people off if you don't do it.
I tried the fridge on the bottom wall to see if you could get more counter space out of the top wall next to your range, but it's oppressively large and just in the way of space flow.
Is that a window or door on the right wall? If it's a door I wouldn't put any cabinets down the right wall. If it's a window I'd stop about 16" past it instead of going all the way to the doorway/landing and cramming the space.
Other than that, you probably shouldn't put your range right up to the window. And the way the short cabinet above it terminates looks bad. And if you hang a microwave there it will look even worse. If you can, I'd put a full height cabinet on the right side to match the left, but your fridge and pantry seem to be stopping you.
>What's a good way for me to build out this small cabinet over the refrigerator to be flush with the pantry cabinet?
You get the deeper style of cabinet that's intended to go above the fridge.
Stated you use a filler strip against the wall.
If you want to be able to push the fridge up against the wall look into alternate or end-cap cabinet modules like cubbies or wine rack modules to act as a useful filler that's no more than 6 inches wide so you can push the fridge closer to the wall.
You can fit another cabinet to the right of the fridge. Consider one with an appliance shelf for a microwave.