Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 9. page

I tried CA glue once to laminate a few squares of paper together, it made a hard translucent plate. That might be useful for making small details.

You can get paper clay at hobby stores - i remember getting some at Hobby Lobby a while back for an art class I was in. The benefit to this clay is that you can mold it more easily than you can strips of paper in glue - it's a lot like a modeling clay. It dries hard and light too. The only problem is that the finished surface is kind of porous, so you may have to figure out a way to 'fill it in' so that you have a smoother surface to paint on. Spackle might work.

>>1239250
>So anyone have any experience with paper mache?
Yeah!!!!

> I hear a lot about flour + salt + water,
It works, but imo the best is newsprint + cheap white glue + a roue. salt never made a difference for me.

Make a roue by taking boiling water and mixing it with a tiny bit of flour. Warm or colder water won't work. Then add glue to that. Soak newsprint in it quickly and apply it to a form.

A good papier mache sculpture is made on a frame; usually, you see people just blow up balloons to make domes, and then paint the domes to be globes or whatever. Some people make boards and then tape the boards together, but making a wire frame of your model will work much better in general if it's anything more complex than a ball. Don't worry about the framing material; the paper mache will drape over it. I've heard of success with just card (like those old Puzz 3d things) but stout wire is the gold standard

Also, something I found was good was adding cheap black poster paint to the mix; it makes it consistently gray. Painting over it after will look more consistent. A shot of black, professionals, etc. I did this years ago, before the meme on /diy/ and it really did make a more consistent color after painting.

Furthermore, taking high quality quilted paper towel and using that to make the outer layer works wonders too; you can do just one coat, and then paint and sand (or just rub) it smooth. Don't worry about the texture in the paper towel; it usually goes flat with all the moisture. Honestly, the only reason I wouldn't recommend using ONLY paper towels is sheer cost. They're made to absorb, and the actual structure is more the glue mix; the paper is just there as a medium for the actual structural bit that is basically dried glue and gluten.

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Rubber strip.

Could possibly be considered mahogany colored- it's a deep red.

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I know nothing about US sockets but at a guess I would say it is / was a DC standard. In Australia pic related has become a DC standard.

>>1238983
Looks like a pretty standard ungrounded 120v 20A twist lock. I'm 80% sure they sell that exact thing at Home Depot. They probably put that on because they had a 110/125VDC source and used that, but they used the adapter to get it to run a regular outlet.

Our shop does a similar thing because we use some jap equipment that runs 300v, most of our shit is 120, and a few things can use either.

What exactly is the point of this thread again?

>>1238983
buy a new cord and install it. not worth finding a receptacle just for that.

can't tell from the motor plate, but verify it's a 110-120 motor,

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>>1238923
Here's one of the timers. This one's an Eagle Signal.

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>>1238927
This one's German, I know that much.

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>>1238928
This is the data given on the side of it.

>>1238895
Wad a plastic shopping bag up and stick it in the drain. Water pressure will seal it against the pipe.
Water doesn't go bad unless you contaminate it.
Propane stoves will do everything you need, as long as you have enough fuel and use it sparingly.

>>1238895
Do you have enough food? Water? Should you be helping your community sandbag something?

https://www.fema.gov/pdf/areyouready/areyouready_full.pdf

I live in Orlando. Is there any way to get a decent generator or battery in time? I think all the stores are out and amazon won't make it in time

I need to run a few lights and stuff but for at least a few hours

Also should I board up my windows?

>>1238833
Not enough information.

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>>1238833
sensors are
A) not aesthetic
B) not cheap
What you want is a capacitive sensor on a film.

>>1238890
Also, the capacitive touch sensors I mentioned are only touch-sensitive ``buttons''.
If you want to map a finger press on the entire sculpture to a 3D mesh, you're shit out of luck.

Should have thought of this before you built the damn thing.
At least then you could install a network of stress sensors (seriously expensive) on an inner skeleton.

>>1238765
Not enough information.

>>1238765
>as long as they're the same type.
how are you going to attach it? to what?

>>1238765

solution: kill your pet. line the closet with candles. burn your house down.

>>1238725
In 1997, Steve was chopping wood. He missed a spot and chopped off his dick, in 1997

>>1238725
tfw wood dries out faster as i get older.

>>1238725

Small and thin pieces air dry fairly quickly and with less cracking than whole boards. Cover the ends with latex paint or paste wax and put them somewhere with good air flow.

>>1238678
soldering is easy.
solder melts at high temperature, everything needs to be hot.
soldering iron is hot.
apply soldering iron to area to be soldered
apply solder to area to be soldered, try not to touch the iron with the solder.
if component is hot enough the solder will melt and flow to make the joint.
feed in solder as required, remove solder, remove iron.

get some stripboard/protoboard, like pcb but straight tracks on the back, usually orange, some jellybean parts like resistors, capacitors, costs around 0.01$ for 100 of them, an iron and some flux core solder and practice practice practice practice practice!!!!!
if you aren't retarded you will pick up the principle in about 4-6 minutes. then you can go and buy a kit to build that does something useless like an egg timer or cylon eye light.

>>1238678

I'm not aware of a single resource which I could point you towards. However, from what you list your end goal aims as, I'd suggest browsing YouTube for a few tutorials/examples of reworking PCBs as a guide. EEVBlog has a multi part tutorial, other good channels are John Gammel and for watching someone doing real world applications, watch Louis Rossmann.

The advice from >>1238681 is okay for the very basics of soldering, but won't do for much else. As a starting point, get yourself a good quality, variable temp iron which supports a variety of tips. Buy some leaded solder and flux. If you do not have flux your job will be much harder, especially when soldering big integrated circuits. Do not get flux for pipes, you need proper electronics flux which comes as a gel, or in a pen.

Watch the above vids and taht should be more than enough to get you started on soldering - some of those channels get on my nerves a bit with their style, but if you can get through them it will be worth your time.

>>1238681
>try not to touch the iron with the solder.

so the soldering iron never actually touches solder? My crap-assed iron cannot heat the part if it does not have some liquid solder on it to help heat transfer. I really need to get a proper iron...

Depends how naturally oily the wood is, if its got a lot of oil then you can just use wax over the top and it'll probably be completely fine.
A really good and comparatively messy technique is to use clear drying, high viscosity CA glue, cover the wood, sand it off and repeat a few times and it'll basically plasticise the timber making it next to indestructible, water resistant and still keep its natural appearance. (Just mask off the metal areas)
It will also sand and buff up really shiny

I tend to use spray oil-based polyurethane myself on kitchen knives as its insanely tough, it will make it a couple of shades darker though. If you want to keep it lighter try a water based polyurethane

Hijacking this thread a bit.

I have oiled a table, but now after a while I want to stain it. Since the stain is waterbased, it won't work, will it?

>>1238449
Thanks for the advice. Does CA glue bring out some of the pre-sanding colour? I can go find some at my local hardware store tomorrow.

>wire core is cracked
>it intermittently connects completing circuit
>you fuck with it
>the gap is now too wide for it to connect
Just replace the wire anon.

>>1238419
The wire is still very much live, I felt it myself.

The high impedance connection was the only thing saving some poor damaged component hanging on for dear life to receive a full current pounding that pushed it over the edge into fucked-ups-ville?
Or alternatively it could be literally anything. Any anons have a crystal ball handy?

>>1238399
Basically. It looks to be one of the shittiest kits I have ever seen but yeah, it should work. For the price, you won't have lost much money if the buttons turn out to be mushy and the joystick terrible. If it does work out for you, hey, bonus. If not, you can always build with better components when you make Mark II. Learning on a cheap kit is never a bad idea.

>>1238399
It should be ok. The controller will be but short if you don't top mount it on the panel, and the buttons, although definitely not original sanwa buttons, will work ok. I would advise making sure you have the right tools before you start... The last buttons I got were 30mm buttons, and a torn apart garage and 3 hardware stores later, I decided to just order the hole saw on the net, because I was not about to spend $25 on some overpriced shit brand.

>>1238399
I mean all a controller is made of is some buttons, a joystick and a micro controller.

>viking helmet
>horns
RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

>>1238368
>I really want to weather them to get a nice authentic battlehardened look

To be needlessly nitpicky, people generally keep the gear they rely on to stay alive at least reasonably well maintained.

I understand nords/Vikings aren't a race/class in D&D but I don't see the harm in using that instead of going out and wasting money on something historically accurate to dwarfs lol for all we know wherever dwarfs exist, they wear horned helmets aswell

Sure looks like backlight, if they are fine I'm all out of ideas sorry.

>>1238008
if its not the back light then its the BL module

>>1238050
Is that something that can be replaced? Is there a way to verify?

>>1237642
you should strap the dog to the roof, yes

>>1237642
or you could add spikes so you don't have to worry about strengthening it

>>1237732
>dog has one job, bit the chink niggers
>dog need to see his pray
>dog jumps on top of doghouse roof

spikes kill dog