>questions that dont deserve their own threads
my question is:
how small can i make a hydrolic ram pump? i would like to make a very miniaturized model to test some concepts, but im concerned that the air pressure in the compression tank will never reach a decent pressure. im talking several cubic centimeters of space in there, a few inches tall.
Anyone ever deal with a dog who marks his territory in the house?
Here's the deal: My dog is about 5 years old and was fixed when he was young. A year or so ago I took in a friend's dog while she was unable to care for him. Friend's dog began marking a couple spots in the living room (I'd clean it up as best I could).
That dog is now gone, but he taught my dog how to do this. The two spots are on the corner/leg of an end table and on the corner of my bar.
I recently purchased Nature's Miracle enzyme cleaner to try. What I did was spray/pour the cleaner on the location then cover that area with plastic and plastic bags /duct tape to keep the area wet so the enzyme could get down into the carpet (and wood).
During the 2-3 days I was allowing the area to remain wet with the enzyme cleaner I noticed that my dog was still peeing in both spots! (the plastic on the floor next to the end table had obvious fresh urine on it and the bar that they previously peed on is separated with carpet on one side and linoleum on the other so the urine was also quite visible.
Is there something I'm doing wrong? Do I need to repeat this process and keep my dog away from these areas until they're completely dry before letting him back in?
>how small can i make a hydrolic ram pump?
you can make them as small as you want, really.
here is an example of a cheap cable cutter/swage that has a built-in hydro ram:
it sells for $30 - $50 online
most hydraulic parts are rather large because they're built for tractors.
if you want to build a (relatively) small / low-pressure hydraulic system, one easy way is to use pneumatic cylinders instead.
These may need the o-rings changed out, but those are usually standard sizes.
Also note that most pneumatic rams have maximum pressures of only 200 - 300 PSI, where normal hydraulic equipment is 2000 - 3000+.
if you are in the USA, this place has a bunch of pneumatic cylinders that are pretty cheap:
I need something like these acrylic "vase fillers" but transparent black (or grey). Can be glass, don't want them to float.
Pic related is typical for some reason, all the colours are transparent except for black, everytime.
Has anyone tried mixing plaster of paris with superglue or epoxy? I'm trying to cast something a bit fragile.
Pic unrelated but still cool
Just tried it, failure.
Added the water to the plaster then added the superglue, it just solidified instantly into a stringy heap. I guess I thought the water would slow the reaction right down but I guess just because superglue is a liquid doesn't mean you can dilute it in water. Oh well, I learnt something.
Any tips for working with copper rivets?
I wanna change the speakers in an old pair of headphones like really really went to the moon and back AKG 1969 headphones. The speakers are inside a metal case closed off with brass and copper rivers. I can cut the rivers off with a cutter no problem. But will I be able to close them up again? Any tips on how to git gut with rivets?
Yes, some fungi such as pestalotiopsis microspora can do this. The fungi is from Ecuador but if you've got a decent university nearby, you might be able to get access to a sample. This depends entirely on which country you are from as some countries have very stringent controls on releasing possible pest species into the wild through incompetence.
have never seen him in the act, but have said something after the fact (harsh voice, pointed) and he cowered and walked off. I have put his nose in it before. I may have to get rid of the end table as it's wood and has likely soaked in too far to completely remove any smells. It's not a fancy place by any means so I may do something with the bar too, remove the exterior wood panels and replace with wainscot or something similar (my furniture doesn't match anyway lol)
I'm running a 2nd router out to my shed, would anybody watch a live stream of me just fucking around in my shed? Are there any streams like that, I'd probably leave one on in the background.
Is there any way to give this lamp a dimmer switch? Hole is about 3/8"
Probably a knife if the screws are hidden.
Call it the cuckshed.
A girl I know said she wanted me to get her a Christmas card (she lives in another state for now). She also said "with sparkles." I thought about buying her a card but I have some card stuff leftover from when I made a Valentine's card for my ex-girlfriend five years ago.
She likes space and whales, so I figured I could do something like that. Not sure how to work in the sparkles, or even where to get sparkles as they're not something I regularly use (or ever use). Is there any way to make something like sparkles? Does anyone here have any ideas at all because I legitimately have nothing.
should be good. the issues isn't really the air pressure, as long as the compression tank is sealed, you'll keep getting pressure spikes until it's pumping the water up. the real issue is the flow rate, and adjusting the pulser valve. adding more weight (or spring power, depending on it) increases the pressure spike of the water hammer effect. The compression tank is pretty much there to smooth out the pressure spikes so it won't burst, as long as the flow is there, she'll be all right.
Generally you can get somewhere from a 4:1 to a 10:1 lift to fall ratio. That's more important than the size of the pipes or the throughput.
hydraulic ram pump is a water powered water pump. it uses a water hammer effect to function, hence called a hydraulic ram. it is not a hydraulic press or clamp, those are totally different.
Fill the inside of the card with glitter. Peak as much loose glitter in the card as you possibly can.
Don't send it overseas or she might get an angry letter from customs as well as a card with no glitter
I have a binder similar to pic related; the plastic has a lot of scratches and I'd like to get a new one. Is there a way to switch the cardboard/image within the sleeve to another?
I have a heater that I want to disassemble and clean, but it has three winged screws, they're deep as hell and I've tried all the things I could. Unscrewing them is not an option.
There's a grid in the upper part of the heater, where the fan is. I'm thinking about tickling it with a wire bit to loosen up the dirt and remove some of it with the help of gravity, then get a vacuum cleaner for the rest.
It won't be perfect, but I'll save myself buying special tools or trying to make them myself: I don't have many options.
Is this a good idea? I also have a huge leaf blower. Would that work better? Which safety distance should I keep?
Thanks in advance!
I'm not sure you can without it falling apart but you could take a razor around one edge, pull the old one out and put a new in, tape the edge with some black tape or something pretty and call it done.
Yes this is fine to do. They're built tough generally and nothing should come loose from just a vacuuming and dusting. In fact do it now. Its more hazardous to let the heater stay dusty.
The leaf blower might be too much but I doubt it.
It depends on how its sealed.. you might be able to just cut the plastic and slide the cardboard out of it and put it in a new binder.
Im sure that would destroy any "colector value" or whatever that might be left.
The paper/cardboard might also be fused to the plastic and might not be removable. if its sentimental then I wouldnt screw with it.. if you just like the insert Im sure you could just print a new one off of the internet
Anyone know what this extra bit on my sprocket is?
I have a feeling its to catch the chain if it slips off the sprocket.
Off a honda magna 1996
can anyone estimate/does anyone know how many amps a 12v 18ah battery like this can provide to a small engine starter? its starting to melt my shitty lamp cord ive been using meaning its undersized which would also explain why it doesnt seem to have a whole lot of cranking juice.
Huh. Well I really don't think it's giving all 300 because its only melting at the battery terminal and its takes several seconds of starting to start melting, and this is like 14/16 gauge wire were talking about. It's a little gx200 starter so I can only assume it's only drawing like 100 amps or so but idk.
Don't suppose you know of a way to calculate the amps the starter pulls or is capable of pulling do ya?
How do I get a job at a factory without going through a temporary agency? I have 5 years of factory/parts assembly/quality inspection experience but no one ever hires me. I admit I'm only 23 but I have sent out millions of dollars of high end products I assembled by hand for the military/Toyota and couldn't even get a job at a faucet company.
I want to make more than $10 an hour and get benefits.
This house has an old squiggly mid century wood plaque that had rotted long ago. What's the best way to cut a new piece of wood, what should the wood be and how do I prevent it from rotting?
Pic related shows the old outline of the address sign
... Hey I need to make oxygen. Doesnt have to be super pure. Just needs be like 75% pure. Im making a super tiny butane torch for soldering silver chain links. I have the containers and nozzel all built. But I don't know how to get an almost pure oxygen and compress it into the little tank I made for it. Its only suppose to be like max 8 psi.
The torch is VERY tiny so it doesnt use tons of gas. And is suppose to sit on my benchtop not be very portable.
well, hate to break it to you, but unless you have a bead on a used oxygen concentrator (like the kind used by geriatrics and morbidly obese fucks who are too fat to breathe anymore) your best bet would be to go to a plumbing supply or a big hardware store and buy a plumber sized tank of oxygen. They're sold with the propane torches, and the tanks are that same size and profile, just red instead of blue or yellow.
adapters can be had that hook that kind of bottle toregular pipe, (with a little looking) and if the torch is really that small, you'll never go through it all.
Yeah I couldnt find online if homedepot or lowes or ace sold anything like a spare tank. That's fine if I can find one instead. I don't have to make it. And yeah its pretty damn small. And I only need to mix the butane to like 4 part butane to 1 part oxygen.
> Hey I need to make oxygen.
Just buy it. It's not exactly expensive (the container costs more than the oxygen).
If you're insistent upon making it yourself, the easiest DIY method is electrolysis of water. Not efficient, but in the quantities you're after, that doesn't really matter.
The main industrial production method is distillation (i.e. cooling air until the oxygen liquifies at -183C), which isn't really practical for DIY.
Most of the other common oxygen production methods (e.g. emergency oxygen generators for airliners) involve catalytic cracking of oxidisers, and a random guy trying to buy oxidisers is probably going to end up with some counter-terrorism agency kicking in your door.
Can some anons help me out here?
I'm a poor fag with some old sand paper, manual tools, some small screws, and shipping pallets.
How can I make money with this? Cut up the pallets and make small boxes? Maybe a dog house? Perhaps some chairs? I'm not sure where I can even sell this stuff, local CG? I live in a shady area. Posted in wood work thread too. Thanks in advance.
Maybe a table...I've done this kind of stuff before just not for monetary gain so no idea what to do.
How do I detect if an Xbox One is on or off (so I can switch the input to my one-input AV reciever)?
360 had a 5v line on the AV port that went high only when the console was on. One doesn't have an AV port.
I was thinking either:
- a microcontroller with a clamp ammeter
- a passive TOSLINK splitter and a microcontroller with either a photodetector (if the link actually goes down when it's off) or a TOSLINK receiver (if the link merely goes dead but stays lit).
Frankly, the clamp ammeter seems to have the most legs, but does anyone know of an easier way I haven't thought of, or a cheap source for a clamp ammeter? Doesn't even need to be calibrated, as all it needs to care about is full-on vs standby.
I have a 7 foot fence with a huge padlock etc but someone jumped it by putting the neighbors garbage can in front of the gate. I'm pretty sure they didn't get too far since my dog was out back and nothing was fucked with but the can was moved in front of the gate again the other day. Everything is locked pretty well and I have motion lights up and the street light is right in front of my house as well but if anyone has any ideas on how to keep them from hopping my fence I'd be grateful. Also I already have a few guns but I'd rather just prevent the attempted break in.
I see a lot of pallet furniture on craigslist that looks pretty good, specifically this table which the dude sells for $350 somehow. It should be pretty easy to make a profit on since the wood is free.
Don't think so but I looked some stuff up and I'm pretty sure I will get sued if they get hurt on my property. I might as well just leave the doors unlocked and keep my gun ready.
I didn't see the person that hopped the fence or I would have. At this point I'm thinking about getting some cameras since I'm fairly certain it's one of my neighbors.
This is the front glass from a wind up clock. It's fucked. Any way to unfuck it? Google results are clouded with watch repair tips, perhaps because this is too hard and there is nothing much to be done for clock glass.
I have no idea what happened here but the rest of the clock is in great condition, if I can dig out or fill these scratches i'd be pretty stoked. Halp?
Damage from being inside something for storage perhaps?
The basic methods would be to either polish out the scratches or fill them with something clear (like clear nail polish) that fixes the distortion making the scratch so noticable. Neither work terribly well if the scratch is deep enough to be felt (by dragging a fingernail over, for example)
> Damage from being inside something
Or transported 5000 miles while wedged against a brick wall. It's got a decent dent on top as well. Had a rough life but still good for +/- 2 minutes over 7 days after a clean and align, kinda pretty looking as well. Worth the effort IMO.
> fill them with something clear
Thinned, layered clear coat was going to be my first go-to, if the result is shitty acetone/other stripper will erase and I can try again. The few clock related guides I found suggested nail polish as well, so I guess I'm with you at this point. Do we know if 2000 wet//dry scratches glass? Results are mixed on this one and i'll need a way to run the varnish back level to the glass.
> deep enough to be felt
I'd estimate them to be no deeper than .3mm, but as scratches go they're the Grand Canyon. Anything will be an improvement at this point.
Watch faces would be harder then regular glass. As watch faces are sapphire. At least any decent watch face.
As far as unfucking it.. If you look up gem cutting resources. They sell diffrent grits for lapping. Comes in powers. Betcha with some of that stuff and some microfiber cloths for each grit. You could manually work them out. But you will spend like a total of 4 hours doing so.
So painted a few layers of clear coat on, wet sanded it back with 3000 grit, polished it with vehicle scratch remover. Looks.. less shitty. From afar it looks loads better, but far from good. Missus has no clear nail varnish so I'll go buy some tomorrow and retry with that in case it makes a difference.
This appears to be the way forward anyway, turns out even 3000 will leave scratches. I should have tried #0000 steel wool. Your suggestions led me to some good info on polishing at least, cheers mang.
The idea was to do it without voiding the warranty, but thanks for the ideas.
If I were going to do it that way, I'd tap the PWM or sense from the CPU fan, because the fan only runs when it's "on"-on.
Turns out you can make it emit custom IR codes when it switches off and switches on, so an IR-blaster, an IR receiver module, and a microcontroller should do the trick.
(For more fun, it's double-insulated and has a floating ground. An off-the-shelf IR receiver demodules the signal and provides isolation at the same time.)
I picked up a drill press the other day,need to make it its own stand.
Work shop layout is a bit cramped, wondering if mounting on casters is worth it or will it just overcomplicate something simple.
this is the plumbing for my downstairs sink. the soil stack is highlighted in red.
when I run the dishwasher or dump a large amount of water through the kitchen sink upstairs, the downstairs sink bubbles up some gross sewage gas and water backs up into the sink bowl.
the downstairs sink never clogs or slows when I run water through it, only when the water comes from upstairs. I've run draino through the system, but it doesn't fix anything.
What can I do to fix this?
what the fuck
is that steam pipe exhaust looking thing?
i would rip out everything in the top picture and start again.
fuck draino, go outside find a rodding eye or manhole and rod your drains properly.
guys, i made myself a Fighstick out of a xbox360 controller and i wanted to add some light up buttons to it, but i was wondering, from where do i draw the power from? does it work if i solder the cable for the button AND the led cable in the same pad of the pcb?
There are some pretty bright people over at
paradisearcadeshop (google it)
Browse some of their goodies, maybe even send an e-mail and let them know what you did. More times than not, either one of the two manager(s) will respond within 2-3 days with an answer to your question.
Just remember to note the following:
• What size button(s) you're using
• What you'd like to light up or glow
• Per press, or constantly lit?
There's a number of silly ways to go about it, but if you ask those two, I don't see them steering you wrong. They sort of have a fetish for making things glow. Hope it helps!
I have a few (somewhat retarded) questions to those who pick stuff from recycling centers: how do you do this? Like, do you just go there / call them and ask if they can let you in to dig around their storerooms? Do they give stuff for free or do they ask you for money? If so, how much typically? What good can you get this way and what is off-limits to ask?
I have been dumpster diving for electronics before and found some good electronic devices that I fixed for tiny fraction of the actual price of the device itself (like five blown caps in otherwise perfect 19" monitor), however more and more electronics here (Central / Eastern Europe) are being thrown into special bins, which are always in sight of security guard or camera and it's almost impossible to fish anything out of them due to their construction (pic related), so I'm looking for new sources of devices to reuse or repair.
Hey guys, I just got an old satellite dish like pic related and was thinking about turning it into a focusing mirror for solar thermal experimenting. What would be a good reflective paint / shiny metal to coat the dish in to get good focusing power?
Also can I reuse the receiver thing for anything ? Maybe by building a regular antenna instead of a bowl?
For a long time I wanted to make a replica of the head of IG-88, preferably with metal if possible.
What's the best way to about it? What should I learn?
any ATV riders out there? I'm looking to invest in a decent set of mud boots for riding. Right now I wear the cheapest and most readily available ones which aren't insulated and aren't very tall so it's not uncommon for water to come up over and into my boots, making for a cold ride! These have good reviews but I can't imagine how they're water proof all the way up with that foam-like upper portion...
Hey DIY, sort of /g/ related but hoping you can help me out
I want a monitor arm for my array of monitors. I'd like a clamp because it's usually more secure and allows for a wider range of motion and movement without the possibility of tipping like a normal stand does.
The problem is the desk would need a monitor clamp with about ~5 inches of clearance. I've looked and I can't find a clamp that's that wide. Is there some sort of DIY clamp I could use with something like this?
I would just drill into the desk, but I'm in the military and in government dorms, desk is government property so I can't really alter the desk in any way.
Where can I get sheet vinyl that isn't this fake stone garbage?
Do they even still make such things?
i figured somebody would suggest those. But unfortunately I think those might be a bit much. I'm strange and like to wear shorts when I ride (even though I run the risk of burning myself on the engine). I may pull the trigger and get the boots I posted, Muck boots, the reviews are pretty good for waterproof, comfort, warmth, etc. I could always get another cheaper pair for summer riding. I just hate hate hate having cold feet in the winter!
>Printing alternate labels for N64 cartridges
I have this copy Multi Racing Championship but I want to replace the sticker to a better game and put it on display. Are there any services that'll do it for cheap or will I have to use a printer?
recently restored my gameboy pocket too
So I'm looking for information on electric motors, specifically the engineering theory on brush and brushless DC motors, I've found some information but not much. Mostly about small applications like drive trays on computers and RC motors.
I'm looking for design information I'm leaning to a Lynch motor or something like it for my project, however I would have to attempt to get a license for his patent.
Any insight would be most helpful
You can print on adhesive labels with inkjet printers. If you're getting it done elsewhere, you're going to want to look for a vinyl printing and cutting service, specify that you want it adhesive backed. It'll probably be moderately expensive for a print that size, minimum order is usually around $20-30 worth of print.
Alright.. So I'm looking for an epoxy and super glue that dries clear and without bubbles. Doesn't have to be fast curing or anything. I'm trying to refinish an old fiberglass fishing pole. And the pole supply places are charging wayyy to much for their "fancy glue" and I know a 8oz bottle doesn't cost no 27 dollars.
But the loctite CA stuff from the stores dries kinda hazy cause I did some test pieces on a stick with fluro green and a shiny silver threading. And did not look good at all.
So what should I look at?
just normal resin, once its dry, you can sand and paint it, boats use resin all the time and you dont see them cracking cause of excesive heat or sunlight...they do crack over time...but we are talking a couple years of direct sunlight
I'm just starting a course on electronic interfaces that requires me to get some parts. Just to double check, any amps I buy can't be a surface mount if they're to be used on a breadboard, correct?
I'm building one right now. Only need to get one last gasket.
Pressure cooker for the chamber. 1/2 inch acrylic for the lid, brass fittings. I got a vacuum pump in a trade. It's in decent shape and is bigger than I need.
any of you guys have experience with hepa filters/air purifers? I've noticed a lot of dust in my home and my vacuum can only do so much to remove it (it has a hepa filter). Today after I vacuumed and cleaned out the waste bin, I removed the foam "filter" and washed it out and boy was it dirty! I figure the hepa filter will be too (it's never been cleaned!). Since I have pets, I was thinking of getting an actual purifier to help knock the level of dust and whatnot down. Recommendations? I'm kind of a poorfag, but I'd gladly spend ~$100 or so on something if I knew my health would benefit! Thanks DIY!
Hey guys, I figured this was the most appropriate board to ask this.
How hard is it to construct a small table that is sturdy and would last a good while?
The reason I ask is because I have a small room and I'm going to be putting in a computer so I need a desk for a monitor, keyboard, mouse and maybe some small miscellaneous items, but I have to put this table in an awkward small corner of my room. I can't find any tables that are built for this size and any proper table is just too big.
So I figured, with some wood and some plans I could probably just try to make my own.
I already sketched some rough plans, hopefully it would be 32" by 20" and about 32" tall.
Am I completely oversimplifying things, or is this a reasonable project for someone with basic skills to undertake?
I figured I would get the wood, make a box frame for the table part, and get square legs to drill into the frame, sand it, treat it, then paint it.
I don't know what kind of pictures you guys like, so have this cat.
Can I /diy/ search my yard for oil? Or coal? Or some of that other good shit. Gold man. Any method better than grabbing a shovel? I'm ready to grab a shovel though. I'mma get out there and dig to the middle of the earth man. Everything is fair game. What's the fastest digging method?
Not hard, but you could also just mount a nice board directly to the wall for maximum space saving. Depending on where you live simple glass desks are usually pretty cheap, sub 50 bucks.
So getting a laser cutter soon. Where are good places to get acrylic, wood, MDF, and leather at good cost? Particularly acrylic seems to vary in cost a lot, can't seem to find good sources of plane sheets of these things for lasering in mind.
see if there are surplus stores near you. theres one near me which sells scrap / assorted peices, you never know what they have, and its not sorted, but i can get 2'x3' sheets of plastic thats 1/8 thick for a dollar 20 cents each. thick acrylic is less than 10 dollars.
mdf is cheap at HD / lowes, but might also be at lumber yards cheaper. leather you can get online cheap.
Thank you. I'm near a HD and Lowes. I don't know what I would be looking for as far as a surplus store would go. Trying to get a little business off the ground so would those be a consistent place to get acrylic if I can find one?
yeah, theres plastic stores that just sell plastic, but a surplus store is going to be as cheap as you can get.i would talk to both.
surplus stores seem to be small and friendly, im sure if you become a regular in there you can ask for other sources, or where they get their scrap from. or see if they can set aside certain sized pieces for you if you pay a bit more
Cool thanks. Did a little search and there may be a couple not too far away.
I know getting started I'll just need small amounts, but if it takes off I know I'll need those various materials by the sheet. And the better deal I get on them the better I can price things. Work bed is only 12x20, but I can always cut down large pieces with a saw first.
Hopefully it grows. Love making things, and I can't take too many more years of being a corporate sell out
yeah, and depending on the bed design, you can cut holes in the case and extend the material though the holes. just have good shop ventilation if you do that since the built in ventilation port might not be enough.
always check if the plastics are laser safe, no one wants to burn a mirror, or get nasty plastic headaches :)
yeah, that wouldnt be fun. if its any concolation, you could get a half face resperator with acid gas filters, some swimming goggles, and a good vent fan and be fine... but i wouldnt chance it
Nah not worth it. That stuff is deadly. And its corrosive so it would eat away at the device too. Easy enough to avoid PVC and pleather. I do wonder how many machines I may eventually need down the road to be a legit business.
>Need to make this flange or something similar
I'm trying to put a somewhat inconspicuous lock on one of the draws in my bedside table.
The pic probably doesn't explain much, basically it's just going to have a pin that goes with it, pokes through the side of the table and into a hole in the side of the draw to keep it in place, with a hole through the side of the flange and the pin so you can put a little pad lock on it.
The base of the flange will be on the inside of the wall of the bedside table and all that will be visible from the outside will be the last inch of the pipe part of the flange and the lock.
As for scale, I guess I'd like to pin to be about 10mm dia, and the base has to be somewhat thin because I'm going to route a little recess for it. The only certain measurement will be the length of the tube so it goes all the way through.
Short piece of threaded pipe and a flange.
Guess the botnet has it's uses
>knowing what I was trying to type
That should do well enough, Are they just an American thing? All the listing are from the USA and they want 10X the price of the item just to ship it to Australia. I'll have a look around some hardware stores anyway.
Pretty common here, even most small hardware stores carry them.
Maybe you use a different standard.
No idea what NB is
tl;dr : how to thermically insulate doors, cant change them
my house has big doors that leads to a balcony. These are made by a wooden frame and glass. In winter i feel that i'm leaking heat through that doors. How can i improve that? I was thinking about rubber sealing borders, but i could really use some suggestions here
How feasible is it to carve a small table from a solid wooden log? The pic shows the general shape I want, although I'd have the legs flush with the edge and the whole thing slimmer and taller.
i was thinking about pic related. They're cheap and easier to apply than rubber ones. Any suggestion on how to install these?
I'm trying to find resources on those little pull-out bars that support the writing flap on secretaries, but don't know what to call them to start the googling process, can anyone help me out?
Sort of doing some basic wood work as a hobby that doesn't involve sitting in front of a computer. Built a rustic looking ammo chest with a dull chisel, a shit-tier (harbor freight) skill saw, a hammer and a drill.
I see Sears has their Craftsman 7.25in sliding Compound Miter saw on sale for $119.00.
Worth a get?
Have you ever glued a couple popsicle sticks together?
Bent a paper clip into something useful?
Watched the Red Green show?
Used a screwdriver?
We're generally not elitist here.
Anyone else think this general has made /diy/ less interesting?
I mean, this is a slow board. We don't need a general. It makes the rest of the board more /pro/, fuck that.
Some of the best threads start out as simple questions and now they have a short life in the general.
This general needs killed IMO.
What do you think /diy/?
I see your point. I've asked Q's in the /g/ general that I wouldn't start a thread for, but we're much friendlier and forgiving than /g/.
I have a wide variety of experience and come here to answer Q's. I rarely follow this general.
If I used a bolt to attach my ground clamp, would the threads weld themselves together?
Nope, not providing you made a good connection.
Make sure the crimp lug makes metal to metal contact with the work piece as most bolts have a relatively high resistance at welding currents, a non ferrous screw is preferred.
I'm making a kotatsu, a heated Japanese table that you sit under in winter.
I need some help finding parts for making the tabletop removable and putting grommet type things in the blanket, I know how I want to do it but just need help finding specific bits. You know how the thing you want exists but you won't find it unless you know the actual name for it.
Usually the table tops aren't held on by anything, they just sit there on top of the blanket, but I felt like doing it a little better, so I want to have metal dowel/pins that go from the legs, through the blanket and into the table top to keep it centered and stable.
I originally thought of putting regular grommets on them but I hate dealing with fabric and just want a completely permanent solution, so what I was thinking was pipe that's threaded on the outside, then huge washers either side then those really flat nuts to sandwich to the blanket
>1000 hours in ms paint
The parts I need help finding are the threaded pipe, 1/2" pipe nipples seem like they'd do well, as long as I can find the flat nuts that fit the thread.
Also, I'll have to put holes in the frame and table top to put the metal dowel in, but I'd like them to sit in metal hole, rather than just the wooden hole. Think a thimble or something to receive the dowel, really need help looking for something I could use to make that.
I've encircled a symbol of sorts on this wiring diagram that i don't quite understand. It's a diagram for a cars radio/speaker wiring, just curious what it denotes in the diagram, what it does, and why it does it?
Also I guess if one could explain what a 'Joint connector' would be? Mainly because when i search it i can't quite find the exact thing in question that the car had; but in the car it was a 8 pin connector, 4 over 4, but it just plugged into what im assuming was a type of bridge to connect the two vertically opposed wires to eachother. This is also the connector that the wires that are drawn to connect to that dashed outline thing come from.
Yes, many wires installed in places like cars will be sleeved and bundled like that when they travel through rough areas to avoid the insulation being worn away or in this case to prevent noise pickup.
In the case of the radio wiring, there were two connectors on the back of the radio(a 10 pin & a 6 pin), both had a grey lead coming out that went to the joint connector (over top of eachother) and then all of those wires that went into their respectable shielded areas for the speaker wire also were connected to this joint connector.
Probably beyond the remit of this thread, but I'm going to be graduating out of a fairly useless degree in the summer and I have lost all faith in the field I'm studying. I want to look for an alternate way of making a living to what I've studied. I know, I'm retarded.
Most of my family are in skilled trades; mechanics, engineers, hands-on stuff typically that sort of thing, so that would be the area I'm looking into, obviously its very broad so not sure where to start. Welding comes into mind because i'll have access to workshops where I can be taught it I suppose.
Any recommendations to start looking?
I have a 2.1kV 1uF capacitor from a microwave oven. What could I make from it?
Is it worth it trying to resurface these? They're original to the 60 year old house I'm working on and they're a kind of pale yellow gold brushed. I can't find anything similar at lowes etc without looking like cheap brass or tacky brushed aluminum
what i would do is open up the power bar, and rewire the first jack so it's in series with the rest. then i'd wire a switch that would plug into the first jack, using an extension cord.
or, if i had $30 to burn i'd buy a remote controlled power socket, like this.
Welding is a good thing to know how to do, and if you can get a free education, take advantage. It's not a bad job for 6 months to 2 years, but most people don't want to do it longer than that.
I've been practicing some welds, and I really have no idea what to think of these.
Why don't people talk more about the danger of leaded solder DUST? The solder itself and fumes are usually discussed, but never the super fine particles of solder created when soldering and especially desoldering. That dust can so easily enter your body it isn't even funny, but nobody seems to worry about it? Why? I'm honestly worried that even hand washing won't remove all of it.
So I'm redoing my front room and when I took the trim from around the front window, the jamb underneath is really wobbly and loose. The window doesn't move but the jamb does.
The roof had a seep in that area and the water had dripped down the wall into the window frame. I live in Wash DC, fairly variable climate, so it's 29 F out tonight, so I don't want to replace the window, but do I need to replace the jamb?
The only way I can think of this working well, (and I feel like I've seen it once) is to take log, dry it for a year or three as a log/kiln dry it, then cut out a U with a chainsaw, leaving about 4-5" of table (since across the grain is crazy weak compared to along the grain).
But you'd be making like 3 tables out of an 8' section of log, whereas doing it the way shown means you could make a dozen by slicing off a few tops and then splitting and tenoning off a section into a few dozen legs.
I have this standard cheap clock mechanism and I need to extend the hands from the base. Seeing it's a standard size someone's probably already done this before. Anyone? What'd you use?
hey, /fa/ here
i´m working on various garment projects like bags and jackets and i want to move into demand production to sell my desgns, i already have the patterns of all the pieces of a bag, measures with seam allowances and all, now, my problem is how to place all of my pieces in a the most efficient way possible? like fitting like 5 different shapes in a 1m wide roll of fabric, ofc not all shapes are the same nor all pieces are made in the same material, thats what is troubling me, i want to do it in paint or some software to start listing my expenses in fabrics and set a production cost
TL;DR how to fit and calculate areas and lenghts of different shapes in a specified width area
The hands are just held by friction.
The hour and minute hands are just a hole.
If you make the right sized hole you could put anything on there but there is nothing to say it will still keep time or turn at all with the extra weight
I got one of those Easy Wood Tools 3/8" carbide lathe chisels for Christmas, and I'm rather liking carbide, except paying $17/insert and it being too small. Gonna just make my own carbide chisels using http://www.carbidedepot.com/detail.aspx?ID=151059. Is 304 stainless a fine metal to use? Some folks on Reddit said not to, some used it, I figured I'd check first. Any ideas where to buy 1/2" hex stock?
And can I plunge cut with an end mill in my drill press? I'm looking for a center cutting bit, right?
Let's say that I got back in time, to medieval ages or earlier.
What kind of modern knowledge in diy things could be useful to make me get a lot of coins? I was thinking on soap making, but caustic soda kinda cannot be bought at medieval mart.
Let's say I have a USB wifi adapter with a detachable antenna (pic related). Now let's say I need to recieve the wifi signals near a window for optimal signal, but the computer will be in the next room, which is windowless.
Can I just detach the antenna from the adapter, put the adapter by my computer, prop up the antenna by the window, and connect the two with a long Type-N cable? Is there any reason I can't or shouldn't do that?
Yes you can. You can even get the wire off eBay for a buck.
But seeing as you're running a wire anyway, you'd be better running a USB wire, or running a cat5 and using a wireless bridge, or running no wire at all and plonking a wireless extender down by the window.
You can use a cable with a built-in bus-powered repeater.
You only need to add power at thirty feet, because the root hub can power the repeater. When you need to add a second repeater, the first repeater can't power it and you need to use a hub.
Also you can't power any bus-powered peripherals from a bus-powered repeater; you need a powered hub at the end.
But at least you don't need to power it in the middle.
i was a month without my own internet, and had to ''borrow'' a neighbors connection, actually putting the wifi stick outside on the balcony to get enough signal. i ran a USB extender with a 25-foot ethernet cable.
Had a desktop with the wifi adapter on a card that we had this problem with. The machine was in a steel shed with a steel fence between it and the wifi router.
Just unscrewed the antenna, affixed cable into gap and ran antenna through gap in wall and up onto roof where it had line of sight.
Worked like a charm.
The thing in your case is that you had a strong signal but it was being blocked. Since the dude is working with a weak signal, the cable loss will be greater than any gains he achieves by moving the antenna, so he'll be worse off than before.
I posted >>926329
I'm not necessarily working with a weak signal, just trying to get the least obstructed signal from my apartment to my basement storage unit. There is an adjacent, open and unused basement unit with a window, and I could run a cord from the window, along the wall, and through a small gap in the pipes into my basement. Wish I knew how long it would be but I don't have any measuring tape on me. I'll post another pic soon.
Since I've never done this before, my unknowns are:
How strong of a signal do I need?
Do I really need an adapter in the window or can I receive a signal just fine in my own basement through a concrete wall and some dirt?
Will consumer omnidirectional routers/adapters/access points do just fine or should I invest in yagi antennas?
>Do I really need an adapter in the window or can I receive a signal just fine in my own basement through a concrete wall and some dirt?
In the window
>Will consumer omnidirectional routers/adapters/access points do just fine or should I invest in yagi antennas?
You may get away with the regular antenna if you install a passive reflector outside the window.
Would it be okay to put denim insulation on cold water pipes? Or would the condensation fuck it all up?
I have some leftover denim insulation that I used on hot water pipes. I also have some cold water pipes that I would like to insulate, but they get hella condensation all over them and get wet as fuck.
I have some capacitors that I'm using on a breadboard. Would cutting the metal connector fuck the capacitor up? I was thinking of doing it tor bring it closer to the breadboard in an attempt to make it more compact.
I'd like a cordless drill for small household projects (hanging curtain rods, for example). I don't want to spend more than $100 on one. What is a good drill I can get in this price range? Are there any brands I should avoid? Any advice would be appreciated, just moved into a new apartment, the blinds suck ass, people in the parking lot can see right into my bed. I need these curtains.
I don't know anything but I bought this shitty thing and some drill bits for the same reason. Works well enough for little stuff.
I'm replacing a heating element in my electric water heater. I took the lower one out without too much of an issue, but I can't get the new one to screw in. I also can't get the old one to go in again. I am totally confused. I don't want to call a plumber and pay $150 for him to come over and screw in a new heating element. And I know if I do get someone they're going to try getting me to buy a new water heater.
Could the corrosion and sediment buildup have gotten into the threads of the screw-in heating element? It doesn't look THAT bad.
eh, it's not terrible if you read it as
"not a shitty china no name brand that you can't even get replaced when it shorts in flames the third time you use it"
But yeah... keep the receipt to prove sale for manufacturer's warranty and they may replace it when it does.
How do i separate a transformer core of this style? (see pic) In my case there's no extra room to fit a screw in between the windows, the bobbin is in the way. I've tried chiseling at the split line but not luck.
Anyone watch DIY Network? I just started, pretty decent stuff, I like Renovation Realities, retards that can't even turn off power knocking down walls.
Any other entertaining things to watch that almost feel productive?
How bad of shape are they in? Just see how removing the layer covering them goes, may leave them in decent shape.
I would go over the top with something new but era appropriate but sounds like you're trying to do something unique.
>I'd like a cordless drill for small household projects (hanging curtain rods, for example).
It's all they'll ever need. It's what I've been using for years, only just now moved up to 18v Hitachi. Just get one with a chuck so you can use cheap drill bits with it, if you only have the hex driver then you need a chuck adapter or those shitty drill bits with a hex base.
My bathroom tap seems to be possessed. Sometimes when you turn it, about halfway through the turn to a steady stream it lets out a noisy wail and starts trying to shake my sink apart.
It doesn't happen everytime but it's noisy enough and happens often enough to be annoying.
Odd that it's just that one valve.
I can only guess:
maybe the washer is oscillating and a new washer would help.
If you have flexible hose going to it, securing it to something with tape, zip-ties, or something might help reduce the vibrations (look at it while it's noisy).
I made a thick sheetmetal cone for a small project (less than an inch long cone). How would i go about cutting the the ends so they look like pic related, no jagged edges?
Does anyone have experience with the cheaper angle grinders?
I know there's a hand full you can get for $20 or so but I was wondering if there's a better alternative for $60 or less
Maybe a bit more if its really a lifetime tool
Won't see heavy use and most of it will be cutting metal
what confuses me is how to get a good cut if there is no straight edge to use but im a retard because i just figured it out using a marker while spining the cone to make a straight cut
My router's power adapter just failed and I have one from another router lying around the house but with different specs, is it safe/possible to use it?
Router model: Linksys WRT54GH
Original adapter output: 12V - 0.5A
Working adapter output: 9V - 0.6A
How do I completely remove the permanent marker from a whiteboard?
I tried the 'color over it with a whiteboard marker trick' and it didn't work. Tried windex. Just smudged it a little bit.
I ended up removing most of it with methylated spirits, but now the whole board is kinda grayish and more metho doesn't seem to remove it.
Yeah, I had a harbor freight one
The spindle lock broke the first time I used it.
It sparked and caught fire about about an hours worth of use.
I bought a milwaukee 6140-30 for about 75$, and I beat the living fuck out of it. Lots of metal grinding because I was learning to weld, I also put flapper wheels on it and stripped a whole jeep cherokee with it. That was really tough on it, just going full bore for 3-4 hours at a time for like 2 weeks. Hard use for over 4 years. cutting up random shit.
It still runs to this day, I gave it to my brother and bought a different model.
Ive seen Dewaults and Mikitas at or around your 60$ mark but dont have any experience with them
It's copper piping. I thought maybe it had wiggled a bit loose or something so went through and re-tightened it all but it hasn't made any difference.
No way the change the washer that I can see. I wanted to check the washer a while ago but I found that while the tap looks like your standard washer set there's no part that can unscrew to allow access to the washer. I thought maybe it was there and I just couldn't see the seam so I tried unscrewing it anyway but even after putting enough force on it that the piping started to bend nothing happened.
The classic method was to use nasty, expensive chemicals to etch PTFE to make it suitable for gluing and then use normal glue. Dunno if there are less nasty methods nowadays.
Consider screws, rails and other mechanical fasteners instead.
Anyone know much about plumbing/heating? I rent a three storey house with the boiler on the middle floor. In the two bedrooms at the top, the radiators have completely stopped working, and in one bottom floor room the radiator only warms up a bit.
We had plumbers out to fix it before, and they've tried bleeding them, a chemical flush, rebalancing the system and sorting out an airlock. For a while it worked then the top two got cooler and cooler over a few days. The bar is at 1.6ish when the heating is off. The last time they came to fix it it went higher, but has since dropped (over the course of a few weeks).
It seems to be that the pressure needs to be higher for all of the radiators to work. Is this correct? If so, what reason do you think there could be for the pressure dropping?
Presumably whatever they did last time to make it work was only fixing a symptom, not addressing the actual problem.
If anyone has any ideas about what could be causing this or advice about how to fix it I would be really grateful! I've asked the landlord to fix it but they take ages so in the meantime, thanks.
>I rent a three storey house
Tell your landlord to fix it. That is their job.
Try bleeding the system again. It might have an air leak and need regular bleeding. If that doesn't work, see above.
Have done mate, they just take a while to get it done despite emails and phone calls.
Is there anything that can be done to fix it permanently so that its not having to be done all the time?
Thanks for the response
/diy/ noob here, just asking how to get this broken screw out of the thread.
You're gonna have to use a drill bit to put a small pit in the top of the screw. this will give something for pic related to bite into. it's a screw extractor. you turn the drill counter-clockwise to unscrew the screw, which causes the extractor to bite into it because it's threaded in reverse. then you simply turn the screw out
I'm a hobbyist wood worker who's trying to make a business out of this. I've already got a few clients and a few jobs, so things are really looking up.
The thing is I'm thinking about making a product or two that involves some laser burning / etching of letters, numbers, etc onto the surface of a board.
I looked online real quick and I'm seeing some really high prices, 4k just cuts into my profits to much to spend that.
Do you guys have any suggestions on laser engravers that I should get, or maybe recommendations on whether I should make one myself?
The only other option I have is wood burning, but because of what these are and how many I might be making, it's less appealing.
I bought these nema 17 motors off ebay. What driver board do you suggest for them?
>Shaft match with 5mm pulleys.
>Comes with 70cm 4-Lead Wire
>HYBRID STEPPING MOTOR 42SHD0217->24B
>Number of phase:2
>Insulation resistance:100MΩmin.(500V DC)
>Insulation class:Class B
>Resistence per phase:2.5Ω±10%
>Inductance per phase:50mH±20%
This is probably a stupid question, but:
suppose I have two dc motors, each with different a different rpm. If I regulated both of their voltages to the same level, would they operate at the same rpm or would they still be different?
I am looking for a recess-able catch or grasp similar to pic related. That one is called a 4-way catch, and is on mcmaster-carr.
I was wondering if anyone knows of a catch that is somewhat similar. I know there are similar styles on computer cases like the NCase M1, but I don't know what they are called.
My goal is to attach plates of metal onto a 1-inch square steel tubing frame with the ability to quickly remove them.
I would get the ones at mcmaster-carr, but they are $10 each, and I need at least 16 of them.
Go to amazon or home depot and look for cabinet assories i have those exact one on mine but i wont preferr to use them on a square inch steel it wont be able to handle the weight use small magnets or velcrow
So a while back one of my cousins was living with my mom and they did some work in a bathroom. They stopped before they put any lighting in above the vanity, but there's a hole in the ceiling with two wires coming out.
If I were to purchase a light fixture, how hard would it be to install? I just watched a video on how to do it, that's definitely within my ability, but there's no plate or anything in the drywall or the ceiling. How is a light likely to hang in those conditions?
Prepping the ceiling for paint after removing popcorn....
I removed the popcorn from the ceiling in my bedroom, now I need to prep it for painting.
So my question is are you supposed to mud the entire ceiling before priming and painting, or is the drywall that was under the popcorn good enough after rough spots have been sanded?
Or are you always supposed to do a skim coat of mud over the ENTIRE drywall that was under the popcorn?
Also, the edges of the ceiling that meet with the walls don't seem like perfect edges. There's no gap or anything, but the edges seem more rounded than squared. Should I just caulk the entire perimeter of the ceiling?
the drywall on the ceiling is obviously attached to wood studs, or slats. so the best option is to identify where those are (use a mirror) and attach a box to the side of the stud by driving 2 screws thru the side of the box (at an angle of course). if the studs are nowhere near the box, a better alternative is to use a recessed light. these essentially just need a hole in the drywall of the right size.
yeah, some models stick out a few inches and can be directed at various angles. or of course, you could just add a bulb extender if it uses common screw-in lamps.
I have a large duffel bag (16X40 inches) that I would like to take with me on a hike, but as duffel bags are cumbersome I'd like to convert it to something more comfortable and backpack like (if you are wondering why I don't just buy a large backpack it's because I'm ultra poofrag and already had this bag lying around). So far the best idea I seem to have found is to make a sort of backpack frame like this out of a few bucks worth of pvc and lash it to it using some rope?
Anyone have a better idea or should I just go ahead with this half assed plan?
What is the thing holding the baskets called? Want to buy some to make this but don't know what to look up.
Looks like someone just screwed part of a standard self assembled shelving thing to the wall.
I found these by searching adjustable metal shelving brackets, seems to be branded as "twinslot shelving", but you can probably find it under other names too.
if you're gonna spend money on PVC, might as well spend the same amount on a used metal-frame backpack. they're $8 at the thrift store.
another option is to arrange the straps on the bag so they work like a backpack. i see this often on goalie bags, which are essentially the same thing as a duffel bag. not as comfy as the previous option.
I don't really know how reliable it would be to get one at a thrift store though. Most of the big ones like goodwill now have online marketplaces where they sell anything with any worth at near secondhand retail prices, and I'm not sure how common external frame backpacks are in the first place. Not to mention that pvc does have some positives, such as easily able to be remolded to be more comfortable, or extend it to fit the person. I will still check around and see if there are any stores near me that have any, thanks for the suggestion.
As for the second option that might work, but it seems like it would be very uncomfortable, the straps are very small, unpadded, and don't really fit around my shoulders well. the weight distribution is all wrong too. It seems like it would not be a good choice for a long walk let alone a hike. Still thanks anyways.
Sup /qtddtot/, embarking on babies first furniture restoration project, would I be considered a heathenish pig if I cleaned these handles back to shiny brass or do rules of patina not apply to this sort of metalwork?
As far as I know patina only really matters on collectibles, if you are restoring something for personal use according to your preference, or something of little value, I don't see why it would really matter.
I'm no expert though.
> I'm not sure how common external frame backpacks are in the first place.
Dirt common. It was the standard for backpackers for decades before the internal from types edged them out and the US military still issues them (though they are mostly for training these days). So check surplus stores too.
I'm trying to make some leather backpacks. What tools do I need? What are some good sites to purchase supplies?
My advice... start making packs outta waxed canvas if you're serious. enough a half way decent sewing machine will handle without needing tons of expensive tools and even more expensive leather.. For example, I will build say a wallet/small purse out of canvas. and line the outside of it with fur. canvas can be dyed very bright colors as to not be boring. so you can have red inside and say red fox fur pelt outside.. very good looking. also the working with fur will help you get into leather working without dropping a ton of money on cow/moose/elk/roo/elephant leather.
I'm pretty certain that there are general purpose "fit these given shapes in this big shape in the most space efficient way", and you can probably find it by googling exactly that.
You should remember though that oftentimes with fabric it's not straight up a matter of placing it in the most efficient way, but rather have the pieces aligned symmetrically in the middle, rotated for a certain "fabric grain" (don't know how to say that in english) direction - for example because it stretches asymmetrically, or aligned to a printed pattern.
I also think some fashion design software does that automatically.
My wife says her hair iron has become really sensitive in terms of the heat setting. If she turns the little dial a tiny bit it gets either too hot or too cold.
It was a $120 hair iron with a two year warranty.
Question is: Is it possible for a variable resister (I'm guessing that's what controls the temp) to go bad or get more sensitive with time?
If so we'll try to warranty it, if not I will assume it's her imagination.
Thanks in advance.
i don't think that it's possible for variable resistors to have that problem; however, that doesn't mean that your wife is crazy, as the problem could be in the rest of the circuit
for example, say your computer doesn't boot when you press the power button
this could be due to a faulty power button, but it could also be due to the power cord being disconnected or faulty, some kind of motherboard problem, etc.
i'd say just warranty it
Other than the size is there any difference between these speakers? They're all labeled 4 ohm 3 watt.
Will the size make them sound different?
i.e. would the larger speaker produce deeper sounds?
Yes. They obviously have different cone materials. Size, material, specific type of motivator, even details of construction are all going to cause the drivers to have very different audio response characteristics. Many of these are represented by a driver's "Thiele-Small Parameters".
Any of them will attempt to reproduce the electrical signal you feed to them, but indeed, trying to feed a lot of high frequency to a very large driver will result in mushy, muffled sound, and trying to feed very low frequencies to teeny ones will result in burning it out. This is why most speakers are made with two or three drivers and a cross-over, a bit of electronics inside the speaker that filters the correct frequencies to the correct drivers.
There's this kind of "eraser" that's got glass fibers in it. It actually removes a bit of the surface of what you're "erasing", and if the stain hasn't penetrated too deeply, can probably remove the stains.
the most efficient air filter machines use carbon.
if noise is a problem then just buy an austin air brand purifyier(its the only retail/household air purifier that uses carbon/zeolyte,everything else was industrial sized or had silly features like ozone and bluetooth.
if sound isnt a problem you could get a blower wheel and make it run to pull air through a carbon filter(can just buy a replacement from some company or make one, activated carbon is really cheap)
my roomate smokes indoors and i tried to diy but it was either not effecient or entirely way to loud for an apartment, i ended up just buying this
its like $400 though
also ignore anything that claims its "scientifically proven" bc there is no official testing perimeters that are used when testing so you need to look at each of the specs of the different products
Thanks anon, guess I'll just have to mix 2 big with 2 small for best sound quality?
Does anyone here have any experience with DIY Virtual reality? I found a driver board with a display port input for an iPad mini 2 display. How would one be able to create head tracking motion? I know you would need a gyroscope or accelerometer for that, but how would one incorporate it in?
I don't actually plan on doing this in the near future, but I saw a really old instructable a while ago on virtual reality glasses, and seeing the driver board made me start thinking of stuff to do with it.
It depends, of course. One really high quality driver is better for sound quality than two shitty ones. But you'd probably know it if you had that kind of ridiculously expensive driver.
I'm not sure what you're planning, but you really really want matched drivers for stereo. If those are all you have to work with, I'd pick one big and one small and make a mono speaker.
I have a chart recorder and a 295nm lightmeter. I need to chart recorder to hook up to the UV meter but the chart recorder has banana plug inputs and and the male jack on the UV meter is 4.5mm i think. Is there such an adapter at radioshack or something? Then I just need a pen for the chart recorder.
I was thinking of portable stero speakers with one pair, but now I'm thinking of doing 2 pairs instead and putting in the larger 8cm speakers and the smaller 3cm speakers into one box. 4x 3w speakers.
I'm trying to get into casting for sculpted models and other small doodads. I looked up Silicone Caulk mould-making and it's brilliant, but I need resin. Thing is, my country's tiny and irrelevant and the only thing I can find is expensive fibreglass resin used for boat repair. Anywhere I look, no-one stocks 2-part polyurethane casting resin (the off-white liquid plastic shit).
So I can get some from england, right? Sure.. but is it allowed in checked luggage? Buying over websites will cost me double in shipping, but I happen to be going to England for some R&R next week. I'm sure I can find some, but I'm worried it'll get confiscated.
Is it toxic? Is it flammable? Is it allowed in checked luggage? I understand it might be too much of a specific question but maybe one of you fine anons knows or can lead me to more info.
Yep, toxic. pretty much everything liquid that hardens is toxic due to the solvents and drying agents. See if you can get something in from local hardware stores, they tend to get deals on shipping so may end up cheaper even with higher prices if you pick up in the store, even with a special order.
Bollocks. but then why can I buy the same casting resins over fucking ebay? Isn't it also by plane across international waters?
And every local store (hardware, art, machinery maintenance etc) has told me they don't get any of that stuff due to shelf-life and lack of business. I'm still going to look up a few specific stores but I'm considering outside sources. It's doing my head in.
The stitch mechanism behind a sewing machine, standardized parts, assembly line manufacture, the bessemer process to make steel (pretty much the only one I understand enough to sell, sadly), repeating crossbows, the trebuchet depending how far back, minor calculus so you can aim it, distillation (oh my god sooo much money), gambling/statistics/card games (same), standard small boat sail rig with a jib and mainsail which is SO much more efficient than a square sail, machine tools for sawmills, even if driven by waterwheel and leather belts, an overshot waterwheel, a tablesaw is so much cheaper than hand labor for boards.
Um... casting? took forever to get bells right so could probably make coin on that from green sand casting.
hydraulic ram press for indoor plumbing.
possibly rubber from dandelion latex.
beekeeping? not sure I know enough for it but sugar was mad money until the 1900's.
Oh, float glass would be bank, but not sure I could get it clear enough to be useful, all I know is sand, some sort of seaweed, and arsenic makes it clearer and only a little brownish? but yeah, silvered mirrors.
Germ theory of disease and public health measures would be super amazing, but no good way to monetize them.
Oh, a screw lathe. inclined knife method to make the first screw out of wood, lathe with gearing to cut copies out of metal, bam, standardized bolts and machine screws for everything, I will be king of medieval ikea.
Phonographs would be bank.
Soap isn't a great plan, too much cultural baggage to get through, bathing was dangerous for a big chunk of it because too clean and people think you're jewish or a witch. Also, when you have to carry your own water, bathing is less attractive. To make money off luxuries they either have to be super expensive, or they have to be super common. Soap is going to be neither. also, caustic soda can be made from water and wood ash, i believe? traditional soap recipe is ashes, grease, and scent.
Pity. generally ebay ships cheap by cargo ship, as part of a container shipment. When stuff IS shipped by plane, it goes in reinforced crates in a cargo plane, so no passenger liability.
Make sure you don't just ask if they HAVE it, but also how much it would cost to ORDER it for you. Like I said, a lot of shipping is MUCH cheaper to deliver to a commercial address. the last mile can be like 1/2 the cost for the mail carrier, because they have to send a guy just for that one package. For commercial, it's part of a truckload, so your share of the shipping would be much smaller. OTOH you would pay markup for store.
How difficult/expensive would it be to make a clone of this pedal?
These go for like $200 a pop online, and I just want it's nice tone without paying the vintage price.
I have some experience soldering simple things, but nothing this complex.
Forgot image because I have medical deficits.
The components are mainly ordinary through hole components and no special construction techniques or instruments are needed. You still need to be able to read the schematic, get the correct components (not every parameter is given, so you need to understand the basics) and solder them together. It is also a mains-powered thing, so electrical safety is important.
There are also a bunch of LDR output optoisolators and you most likely want to make them by yourself. Assuming you have no instructions for making them, you need to experiment a bit. (You can also buy them ready-made, but IIRC muh valuable antiques etc.)
No idea about the price, but most of the components are really cheap. Transformer, switches, connectors and the enclosure are the most expensive parts and probably cost more than all the rest together.
Didn't notice it before, but there seems to be only one normal LDR output opto and the two other LDRs are controlled otherwise. I'd assume they're illuminated by that pilot lamp through a foot-operated dimmer/shutter/whatever. So, more experimentation for you + some mechanical tinkering.
Is there any way to fix this warping on my oven knobs. Or is there any place that I can get decent looking oven knobs that aren't crap?
got car troubles, diy.
it's cold and it won't start. i bought it used in august, so this is the first winter i've got it. when it didn't start 2 days ago i put in a new battery (varta 55AH), since old one was empty-ish and i didn't know how old it was. i was positive that was it, but no.
anyway, tell me if this is plausible: fuel level is low, i'm thinking the fuel pump is having trouble keeping up if it's weak, so it might start if i pour some more gas in it?
early 90s mobile home. cheap windows + cold air doesn't do me well so can diy suggest things I can do now (obvs I'm not going out and buying new windows when it's 0 degrees outside). I've got most of my windows covered with blankets. Is that clear plastic sheeting worth the effort? Is it reusable or can I just leave it on year round?
So ive been intrested for awhile about how to go about making my own driver for a usb device, the thought is that i would take a flash drive and change its drivers for mine or simply add my driver to the end of its. Anybody know how to do this or where to look to learn this?
The plastic makes a little bit of a difference if the windows are drafty, its a good idea to caulk big openings also. The plastic is reuseable i suppose but theyre cheap enough it doesnt matter
What are these called? Do they make these with two holes?
You dont need an ammeter, just wrap some wire around one of the mains inputs. It draws, what 1 amp? You can make a CT by hand with a couple turns of wire and a big ass resistor so it doesn't jump the insulation. Pull your signal off across the resistor.
I want to buy a circular saw since i don't have one and will make my upcoming woodworking projects easier. The one's at my local pawn shop are relatively cheap around 70-100 dollars. I don't believe brand really matters but at that point should I just buy a new one? Or is there anything I should look out for?
I just started working as a Big Fucking Drill Operator at a die-maker. My hands are filled with steel slivers smaller than a human hair. It happens whether or not I wear gloves.
So my question: is there an easy way to get them out that isn't tweezers? A lot of them are too short for tweezing.
100% worth it. Works great.