Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 295. page

You can't. Once it melts into the fabric it cannot be washed away. Make peace with the yellow stains, bro. Just make peace.

>>1105710
immediately douse your clothes in acetone, before the foam cures.

>>1105710
>be year 2000
>buddy walks in to work late
>wearing some thick leather work gloves
>"dude you gotta help me"
>"I got expandofoam all over my hands"
>"I didn't want to get it on anything at the house I was working at so I just threw on these gloves, now they won't come off"
>tfw it took two of us to pry them off
>tfw it took skin with it

>>1105604
>blue ground wire
blue is neutral

you fucked up

>>1105610
There was a blue one and a black one. You're saying the blue is neutral? I checked which contact surface went to which wire before I soldered; the blue was the prong in the middle that my laptop doesn't have a socket for.

>>1105604
If it didn't work before you cut the plug off you shouldn't expect it to work now unless the plug was the problem.
Could be literally anything wrong with the brick itself.
What the fuck are you blabbering about grounded laptop charger as if its connected to anything inside a moulded plastic brick for fuck sake buy a new one.

>>1105494
Sounds like motor noise. Is there a ground spot on the player? You usually need to connect it to the amp.

>>1105523
there is no ground spot on the player or the amplifier -Op here

Open it

>>1105460
Ceiling fan bulbs are shit and do this constantly. Get some LED bulbs and you'll be fine.

>>1105460
how old is your wiring?

You can receive satellite signals.

>>1105323
its a reflector/concentrator

find the point where rays converge and put your target there (antenna/ants/etc)

>>1105323
Collect more and make a radio telescope array.
Make a solar death ray and use it to power a Stirling Engine.

>>1105166
My husband.

>>1105166
This >>1104666

Some crapsman wrenches. cant complain about what you get for free though

>>1105164
>You fellas?
I got a nice Stanley bench planner.
Still learning how to use it, any tips?

Is that the negro set?

>>1104274
http://www.homedepot.com/p/True-Temper-Axe-Wedge-Pack-2175900/100148192

File: IMG_20161225_120356_858.jpg (969KB, 1544x2795px) Image search: [Google]

969KB, 1544x2795px

>>1104275
erm... not really what i'm asking. Already have a few wedges for when i mount the axe back on it(which probably wont be for a week or so. Still gotta clean up the actual axe head too. Pic related. Its soaking in vinegar right now)

>>1104281
stick another wedge in until it fits
cut the extra
glue it will with a really good quality glue
sand the head
cut it in half with a hacksaw
stick another wedge
and a shim or w/e its called and youre done

File: Tudor-England-House-Style.jpg (170KB, 1200x838px) Image search: [Google]

170KB, 1200x838px

The only thing I can think of that suits overhangs like that is Tudor style wood/plaster work. Even as a façade it's probably expensive as dicks. Could really look aces though, especially with the brick. Like a proper renaissance-era London home.

>>1103778
that's actually what i was thinking, covering the second story with stucco and having tudor style accents. the cost wouldn't be that bad, more than siding, but not prohibitively expensive.

the major problem i saw is the extra load from the stucco. 4' x 10' sheets weight 100lbs, and i'd need about 10 of them per side so i'm talking about 1000lbs of extra load that is overhanging 2'. i just feel like that would cause deflection sooner or later.

the alternative i guess is to use vertical siding panels and alternate every 4th or 5th panel for a dark brown colored one, but it wouldn't look as nice.

Why would you? It's such a nice building, whatever coverup you do it'll loose its dying dreams flair

Monitoring this. I was going to make a similar thread. Same situation.

File: fff.jpg (22KB, 480x360px) Image search: [Google]

22KB, 480x360px

>>1103603
Yeah.. looking to build one room +loft but since i was born in 1993 am completely useless outside breaking down boxes at NAPA

>>1103601
All you need to do is watch YouTube videos on basic framing techniques. That's nothing more than a glorified shed. You can research literally every step in building a home on YouTube.

>>1102638

Plenty for just that, and some tooling for them on the side.

Bit of an odd combination of tools, though. The drill press is a necessity for ANY sort of shop, but the router's not exactly a general-purpose tool, being limited mostly to finishing edges and slotting/mortising. The scroll saw is just way out there, since it's shit for anything except scroll work.

What exactly are you wanting to do? It's generally not a good idea to be buying tools unless you know what you're going to be doing with them.

File: maxresdefault[1].jpg (66KB, 1280x720px) Image search: [Google]

66KB, 1280x720px

>>1102638
>Is my budget enough to buy a good scroll saw, an alright drill press and a good router?
New? Maybe. Used? Definitely.

>Good Scroll Saw
The old Delta 24 inch can't be beaten. They made it basically unchanged for about 50 years. The named changed more often then the design did. First, it was the De-luxe, then it was the 1200 and finally the 40-440. They can be pricey but they are top of the line. They also made several smaller one, all of good quality. Just don't by anything made by them after 1980 or so.

>alright drill press
Just about anything with Delta, Delta Milwaukee or Rockwell Delta on it is solid. Walker-Turner made many find drill presses. As did Atlas. Many Craftsman machines were rebadged version of the above and were also solid. Every company made some turds here and there so do you research.

Routers can be had cheap. In another thread, I mentioned getting a 1.5 HP B&D router from the early 70s for $10. It's a solid machine. It's the bits that are murder. Depending on what you are using it for you might also look into getting a used shaper. A shaper is to a router what a drill press is to a hand drill.

Post your nearest CL and I will have a look at whats available.

If you are only going to go for new machines then you can easily drop half you budget on a decent drill press. That crap you see in most stores can't drill holes straight because they are all made in the same factory in China and just rebadged.

Even at that small a solid little table saw would be great. and a compound miter saw.

Scroll saws are fun

Drill presses are a very good tool to have for any size shop. I have 2 myself. 1 floor mount and one bench mount.

Then there is always the basics like a combo square, hammer, set of screwdrivers, wrenches ect ect ect.

Can save a lot of money by looking for good finds at car boot sales.

Yep. Not too happy with some of the other discussion forums though.

I recommend watching this youtuber by the name of joerg sprave

File: nut remover.jpg (51KB, 600x600px) Image search: [Google]

51KB, 600x600px

>>1102578
i'll just post this now, just to get it out of the way.

File: 1482347836300911192952.jpg (898KB, 2048x1152px) Image search: [Google]

898KB, 2048x1152px

>>1102253
I'd recommend stepping up to the hammer drill & impact driver kit. Pic related.

>>1102255
My budget had been stretched already. I'm just a student so I can't further stretch it.

>>1102253
>Makita
>first drill
That's like doing your driver's license in a space shuttle.

Just go to Lidl, their drill is good for a first-timer. If you really need a cool name on the drill, get the cheapest, proper-size Bosch.

>>1101210

Just about anything you'd use a 3hp router for...

>>1101221
Yeah, I mean if someone hast this spindle and can say what they're milling. I'm an electrician not Mechanic so I got no experience. I have a calculated force of 3760N per axis so maybe 3000N. The spindle will be water-cooled with 4500l/h so I can go down with the rpm. I still did not buy everything as I'm still trying to get the big picture. Pic related, cnc 6040, should be quite the good and sturdy frame for the price.

>>1101278
And I have a good inverter from SEW with boost function for torque at lower rpm.

>>1101121
What did the penis pump do? Is the window accessible? If the latch is sloped so the door can close when simply pushed, you could try bending some <12 gauge wire into a square missing a side, with side length being about twice the thickness of the door. Rotate one end of the wire in the gap between the door and the frame to hook it around the latch, and pull both ends away from the door. If it contacts the slope of the latch, then it might push the latch back into the door and allow the door to open if you pull on the door handle at the same time. May require three hands. If your door opens away from you, then I'd suggest spending the rest of the week watching youtube lock picking videos and practicing on a padlock or other door.
Best of luck!

>>1095506

>>1101121
get wagecuck job and start saving for apartment