What up climbers?
General Sport Climbing, Bouldering, Trad, Big Wall, Ice, etc. Climbing thread.
Talk gear, favorite crags, recent sends, gym talk, training, etc.
Anyone else hop on the REI 1 year warranty bandwagon. Used to buy my shoes online until I found out about REIs crazy return policy. Burned through a pair of solutions in 5 months, full refund, bought a brand new pair.
Basically buy one pair of shoes and blow through them within a year and automatically get a fresh pair.
Notable Recent Sends:
Gym- 2 V7 and 1 V8
Outdoor- 1 V6, 1 V8, and 1 5.11d
Been climbing under a year but have been at the gym 4 days a week since I started so I'm happy with my progression.
Also looking to get into trad climbing, picked up a set of cams and nuts. Potentially going to Indian Creek with a buddy to climb some cracks soon.
Climb on bros
Getting psyked for some gym climbing tomorrow. Actually most psyked about climbing outside again once it gets cold/warm enough.
Also trying to break through 1½ year plateau at V7 with some structured campus/lockoff/fingerboard rotation!
Nice man, for me, breaking V7 turned out to be a huge amount of hours on my V8 projects.
Eventually, I had every move so wired that it just went one day.
Currently V9 is pretty above me but I'm making a bit of progress on some gym 9s.
V8 outdoors in under a year? Smells bullshitty, but if it's true well done. I've been going to the gym 3 days a week for 6 months since I started and I'm still barely at V4. Without exception all the people I've met at V7/V8 level in the gym have been climbing for upwards of 3+ years.
I'm a really thin guy so I started out with a good body type to begin with, didn't really have to work too hard physically.
I've also been going to the gym 4-5 days a week every single week since I started.
If you think that is good, there is a kid who started climbing around 2 months after me and he is BETTER than me. He's in high school and over the summer he came into the gym 7 days a week from opening to closing. Even after school started he still came every single day until closing. He's like 17 or something and has no life lol. He climbs the same grade range as me but will get every project way faster than I can. He also almost sent a V10 in the gym before it got stripped. That was after working it non-stop for a month though.
Also my sessions are usually around 3-5 hours long depending on the day. So I have a shitload of hours in.
I know guys in my gym who have climbed for over a year who still haven't done V6 so I understand the skepticism.
I basically got into the project mindset pretty early on (around V4-V5 or so) and started making progress really quickly.
You've avoided injury climbing 3-5 hours a day 4-5 days a week? Honestly I would climb longer and more often (1-2 hours 3 days a week right now) but I've heard it's actually detrimental to progress (muscle recovery time) and you run a high risk of injury.
The only actual injury I've ever had happened 2 days before Christmas.
I was dicking around working a few moves on the gym mega proj (estimated V11-V12).
I was doing some burly move primarily supported by my left hand on a decent open hand somewhat slopey hold.
All of the sudden I felt a sharp pain in my left flexor tendon and dropped immediately.
I couldn't climb for 2ish weeks and then light climbing after that.
Now I'm fine, back to 100% and more careful than before.
I was just being dumb climbing way out of my grade range though. Never had any trouble other than that.
Aside from injury fears, bouldering at my local gym (given it's so small) gets boring after an hour or so. It also gets very busy at times so it's sort of hard projecting anything outside of my scope (V4+).
Do you have other climber friends? Often if I'm doing a long 5-6 hour session I'm not climbing the whole time, I'll take long rests and climb for fun as well as work on projects.
Having a friend that is close to your skill level to work on new routes with can be great.
Yeah your progression is going to be hastened/slowed by your body type at the start, but I'm climbing 4-5 days a week no problem with minimum 3 hour sessions. Sometimes when I have a day during the week with really light school or work ill be at the gym for 6-7 hours.
Also, it depends on what you're doing for that 1.5 hours.
If you warm up and then work on one project for that whole 1.5 hours then that's not a bad sesh.
If you're spending a long time warming up, climbing random stuff, talking, etc. then you're not getting a lot out of the 1.5 hours.
Swedish climber here, mainly climb in Kjugekull. Which has some world class rock you should check out if you are in southern sweden some day. Also climbed my fair share in Magic woods and Fontainebleau, to which I will move in the summer.
Feel like Sweden is either sandbagged or the rest of the world grade too high. Foreign climbers that usually climb 7a-7c come here and struggle with 6a-6c.
I also feel like people forget that people set grades, its often subjective. To say you climb a certain grade I think you should have climbed 10+ problems of that grade to get some kind of average of different peoples grading. Finding a problem that fits a person very well is possible and allows you to bump a whole grade with almost any grade below 8a after that it should not happen or something is very wrong. Anyway pic related is a very nice 8a on the right arete and 7b+ on the left.
Yes, first summer in Kjugekull I climbed 5-6a on average, though 6a was hard, and at highest two or three 6b. Same summer we went to magic woods, I climbed two 6c within a week, while we spent every weekend of that summer in kjuge.
Now there are places in Sweden too with too high gradings, Västervik for example is a really really nice place with some amazing rock but even some pros have said its graded too high.
Im just against grading too high, its a kind of inflation and for grades to stay relevant there has to be some kind of consistency and in my opinion sandbagging does less "harm" than grading too high. In my opinion 99.9% of beginners should not be able to climb 6b or higher, and im not in that 0.1%. Font grading starts at 4, so everyone should be able to climb 4, 4+ to 6a should be the beginner range. I think thats V0-V2. That 0.1% can probably climb 6b-7a(V3-V6) within a year but after that the difficuly should be such that the technique and strength required is simply not possible to aquire in such a timespan.
On the pic I posted the problems are reversed, I was tired.
I find this to be true with many scandinavian boulder areas. One of the reasons might be using the fontainebleau sandstone boulders as a standard for grading.
Granite = more fingerstrength dependant
Font sandstone = more technique and condition dependant
Thus: a slopy font 5C (climbed with imperfect technique on a warm day) might feel just as hard as a crimpy granite 6C.
>tfw only diabase boulder to climb in my area
How do I keep the skin on my hands? I'm sanding down callouses, but what moisturizer should I look into?
honestly man dont bother with alot of brands om moisturizer.. not sure if the have the 'Climb On' brand where you are but thats teh only one that seems to actually work.
only way to get tough hands is to climb on alot of plastic and alot of rock
Ho well is this for the time I've been climbing?
I've been climbing for 9 months and have sent 2 V7s, 4 V6s, and dozens of V5s (All indoor) and outside I've done a V7, V6, and about 5 V5s. I have climbed outdoors about 5 times, at Stone fort, Horse Pens 40, and boat rock.
I've been climbing for just under two months, I go to the gym at least 3 times a week but I find that after around an hour/hour and a half my arms kind of lose their strength. I was extremely skinny before starting, pretty much underweight but I'm putting on the kgs and muscle quickly. Is it just because of how my body was before I started climbing that my arms wear out quickly? How did you guys fare when you started climbing?
Its normal to get worn out when your relatively new. Just keep going and eventually you'll get used to it. Also throw in some exercises such as traversing around the wall and stuff like that. I'm no professional but that's how I got Mt endurance.
Any Aus fags on here?
would love to talk about our world class climbing and such