Post your current projects and what they are.
I'm designing a simple desk for my new PC build. Body will be celery top pine and top will be Australian Hardwood.
Clothes stand made from an inverted Ikea Frosta stool.
The wood is slightly bent in the middle unfortunately as I used a scrap piece I found in the garage.
I was originally looking for shelf brackets to use for the feet when I came across this idea http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/diy-shelf-brackets-made-from-i-63635 . The stool obviously came with a seat which I ended up using as a base. This helps keeps the stand bottom heavy and also levels out any unevenness in the right angle feet/struts.
Fiddling around in changing the pahse of aluminium. So far I have produced lots of slag. If work permits I'll continue tomorrow.
Uses waste oil as fuel. Diesel was too rough! I ran out of waste oil though. The diesel was meant for my flamethrower-to-be.... Used just a bit.
I want to convert my wardrobe to a computer desk. I still don't know what material I will use for the top. Maybe buy a custom cut glass, I don't know
you cram it for no reason
This structure on the left = big mess. Look at the unused space right below it, and how it forces you to angle your screen
is your tower really something you want in your face all the time ? can't it fit under your desk somewhere, or on the right side ?
Start with a full board. Use plywood with a vinyl on it. Give it a nice soft edge, maybe in wood as well (think about your resting arms)
Make holes if necessary. get your tower out of the way.
wtf is that gun. it's going to fall. It will never defend amurrika. It will always be a lethal risk for you and your peers.
this weekend I made the most insanly ridgid
universal standard...uh tool holder.
uni mount with index dowel so no unwanted rotation. turned a nice chamfer on to it
2 locating dowels fix it to the main plate orientated in such a way so they cannot go on in reverse
12.7mm stainless steel shaft (because fluids will be involved)fits into a reamed hole with controlled depth. the M3 black dowel pin keeps its position so no unwanted rotation. 4 M4 screws mount it to the main plate.
the Stainless steel post is long enough so the tool will stay rigid as fuck while in operation , but not long/sharp enough to puncture the operator if something breaks
choose paper or sketchup - both designs are halfway.
Why pc addicts can't be satisfied with a door panel on vika lerbergs I don't know. These computer desk designs are all crammed petrifications of a bad habit.
The thing is my computer is as long as the depth of my ward robe, so I won't be able to open the disktray and/or plug anything. And the shelf clear the screen, so I can move it all I want. The unused space will be used by the wires.
My pc case is not particularly ugly to look at anyway.
I really would have prefered a locating pushing for the Stainless center shaft, as well as some nice 6mm locating bushing/pins instead of dowel pins, but what ever, for the next revision i suppose
While i was instalkling the tool, i wasnt paying attntuion to both axis and drilled it fucking off center.
This will fuck up my Tool Center Point and positioning of the tool.
I have to go buy another one now, and just bring it to work and drill it on their big lathe, this thing is too big/long for my lathes
But the experimental Center mounting spike is holding it on increadably well and the tapered barbs dont seem to be letting go. i think i will fill the inside gaps with a silicone cocking , but aside from that i think we have a winning design for the END OF ARM tooling mounts
I am working on a desk. Finally finished the top, its just a piece of MDF wrapped in carbon fiber vinyl. However I am unsure how many legs I need to support it. Would four legs be enough to support it? I am worried about the middle sagging with weight.
The Desk is 260cm x 100cm
working on some speaker cabinates. ill go grab a picture of them.
in the process of mocking up some frame designs for a jet bike im working on.
pic related, shitty sketch ideas before i cad something up.
shitty jet engine plans, scribbled some junk on it to make it funny when i was explaining to my gf.
but yeah, fairly basic turbocharger based engine, using the compressor to force air into a combustion chamber.
flame tube / combustion chamber metal. i have some 1/8 plate steel, but it is behind a tool chest and i dont want to pull it out.
larger one is 4" OD, smaller one is 2" OD, however the 2" od isnt being used. need to order some 6" OD for the outer wall of the combustion chamber.
main body of the compressor / turbine. theres a razor blade for scale.
size of compressor inlet. its slightly sloped inward, so the impeller is a bit smaller,
Going up against a wall. I live in a studio apartment I have plenty of floor space and no other furniture. This is going to be my workstation/computer desk. That's why I am making it so large.
lastly, speaker enclosure im working on. currently upside down since im painting the bottoms first (so when its flipped up the right way i dont have a freshly painted top on the ground).
2 8" woofers, a horn fed tweeter, and the oval which is at the top (in the picture) is the port.
its the fusion 8 alchemy towers off diy sound group
I'd say it doesn't need to be anywhere near 1000mm wide. My current desk is around 600mm wide and it fits most things, I'd suggest around 700mm to 800mm in width. An entire metre seems a little overboard to me.
4 feet will be fine, it wont flex much, if you wanted to. you could make a sideways H shape under the desk with some cheap pine 1x2's if you want it to be more sturdy. but i dont think you would need it.
dont just do 2x4's or something for the legs, it will look discussing though.
he mentioned doing a vynal wrap on it.
by the way, sand with 200 grit before you try to adhear it.
No I bought some of the fake carbon vinyl to wrap it. Seems nice it has a good texture.
I was going to buy some metal table legs from Ikea or something. Just worried about it sagging over time. Ill buy a few pine boards and make the H. Any advice on securing the H's middle section I am pretty new to wood working. Should I just drill it into the mdf or the parts of the H, or both.
pre drill with 2 sizes down, then get some screws and drive them in. if you have 3/4" mdf and 1" thick by 2" wide wood, then get 1.25" wood screws.
if you have wood glue on hand, put a bit down first, and let it harden. then the wood wont move while drilling.
i would do 3 or 4 screws along the long dimension. and then 1 on each corner of the H
in the beginning, propane fuel and a spark made with a relay in a feedback loop and a coil from a car.
initial air flow will be done with a leaf blower.
long term, i plan on making a frame for it, having an electric start, and use propane to warm the flame tube, then switch to kerosene.
it's an idea
I don't have much experience with combustors but the wall thickness makes me a little uneasy. You're going to have somewhat high pressure and high temperature inside that pipe. Internet says around 300C open air but you're closed compressed air so possibly higher. Be careful.
Just threw up the cheapest enclosure i could whip up on my V2 because i keep putting off any significant effort. That alone has brought print failures to almost zero.
also working on a conversion of my Tiny Bees because my GF likes fairies and destiny type weapons. will be a mix of printed and laser cut parts.
I finally finished my table and benches
Made legs for a single bench today, need to tidy up the welds and treat the metal and cut the wood.
Hello /diy/! I have a quandary and conundrum.
So I've made some windmuffs for my ribbon mics. I just used cheap ol' craft fur - but here's hte problem. The edge where I've cut them (along the bottom) needs to be sealed-up, as the fabric is fraying and the fur is falling out. This was a terrible amount of work so I can't fuck this up... I tried edging it with the last of my fabric rubber cement but it's not a permanent solution. Wat do?
are you a furry?
In process of stripping this old bookshelf of 3 layers of paint and restoring the original finish
Just made my first batch of soap
Need to wait 24 hours
Think it's going to burn my skin off
I'll post tomorrow
Made my own mould for one bar also.
See how that turns out, I was impressed with the mould and it's detail.
Decided I wanted to start making walnut tobacco pipes. This is my first pipe. I know its shit but I am okay with it.
Planning on making a basic workbench out of 30x30mm square tubing and some scrap table top. I guess I need to practice my welding first.
Had to stop my current project and rethink the way I store my shit. Down near the right leg of the stool where those files are I think I'm going to remove them and mount a keyboard tray vertically and hang some stuff on there so I can slide it in and out. I think I just need one of those tall tool cabinet on wheels.
It's a floating island because Australia and there's spiders everywhere. I tried sealing up the shed with expanding foam but that didn't work too well. The grass just grows through it and the ants burrow through it too. So I was thinking of filling the gaps between the corrugation and the concrete slab with more concrete.
Not really, 30x30x2.5mm or 4mm you want about 20V and 5.5/6 wire speed if using 0.8 wire, if using MIG that is.
I have just moved my parents out the garage so i need to build a welding bench.
Nope, shooting aint to big in the UK and I'm not into it like that. I just use it for quarry on the garden, rabbit, pigeon & pheasant. Only just got the Theoben Rapid Mk2 in the last week. That old springer is probably older than most people on 4chan. The Theoben I plan on tuning it myself as I don't have a FAC licence.
So my soap tuned out ok I guess, no sent or colour just wanted to test the science, it only cost me £5 or less to make just over 500g.
And to be honest, fuck it, i'm guna try melt and pour and just experiment with colour and moulds.
One more thing, I tried to make a bench yesterday with this new saw. Disastrous is an understatement. I might post pictures when it's finished if I haven't died from shame.
I made a cradle for my baby. Some lady was selling getting rid of a broken hard wood cradle on a baby Facebook page. I kept the rocker feet and built a frame for it. Took me two days to build the frame and then two days to paint it.
Working on a "power glove" audio/video analog synthesizer. It's based on a light gun project I finished a few months ago, but now with five light sensors and a lot of other design improvements.
Finished making pic related yesterday. It's for a friend to put little gifts in for their daughter every Christmas Eve. There's a laser cut 'stencil' with her name and things Ive since stuck on the lid for them.
>tfw when farther tells me "£200 to use the laser + £2 per part you want cutting"
>that's what family's are for.
>mfw a 1kw laser is a lot of money
Ok, my 50 year old, 40×40 pole barn.
Raise support poles back to level and build a band board all the way around.
Pour concrete around poles, remove band board.
Frame two 16' insulated overhead garage doors across the front.
Remove and sell old metal
pour concrete floor
Install new metal that will match house
Rebuild lean to on the side, bringing it up on existing roof.
Standard overhead garage door under lean to, also entrance door
block chimney for woodstove.
Run all electric in conduit, spray foam insulation
paint and seal floor
Gravel about 8' all the way around, plus new driveway
When done I can park 4 cars across the front, leaving a 20x20 work shop.
I don't really have any idea how I am going to build this.
Raspberry Pi alarm system for my cellar. Detects door opening via reed switch and then makes nice pictures of the intruder and stores them on a remote server.
i have these glass shelves and I plan on mounting them on my wall. Would regular shelf racks from a hardware store work if I used rubber (bumps?) to sit the glass ontop?
no reason they shouldn't, just add a little ickul bit of glue on the "bumps" maybe.
Also looks like a slight curve? i'de put the highest edge against the wall, but I use shelves a lot.
I've just had the best blow job of this 61 year old bloke, he's fucking awesome. I'm sure he has no teeth, fucking gum job, i mean the best and i've had a lot from both sexes.
DIY CNC mill, 3 axis. Started off wanting it to be solely for PCB's, but after buying the shafts and other things I've decided to go with at least a 300mm^2 area.
I was going to have the frame cut out of acrylic, but figured that I can buy a sufficiently large sheet of 1/2" MDF for $10.
Still haven't figured out how I'm going to cut it into the shapes I need.
Making this out of cement
I've been playing with plaster of paris lately and it's not really up to my needs.
>plaster $4 for 1kg, cement $7 for 20kg
First I'm going to cast the inverse out of plaster then cast the cement on that, inside a cake tin (one with a catch that lets the entire side expand so I can get it out)
look at the sticker the motor rebuilders put on my rebuilt motor (left side)
i also added 2x db15's to the robot so i can do like 16 IO's or other stuff. routed 2 cables through it
and that bigass plate to mount a project box or something
also programming is hard :(
informII is gay language
Found a cake tin and a clock mechanism so they're my starting measurements, now I'm trying to figure out how to make the inverse.
The geometric pattern will be origami on a sheet of plastic, but I still need to figure out the inlay circle before the outer circle, starting to think if I had a 3d printer I could just print then inverse then cast that.
Dunno why anyone would paint over natural wood, it just looks so much better varnished or stained.
gr8 project m8, and a cool looking oscilloscope 2
As for me I'm extending my current IKEA wooden table with lodsa shelves. Am designing them around a Tektronix 2235 oscilloscope, hence the unevenness. Question, would 6mm thick plywood be good enough (sag wise) for ~190mm spacing (lighter colour shelves in picture)? Or should I just got with 9mm
I still need to have a good ammount of desk space for my keyboard and mouse, so that's the reason for the angled bits. There is going to b a flat piece of wood supporting them so I think it should be OK, why don't you think so?
I visited the local jewellery shops to buy a strap to replace the original nylon strap of my watch. This one Hirsch was pretty much what I was looking for, one thick piece of leather and not just the surface leather sown onto whatever they sown onto but after I saw the +60 € price tag I 360'd out of there and started looking for raw materials to make my own.
Initially I thought about buying scrap leather but it turned out to be much harder and expensive than I thought. Old belts from thrift stores, dog collars, gun straps from military surplus stores etc. came to my mind next but long story short, the best thing I could find in nice colour was this 25mm wide Czech military belt from my closet. I paid 10 € for it back in the day and comparing it to the price of a new strap I justified destroying it.
The best tool I had for thinning out the 3 mm leather to half turned out to be the centimeter long straight edge at the end of the serrated blade of my Leatherman. Holding the heavy tool awkwardly by the blade pressed on some nerves in my hand or something since I could feel numbness in my index finger after making the first mockup strap. So, for the actual strap I used my Victorinox blade even though I couldn't give it as good an edge. In hindsight, I should've invested some money for a blade that was more suitable for this kind of job.
I used a Dremel and a 1 mm drill to make the string holes, 2 mm drill for the buckle pin holes, burned/chamfered the holes with a wood burner and also burned a groove between the string holes for the string to sink in. In total there were about 20 steps to making one, thinning, stepping, cutting to width, grooving, marking, drilling, burning, sewing, cutting to length, drilling, cutting and so on until the final sewing.
The string should be replaced with waxed string and tied more neatly and I forgot to finish the second joint to exact thickness but otherwise it's a finished project and I enjoyed working with leather.
Eh, finished product left out of the pic.
I'm currently working on a "Savage Toolbox" as designed and built by Adam Savage
Pic related, I don't have any pics of the one I'm building, I need to find my camera
wouldn't have to dig through jumbled up tools looking for what you need, the idea he built it to is the first order of retrieve-ability, you shouldn't have to move one thing to find something else, he used to carry some ridiculous amount of tools and kept blowing out leather doctor bags so he designed his around those for organizational ability. I wanted something easy to organize and rugged enough to throw in the trunk of my car, admittedly it would have been easier to alter an off the shelf box but i thought it would be an interesting build
Just moved all my told to my basement. Dust collection and filtration made this possible. My current project if to organize the fuck out of it because I don't have a ton on space.
I'm making a pair of mics out of matching salt'n pepper shakers
salt = piezo crystal mic
pepper = carbon granule microphone
I have the carbon transmitter, just waiting for the crystal element and the shakers to come-in. I haven't looked forward to a project this much in awhile, even my subkick™ didn't have me this revved up
Hey anon, nice to see you are continuing on the sex robit project. I came back here recently looking for the thread you had going a couple of month's ago, but couldn't find it. Any improvements yet? Plans to keep the chainsaw on for shits and giggles?
Not him, but those angled pieces will take load from above, they'll want to rotate at the base, and it's near on impossible to take bending in a connection for timber that skinny.
Reduce the angle of incline, or better yet, design it so you don't need them at all.
t. Structural engineer.
Storage units I'm building and then going to rent out for $$$$$$
Interior is metal so people can't fuck anything up. I begrudgingly decided to give them a plug along with a motion activated light.
6 units, these middle walls are just floating
Are those outside too or just the interior of a timber frame or something?
I ask because I feel like the deck is spanning in the wrong direction if the panel on the left is supposed to be load bearing.
For some reason, I can imagine that structure to act like a piece of corrugated cardboard bending about it's weak direction if they were acting as primary structure.
Sry, I did not rotate my picture. The gray stuff on the right is the concrete floor. Also, while the metal does act as a ridged panel for both the trusses and timber framed walls, so they don't twist or move, they do not actually bear any load. The trusses load on the exterior walls which are timber frame, sheeted and have metal on them.
I also put insulation in the walls and ceiling, and I am not really sure why as I won't be installing HVAC. But I had it sitting around so I figured why not.
So the logic goes like this:
Male cigarette lighter plug to female schuko
Any ordinary extension cord
Male schuko to female cigarette lighter plug
At the moment a light.
Now I always have a 20m extension cord so that you can get (lots of) light from my car, or something else.
I used to run a small soap and lotion/etc business/ If you followed a solid recipe and didn't fuck up your saponification values you'll be fine.
Also protip, age it for 6 weeks and it'll last longer and actually get more gentle. Also insulate that motherfucker after you pour it in the moulds during its gelatenous phase (with towels or something) so keep it warm for longer... makes for nicer and more even bars as well as helps ensure the lye is all evenly neutralized.
hey anon. i made a removable bracket with dowels n shit so i can attach at will. needs a laser still. ive just been practicing priogramming and doing wiring as well as making tool attachments for the main job that it will run (sex) i made these videos for you and this other anon
Spent the winter break making a sheath for my kukri.
Sorry for the file size and the shitty camera
Here I am wearing it with a multitool pouch I made attached.
Looking good anon! Like the idea of being able to change the tooling on the fly, allows for more flexibility. Did you have any troubles getting the arm fixed after the encoder error? (Can't remember the specifics of the issue)
>inb4 funeral pyre for the majestic stool
Also is the chainsaw getting stopped because it's not running off main power, but a battery instead? Looking good, keep at it!
i dont wanna jinx it but she boots up every time with no errors after the encoder replacement
chainsaw is on a battery, but it stops because i didnt tape it to the battery well enough so when it jerks the saw the wire came loose so i just keep pressing it to the battery a little more. when i get an 18v power supply that can handle this it will be run off that. i have one thats 18v and 20volt amps but its not enough it needs more power
here is an older pic detailing (kinda) how the chainsaw is now, on a real bracket. i will take some more pics with better detail
I'm framing up an 8'X8' storage loft. How fucked is this?
Here's how it's shaping up so far. I'm thinking I need another beam on the unsupported side, even though it's lagged into the studs
Rigging the backup power for the bunker, 24t 1600kva piller genset.
Alrighty /diy/, my salt & pepper shakers finally arrived. They have this plug hole in the bottom which is just a little too small for my XLR to mount through. What's the best way to bore this hole a couple mms larger? A 1" drill bit is like $25 so fugg that.
hmm that's a breddy good suggestion. it's going to leave a (somewhat) visible edge but i imagine that'll be smoother than any drilling or grinding will leave it. my only quandary would be to make sure i don't warp the whole piece (it's pretty thin steel) while working it. thanks friend i'm going to look into this!
Plywood is one thing I would be careful about upcycling, and I regularly pallet wood. cheap (as in china cheap, not cheapest in the store cheap) plywood is made with formaldehyde glue (probably abour 20% cheaper manufacture?) which outgasses, you know, formaldehyde. Same thing as what caused lumber liquidators to crash last year. I would be leery of having any in a space more enclosed than a warehouse.
Pretty much, just "some" small things to finish and all the concrete related jobs will be done. Started moving over to wiring the place, rolling out the cable is fine, but licensed electrician must do the termination of all the outlets/junction boxes by law.
It's good, minus a hard to shake cold.
The (I assume) filters aren't painted so from that it seems everything that needs to be serviced can be serviced.
Id be pretty pissed if I bought a backup generator for a nuclear bunker and was expected to have to replace parts in it constantly. Because where would you get them from? You can't go outside.
Pretty much the worst thing is rust so get rid of that for a start and you are pretty much good to go
Installed this wood stove over the weekend. Our home only had electric baseboard heaters and since i live in Ohio, I really wasn't feeling $500 electric bills. It heated our 1400 sq ft ranch to 75 last night. Outside temp was -3 when i woke up.
Also a good suggestion. Especially because I have a number of other holes to drill into the sheet metal shakers... and this looks like a good option. Thanks!
Harbor Freight has them for like $12... prolly worth it. Especially as I won't need it for any heavy work, and it'll be good to have one.
Alright /diy/, here's a challenge.
I want to store my BMX inside the house, preferably on top of this built in cupboard, but I need a way to get it up and down relatively easily, I was thinking a pulley system mounted on the ceiling and more recently thought of a bed on rollers that roll off the edge towards the door then pivot down. gf is okay with it in the bedroom as long as it isn't on the veranda anymore.
There's not much clearance between the handle bars and the top of the ceiling
Well I bought a half-round file for $2.49 at HF and in about 10mins of suffering I managed to get the XLR to fit perfectly! So thanks to the anon(s) who suggested the file, it was cheep and worked great.
Also I drilled all the salt/pepper holes today and tapped the screw mount into the side. I still have a couple components on the way (electronics mostly) but I should have the mics done by this time next week or so. Pretty chuffed, this is fun.
1. Grow - put it up there
2. Why not just suspend it from the celling on ropes and three hooks. One under each bar and one under the back of the seat, then pull on the rope (attached to a pully on the celling and another on the wall to keep the ropes out the way) and have a hook to tie the rope around /catch.
Then you still have storage space on top of the cupboard.
im in the UK and have to put up with arseholes using both metric and imperial in the same fucking "technical" drawing.
Ok so explain the roller thing to us, i'm pretty sure bikes have wheels... that roll...
if you are 6" and bmx's are pretty light weight, you could just put two hook on the celling and hook the wheels through them, a lot easier, tidier, cleaner still saving space on top of the cupboard which you could use for decorative crap.
>1000 hours in ms paint
It has wheels but they won't stay still while you try to push it up there, the cupboard is pretty high. I'm thinking of having a tray that slides out and over with mounting points for the bike, then just push the whole thing back up and down, simple.
I can do any of the welding/engineering, just need to think of the best way to go about this.
what about something like this
not the guy, but it would take up to much room, he wants it off the floor and walls so as not to interfere whatsoever
yeah thats what i thought you meant. just do the maths, make sure you got enough room.
I still think my 2 hooks from the celling and hang it from the wheels is the best, simple, problem free, cleanest and cheapest option.
So now you have a tray, and mounts you have to push your wheels into, you have to hold your bike upright and push the tyres in. do you have enough room for you, the bike, the mounts and the stay?
Remember things get longer as you pivot them. well fuck, yeah you have the pivot as well or hinge.
My idea = two hooks, 6 screws maybe? cool looking upside down bike. easy to put up there an take down.
i was kind of thinking that he could mount it to the wall above the cabinet to secure the bike when it's up there, the only thing he needs to get it there in the first place would be a step stool or a small step ladder, the kind that folds maybe
Just an update on my salt'n pepper mics. Salt mic is done (piezo crystal mic cartridge). Came out breddy sweet, sounds lovely too:
It's partner "Pepper mic" (made with a carbon granule cartridge) won't be done till next week because I'm still waiting on components and building the circuit is gonna take some trial & error.
Just got a new project
Got to make a 7 foot diameter metal compass to hang on a wall outside.
Should be fun, I have all the metal I need bar a length that'll cost me £8
I have enough metal to make two more as well so could make and sell two more.
Already worked out measurements and simple design.
Seem to have lost the picture though.