hey guys, hoping to get a little basic electronics wiring help.
I am making a model rocket "launch controller" (fucking stupid name imho, its the box with a battery that ignites the engine from a distance).
I have the wires and clips to connect to the igniter, a project box, a 9v battery clip, etc.
if i just wired one button it wouldnt be very hard, just wire the momentary switch inline on one side.
but i need to put some lighted switches before the momentary switch which must be flipped to "activate" the controller, and a small lcd voltage gauge.
they look cool, but they are functional in preventing accidental launch and letting you know if battery is dead. i am not using an interlock key, so i am putting two switches before the momentary switch for safety.
im sorry im so dumb, i am terrible with electronics.... how do i wire these 3 switches and the gauge so that
1) they light up when activated
2) the next one in line will not function until the previous one has been activated?
3) the lcd gauge comes on once the first switch is activated?
in other words,
1) power on -> switch illuminates -> lcd gauge turns on
2) arm -> second switch illuminates
3) launch (momentary) -> current passes through igniter and launches rocket.
thanks everyone, in advance.
pic related, kinda like that but a little more complex.
>>1103289
If I'm understanding it right youd just wire the switches in series with each other so that one cannot work without the one before it being activated. For the voltage just wire that in parallel to the whole circuit
>yfw OP is actually ISIS and is planning a snackbar
>>1103289
>http://www.instructables.com/id/Fireworks-Controller/
a pyro fire box (a controller for firing pyrotechnics/fireworks) does exactly what you looking for - they usually (legallly) have a key switch, thats the only expensive part - skip that? you good.
Above link is maybe bit over complex as 12 channel, just follow that and build it 1 channel - also a random first hit, maybe better, try googling 'pyro fire box schematic. or some shit for others. As other anon said tho, its all wired in a simple chain, turn on one switch to activate the next, cant go (far) rong..
Is anybody circuit bending toys? It seems like something i could get into, as I like making noise.
>>circuit bending and noise thread,
Is this a subset of earthbending?
>>1103093
Apparently it's where you dick around with electronics by shorting shit, adding components, and seeing what happens.
It's beyond me exactly what this would achieve.
>>1102992
I built this thing a year ago and am working on a new version for the Moog circuit challenge right now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tJvaH2gRwj8
I've been fucking around with VCRs a lot too. You can circuit bend video as well as sound.
So some neighbors have Great Danes that they put out every evening around 6 to bark continuously until 10 pm. As has been my experience with dog owners, they ignore complaints. I called animal control but they are off work at 5 and the dogs aren't out or don't bark during the day. Before Animal Control will do anything they claim to need evidence that "will stand up in court".
I thinking something that will record the barks with a timestamp and then can be summarized in a log. Maybe a directional microphone connected to a computer recorder which only activates when barks are detected. Maybe something like Audacity with a threshold detector.
Any suggestions or experiences would be appreciated.
>>1102956
Take a video
>>1102956
Take a video of you having sex with the dogs and leave a note with the tape in their mailbox. Thanking them for leaving their barking dogs out for you to pleasure yourself with. "Yiff yiff mother fuckers!"
>>1102956
6AM til 10PM? As in the middle of the day? Its perfectly legal for them to make as much noise as they feel like. You'll have to either suck it up and stop being a millennial or move.
Anonymus, guess what it is? Lighter will help.
>>1102077
18000000 dollars says it's a bong
Bump
>>1102079
you smoked through a bottle?
Anyone here use any of these cheap Chinese step up circuits?
Want to build my own power bank because I've got some spare 18650s laying around and it seems like an interesting idea that'll also be useful.
If you don't mind, I have some questions that need answering.
Can it really do 2A 5v output?
How inefficient are they?
Which models have you tried and how did they turn out?
How hot do they get?
Can I limit the output current to improve efficiency?
I'd ask /csg/ on /g/ but I know they're just going to call me an idiot and to buy a xiaomi power bank.
>>1102052
5V to 5V is 2A. Any higher voltage is less than 2A. 3V to anything else is less than 2A. 5V to anything else than 5V is less than 2A.
No experience with them per se, but they probably work as advertised.
>>1102052
Just check the datasheet...
E.g. here you lazyass: https://www.olimex.com/Products/Breadboarding/BB-PWR-3608/resources/MT3608.pdf
> Anyone here use any of these cheap Chinese step up circuits?
Yes.
They just pack ordinary chips plus all passive stuff on a PCB and try to sell that.
It's often better than what you'd design in for even twice the price.
> Can it really do 2A 5v output?
No, check the datasheet for details.
>How inefficient are they?
Check the datasheet for details. 80รท95%, depending on conditions. Chinese passive components (e.g. a cheap inductor) can decrease that.
> How hot do they get?
Check the datasheet for details. Depends on use conditions.
> Can I limit the output current to improve efficiency?
Check the datasheet for details. There's a plot, you'll see where's the peek efficiency.
>>1102368
Yes but how to limit output so device doesn't draw more than, for example, 1A?
Also could I replace the inductor with one from an atx psu or laptop charger for better efficiency?
How can I assemble this as one piece.
>>1101823
The spring should have end coils to hold it in the two holders
>>1101828
the closes thing that comes to mind in the function that im trying to achieve is a toilet paper holder, even though thats not what this is for.
>>1101842
Well then what the fuck is it for then?
My is a diy guy and has expressed that he'd like a auto-darkening welding helmet (for MIC welding), so that's what I plan on getting him.
I wasn't quite sure where to ask, so I thought I'd ask y'all. What makes a helmet good? Money is no object
I bought this Optrel E680 and I fukken love it. Made in Switzerland. The controls for the lens are on the outside so you don't have to remove it to change settings. Also the only auto-darkening hood you can safely weld overhead with because of the rounded cover lens.
>>1101048
>What makes a helmet good? Money is no object
There arent that many real features to an auto dark helmet.
Solar panel probably being the biggest one so you dont run out of batteries when using it.
I mean they all have sensitivity and delay settings. You are paying for clarity.
I have the Jackson Balder and its one hell of a hood.
SpeedGlas is really popular, Miller makes some decent ones.
there's really not all that much to them and a lot comes down to personal preference. higher end ones will have more shade settings so you can really fine tine how dark they get.
personally i look for a decently large viewing area, shade control on the outside of the helmet and a padded headgear. the headgear itself is pretty important as that's what will usually break
Aktion 14f13 edition
Old thread >>1092815
Still new pasta, feel free to contribute.
>general info
https://www.3dhubs.com/what-is-3d-printing
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker
>open source community
http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Machines
http://forums.reprap.org/
#RepRap @freenode
>buyfag buyers guide
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
Any cheap chinkshit kit
>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)
http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index
>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
>how to calibrate
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_Wb0i0-Qvo [Embed]
>where do I get files to print?
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://www.youmagine.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/
https://www.myminifactory.com/
>what programs do you make your own files with
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
http://www.freecadweb.org/
https://www.blender.org/
http://www.openscad.org/
https://www.onshape.com/
http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview
>what kind of filament do I want
Begin with a roll of known brand PLA before moving to more demanding materials.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/28-material-guide
http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare
>Hotends
e3d and its clones
>SLA&DLP
http://www.buildyourownsla.com/
http://www.nanodlp.com/
>SLS
http://sintratec.com/ A SLS kit.
>post processing (sanding painting etc.)
links
First for delta bots
finally found the time to assemble the Anycubic Kossel plus I impulse bought on 11/11
Pleasantly surprised by it's build quality considering the price.
Still need to properly level the bed/towers and am also getting slightly (~1%) over sized prints.
but considering I've only spent about an hour and 4 cubes on calibration so far I can't complain too much.
Luckily the chinks decided to ship it with some frog green PLA so the choice for the first "real" print was obvious.
The next step will be to install a heated bed so I can print all the quality filament I also bought (and spend almost as much money on as the printer itself)
The next upgrade will be the controller to a 32bit one running smoothieware and also better stepper motors (0.9ยฐ), drivers (tmc2130), and a new psu (36V motors, 24V hotend and 5/3.3V electronics)
I also plan on experimenting with a compressed air cooled hotend to get rid of the heavy heatsink and fan
Oh and it would also be nice to replace all the injection molded plastic parts in the frame with aluminium ones for better rigidity
the effector design is also rather shitty with large offsets between the mounting points of the arms, would be great to get magnetic joints with only three points of contact to eliminate backlash and tilt.
After all those upgrades I'll only need a bit of alu extrusion to build a second printer from all the parts that have been replaced.
>>1099630
close up of pepe
anybody got tips for printing PET?
So this year I received a lovely PO-20
More info: https://www.teenageengineering.com/guides/po-20/en
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5PvXQq3DVQ
It's a lovely thing, but I feel I would do well to have an enclosure for it. The only problem with that is its price. It's ยฃ30 - a touch excessive for a case. So I feel I should make one.
What would you guys do? Cardboard and duct tape? Lasercut perspex? Cast aluminum?
>>1105295
I wouldn't buy it, I wouldn't use it, and I wouldn't make a case for it, also, kids would buy all kinds of expensive toys, and even more expensive accessories with those toys. If you want an enclosure for it, you can use cardboard, duct tape, laser cut whatever, aluminium, or whatever you have, if you have to ask, you ain't doing it yourself. Also that thing looks rather shit, literally a overpriced hipster gift that is taking up carbon footprint for nothing.
>>1105297
Thanks for your feedback.
Kind of shitty that it doesn't come with the case and you need to buy it extra if you are a "pro" user.
Hey /diy/, Anyone here have any experience dying their own clothing? I plan on dying a few pieces, any tips?
Pic related, it's the dye I bought today
nope
I used it a few times. Works alright on wool and cotton; doesn't really soak into synthetic fibers. It'll fade after several washes. I think washing with cold water helps avoid this.
Tinting plastics doesn't work at all for me even though lots of people on the internet say it does.
I used to tie dye shit all the time when I was a kid.
>tips
It depends what kind of dye you are using and the fabric.
Old fabric is best to use because it accepts the dye more. Lets say you are dying a white bedsheet, you will have to boil some water, throw the die in, put the lid on and let it boil for a bit.
As I said new fabric doesn't like to be dyed so make sure you are using used fabric or try to wash it several times to get it ready, you can use soap or not it doesn't matter. Just wash that shit.
Other than that it's pretty straight forward.
If you ar tie dying, don't use just rubber bands,
Get some yarn
A hypodermic needle
Plastic bags
Rubber bands
Whatever..
Take a plastic bag and attach it to the item with a rubber band, like put it over one of the ties, this prevents the dye from dying inside the plastic, then fill the hypodermic needle with a different colour and inject it into the plastic.
Substitute the rubber bands with yarn for softer colour effect.
Just experiment.
Heil Hitler.
>be new to woodworking
>have a fun woodworking project
>spend a bunch of time and money on it, coming along great
>final stages of the project
>oops, make a mistake
>try to fix said mistake
>only make it worse
>try to fix it even more
>only keeps getting worse and have no way to fix it
>think about all the time and effort spent on something that i fucked up
do i just rationalize this as a learning experience or something?
Yes and no
I do the same thing as you I fuck it up until it's fixed but I have learned it's better to take a step back and work the problem with a brew or three then come back the next day
>>1105099
>>1105103
This. Or even you may have been fatigued when you.made the mistake anyway. You thought you could do it thatcwayvabd normally you can, you were just tired.
I almost fixed my wife's phone screen that popped out of he body. Fixed the body problem then Just fat fingered it at the last minute and it fell like a butterfly and cracked the screen pretty good.
>>1105099
That happens a lot in the beginning. Just figure out what you did to create the mistake and start on another piece. Each one you make will be better than the last. Never pour your heart into the first of anything you are making.
And, >>1105103 and >>1105117 are correct, take breaks and eat right. Once you have a few 100 hours of working on stuff you'll be able to get right into it for a far longer time without problems.
So I just got this sander for myself to sand this snowboard for art projects. I've been at it for about an hour on 60 grit and the design won't come off. The clear glossy layer has been removed though. What should I do?
It must be under there somewhere anon, you should just keep sanding.
>>1105025
should have used wire wheel
Have you tried a pressure washer?
what happens to my amp/awg calculations when I want to run 2 lights in series? do I need to use the same / double the awg wires? Is is best to just run two relays to the same switch?
electricity is confusing to me.
House lighbulbs aren't meant to run in series. You're splitting the voltage each of them gets (Kirchoff's voltage law). Incandescent bulbs are pretty much resistors, so giving them half the voltage means they'll draw half the current and appear half as bright. Incandescent, LED, etc are a bit more complicated and probably won't turn on at all.
You're not going to find a satisfactory result with series, use parallel
>>1104696
>giving them half the voltage means they'll draw half the current and appear half as bright
There a bunch of nonlinear effects that mess that up. Tungsten resistance increases as it gets hotter, so power consumption is roughly proportional to V^1.6. Blackbody radiation of an incandescent bulb shifts its spectrum to emit more light in the range human eyes are sensitive to as temperature increases. Halving the voltage would reduce usable light by roughly a factor of ten.
Dear /diy/, I would like to create a formidable pneumatic launcher as a first foray into design. Disclaimer: the topic complies with the board rules by not discussing weapon-specific solutions. The initial design would also be rather simple due to lack of experience.
I am looking for a resource on machine/component/object design. There are many books on mechanical design which feature loads of cross-sections of particular design details, such as twenty diagrams showing how to screw two plates together. That's not quite what I'm looking for, but would highly appreciate those regardless.
What I'm looking for is a book that explains the rationale behind choices in mechanical design (note that the structural strength of my construction is a second-rate issue here). I would like a book equivalent of an august university teacher of yore, enriching his talk with remarks/anecdotes stemming on his own experience as a constructor. Or a grandfather's general explanation of when and how to employ a particular way of securing the mutual position of two objects, or how to ensure that a connection is properly sealed. "So you see, we are going for this kind of thing, so this is one way that we can do it".
I am especially concerned with fixed joints and sealing.
I can understand technical drawings to a certain degree.
>>1104641
yeah, you aren't going to find a machine design book like that.
You're going to see those rule-of-thumb designs choices by studying the equation that governs the phenomenon you're interested in. For example, by looking at the equations for a cylindrical thin-wall pressure vessel, you can see that the longitudinal stress will be half of the hoop stress.
Overall, you're going to need to learn some statics (basic mechanics of forces) and mechanics of materials (applying statics to ideal material ) to get the fundamentals first.
Who gives a shit about all that, just over-build the shit out of it and it won't break.
I need to make those two things stick together
glue I used failed me
any recommendations on how to do it?
or very good worldwide available glue/epoxy/adhesive... whatever is the correct term?
>>1104546
Two plastics? Modeling glue maybe
>>1104552
hole for the usb cable, and going by the edges would not feel secure as it would slip either in or out