Does it look good ? or like shit ? Dear Welders, tell me your experience and help me with information to make a better welding. Thank you anons!
Peace and Love upon you!
The seam is beautiful.
Kinda hard to tell, but it looks like the flange weld was a little cold.(looks convex at the part facing the camera-could just be the pic.)
I'm not a welder but spent years in a fab shop.
Lets see the inside!!
As a Union Pipe Welder... I will tell you it's not about looks... I have seen SEXY welds fail X-Ray
Looks like you ran a little hot/went too slow? That color on the left looks troubling(too bright and distinct and far from the weld, huge HAZ). What material is that? Pressure, temp, working fluid that will the piping system will carry?
if that is stainless I only assume it is because you have tape on the flange for purging your welding it a little hot it should be rainbowed.
like what this anon said its not always about looks.
if your welding stainless it should come out like this. (only if its stainless) needless to say your bead is nice and consistent i have seen far worse get sent out the door at work.
Profile and consistency look good (though it could be a bit flatter, especially if it's getting ground). Did you use a rotating positioner? From the ripples, you probably could have gone faster, but it's better to go a little slow than a little too fast. Or do you need more practice with walking the cup to go faster? Your steps look tighter than they need to be unless it's rather thick metal. The inside is more important than the outside, but the weld is pretty good from what I can see.
What's with those spots of junk on the bead, though? Was the metal clean before welding? Did you remove the oxide from the tacks? As hot as it looks like it was, it might not be an issue, but inclusions are bad. Especially on thicker metal, they can be hard to melt out reliably, so it's better to clean things mechanically.
Looks like stainless to me from the mill finish, oxidation pattern, and purge. And while fillet welds on stainless should have a rainbow color and nice ripple pattern, OP is doing a full penetration groove joint. Those are by necessity hotter and slower, so dark oxide is normal. And the ripple patterns in your images indicate cool puddles that are good for filling in a fillet quickly with minimal distortion, but which achieve very little penetration. Exactly the opposite of OP's situation.
I've been a welder now for 5 years and do TIG, MIG and stick. From what i can tell i think you should spend a little more time cleaning the area that is going to be welded. I say this because i can see those black dots on different places on the weld. Also i think your heat input is a little high, try welding a bit faster or turn down the amps a little. otherwise it looks good to me, nice uniform weld. keep on burning!
hi weldbros, how feasible is it for me to get an internally threaded m8 rod welded to the scotch yoke of a jigsaw? I want to adapt the tool to accept a bolt instead of a jigsaw blade.
I figure I can just disassemble the jigsaw, remove the yoke and get someone to weld on a threaded insert or some such thing.
its for connecting dildos. my previous method of just covering a jigsaw bit with epoxy and fitting to an adapter doesnt work well.
Plenty feasible provided the materials, setup, etc. is in order (be careful with any plating). The threads will probably oxidize and warp from the welding, so if you need to engage the threads near the weld, you should run a tap through it after it cools.
this seems like a job that doesn't really need precision, and the zinc-aluminium-chocolate alloy they've probably used to reduce the tool vibration is pretty much unweldable.
so, weld a stack of nuts to a sawblade and see how far it takes ya.