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Making diecast metal parts?

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Thread replies: 12
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So I want to do a little, art project if you want to call it that; I want to make a transformer action figure look more "realistic". Basically what I want to do is replace virtually all the plastic pieces with die cast metal equivalents. Other things I'd want to do is make working pistons, wire leds, and perhaps somehow incorporate silicone and faux fur for the "beast mode". If I'm ambitious, later on I might re-engineer the toy entirely to include more points of articulation and better ways to cleverly disguise the robot mode when it's in beast mode. BUT, baby steps!

There are a few glaring things I'd need to solve but the first obstacle I'm facing is making the die cast parts. I found this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9UwQ6MR00o
I think this demonstrates a way I could probably approach the task. My question is; what sort of plaster would I need to use to achieve this? Is there specific plaster used for making diecast metal parts? I think I would make the mold in 2 parts so that I could get the plastic pieces out. I would probably need to machine the parts a bit and file/sand so that I can clean up any roughness left by the molding process too.

I figure if I can make die cast metal parts, making fleshy silicone parts shouldn't be too much of a challenge.

Anyone have some input?
>>
>>1095208
Homemade diecast will have shit precision. Just have someone mill it or something.
>>
>>1095217
How much would that cost to do? I'm assuming it'd include the price of the metal materials used.

Where would I seek out a service like this? I'm too used to doing everything myself.
>>
>>1095221
Prototyping companies or maybe local metals hops. It'll cost you a few hundred probably
>>
/toy/ here. This will either cost you a shitload of money, or look and feel like total garbage. Toys like TFs stopped using diecast parts for a reason: they have loose tolerance and eventually turn into a floppy useless mess. Look at vintage Gobots for a clear example of this.
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>>1095208
If you're really dead set on reengineering a transformer, look into resin casting. Plenty of people making articulated garage kits for Gundams, they've got similar levels of engineering.
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>>1095610
Resin, even when cast perfectly in pressure pots, won't be as strong as injection molded plastic. In some ways it might be comparable, but it will wear faster and it will warp more easily (warp under significantly lower stress).

Literally SLS 3D printed nylon parts will hold up to stress better and for toys it's probably preferable to most options short of milling hard plastic into joints.

Most articulated garage kits, especially Gundam ones, use some existing commercial plastic frame, usually from a Bandai model kit, so making joints isn't an issue for the artists.
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>>1095457
I had an itching feeling getting them manufactured professionally would be pricey.

>>1095517
I can see what you mean, and thinking about it more carefully that does make sense and is a pretty big issue. Couldn't you avoid that problem by placing rubberized gaskets at the joints and whatnot to provide the needed friction?

I guess, I could just repaint the plastic parts and make them look like metal using an airbrush. I'm not about to spend well into the hundreds of dollars just to make a toy look and feel more realistic. Perhaps focus more on making more points of articulation

>Fellow /toy/soldier btw, I go for the gunpla threads

>>1095610
>>1095616
I'm familiar with garage kits made of custom resin parts. If I were re-engineering the toy strictly to improve articulation or transformation, then I would probably take this route of creating custom plastic parts. I mostly just want to give it a more super realistic feel; really emphasize that it's a gorilla transforming into a robot by contrasting the cold hard metal parts with fleshy, fur covered parts (silicone base layer covered with black fur of some sort).
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>>1095699
>I can see what you mean, and thinking about it more carefully that does make sense and is a pretty big issue. Couldn't you avoid that problem by placing rubberized gaskets at the joints and whatnot to provide the needed friction?
Nylon on metal might be okay but as with all things the nylon will wear down eventually. Otherwise the stuff is pretty tough most of the time. I can't say for toy joints though, since it'll be grinding against metal quite a bit.
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>>1095701
Well it's not like I'd be even playing with the thing, I'd just put it up for display in my room along with other gunpla projects (in my backlog (that I eventually will get to finishing)). Most I'd do is change the pose on the rare occasion, I'd mostly just need it to hold up its own weight.

Surely it wouldn't be too hard to replace nylon/rubber pieces if they wear out overtime, no?
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>>1095208
I'd just buy the original, disassemble it, make silicone moulds then cast Pewter pieces.

Die Casting is generally for mass production.
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>>1095208
Not so sure about the die cast, maybe try something with a low melting point like >>1095816 suggested. My first thought was using solder since that melts fairly easily and even cools pretty quick. Though, unless you gave significant thickness to it, it would be pretty brittle.

>and perhaps somehow incorporate silicone and faux fur for the "beast mode"

Pic related had a similar idea to yours. Needless to say if you can pull it off it would look hella spiffy. Grew up with beasties too, I'd love to see more like this.
Thread posts: 12
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