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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 62. page

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File: toroidal.jpg (94KB, 1200x900px) Image search: [Google]
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Thats what it says in a Toroidal transformer i got. I want to build a small tube amp or tube preamp, will it be useful? If it doesnt, what sort of toroidal do i need for that? Im most interested in the tube preamp anyways.
16 posts and 8 images submitted.
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It's useful as a power supply mainly. What components are you planning on using in it?
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>>1215610
i want something like this.

what should i do to get 260V? should i use two of those so i get 230V from the other side? i know fuck about transformers in general so any advice will be useful.
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>>1215613
Patience please. I know what to do but I'm too tired now.

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Restoring an old Zenith pocket watch. Anyone have any good tips on polishing the .800 silver case?
>There are some deep scratches on the back
>Don't necessarily want a mirror finish.
>Will buffing it on a wheel take the etching out or the case?
16 posts and 3 images submitted.
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Here's a shot of the back for reference on the scratches
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Here's the case with the movement still inside for reference
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>>1215248
That etching is already fading anon. I'm sorry but you can't have one and not destroy the other. If you're good, you should rather restore it after.

File: DE5wrAwXcAAJmuW.jpg (15KB, 392x468px) Image search: [Google]
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So /diy/ what would be a good car to buy? Going to University soon and looking towards buying a car, which one would you guys recommend? I'm just looking for one that won't break down soon or that won't require too much gas.

Also if I want to learn a bit about car how would it go if I buy one that's kinda broken down? My dad's a mechanic and gonna assist in repairing it. So if can learn a few things that'll be great
13 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Name a price limit?
>>
>>>/o/

Read the sticky
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>>1214875

This.

>Wants to learn about cars.

Buy an old suburu with a blown headgasket, they can be had stupid cheap and you'll get to learn all about fixing up cars.

File: ThePlan.jpg (572KB, 1800x1012px) Image search: [Google]
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So I've been scouring the internet for decent guides on how to create an electric bike. I have a good understanding of what it would take to build it regarding assembly, but I need recommendations for specific components to use for optimal power delivery and speed. While I do have soldering skills and a welder, I do cyber security professionally and have minimal experience with powerful electronics. The guides I have seen usually result in weak bikes that can hardly make it up a 5% grade. From what I was able to gather the basic building blocks are as follows:
>simple no-frills bicycle
>car battery
>electric motor
Some sort of throttle would be nice as well (using a resistor or something) to make speed control easier and the power consumption more efficient. I have access to a large workshop with every possible tool that will be necessary for the endeavor. Time and cost are not a huge factor as I get paid very well and have a metric fuck-ton of paid vacation days to spare. My only goal is to build something powerful and potentially very quiet. Let me know if this topic has been covered to death and give links to useful resources or a competent guide if possible. Thank you for your time /diy/

P.S. If anyone reading this happens to be in the Portland area of Oregon and would like to help with this in person lemme know!
24 posts and 3 images submitted.
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Don't use a car battery, they're way too heavy for an ebike. Use a bunch of 18650 lithium cells
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>>1214528
Already a very useful tip, thank you!
>>
Do you want it to be legal? Most places limit motor output.

Do you want pedal assist or electric motorcycle?

Do you want stealth? Hub motor is a lot less obvious than a mid motor.

Do you have a stout bike? Bikes are not meant to have a motor strapped to them and will often get destroyed due to the power.

Are you going to add aftermarket brakes? Try stopping a bike going 60mph with 200 pounds on it with stock brakes. Look at some beefy disk brakes.

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I want to melt a substantial volume of aluminum, like something like 40 kilos or 8 gallons. Definitely on the far end of doing at home, since it would need some sort of special connection to the electric supply that could deliver the 30-50kW I think it would need.

The real question in my mind, though, is what frequency to switch at? It looks like "moderate" frequencies have become popular, but I don't know what that means. I've seen people going for hundreds of kilohertz, and seen people going for less. Does anyone know what frequencies commercial units switch at, or anything?

It'd probably be easiest to just use propane and propane accessories, but I'm worried about the cost and getting enough gas to make it work. Any thoughts appreciated.
19 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1214339
melting all at once?
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>Pay a scrap foundry $20
Problem solved
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>>1214339
Whynot build a refractive cement cage, use a thermoelement made from regular ass steel,
and put a lid on it?

Easy kicks mate,

File: Moturrr.jpg (143KB, 777x591px) Image search: [Google]
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I was wondering if there are any electrical engineers or hobbyists that would like to explain how I would have to go about making an electric motor stronger?Would I have to increase the magnet size, coil size, number of coils, gauge of wire, size of the stater? Any explanation would nice. Also, do I need to prevent the connective wires from touching between coils A,B,&C? It seems like I shouldn't let them but there's no harm in asking.
23 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1214329
>making an electric motor stronger

Define stronger in terms of speed, torque, efficiency or something.

And of course wires that not intended to be connected have to be insulated by something.
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>>1214329

Pic related is for one particular voltage applied to a brushless DC motor like your picture. I assume that the outer ring in your picture is the rotor, which is unusual but works if that's what you need.

Increase the voltage and the line moves out parallel; more stall torque, more no load speed, more max power. You can apply any voltage to any BDCM as long as it does not overheat, break down the insulation, or demagnetize the magnets. Of these three, overheating is the main one that you might actually encounter.

If you make the magnets larger the only "simple" approach is to make the motor longer and that means the stator as well. This is a more efficient design because more of the copper is in the area where magnetic flux is and less is wasted in the ends. But if you are going to do this sort of thing then you need to be a motor designer and motor manufacturer and this is not the place to discuss that.

The only realistic change is to remove the windings and rewind it with heavier or lighter wire. This does not change anything about the motor or that speed torque curve except that the voltage and current will change, which might make your motor "stronger" for your particular drive electronics, but it does not change the motor's performance or efficiency in any inherent way. Second order effects might make a small difference, such as more efficient use of the slot area where the windings go, but in general there's nothing you can do to a particular motor to make it "stronger", whatever you meant by that.
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It's an enormous pain, it's actually not overly difficult with modern software, there's just no decent open source software for motor design. The electric motor industry is exceptionally scummy, they sell motor design software for $15,000, any western company involved tries to keep electric motor production and design costs inflated and they are aggressive patent trolls.

If someone could get a few programmers to work on an open motor simulation and design program it wouldn't actually take all that much effort, never found anyone interested in helping though. With modern fiber lasers cutting motor laminations isn't too difficult for low production volumes. At the moment without paying loads of money your only options are doing 2d magnetic simulations and manually working out all the copper losses and other things.

The motor design software is so obscure I have never even been able to find a cracked version to try out. http://www.infolytica.com/en/products/motorsolve/ Maybe someone here might know somewhere that has cad stuff.

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i got a nice vinyl bathmat and theres this grime underneath, is there a good solution to remove this? id like to keep it as long as i can
26 posts and 1 images submitted.
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pressurized water, enough to clean the grime but low enough not to tear the vinyl apart
or you can get down on your knees and clean it with a toohbrush
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>>1212654
mix up some bleach sanitizer using bleach, water and vinegar and soak it for a while.
>protip mix bleach into water first before you mix in vinegar as if you mix bleach and vinegar you'll gas yourself

2 tablespoons bleach in one gallon water then add 2 tablespoons vinegar pour on mat in tub with drain plugged allow to soak for a like 30 min
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>>1212667
>mix up some chlorine gas and kys
What the fuck dude

Don't add vinegar to bleach, just so it one after the other.

File: airflow feasibility1.jpg (141KB, 967x573px) Image search: [Google]
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Sup /wsr/! I just bought this mid tower case with a rear stock fan. It is my only ventilation so far. Im planning to buy additional fans sometime this week. (See pic related)

Im familiar with airflow concepts. (Cold air goes in from the front/bottom. Warm air goes at the rear/top.)

My question is, is it worth having 2x120mm fans at the top of the psu shroud?
Will it improve/disrupt airflow?
Will it potentially improve dust build up? Should I use a high airflow fan or a static pressure fan?
Should I consider going for negative pressure or positive pressure?

Case: DeepCool D-Shield
Cpu: Pentium g4560
Board: Asus h110m-k
Ram: 1x8gb HyperX Fury DDR4
Psu: Seasonic S12ii Bronze 80+
Gpu: Palit StormX 1050 Ti 4gb DDR5

Ambient Room Temps: Around 28-30C in the morning and goes to about 32-33C from Noon till before 1800h.
I use my rig for casual gaming mainly on open world games like Fallout4 and Mobas.
I play about 8-15 hrs a day.

CPU and GPU temps at idle: 40C and 32C respectively.

CPU and GPU temps at load (gaming): 60C and 45C respectively.


I live just 13 degrees above the Equator so it's quite hot in here especially summer.
24 posts and 4 images submitted.
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Positive/negative airflow is a myth, just put your fans on the places marked in that pic. I have the same setup and it works great.
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>>1212306
>>1212314
This is a slow board. No need for bumps that frequently. You'll probably not get an answer for a while, as in check back tomorrow or in a few hours.
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>>1212287
Unless you are trying to cool a nuclear reactor, two fans at the top/rear should be all you need.

If the ambient temperature is too high for 2 fans to keep your system cool, then what you need to do is upgrade the heatsinks and fans on the CPU and GPU. Adding more airflow to the case won't mean diddly doodly until after those are upgraded.

Adding one to the PSU might help extend it's lifespan though, not a bad idea there.

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Who's got solar?
How much?
What are you using it for?
261 posts and 35 images submitted.
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I have it on the roof of my shed so my freezer full of hard earned venison and trout doesn't go to shit if there's a powercut. It's also out of sight and makes me $50 a month.
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>>1200169
Every time I think about getting some panels, I have to sit and think about what I'd actually use it for. My electric bills are never over $40/month. Last month was $29. There's also no net metering in this area due to coal lobbyists. There used to be net metering, but it was only money taken off your bill. You didn't make money. Now that is gone too.

When I do need power, I need a lot of it for a short time. The battery array needed for that wouldn't ever pay for itself.
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>>1200169
I wouldn't want to be near those with a lawn mower and then there is theft to consider.

File: 1499394026030.jpg (9KB, 320x320px) Image search: [Google]
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hey guys, serious help... How can i recover my Hotmail account?
i've lost the recuperation number and the physical phone too, and i've not put any other account to recover the original one...it's a very important account and i really want it back, i don't remember the password.
i want to call with Microsoft but i don't know where can i find they number
7 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1216278

I have a similar question: if I go with two-factor auth using my phone, and my phone breaks, how the hell do I get back into my account? If it can be done, then doesn't that defeat the whole purpose of two-factor? Do they send a physical letter to my residence, which is not known by many online accounts anyway?

Everyone says 2-factor is the best if you don't have a physical auth like a dongle or iris scan, but what if the phone breaks?
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>>1216278
We're not helping you break into your ex's mailbox. If you're not lying, you're a fucking idiot for relying on a third party to store critical information, much less hotmail of all fucking places. Hit their support link and roll the dice, when they tell you to gtfo learn the lesson and move on.
>>
>>1216280
You put your sim in your new phone and get your key. Not hard.

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Hey /diy/, I'm building a Raspberry Pi robot (my first project on RPi) and I need your advice. I want it to continuously measure the distance between the robot and any object ahead of it so it can know when and where to turn. Are those components good enough or do I need anything extra for it to work?
8 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1215911
check your circuit diagram and make an inventory of required parts, then compare.
for one you are missing a raspberry pi.
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>>1215929
I do have a Pi3B but only that. No other components.
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>>1215911
>orders 10 resistors each

I don't know the name of the pieces I'm looking for, let alone where to find them.
I opened up an external hard drive in order to use the connector for several old drives, and I'm looking to find where to buy this circuit board, cable, and also casing, rather than switch it around every few minutes. Anyone have a clue? I'm guessing a company like Jameco or Mouser would have this.
9 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1215889
>and also casing
you just want a single 2.5 inch hard drive enclosure?
>>
>>1215891
Just to be sure, since I don't know the specific language, I'm speaking of plastic enclosures.

These pieces are sold together, I take it?

And 2-4 would be better.
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>>1215895
I bought several years ago. They come as a kit, with case, connector ribbon, circuit board with integrated cable socket and cable and anything else you need. Bought mine off Amazon. Search for enclosure like the other anon mentioned.

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HEy /diy does anyone of you here know a place where I can buy unicolored, flexible, ultra thin and cheap OLED foil?
10 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1215848
pretty sure you can't, unless you mean something like a led strip.
Anyway generally leds are monochromatic, they make polychromatic leds by "staking" more led in series in the same device and/or coating with fluorescent materials.
>>
>Ultrathin
>OLED
>CHEAP

Yeah, good luck with that champ.
>>
>>1215908
>And flexible

File: 2_way_switch.jpg (26KB, 1000x1000px) Image search: [Google]
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I've currently got a light and a switch, simple.

I want to turn that one light into two lights (I've got all the fixtures) and put in a double switch.
I also want to move the switch a fair distance (I also have cabling to run)

I was thinking, use a 3 pole terminal to remove the first switch and run cabling to where I want the new switch.
I would now have 1 live feed coming into a double switch.
1 switch wires to the first light, the second to the the second.

If this makes sense, please will someone confirm my logic - also if you could do me a circuit diagram that would be great!

Thanks!
9 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>1215792
You would still need a 3rd wire minimum to go to another light. 2 wires can't switch 2 lights.

Although I may be misreading your post. I'll draw a little thing, hold up
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>>1215811
What I assume you have.
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>>1215814
What you'll need. You have 1 hot in that can be split, but you need 2 separate outs to go to 2 lights. This means 1 new wire, which is pointless, so 2 new wires.

File: 15009498444001126973491.jpg (2MB, 2576x1932px) Image search: [Google]
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i was out walking the other day and i found a broken hoverboard, the ones with 2 wheels. the aluminum frame was broken so thatd why i assume the threw it out. anyways, since then ive salvaged the 2 motors/wheels and thr battery pack, and i was thinking about bolting a sprocket to the end of the wheel and chaining it to my bike to effectively make an ebike. i have a few questions.
1. whats the best way to drive the motors? ive looked up videos of people driving them with just the 3 thicker wires, but do i need to use the 5 pin connector to use it safely? is it just 3 phase power? what sort of driver should i get?
2. how should i charge the battery? its a 10s, 36v li-ion battery pack made of 18650 cells. it already has a board on it, so could i pump 36v into it anf have it charge itself, or will i need a more specialized charger, like an imax one?
i appriciate any responses and there will be plenty more pictures posted
20 posts and 3 images submitted.
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File: 15009499188471377806923.jpg (2MB, 2576x1932px) Image search: [Google]
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heres a picture of all the connections comming out of the hub motors.
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File: 1500950142025855705589.jpg (2MB, 2576x1932px) Image search: [Google]
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and a picture of what i think is the bms, unplugged from the battery pack of course. again, any replies are appriciated.
>>
so sorry for all of the sideways photos. cant fix them now...

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