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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 297. page

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Hi guys I have a 2000 Ford Taurus with a Duratec 24 valve 3L engine. My serpentine belt snapped and I've had a nightmare trying to get the new one on. At first I had one that's way too big, now I supposedly have the right one but I just can't get it on. I'm honestly starting to getting really frustrated now and I'm about ready to have the sucker towed off, I think the A/C pulley in pic related is the issue and if that needs to be replaced too then I'm definitely just gonna have to let the shop handle it cause I don't have many tools or know a thing about it.


Well anyway my question is, since the belt snapped and was obviously easy to get off without messing with the tensioner, do you guys think it'd be worth paying $25 to rent the tool to loosen it? I can see where that would be the issue with the belt being too small. And if I do get it going, would it be safe to just drive it about ~15 minutes to get the a/c pulley taken care of?
14 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>1105435
Is it an auto tensioner ? On my old car you just needed a 1/2" ratchet to momentarily pull of the tension. Let go of the ratchet and it snapped back into place. Might need a pipe on the ratchet for enough leverage.
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Ha I just did this on my L4, it was much simpler. Just goes around the alternator, A/C, and on the tensioner
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>>1105435
Youll need a wrench in order to move tensioner so that the belt will fit over it. Release tensioner and it will tighten belt. Of course it was easy to get it off without messing with tensioner because it snapped.

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Woke up last night to a pool of water under the carpet spanning the length of my windowed wall. The largest pool of water was beneath the windows and thinned along the length of the trim to each corner of the wall. I live in Northern BC, so temperatures swing regularly from +30 in summer to -30 in winter. Had a -28 cold snap for about two weeks and a few warmer -4 days with snow. My instinct was that it was caused by pretty significant ice dam building on the windows from condensation, and I would like to think that the runoff melted and trapped itself behind the wall. I didn't notice and ice dams building underneath shingles or water stains on the ceiling so I ruled out roof problems. As for the window, it's a double pane wooden framed window that is no doubt in need of replacing, however, that will have to possibly wait until early spring. There's currently no condensation build-up as I placed some plastic sheet.

TL:DR Version
Any tips on pinpointing if this is due to an improperly sealed window or from a large window ice dam melt?
6 posts and 2 images submitted.
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Photo of window

Also, apologies for my shit terminology and overall lack of knowledge. I'm a young first time home owner trying not to die via mold exposure.
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>>1105424
>ice dam building on the windows from condensation
what do you mean?

>I didn't notice and ice dams building underneath shingles or water stains on the ceiling so I ruled out roof problems.
did you get up there and look?

>improperly sealed window
that's my thought; if there was enough ice buildup on the edge of the roof above the window, and it started melting and dripping right against the side of the building above the window, a bad seal could let water in....but it doesn't seem like it would have happened all of the sudden, rather over time
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>>1105424
Dry it up.

Sprinkle some flour or sawdust around it.

Next time it rains, follow the moisture trails.

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I want to build a cross between a furnace and a fire pit, but what should I make it out of?
I have all the usual stuff, like clay, stones, sand; but in case it's useful I have access to ironsand that's 56.5% iron
7 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1105266
Just dig a hole, man.
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Stick with the tried and true ceramic route. Adding the iron sand will make it conduct more heat outside of the unit, where you don't want it. If you're doing air exchange through it, consider adding a radiator and a pump. By having the radiator above the fire pit soak up heat, and another in your central air unit you could circulate heat to the rest of the house, relatively well. If that's your end game.
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>>1105285
There's a lot of variables to ceramics, which is the reason for this thread, not because I'm wondering what form the furnace should take.

When I manage to get it in place, it keeps rolling up over the little groove it sits in. I've been fighting with it for 20 minutes
16 posts and 3 images submitted.
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Also, the drain plug won't close tightly, no matter how much pressure I put on the pivot rod attached to the lift rod. How do I tighten that down? Do I need to screw the tail piece in tighter
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>>1105156
Maybe you should try using the proper size O-ring?
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>>1105156
When you O-ring can't get into the groove, use this to get it into the groove:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TX5gsKBo88

Try turning it inside out so that when it wants to revert, its force will want to roll into the groove.

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An inkjet cartridge I recently filled seems to keep drying out much faster than usual. I've used the same ink without problems in other ones.

It works fine after moistening the print head, but then goes streaky.

The only thing I can think of is that the humidity is too low.
Not sure if there is anything else to do. I really do not want to clean it out and use another ink, only to have the same thing happen.

I don't know if anything can be added to the cartridge to slow the drying time...screwing up the cartridge would be bad.
10 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1105045
Hows the contact point from the cartridge to the print head? You have some sort of "leak" (air exposure?) somewhere that caused some ink to gum up and the viscocity is now too high. Wetting the pads fixes it for a bit, but maybe you need to print a page or two of the problem color after you get it moving again to flush out the garbage? Otherwise, I always tell people to buy a laser monochrome from brother and laugh at the ink prices of plebs.
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>>1105066
it's a black ink cartridge; it was filled the same way I've filled many others, and was kept in the printer...there is a small air hole for normal operation

I'll try soaking it and printing some heavy pages to see if there was any kind of buildup
it doesn't sit for long periods of time; I don't print every day, but it does get used at least several times a month (haven't had any problems with other cartridges going bad after that short amount of time)

considering the printer cost a whole $2 and came with what turned out to be a full cartridge, I'm doing pretty well
got a large bottle of ink for $10 or so, a couple syringes, and that's lasted several years now
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>>1105082
How many times have you refilled it?
Ink has a way of settling.

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Don't you think this arrangement can support 600lbs and more?

It's a squat box. The black lines are flat bar (1/4'' x 1.5'') and the brown boxes are make-shift shims ... and the plywood (on top) is 3/4''.

Red lines are through-bolts (forgot to show lag bolts going through the flat bar supporting the plywood)
6 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1105018
Trying to make a scale for your mom?
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>>1105018
Yes it will if it is perfectly still, but the moment it moves, the four plates will buckle because there is no strength to prevent it rotating at the joint.
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>>1105068
late answer sorry, but what do you mean no strength at the joint?

which joint are you referring to brother

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I can't think of the name for this, but I need one.

It's like a chain pully with a hook on it.

My intent is to use it to double back a chain and double my pulling force
25 posts and 6 images submitted.
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Here's a better pic, I still can't find a good description that gets results on amazon/ebay
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>>1104961
But...

I can find old ones on ebay, but they only go to 1.5 Ton. I need around 8 Ton.

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"This product contains chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer."

Is there anything that doesn't have this label? I'm glad California and Vermont have passed other laws to do things like bring the lead down in brass fittings to under .25% but even when the brass meets their own safety guidelines it still has this fucking label.

I actually care about my safety so I typically pay atention to this stuff but I now ignore this California mandated label because it is on fucking everything. It's pretty much just as bad as no label at all.

Do you pay attention to this label?
29 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>1104952
Considering I saw a similar sign on the entry to a In&Out burger in Cali. Something about overcooked beef could cause cancer. probably not.
Hell, I'm amazed the warning signs don't have warning signs.
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>>1104952
afaik there are penalties for not having it if you're caught with a product that has those chemicals and there's no penalty for just sticking it on there just in case, so they just slap it on there
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>>1104954
They were talking about the cleaning products that are in use in the store, amigo. Its a blanket anti-lawyer bullshit thing everyone does now. Like how I saw a "choking hazard, small parts, not for children under three" warning on a dog bed that was literally a single piece of foam and a cover.

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I bought budget soldering pen called Zhaoxin X4. We know it burn out after not so long time, especially the budget ones.
And i was wondering, can I make heater?? Like 50W. Problem is that the heater is pretty compact, it can be no more than 3,95mm so wiring cant be done with fat wire, more like like all of them with 0,1mm wire i guess. This particular 40W (as said on the box...) is 850R resistance heater with dimensions 3,8x65mm, but soldering point can be nailed with 4mm thick.
Does anyone how many cm of wire chinks could used?
Or anyone know how many ohm/meter and thickness to use and how long wire?
10 posts and 2 images submitted.
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OP here.
It should be more like 120V cause getting source of 20V by 2AMPs is not easy.
But maybe laptop adapter could be used. Almost all of them provide like 20V / 2Amps.
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>>1104914
Why did you buy a soldering pen if you wanted a heater?
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>>1104963
I didn't wanted just a heater. im thinking about future heater when this one burnout.
But i can see there is nowhere to buj this kind of wire, like 1k and 1 meter long and about 0,1mm diameter. I am condemned. Or to use 24V heaters and try to use some adapters...

I have a friend who is building an electric motorcycle and wants a good place to buy lithium-ion batteries. Does anyone know any online store that sells good batteries?
9 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1104608
The goto is hobbyking

Lower prices in the Asian storeally but slow shipping.

Faster shipping but hire price in the American warehouse
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>>1104608
Use power tool batterys or a golf cart battery.
>>
You can't just put lots of hobby batteries in a motorbike. With the amount you will need complex battery management and cooling will be needed.

I have some "soft" iron.
Whats the easiest way to turn it into iron fillings?
15 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1104606
File it
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filing isnt easy unless you have an electric rotary stone file like this.
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You go to your nearest auto mechanic and pay him for his brake pad shavings.
With any luck he'll have a few gallons worth.

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Anyone help to make a bldc like this ? I need to know, how I make the stator of the motor, cnc machine or anything else ? It gonna be 1kW but 48V or 96V ?
12 posts and 3 images submitted.
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No clue, but is it really worth the effort when you can bodge an electric bicycle hub engine into a different wheel?
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It is not only personal, for the university project
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I know how to make it, the stator must be made from thin laminations made from special metals. An even better option is special powdered metal that is sintered. They seem to sell blank blocks of the same material that can be machined. Standard ebike laminations wont be good enough.

You will need a custom motor controller but there's no need to buy the silly $10,000 solar car ones either, diy is possible.

Let me know if you want more detailed info.

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Hi, my pool recently started getting these suds all over the surface. I can make it go away by mixing the water up a little, but it comes back after a while. I have no clue whats causing this.

Any ideas?
21 posts and 4 images submitted.
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>>1104547
Change the water...
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>>1104547


You can try schocking the pool, and/or hooking a protein skimmer up
But i would suggest
You need to drain the pool.

Bleech it.
Refill and shock.
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Check the ph and stuff. Likely some chemical balance issue, or something growing in it
Or an issue in the liner itself.

What do I do with this bigass glass vase?

Dimensions L=24in Diameter=7 in
16 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1104140
Make a duper bong!
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>>1104140
Use it to put odd nuts, bolts and washers in
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>>1104140
Fill with cum, post on /b/

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Hey /diy/, I need some advice on making a grappling hook (something like pic.) and I also need advice on what materials to use and some filling on the process of welding all of the spikes and the ring part together. (I'm rather new to welding) My plan is to use 12 inch nails as the spikes of the hook, are they usable for this kind of a project or should I use something else?
19 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1103409
What's the application?
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>>1103419
he's obviously going bowling
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>>1103409
>12 inch nails
functionally theyd have to be able to support twice your weight, much more if say youre rock climbing then you slip and fall 2 feet. A falling body gains inertia quick.

Our site has a policy on fall protection, i believe it just mirrors osha standards, but basically any part of the harness as well as the anchor point has to be able to withstand a shock of at least 5000 lbs.

5000 lbs is a little excessive i believe, but id do research on what kind of loads this hook will need to withstand. Youd hate to almost be on top of that 3 story house about to look in the bed room windows for your 16 year olf neighbor and have it give out.

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