Some people like to see others come back and share how things went, so post what you've done lately or what you're working on.
Finished a garden electric fence against the advice of some on /diy/. Tested with a wire and it's definitely hot, hopefully it keeps the rodents at bay.
Still have more transplanting to do....
>>1202003
That's exactly what I did for a few years before using my current system.
Building a dam at a local creek. First time working with concrete, will post pics as it progresses. Pic related - what I have so far
>>1202642
no concrete expert but I dont think it'll set right if it's in contact with the water directly. If it's possible in your situation, I would build a retaining wall out of sandbags and build the wall in the dry areas that it creates.
was cleaning my basement and found some disassembled clock parts. should I put it together? are the parts worth anything?
theyre worth nothing, give 'em here
I'd give it a go.
My bathroom sink drains super slow so I tried plunging it and this came up with what smelled like sewer gas. It's still draining slow. Pic related is what comes up
The only things I can think that are the problems are: no safety drain on sink, the roof vent is clogged or some other air flow problem, or a mega clog. The bathtub drains slow as well
This might sound silly...
But try using a strong drain cleaner?
>>1201033
remove the drain completely and use a good one
I'm getting ready to move into a new house from the mid 80's, so it had shitty dome light fixtures in the ceiling in the center of the room.
I want to make the change to an all-LED strip setup. I at least want to do one room, which would be the computer room/office.
Problem is, I have no idea how to do it effectively.
So far I know I need 5050 RGB LEDs which are the ones that have the different colors. But I know I'm going to need more than one set, so I need a hub to connect them to (I don't want to have several kits each with its own wall-wart adapter power supply.)
I want to be able to have one remote to control the entire set. Bonus points if I can have an Alexa (lol botnet) control it. Even MORE bonus points if I can say to Alexa "Alexa, I'm feeling like a biiiiiiiiiiiiiiiitch" and it automatically sets the color of the LEDs to a nice serene blue or something.
>>1201030
>So far I know I need 5050 RGB LEDs which are the ones that have the different colors.
Yeah you're not going to get far with just these. Fist of all, lighting is not what they're meant for. To properly light a house, you need diodes with an actual lumen rating to get anywhere further than simply breaking the perfect dark. Secondly, microcontrollers have only so many output pins. To drive an RGB LED you need three microcontroller pinouts. Even if you wanted to drive all LEDs with the same distribution of color, you'd still be restricted by the amperage rating. This is why we use dedicated RGB LED drivers. You'll need these, lots of them. For lighting an entire house with 5050's, you'd need about a hundred thousand LED bulbs, corresponding to at least 500 LED drivers of decent output. If soldering is like a walk in the park for you, you'd spend about 3 years in the fumes.
>>1201030
change your bulbs with led ones
highly efficient and nearly no heat
>rgbleds
they are for kids...
>>1201030
So for ambient lighting RBGs are great. For just every day lighting and work space lighting you will want either daylight or clear white bulbs (either LED or CFL).
5050s are only able to be set to one color for the entire strip, and controlling them with something like Alexa probably won't be possible. If you get WS2112Bs you can probably rig it to something like Alexa maybe using RPi or Arduino as a controlling medium.
t. light autist
Hello all,
I have an Ethernet cable that goes from my house to the garage. (pic related, bottom)
The cable's casing has broken at one point (pic related 1), and google just talks of fixing a broken/severed cable.
What I was thinking was using this plastic thing I remember seeing before (pic related 2), but I was unable to google it since I don't know the actual name for it. It's a small plastic sleeve that allows a cable to be passed through it one way, but the "spikes" prevent it from going the other way.
Well as you can see from the picture the "break" (pic related 1) occurs right between the garage and my house, so there's constant tension on it which is probably bad for it. I will go over what my plan to fix it is, and if anyone here thinks there's a better/less retarded way to fix it, please let me know.
Step 1 is to get two of those plastic things (pic related 2, shown in red), and connect them in opposite directions (pic related 3), using super glue or something like that, represented in green.
Step 2 is to split the now connected piece in half, length wise, being sure not to interfere with the little spikes (pic related 4, front view). Then once it's split, to press it onto the cable (pic related 4, both views).
Step 3 is to make sure the 2 halves stay together by securing them with some zip ties or something (pic related 5, in orange).
Step 4, the final step, is once the 2 halves are secured together again, I would push the cable's casing on each end towards the center of the connecting piece. My idea is that the spikes will force the ends to be much closer together, if not touching, using only friction.
This is the first method that came to mind, but I'm not a handy man, so this might just be really inefficient. If anyone can tell me what that plastic thing is called or can suggest a better/easier/equally cost-effective method I'd greatly appreciate it.
>>1200798
I'd check the impedance of the individual wires, assuming you've got some spare RJ-45 jacks lying about. If they are all normal (consult a wire resistivity chart, such as the one on the wikipedia page for AWG) then I'd consider repairing the cable. Otherwise replacing the whole thing will hardly be too expensive, provided you don't need an electrician to do it for you. This is just to make sure none of the conductors has been deformed and weakened.
Your method would put all the tension on to the super glue, so perhaps consider tying the two sides together with some thin steel wire as well. Wrapping the construction in a sheet that wouldn't stretch (aluminium or plastic?) would allow you to epoxy the two halves to it as you wrap it on, keeping the two together and using the entire area of the sheet to hold the tension, instead of the small area on the faces of the plastic pieces. CA glue or epoxy might not stick well to the plastic, so beware.
Personally I'd just release the tension on that segment with a few anchors on either side of it with steel cable between them, and cover the relaxed area with epoxy and/or fusing tape.
I don't know what the plastic things are called though.
>>1200801
Like this.
>>1200801
>>1200804
thanks for the advice, but the Ethernet cable works fine I'm currently using it now. And thanks for letting me know all the tension would only be on the small amount of superglue.
Now were you talking about any specific anchors and steel cable that would work for this? Googling came up with anchors for multiple cables, not single ones, and even then they didn't look like there was an easy way for steel cable to connect them.
Also correct me if i'm wrong, but is your suggestion of improving my method saying I'd leave the wiring part (blue in my pic) exposed? In my method I wanted to push the wire casing together so that they touch again and so the internals are no longer exposed. From what I understand of your suggestion, i'd leave the internals (blue) exposed but then cover it with plastic/aluminum to epoxy it? I didn't quite follow on your suggestion of "Wrapping the construction in a sheet that wouldn't stretch (aluminium or plastic?) would allow you to epoxy the two halves to it as you wrap it on", since i wouldn't be able to cover the whole device (wire and plastic connector) in that aluminum or plastic. I feel like I misunderstood what you meant exactly, my bad.
Basically if I were to try and do your method (anchors and steel cable) in the picture you provided, what exact materials (more specifically, exact anchors and wire) would I need that I could cheaply get from home depot or amazon? Sorry if the question is too specific, i just don't have much experience with this kind of stuff or materials.
Funny pranks you can do in a cabinet shop.
Change the bevel on the mitre saw by 1/2 degree.
>>1200637
Tie the back of someone's shirt to the lathe.
>>1200639
Ahahah if this was not a blue board i guess i'd be posting quite beautiful pictures
I suppose you could rig the dust collection to blow instead of suck.
where the fuck are my filters housed on this behemoth AC/furnace combo? they haven't been changed in 2 years. where i used to live the filters were housed inside the house itself in the separate rooms so this thing looks completely alien to me.
i meant to post this in the small questions thread, sorry. apparently i can't 4chan either
Probably in a return air grille somewhere at the other end of the big silver duct on top.
Just walk around looking for a big rectangular louvered grille in the living area of the house.
Look behind the louvered grille.
prob behind that panel
Any other expat folks have any experience with these badboys? Not having a lot of luck via Google or YouTube because the results are in Thai. No water pressure issues but the heater simply won't work now even though I've had no problems for a year and a half. Any tips?
>>1204991
Open it up and inspect it... this is basic stuff
>>1204995
Inspection reveals nothing out of the ordinary.
>>1204998
turn west
Looking for some input on my interior lightning project for my car - I've done some basic low voltage tinkering but this is where I'm getting lost.
The idea is that my LEDs would turn on with the dome light when I unlock my car, then stay on once the ignition is turned on until I park. The toggle switch is to turn them off while driving.
What components am I missing to make this viable?
>>1204642
Why not just have the hooked up to the dome light? Seems like you want to do the same thing the dome light does and the dome light already comes with a switch
>>1204664
As for the way described in the OP, do you want the switch being off to override the dome light being triggering the LEDs?
>>1204664
I don't want the dome lights running while driving, I just want to keep the fade effect from the dome light and so they turn on when I unlock the car and from what I've gathered that's the only way to keep that effect.
>>1204666
I just want the switch to toggle off the lights for driving (sometimes) as an option, by default id like the LEDs running but the dome lights off while driving.
So I got white van speaker scammed because I'm a young idiot.
Now I need to know about a project I can do with designed to be convincing but shitty 5.1 surround sound system. I am not going to sell them to someone else. They work but are super shit. Any ideas?
I have access to a soldering iron, but not micro soldering. I've never worked with wood but would be interested in getting into it.
>>1204506
> gets ripped off
> chooses to take it out on others by ripping someone else off
You are the cancer of humanity. Suck it up, accept you're an idiot, don't be a faggot.
>>1204506
>kamron audio
>harman/kardon
>same font
>mix up the letters
topkeks
>>1204511
>I'm not going to sell it
>reads I'm going to sell it
>but I totally understand how it could be missed in the format
Just to be clear I'm not going to sell them back, hombre. I just want to make like a shitty speaker stack for making cool noises with.
>>1204512
Yeah they got me good. It all happened so fast too. I paid 100 bucks for a powerful life lesson
greetings /diy/ , recently, I became fascinated with autogyros, and I think of building one myself, since it really doesn't seem that complicated. Does anyone have any experience with it? also, one particular question I have is how the fuck do you build that prerotator?
>>1204108
>Some friendly suggestions for posting:
>- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
>- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
>>1204114
I did look that up on google, although I find little in the form of actual blueprints. Tools-wise, I lack precision stuff like a fancy lathe and a milling machine. I firstly wanted to see if someone actually flew one, see how it handles, how safe/dangerous it is, stuff like that . And from a technical standpoint, If reusing a motorcycle engine is possible ?
>>1204121
Ignore the autistic pedants, anon. This is a good thread and you will get many intelligent replies along with the dreck like that guy.
And yes, a quality motorcycle engine makes a decent aircraft engine for something like an autogyro that is inherently safe by design.
Good luck and please post photos as you make progress.
What is inside of a p100 filter? I thought it's just paper basically and no charcoal as it doesn't filter out gas just particulates? I'm thinking of buying some 40mm scott p100 filters for use with my c420 papr but I'm worried about the possible expiration date. Don't particulate filters basically last forever until breathing resistance is too much because they're just paper?
>>1204084
particulate filters last forever. And one of my masks has removable paper inserts. Every so often I tap the dust out of them and reuse.
charcoal/activated carbon/ have a lifetime after they are opened, but that depends on use.
>>1204133
Thanks man, you could also use a vacuum cleaner too to get even more dust out.
If the filter has activated charcoal and it's expired is it still safe to use? I know the charcoal may not be as effective but could it break down into something harmful past the expiration date or probably not?
The expiry date for filters is only the "Manufacturer won't guarantee it matches specifications after this date" notice. Most are vacuum packed from the factory, and nothing bad is going to happen to the activated charcoal over long periods of time.
Once you open the package, though, the charcoal will start absorbing things from the air and gradually drop off in filtering ability, but for most substances the simple "Can I smell paint thinner" lets you know its working (or not). Exceptions to this are isocyanate paints, where the exposure limit to them is way below the point at which you can smell them, so for these you use fresh filters and replace them regularly, after a set number of hours.
Morning /diy/,
I've got several peripherals that require 12V inputs (External HDDs, routers, pre-amp, etc) and I was thinking about hooking up a LED driver rated at 12.4 amps to a bus bar to run them all off instead of two multi-taps.
Is it as simple as I think it should be or should I be more careful considering there is data involved? If the outlet is rated at 10 amp max, is it best to use a dedicated outlet or can I measure the amps the bus bar uses and then work out if the TV, amp, etc, can be run off the same outlet (are amp spikes a thing?)?
>>1203958
Good evening, anon.
LED drivers often have a specified output current ('amperage') and the actual output tension ('voltage') adapts to the load. Typical DC power supplies for electronic devices have a fixed tension, e.g. 12V, and the actual current adapts to the load. Apples vs. oranges. Better keep your multi-taps, it's not the right time for a bonfire.
>>1203958
I used to run all of my 12 volt shit off one wall wart because I was given/dumpster dived it all and didn't have cords. The wall wart was rated for like 4 amps though. I feel like it was originally a power adapter for a musical keyboard. Worked for me for years.
Oh. Thank you very much. Maybe I could rig up an old computer PSU some rainy day instead.
Yes, I am terrified of burning my house down. I'm estimating that I'd be running 6 amps off it, unless I add a car stereo unit for cassette playing ability, but even my highest rated adapter is only 2 amps.
Is it safe to scrap a microwave oven?
>>1204020
It looks like you got your source image from /pol/ so yeah sure go ahead.
>>1204020
Only if you follow safety procedures for handling Beryllium Oxide on the magnetron as well as discharging the capacitor. I recommend wearing gloves because of sharp metal edges everywhere.
Don't smash that pink ceramic thing. You'll know when you see it.
My toilet leaks from the tank every time it's flushed. Hell, I wouldn't even call it a leak, it just straight up flows out between the tank and bowl.
I've already tried replacing the gasket between the tank and bowl, but no luck. The only thing I can think of is putting some plumbers putty around it to try to seal it up, but I feel like that's likely to wear away and clog up the pipes while also making my toilet leak again. Also, I don't have a wrench big enough for that big plastic nut and could only tighten it by hand. Could that be the issue?
Any plumbers around here that could provide some tips and insight?
>>1203259
Nothing to do with the seal, it'll be the flapper valve at the bottom of the flush mechanism. Shouldn't be more than a few bucks to replace
It's probably the nut that needs tightened. Did you replace the gasket underneath the nut?
The attachment to tighten the nut is roughly ten dollars at Lowes. You stick it on a ratchet.
You could also try an oil filter wrench.
>>1203261
A worn flapper will just leak into the toilet. Unless you mean the seals around the valve.