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Eternal HEMA General

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Thread replies: 159
Thread images: 15

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Historical European Martial Arts Thread
Please keep it kind and on topic. Also no SCA/Reenactment please.

Essential Information:

http://www.communitywalk.com/user/view/81443
https://www.zeemaps.com/map?group=619536
http://hemaalliance.com/?page_id=686
http://wiktenauer.com/wiki/Main_Page
http://www.hroarr.com/
http://www.middleages.hu/english/martialarts/treatise_database.php


last thread >>820233
>>
hey anon, are you into martial arts?

thanks for asking. im actually well versed in classical martial arts from europe.

>Europe
>martial arts
>pick one

>this is what a hematard looks like

pick an actual martial art faggots
>>
>>891054
Translation please
>>
>>891054
>Martial arts are codified systems and traditions of combat practices, which are practiced for a variety of reasons: self-defense, competition, physical health and fitness, entertainment, as well as mental, physical, and spiritual development.
>Although the term martial art has become associated with the fighting arts of eastern Asia, it originally referred to the combat systems of Europe as early as the 1550s.

Also learn how to write.
>>
I need to learn something about the physic and mechanic of the arming sword, do someone of you have a link, pdf, infopic or something? Thanks bros
>>
>>891072
This might be helpful to you: http://www.peterjohnsson.com/category/notebook/
http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=23706
>>
>>890972
Virgin duel isnt a sport
>>/k/
>>/toy/
>>/wizchan/
>>
>>891100
>oh look, fake&gay man opera said something
>>
What does it mean if somebody says a longsword is "long enough for Meyer"?

Did Meyer use longswords that were unusually long? How does that affect techniques?
>>
>>891054
>>I love wrastlin
Faggot
>>
>>892311
IIRC Meyer is the one with the pommel reaching your armpit if the point is on the ground. As far as i can remember earlier stuff doesn't specify, but they quite likely used shorter swords.

I don't think any technique in a longsword treatise is impossible with any of the common lengths, but some just work better with longer or shorter swords.

Also shorter swords tend to make grappling more important.
>>
>>891099
Cool links, thanks
>>
>>892355
Isn't Vadi recommending the same though ? Pommel_in_the_armpit_long_longsword I mean. Granted it does seem to be the longest recommended though.
>>
>>892355
>IIRC Meyer is the one with the pommel reaching your armpit if the point is on the ground.
>>892607
That indeed is Vadi. However, Meyer, which is a master of the later German school (Marksbrüder, Freifechter), prefers a longer blade than the early German school (Liechtenauer). Turns out that nipple height (armpit) a la Vadi is a good rule of thumb.
Fun Fact, the Albion Meyer, despite being an otherwise excellent blade, is way to short, hence it never catched on as a Feder.
>>
Are ringen or abrazare practical for modern self-defense?
>>
>>893132
Abrazare might be, but it will be hard to find a group training on a serious level. If self defense is your first priority, you are likely better off with something like Muai Thai.
>>
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Hearing Matt Easton say "massive fuck off beard" made my day.
>>
So can somebody give me an overview of the various clubs in London? What are the clubs, which ones are good, what stuff do they do?
>>
>>893132
yes the human body hasn't changed. It's essentially just wrestling. Which in most of Europe is quite hard to come by.

It's better for sport, fitness and strength than self defence. Really if self defence is your main priority HEMA in general isn't really your best bet. Especially if you're in a country where brutally killing your assailant gets you in hot water.

For the vast majority of clubs who do either it's just a supplement for fencing as all fighting comes from wrestling according to the old and the dead. It is a good litmus test for a clubs quality mind you as wether it's taught well or not is much more glaring to a beginner than with Longsword.
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>>895497
>brutally killing your assailant
You've been having that langes Messer vs knife mugger fantasy again, didn't you?
>>
>>895537
wait, weren't messers supposed to be monofilar?
>>
wwe is so gay
>>
>>897210
>monofilar
Whut?
>>
>>911259
one edge only
>>
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>>897210

The tip of the blade can be double edged
>>
>>897210
>>911503
>>911578
No, edges or blade-forms are not relevant for the Messer, it is the handle that makes a Messer. The one in the pic is a replica of a historic original from a museum in Danzig
>>
>>893132
>>895497

Another problem with medieval self defense techniques is that the knife defense is practically useless in modern contexts. The majority of arbrazare's dagger defense is against a rondel, which is long and generally used in an overhand grip. While an actual knife attack in a modern context is likely going to be a quick underhanded attack with a pocket knife or improvised weapon (kitchen knife, ice pick, screw driver ect.) Against such a small, irregular weapon, you'd be hard pressed to perform dagger techniques in ideal settings, let along an ambush where a knife attack is most likely to happen.

That's not to say it's completely useless. Reaction training, experience from sparring and Fiore's four masters of dagger combat (Disarm, break/dislocate arms, lock joints, bring to ground) are all useful tools, but knives are super dangerous even for well trained and experienced fighters.
>>
>>891054
>not boxing and wrestling to improve you fencing skills
shig
>>
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Guys. I want another steel. I have a Chlebowski that I absolutely love and got really lucky with on the wait times. But I want another. I'm having trouble deciding between an Albion Meyer, a Pavel Moc, a Dobringer, and a Regenyei longsword (the Number 36, not a feder). I know they're all incredibly different, but I just can't decide. I'm a slave to aesthetics but I also want something sturdy, well made, that will handle nicely.
>>
>>923188
Put Danelli on your list, scratch the Albion, except you are either manlet or women. Migth as well check out Ensifer.
>>
>>923188
I've handled a few Regenyei Feders and they all seemed very well balanced. They also survived years of training, sparring and a number of tournaments, so I guess that guy knows his craft.
>>
>>923188
Albion Meyer is too short, and screw the Regenyei 36 because of the rings guard.
>>
>>923453
>rings guard
Thats a personal preference, they acually work nice and protect your thumbs, but some purists don't like them because Muh Lichtenauer. But then, Ring guards where a thing from 1500 onwards.
Also, with the big Regenyei rings you have no problems doing a thumb grip, even with the heavy gloves.
>>
>>891054
So I'm now the Ringen instructor for my group.

I have more than ten years experience in combat sports, with a lot in folkstyle (high school/college) wrestling both competing and assistant coaching.

So for anyone out there whose groups train Ringen, what manuals do you use (if you don't just use the few pages from the manual you learn longsword etc. from e.g. Meyer)?

I'm putting together a manual for my group to use, and so far I've just been getting them through some of the basics of folkstyle. We train from Meyer, but there are a lot of gaps from what I've seen. So I'm interested in what other groups are doing.
>>
>>923579
There is a good translation (and also original if happen to speak German) from Fabian von Auerswald online. Even more, there are educational DVD's on Auerswall and Ott available from Ringschule Wroclaw.
>>
>>923246
Hooray, Meyer is too short is a meme.

Seriously there's a place for shorter longswords too.

>>923461
Apparently some tournaments forbid them too, so that's also something to consider.
>>
>>923613
>Seriously there's a place for shorter longswords too.
Indeed there is, but Meyer era? They are on the longer side usually, and Albion makes the midget version. Aside from that, nothing wrong with that blade, well, maybe the price tag is a little high for a simple Feder.


>Apparently some tournaments forbid them too, so that's also something to consider.
True, the thinking behind this was for tournaments where Ringen techniques are alowed it can be dangerous to have sowrds with rings on the ground. If you get smashed on a flat hilt sword, nothing much will happen, but if you fall on a hilt with rings you can sustain serious injury. This is indeed a point that has to be considered.
>>
>>923246
>>923453
I've heard they do take custom orders for their feders when it comes to size alterations. True or false?
>>
>>923246
>Put Danelli on your list

A clubmate got one. Big, nasty nut sitting on top of the pommel.
>>
>>923906
Yes, he really should fix that, best would be peened or than at least hide the hexnut in the pommel.
Other than that his stuff is good quality.
>>
>>923843
True
>endless waiting list
>$$$

Might as well check Ensifer or Regenyei if you need a custom feder.
Ensifer is top notch, but takes it's time and he is more expensive.
>>
>>923926
I've handled an Ensifer before. It felt handled like a 2x4. This is coming from being used to a Chlebowski which are generally really blade heavy. But this thing I remember trying out was absolutely unwieldy and awful. Is that common?
>>
>>923957
Unless you're used to really unhistorical PoBs, no. My experience with Ensifer is a really responsible blade but way too narrow for my tastes.

Same with Chlebowski really, he makes really nice flexible blunts. When he finally decides to deliver his orders that is.
>>
>>923601
Awesome, thanks.

I'm using the stuff from Meyer as a starting point, but there are gaps that need to be closed, especially ground work (both fighting there and escaping back to your feet), and a few simpler leg attacks.

So I'm spending a couple weeks giving them some basic folkstyle while until I start rolling the Meyer stuff + what I plug in into the practices. I was already looking at some vids on YouTube of some different Ringen stuff, but I will take a look at these.
>>
>>924044
>ground work (both fighting there and escaping back to your feet
Martin Huntfeltz in the Codex Danzig (90v-93r) is the only source about this I am aware of. I am not a Ringen expert, maybe someone else know more sources about groundwork.
>>
>>924078
>Codex Danzig (90v-93r)
In the Rome version of the Codex. You can find it here under armored grappling: http://wiktenauer.com/wiki/Martin_Huntfeltz
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>>923976
How are his Talhoffers? I like heavy blades and have been eyeballing his stuff for a while.
>>
>>924361
The Ensifer feders i handled were from quite a while ago, so i really can't say. They looked pretty close to the Talhoffer though i'd guess it was the light blade.

Lately we've been using Viktor Berbekucz feders and they're really cheap and have more blade presence than most, though the middle and weak are plenty flexible for safe thrusting, perhaps too much on the flexible blade, though too little on the stiff for my taste.
>>
>>924361
I got longswords and messers from them.
Ensifer is Jan Chodkiewicz from Fechtschule Gdansk, same club where Szymon Chlebowski is also from. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=esI1fIAHNgY


For the swords, they have every good quality a sparring blade can have but one, they are, likely due to the training regime at FG, a bit on the heavy side. They are balanced, flex well and handle well in the bind, the PoP's are perfectly aligned in the handle and upper third of the blade, Pivotpoint is right at the cross.
They are well within the specs of period weapons, but they are on the heavy side for a training blade and do indeed strike a tad harder than others do. on the plus side, they hold forever.
>>
What kind of swords are the ones depicted on the I.33? They seems to be Oakeshott type XII
>>
What sort of armor should I be looking for?

Just started HEMA, and I was told to get something to cover my torso. I think he said something about a gambeson? I'm pretty much looking for whatever is in ops image.
>>
>>925982
I would say type XII or XV. Obviously there's a little leeway for interpretation but they typically had the round pommels and roughly similar blades. At the end of the day, though, it's not hugely important for practicing it today.
>>
>>926031
Spes AP jacket is what you're talking about.
>>
>>925982
>>926033
I.33 spots something between a XII and XIV. I think XV would also fit for S&B but is likely not the weapon in the I.33
>>
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Yo, new to HEMA and i got hit on thumb again making it swell up something fierce. I know the old adage of "Get good" and i won't get hit, but until then i need armor, any recommendations on gloves?
>>
>>926135
>I know the old adage of "Get good" and i won't get hit, but until then i need armor, any recommendations on gloves?
No one says that, you need gloves to do HEMA.
I assume you asked about longsword in that case you likely want something like: http://sparringglove.com/
For other disciplines different gloves are available.
>>
>>926135

Get a half gauntlet and some rigger gloves.
>>
>>926153
This. Hand hits are going to be something you can't really prevent in a lot of cases, especially tournaments or full-contact sparring bouts. Sparring gloves (affectionately referred to as "the polish ones") are fantastic. I have the hoof version with the extended cuff and they work very well. They're also the most readily available in most cases. Another popular option is the SPES Heavy clamshell gloves. They're less popular because they really do impair your movement for the first year or two of owning them until you break them in thoroughly, but they are incredibly protective.

In the mean time (since most hema gloves take a while to order) if all you're doing is synthetic longsword or something less heavy, lacrosse gloves work fine, as well as the red dragon sparring gloves which are essentially slightly modified lacrosse gloves.
>>
>>926031
The SPES jacket if you want to do cutty shit, like longsword or sabre. If you're a rapier man stick with the lighter PBT jacket, rapier in a thick jacket is ass.
>>
I'm dying to do HEMA but there are no arenas near me. wat do
>>
>>930158
Start your own club. No kidding.
>>
>>930227
>>930158
We should probably do a pastebin with the "how to start a club" advice from a few threads back.
>>
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I want to make some training rondels out of wood for my club.

Any tips or advice?
>>
>>930898
>>>/diy/
>>
>>930898
You're going to need a wood lathe.
>>
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>>930898
What I thought when I saw that
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>>934327
That was hilarious
>>
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I posted this a few threads back but I need help deciding on a BoH protection. I have the SPES trinity right now and I hate it. It's way too heavy, too bulky, and it impedes my ability to move my shoulders in a lot of ways any time I'm using my jacket. I'm looking for something lighter so I was thinking something like one of these three. I like the minimalist look of the bottom SPES cover but I feel like one of the overlays would be better in the long run.

Also getting kind of specific here. How would these fit on one of the AF 350n masks? Size medium
>>
>>937280
Get the PBT, they are good quality, offer good protection, are not overly heavy and they will fit your mask. And get a different mask if you intend for longsword or polish saber, your 350N will be problematic
>>
>>937280
>>937313

Tidbit for reference: Last week, someone got his 1600N mask thoroughly dented right in the face by a thrust.

I'm no physicist, but I'd say 1600N is the minimum here.
>>
>>937332
350N and 1600N are just a reference for the bib not for the mesh. 1600N and quality mesh is what you want for steel in general.
German Uhlmann and Allstar seem to be the most durable, Leon Paul also has a good name, but I got no first hand experience with them.
>>
>>937359
>>937332
>>937313
What would be a good replacement for longsword? My AF took a slight bend in the mesh a few months back and just today after class the rod in the back of the head tongue snapped so now it sits way too loose on my head meaning I'm going to need a new mask and BoH protection.

I know Allstars are nice but it's hard to tell which one I should go for since their descriptions and site is kinda lacking. Leon Pauls are great of course but I can't blow $265 on just the mask alone. How are the PBT masks?
>>
>>938386
For HEMA you'll want epee masks (the ones without all the conductive crap).

If you can afford it i think the Leon Paul with removable lining so you can wash it without having to toss the whole mask in the washing machine may be a good choice, though they're working on HEMA specific masks ATM.

Allstar also has something like that, though the bib can't be washed and it has some problems. The way it's attached has a somewhat pointy leather end that has scratched a hole on the surface of my jacket, and one of the velcro strips that hold it broke and i had to reattach it to the rivet.
>>
>>937359
God damnit. Bib or Mesh, nobody ever seems to agree on that. I'll try to figure it out for myself via the magic of google. Brb.

[...]

Fine, you're in the right.
>>
Best way to beat a sword and board as a german longsword? Is it basically have great footwork and use my reach to my advantage?
>>
>>938519
Wear plate.

Or do head -> leg/foot and hope he covers the head with the shield and can't see shit.
>>
>>938541
Ahhh, genius. Thank you.
>>
>>938519
Stay the fuck out of reach. If all is fair, use the Gaysler. if not, try to provoke an attack (whilst controlling the distance) and counter. Thrusting can be very effective.
If you get into the bind, you are basically allready beaten.

>>938386
I like the Uhlmann's personally. Measure your head (around the chin and top of your head) and translate it to the appropriate size. You can adapt the form a bit by kneading the mesh under your knee. Allstar the Same. PBT is ok tier, the mask has a bit of a moonface (ok thats only aesthetics) and the grill is good enough, albeit the Germans are imho a bit better.
>>
>>938496
The newton ratings are for the bib, it's the force used in the testing and certification of them.

Meshes have two levels, which IIRC are just called level 1 and level 2, with 2 being the sturdier.

To the best of my knowledge there's nothing demanding that a 1600N bib be paired with a lvl2 mesh, but it seems like that's just how things are done with the big makers. Likewise with a 350N bib a lvl1 mesh is probably to be expected.

Then people go form expecting a lvl2 mesh with a 1600N bib to thinking that's actually part of the spec, and we get all this confusion.

>>938586
>You can adapt the form a bit by kneading the mesh under your knee

And don't be surprised if you need to do a lot of it to get the damn thing to fit.
>>
Not this guy >>925982, but looking for thoughts on an arming sword or messer for i33, something that will stand up for a few years of regular training and sparring.
Albion and Ensifer are great, but a bit expensive for what they are. Danelli is similarly excellent, his basic arming and messer lack the flair of his sideswords and basket hilts- he seems more about Renaissance and complex-hilted types which don't fit with i33.
So what else is there? Regenyei has a reputation for breakages, Pavel Mov for softer blades that burr and chip easily. Lutel and Fabri Armorium seem to be closer to re-enactment in purpose, with heavier, less flexible blades. But, I'm going on reviews that in some case go back a decade. What do i33 practitioners think of the current offerings?
>>
>>938796
>Regenyei has a reputation for breakages,
That is not quite right, Peter had a problem with the rolled tips of his blades, he solved that one quite some time ago afaiaao plus always replaced the faulty blades with no questions asked.
Still I'd go for the Ensifers, they are the best sparring messers I ever saw.
>>
>Regenyei has a reputation for breakages

Bullshit. Regenyei makes very strong and reliable blades. You can find broken examples of any maker's swords. Regenyei are one of the most popular so it makes sense if there have been more breakages, there's more of them.
>>
>>938968
Again, Peter did indeed have issues with breakages when he started out, if I remember correctly the heat treatment for the rolled points left some of them them too brittle and prone to breakage.
He solved this years ago, and he replaced every blade that was affected got replaced by him at his own cost. I haven't heard of any problems with his blades ever since.
>>
>>938796
>less flexible blades
And this is kinda good if you want to train binding, btw.
>>
>>939177
No, Fabri and Lutel are stage combat swords, nothing for HEMA. As long as you stay away from the hanwei shit, a feder is not floppy and will work perfectly fine for bindwork.
>>
>>939261
Fabri armorum has options for HEMA blades, but i don't know anyone who tried them.
>>
>>938796
Go sharp or go home
>>
So is anyone else getting the Koning gloves? Just pre-ordered mine today.
>>
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>>938948
>>938968
>>938978
Good to know, I was hoping for recent confirmation that this was an old issue. I have to admit I have pic related on order but would like some idea of how far I can push it, if you understand me. And, yeah, probably not as far as the Ensifer messer. Just want to see what's out there just under that level.

>>939177
>>939261
Yeah, there's a difference between stiff to work the bind and stiff that it can't be used in sensible sparring. I'm talking arming swords, not feders, though- a longer blade has more leeway for flex, it seems so many one handers hit like stabby crowbars in effect even if well designed.
(case in point, I will admit to liking my hanwei for training due to stiffness but wouldn't trust it to even the most relaxed freeplay stabby)
>>
>>934327
This will never not make me happy.
>>
>>939922
They look sexy af
>>
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Anyone have any 'unorthodox' blades made traditionally by a smith? Things like the wicked tipped falchions in the Majdslhfojdshfshfjskie Bible and certain messers, like this.
>>
>>934327
God bless Matt
>>
>>923188
What's the sharp sword on the bottom middle?
>>
>>893647
i often fantasize about matt pommeling me to death
no memes intended
>>
>>940058
From experience training before we even had decent simulators, you can do quite a bit if you let the arms flex instead of the blade. It's not as safe and it's on the attacker to do, but it's doable.

Though obviously i wouldn't do it in a tournament.
>>
>>939922
Since i don't know what's inside i don't trust them to fit my long but thin hands well.

Maybe if they ever do custom sizes.
>>
>>943059
Regenyei, probably a blunt.
>>
>>943052
The Maciejowski Bible falchions are actually very popular in reenactment and many smiths have it on their catalogue.
>>
>>943168
Really, now?
> many smiths have it on their catalogue.
Does this mean the MB falchions are 'understood'?
I would love to see a surge of information on them. They're so unique looking.
>>
>>944779
What do you mean by "understood"? Anyway umbrella falchions whitout a point and a break-in near the tip were quite common in the XIII century, the Maciejowski one is just the edgiest one.
>>
>>945869
Sorry, I meant recess, not break-in.
>>
anyone been to scholagladiatoria? is it good? thinking about going next week
>>
>>945994
yes. It's good. Enjoy.

Every thread.
>>
>>946044
More info? What to bring? What to expect?
>>
>>946074
Sports clothes and trainers. If you're going to the one outside London expect lots of people and exercise.
>>
>>946094
i'm going to the one in london. which one is the other one?
>>
>>946129
How about you check their HP?
>>
>>946160
fuck you, you don't own this thread. i'm asking for people's opinions and experiences becuase i am curious and i don't know what i'm walking into. if you have nothing else to say then kindly stfu and let someone else answer
>>
>>891071
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4sKg18lTqw
>>
>>946232
A very large HEMA club. That does Sabre and Longsword on alternating nights. Not much to say really. Quite expensive as i remember I think it's about £12 a night. Not 100% on that though. It was my first night there so I was surprised I had to pay at all but I don't blame them they must make a fortune off one time wonders.

It's in a church hall that's pretty easy to find by HEMA standards.
>>
>>946295
did you only go once? is it not that good?
>>
>>946366
I was only in London a short time. If you want an excuse not to go maybe it's not really for you but no it's a good club. Plenty of sparring partners and high quality teaching.
>>
>>946371
Im just a bit broke so I want to make sure its worth it/
>>
>>946232
Never mind, you won't like it If you are to stoopid to lock up a simple address on a HP all that studying sources and stuff will frustrate you.
>>
You guys know swords, maybe you can help me.

Where can I find reproductions of Qin/Han longswords? I've found reference to 90+cm blades, but never a complete reproduction in bronze, and sources available are either the artifacts or the (fantastical) vases.
>>
>>947383
>but never a complete reproduction in bronze

Do you mean just a cheap repro or a combat ready one?

There's probably no market for anything beyond wall hangers or demo weapons for Wushu competition.
>>
>>947383
>Where can I find reproductions of Qin/Han longswords?
http://www.kultofathena.com/irontigerforge.asp

They seem to be the only people making Han dynasty stuff. Most of the Chinese repros go for later periods.

Jin Shi made good Han swords before they went under. It's a long shot, but you could also try to hunt one of those down.
>>
>>947383
You can ask a craftsman to make it for you, but it will cost you some good money.
>>
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>>947383
Only guy that comes to mind for good bronze is Neil Burrdige. He doesn't have anything Chinese for sale though, but it might be worth a shot asking if a decent wad of cash would make him change that.
>>
>>947070

Behold, that one shithead in every club that no one likes.
>>
>>948684
Did you find the address? Was it hard? Tell us all about it.
>>
>>948792

I'm sorry, you're talking to someone other than the guy asking for information. But please, continue to prove me right.

You are the greatest blight on HEMA at large. Arrogant, elitist assholes. You're worse than the sportfencers.
>>
>>948819
Well, you must know best, flinging shit left and right in a friendly thread.
>>
>>948830
To be fair, you started that trend.
>>
>>948859
By telling you that you can find their address on their website. I'm terribly Sorry that I have insulted you so hard and being an elitist asshole for not using google for you.
>>
>>948883
Oh, I'm not that guy. I agree that the one who asked for the address was asking for a little much spoonfeeding, but you overreacted.
>>
>>948962
>but you overreacted.

>>946160
>How about you check their HP?

Yes, I was really brutal.
>>
>>948999
Oh, actually, now that I look back at that the other guy actually started with that "fuck you".

Alright, I did you wrong. You're in the clear.
>>
>>949041
But this is 4chan. Fuck you you gigantic faggot is like a standard greeting.
>>
>>949057
Maybe, but when people just exchange fuckyous for several posts that kind of degrades the thread.
>>
>>949041

S'what I'm getting at. Not gonna make the community grow by throwing shit at genuinely interested people. Looks bad, mang.
>>
>>949169
Wait what? That guy >>946232 started the shit posting.
>>
>>949220
It's entirely possible that both of them are fucking faggots
>>
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>>949258
See
>>949057
Everyone here's a fucking faggot.

Anyway, let's talk about sword maintenance for a bit. I just got my first ever feder in recently, and I'm not real sure how to go about caring for it, or at least making sure it doesn't fall apart on me. I know generally that you're supposed to oil it after using it, but is that more complicated than it sounds? Is there anything I need to make sure I don't do, or something non-obvious that I need to do? Does the type of oil matter? I've heard some people use waxes. Do you have to be careful with leather grips, or wire wrapped ones?

And what about burrs and nicks? Do you just grab a big file and go to town, or do you have to go real slowly with some fine grit sandpaper? Do you have to treat feders differently than, say, rapiers?

What's your routine for this? What sort of stuff do you use?
>>
>>949807
Care for training swords depends a lot on your climate. If it's dry you might not need to oil them very often if at all, at worst getting some superficial oxidation. If it's wet, and specially wet and salty you'll want to oil them very often (after each use is probably a safe bet). If somebody grabs the blade with the naked hand at the very least rub some cloth over it ASAP, ideally oil it (if you're doing it after every use, just keep at it).

Burrs and sandpaper aren't friends, big ones will rip sandpaper apart. A file is perfectly fine, just make sure you're not creating any sharp edges by filing. Also sometimes you might want to hammer the burrs instead.

Just make sure it won't rip anybody's jacket by sliding, don't try to make it perfect or anything. The more you try to make it perfect the more material you'll be removing and the less the sword will last.

Personally i hardly ever oil my swords since it's pretty dry here. If there's some oxide i use an abrasive rubber to remove it then oil it. With rather extreme oxidation i grab fine sandpaper, but so far i've only had to do this to a reenactment knife that came inside the scabbard and probably didn't agree with the leather.

For nicks and burrs i have even less of a routine, but i do tend to take a good look pretty much whenever i grab the sword. Running a gloved hand over the "edges" and seeing if anything seems too nasty might be better than looking though. Also check the hilt too, i've had some nasty ones on the cross.
>>
>>949807
File the nicks out with a file every now and then, oil your blade with Ballistol and wipe off the excess, in case got rust, use a rust eraser.
WD-40 is not recommended, for this, as it does not build a protective layer.
>>
>>949807
>but is that more complicated than it sounds?
No
>>
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>>949807
After training I check for anything I wouldn't like to press into my skin and saw back and forth a bit, file it off if I find it. Otherwise the dents are left as they are.

Then I wipe the blade down with oil and that's it. Same deal for my saber and I.33 one hander, and I'd do the same to a rapier. To turn it into caring for old blades, clean off the old oil with denatured alcohol or so, then re-oil. And use something that won't leave lint or fibres or so on the blade to oil with, those can be rust initiators.

A light oil like WD-40 or 5-56 isn't ideal, it'll bugger off on its own pretty quickly. Might work for a feder though, since you're probably cleaning it frequently.

I had a bit of Japanese sword oil left over from my iaido days (and in between, caring for my various antique swords). Time proven, not expensive in any way for the baseline stuff (a bottle last bloody forever), smells nice (clove scented). But in no way necessary for a feder, you can probably get away with whatever here.

Getting your grip soaked in oil will probably make it oily. So don't. Contrary to training, the oil won't outright attack your grip though (or it'd probably come with a pretty big warning label about keeping far away from your own skin, eyes, etc). Make sure to use just a small amount of oil on whatever you're wiping it on with, if it starts moving around on its own you're using way too much.
>>
>>950720
A hint for your damaged cordwrap,

mix 7 parts bees wax with 2 parts colophony, melt it together and form sticks from the cooling mass.

If you rub it over damaged spots in the wrap they will close automatically. just give it a few good twists in the direction of the wrapping, the friction and warmth will rub the wax in and they damaged fibers line up and close the damaged part.
>>
>>926135
Just get any old hockey gloves for starters. You are probably getting hit in the hand because your guard isn't in the right place. Really make sure you are trying to catch the opponent's blade in the middle of your sword at a kind of scissors angle.
>>
>>950066
>>950113
>>950156
>>950720
Ok, then, that does sound pretty straightforward.

>And use something that won't leave lint or fibres or so on the blade
Like what, a microfiber cloth or something?
>>
Has anyone heard anything about the Regenyei montante / spadone "training tools?"
>>
>>951671
Thick paper towels work fine, if you've previously filed out all nicks.
>>
>>951671
Old rags, thats what I use my old kitchen towels, t-shirts and undies for.
>>
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>>949807
>>950720
Ballistol is pretty much ideal. It's good for leather fittings, as well. Remember, whatever oil, you just need the thinnest coating.
I've found scotch-brite pads pretty effective at cleaning up minor burrs on the edge.
>>
well here's the thing, we have only one HEMA place in the city, actually in whole country we have two connected clubs and they are literally fake, mcdojo type, cash grab, flamboyant assholes. So how could i really get into this?
>>
>>952629
Find more people and start another club.

Travel to any events you can and look for beginner classes, find decent clubs that you can visit sometime to help you start up, work straight from whichever source interests you, pay somebody knowledgeable to come over and give you a weekend seminar, etc.

So first step, pick a weapon and/or tradition. Since you're new you might screw up and end up liking something else, but that's quite unavoidable.
>>
>>952375
>Ballistol is pretty much ideal.
I use Ballistol for pretty much everything, but I think i give this camelia oil a try, long term storage and such.
>>
>>952629
NZ?
>>
>>954630
Turkey
>>
I'm practicing I.33, and I'm good enough at binding, shield striking and shit. But I have some issues at stepping out of the line.
So I guess I have to do more footwork drills and focused exercises. Right? Any tips on exercises I should do?
>>
>>955538
>Turkey
You've got to be shitting me...
>>
>>956124
http://hroarr.com/rope-drill-for-hema/
>>
>>956369
Why? I thought this was /asp/ and not /b/ or /pol/
>>
>>956497
Maybe he is just surprised that HEMA made it to Turkey, after all it is still a niche "sport".
DESU I had the same reaction when I read it first.
You could try to start with sports fencing and then switch to Italian school, bcause starting outright with no expirience is hard.
>>
Hey, I want to get a sword hema ready, but not a feder. Something that look's like a sword, as if it could be used for reconstitution. The one I got is too rigid, not enought flexible for stabing. Is there is something such as that ? Are those worse for sparing compared to the feder ?
>>
>>956641
Szymon Chlebowski made some nice ones, i believe Danelli could do it too (for quite a bit more money i'd expect), Viktor Berbekucz has a supposedly flexible and cheap HEMA longsword in his store, though nowadays it'd be considered on the short side (~120cm IIRC).

Chlebowski is good and cheap but takes ages to deliver usually (and doesn't seem to be able to give you a realistic delivery date). Berbekucz is cheap and so far has delivered in a reasonable time, but he's a bit lower quality, his crosses seem to bend and dent quite easily. I don't have a Danelli yet but he seems quite high quality from what i've seen, but you certainly pay for it.
>>
>>956412
Pretty cool, thank you.
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