Alright metal workers, all of you know what a pain in the ass it is to remove one of these from a rusted auger shaft. It could fall right off in less than 5 minutes or you could fight it for hours on end. What is the most effective ways to remove a house bearing from a shaft? I've been tinkering with an idea of using flat bar with slots to insert chains, chains, hydraulic pump, and a plate to insert chains. The flat bar will slide behind the bearing when possible, the chains will be attached to both the flat bar and the plate,and the pump will be positioned between the shaft and plate. Essentially just keep pumping until that mother fucker pops the hell off and keep on going for your day.
If you can use a hydraulic press the press the shaft out of the bearing (assuming it isn't an interference fit), then that'll save you from beating it with a hammer.
If you heat the bearing, try to heat it evenly. It helps to have a partner on this one. Keep the heat moving while your beating it loose. If you can cool down the shaft, that'd help, too.
Worse comes to worst, grind that bastard off of there. Don't cut into the shaft, but grind enough of the bearing away that you could break off the rest with a cold chisel and a hammer.
Thermal expansion. What can I say?
Your idea might work, but it may be difficult to implement due to not having equal lengths on the chain, too many hands needed to set up, ect.
Replace chain and jack with heavy all-thread. Maybe weld a short stub of pipe on the plate to keep it centered on the shaft and have somewhere for some impact with a hammer.
Stubborn bearings - Grind a flat in the race, down to where you hit the shaft (or very close). Makes a huge difference.
-ex machine mechanic
OP knows, and so should you if you have relevant experience, that commercial bearing pullers don't fucking reach down long auger shafts.
>>924041 I love you.
The tip of grinding a FLAT on the race is brilliant and better than the riskier because cannot see to bottom of kerf when cutting with a zip disc. It would be very easy to sneak close to the shaft with a 80-grit flap disk yet not damage the shaft.
I have deep love for 6" cutting disks. I don't try to pull trashed bearings. Torches are nice too, but now I'll aim my disk cuts to leave a flat then finish per the insightful tip above.
Making augers is kinda fun when your auger uses common flyte. Ancient oddball shit can suck to match up.
burn it off.
not worth the fuckabout to save a ten dollar flange bearing.