The New Order Edition
Keep strictly real-steel topics in >>>/k/ , gun and gear porn's cool as long as you don't spam.
>/asg/ retailer guide
faggot who made it chimped out. open for takers.
>International and local laws concerning Airsoft, things to consider while traveling
>/asp/ergers with Airsoft guns - Skype group link back up!
So who are you going to buy from now to dodge SB199 compliance from the Cali stores?
>High speed motor
>16:1 gear set
Ya dun goofed.
Another piston won't solve the problem. You need to get a stronger spring as well and then maybe shortstroke the gears a little. You also need to adjust the piston angle of engagement. Otherwise even the full steel rack will crack eventually.
>cali can't afford to secede
you best be kidding retard
>kept breaking spur gears after motor swap
>kept replacing spur gears after they broke
>decided to replace additional parts in to see if it would fix the problem
>DIDN'T REPLACE THE MOTOR
this is a gr8 example of why it's hard to want to give advice to you shits anymore. with critical thinking skills that bad I can't imagine you dress yourself in the morning. nonetheless:
-throw that speed motor in the trash. speed motor wind-up makes semi auto response fucking horrible, and high RoF is more easily achieved via a torque motor/speed gears. get a SHS or ZCI high torque motor.
-get a decent piston with all steel teeth (that isn't polycarb) including the pickup tooth. SHS makes a fine one. Don't use an aluminum piston head, either, in case you were.
-get 13:1 or 12:1 gears if you want decent RoF and trigger response, 16:1's make very little difference from 18:1's. must use a torque motor with them. SHS makes fine 13:1s. Keep the 16:1s in if you don't care and they aren't damaged though.
If you are hitting PME you either have a beefy 11.1/babby spring/fast motor or a combo of all of them. You may have to short stroke your sector gear by a couple teeth and drop in a heavier spring in order to stop it. I have no idea what your specs are beyond what you've posted so I can't really tell you if that's a definite issue or not.
Spend some time learning to actually work on your gun in general. Never, ever, EVER pay people money to do what a 10 year old is perfectly capable of doing correctly. Airshit "techs" are easily 95% retards who have no idea what they're doing or are obliged to shill awful products to unaware scrubs.
What gears have you been using previously? It's not really normal for several spur gears to break unless you've been buying shitgears or you're doing something wrong. You should try to eliminate any play that the gears or bearings might have. Check your shmming and glue the bearings down. If the holes for bearings have turned into ovals, you might have to get a new gearbox.
High speed motor aren't very desirable as they aren't very energy efficient, lack torque and and heat up fast. This means that you won't have crisp semi and the full auto will sound like an RC-car. Higher current and heatup also mean that without mosfet there will be more arching in your trigger contacts, motor brushes will wear down faster and if with a mosfet, excessive heat can kill it.
Most 16:1 gearsets have true ratio of 17.2:1. Compared to the original ratio, they are only about 7% faster.
Hold your horses, quickshot.
I am not paying anyone to do my shit (most of the time). I have spare gearboxes to work on and try configurations.
Definitely not throwing a SHS High Speed motor in the trash just because you say so. I wanted to build around the HS motor, not the other way around, so after breaking the stock gear set, I put another old spur which broke in the first 100 shots.
After that I went and got the SHS 16:1 (which are good quality, even if you say shit about them) and the clerk recommended swapping the piston too -which I already regret buying as it wasn't the full metal teeth version-.
Main objective is getting a crisp and fast semi on <350FPS with 7.4v LiPo
Are MOSFETs worth it?
After much tinkering I have my AEG well shimmed and surprisingly accurate, running an SHS hi-torque with a 7.4v lipo.
The trigger response is good but I know that it would be even snappier with an 11.1v, which I believe requires a MOSFET (reduces arcing on trigger contacts?).
Is it an addition that will make a noticeable difference to the performance of the gun?
Was cruising evike all last night trying to find some decent starter gear.
Silly question, but do people even bother with black gear or does everyone run tan/od green/multi?
So how long until cali airsoft guns look like this but with bright colors?
>Main objective is getting a crisp and fast semi
Well you're doing it wrong. High speed motors have high maximum RPM, but it takes longer for them to accelerate to that RPM. High torque motors don't have as high maximum RPMs, but accelerate a lot faster. In short: Torque means better semi. Speed means higher RoF. Then again, most manufacturers have this shit all mixed up.
If you have lots of spare parts, you can try swapping the armatures from stock motors to your SHS motor. The stock motors generally have shitty ferrite magnets, which don't generate much torque so they have to compensate with slower armatures that do. Not every armature fits every can, so yet again, you may need to reduce the play that the armature may have. The armature has to spin freely as close to the magnets as possible and it should have minimal up-down wobble.
If you really wanted to get a crisp semi with relaitvely little money, you'd try to get a hold of 32TPA armature, 12:1 gear set and 14,8v LiPo.
11.1v LiPo will definitely make a difference in performance. It wont fry your contacts or bust your gearbox in a single skirmish, but I'd recommend to buy mosfet and a variety of other mods before you start playing with 11.1v. Mosfet alone won't do much.
Stuff that's necessary
>Piston with all metal teeth and the second and the third tooth shaved down
>Piston angle of engagement correction with sorbo
>Decent shimming with bevel-to-pinion method
>Mosfet with 14AWG wirings and Deans connector
Stuff that may be necessary
>Gearbox radiusing if V2.
>Stronger spring if PME
>Short stroking if PME
>Gluing down the bearings
>Motor alignment if V2
>New gear set
The Blue Force Gear ten-speed chest rigs are very minimalist. And while pricey, the HSP D3CR is a great little chest rig that has a very useful setup. If you want to arrange your pouches however you want then the Tactical Tailor Mini MAV is a good rig. Tons of manufacturers make relatively small rigs with just PALS webbing on them so you can set it up with whatever pouches you like.
Most brands people are recommending you go with are Chinese manufacturers that make lower quality knockoffs of popular designs by Eagle Industries and LBT, though if you're okay with that then they will be cheaper.
Yes, I know that the manufacturers haven't decided what's high speed and what's high torque which is why you'll have 16TPA armatures with both labels. It's still quite likely for a high speed motor to have a low TPA armature than it is for a high torque motor.
Anon with the problem has an SHS HS motor which has a 12TPA armature inside. It pretty much only works with original ratio gears because otherwise it's certain to hit PME. It also heats up quite bit when used excessively in a short period of time. A friend of mine burnt the mosfet from my AK that had said motor when he was emptying mags at the end of the day. The AK had stock XYT gears, M130 spring and the shimming was spot on.
>Belgian Congo Jigsaw smock (end of war)
>Belgian brushstroke over-trousers
>British drill shirt (officers commonly wore these)
>British 38 pat Bren pouches, belt and shoulder straps
>American Water bottle pouch
>Belgian issue M51 Helmet.
MassiveGayShits is at it again
Read up on this bill, and sign this petition, if you'd like.
I'm finally good at a sport, I don't want to see some liberals that are scared of anything gun-shaped ruin it
If thos shit happens Im gonna paint my guns cerberus themed
feast your eyes on this
Poorfag sound grenade I've been using. Uses a ring cap or strip cap from a cap gun. Basically the metal part on the bottom is heavy enough to set the cap off and make a little flash and pop. For $3 it's pretty good. 80% success rate with practice.
I'm just gonna keep buying from evike and the stores local to me. It's just a few pieces of tape you can take off anyway, and who the hell's actually gonna enforce this at a field? The only cops that would go to one are the ones who airsoft in the first place.
Gay porn belongs in /fit/
Stop spamming our martial arts, HEMA, Skateboard, paintball and airsoft board with your fag shit.
Airsoft is basically paintball, paintball is /asp/, and /asp/ was a board before wrestling was moved here.
Airsoft aren't guns, so they don't go on /k/, and /toy/ are a bunch of effeminate manchildren who are afraid at the idea of realistic toy guns.
WWE style pro-wrestling isn't even a real sport, it's fucking staged performances for an audience, outcome is predetermined with most matches.
Which there isn't anything wrong with, but it's not really a sport.
They're airguns. I can use metal 6mm ball bearings in them if I wanted to for small pest control by upping the FPS. However we're using less than lethal rounds at slower speeds. They're bb guns designed for competitive sports.
Go shitpost somewhere else
Actual pellet rifles that fire .17 caliber lead "diabolo" projectiles through a rifled bore are not considered toys and thus actually go on /k/.
Airsoft ends up being this inbetween of a toy and paintball. Ultimately, it goes on here, because it doesn't go on /k/ or /toy/
Remember, you only get one set of eyes M80.
pick a solid color for the furniture (you would be surprised how useful that actually is),
stop thinking you need to add more crap to a perfectly decent platform (simple is better)
start looking for your next gun because it's time to look for a new role in your squad.
if you lack a squad, go find one.
none of this was meant in a malicious fashion btw. the guns fine the way it is, and you'll find more enjoyment with a basic setup anyways.
Sell one of the AKs and get a nice M16 or an SVD for the DMR role. Alternatively grab an RPK or an LMG. As you probably know snipers have to be upgraded a lot to be worth using as your go to.
>wants to build around speedmotor
what is this 2006?
we have lipos and Neo-magnet motors now.
run a 13:1 gearset and a good quality high torque motor. Shit can that 2S lipo and run a 3S.
A MOSFET will greatly reduce the resistance in your trigger wiring, it'll also keep you from turning your trigger contacts into ash.
Except it didn't
>When can we do X
>When GBB happens
>But AEG already exists
>I'm saying AEG already exists though
Being cryptic and going away from the main question doesn't help bucko.
That's a PTW with all the internals done
I don't have any interest in playing DMR (already did and didn't like it) nor LMG, as we already have those roles covered in our team.
My AKs are mostly old and rebuilt, I love them and the low selling price I'd get wouldn't be worth it.
>implying I was playing airsoft in 2006
I have little over 2 years of experience only, so I wanted to experiment around. I'm already trading the SHS High Speed for a SHS High Torque. The 3S doesn't fit on the AK dust cover I'm using. I've tried plenty of models, will try more of them soon
I'm getting this around this summer once I finish paying off my bills.
But yeah Speed motors have no place anymore. Back in the days when Ni-Cads ruled the earth and Nimh were new they were worth it, but now not so much.
As far as fitment on AKs yeah 3S can be tough to fit, but its worth it.
Finally got my carbine yesterday. At this point I could either make it into an XM177E2 or an early Model 733 since it's entirely dependent on the muzzel device and both are kosher for a Gulf War kit.
What have you gotten recently /asg/?
I know, but they just don't fit. I will shorten the wires on both batteries and gearbox soon when I replace them and see if I can get them in.
This >>868656 is an A&K PTW Clone, but you'll have to eventually replace all the electronics, hop unit, barrel, etc. because they're shit, specially cylinder, motor
It is a Systema clone, it will fit Systema/PTW grips and all RS externals just fine.
Teched one for a friend.
Externally, has the shittiest metal body I think I've ever seen. Fire selector would grind against the receiver, and metal dust would come out. The pistol grip is as uncomfortable as it looks.
Internals are your average chinese quality shit, if not a bit worse.
I wouldn't recommend it to be honest.
I thought that was supposed to be a wood furniture or bakelite AR until I took a closer look. I'm doing a real-steel AR build, maybe I'll do an orange stock, grip, and foregrip just for laughs.
I had a chance to hold a G&G LR300 and I liked the grip.
I can agree on the quality of A&K ARs though. My friend got one of their M4s and the whole front end was slightly bent and the internals were garbage.
I would only get an A&K LR300 because of STALKER, and because the G&Gs are impossible to find now.
So I just fieldstripped my new Beretta and gave it some spurts of Ballistol and a gentle wipedown, and WOW; the travel of the slide, the hammer, and especially the trigger became noticeably smoother (COMPLETELY eliminated any grit), the safety is less stiff too. I love this stuff (aside from the smell I guess)
So /asp/, what do you use to clean, lube and protect your guns?
I personally use Safariland CLP, but I need to get some pure silicone oil.
Never use gun oil on anything but metal on metal, since the solvents can dry out and break down things like rubber and plastic. Use pure silicone oil when it comes to things like hopups, nozzles, gbb magazines, and rubber seals.
>a description that one autist thinks is witty
Basically. It's related to some meme the WWE refugees brought with them, perhaps about something being childish, cringey, and edgy, like outlaw wrestling and its fans can be.
>Never use gun oil on anything but metal on metal, since the solvents can dry out and break down things like rubber and plastic.
>Use pure silicone oil when it comes to things like hopups, nozzles, gbb magazines, and rubber seals.
I didn't know that, thanks. Wiped off the nozzle and magazines, then gave them a spray from an old silicone spray I had.
One of the main concerns when dropping cash on things like this is if they're worth: for me, they are.
The range is really good. I am running a FCC Gen2 hop unit with a 6.03 Balystik barrel and it gets absurdly accurate with great range.
Makes sense. It's easier to just own a piece of land and call it a field, rather than dress it up to look the part. The indoor fields have to build stuff inside, so they have the choice make it look like future space stuff or whatever.
There was some speedsoft kid at the field this weekend with a stickerbombed MP5 that I thought actually looked kinda cool.
I'd upload the photo but my computer is in pieces at the moment.
so I brought my first gbb rifle
the metal sound of bolt traveling and the recoil are awesome
but after shooting a couple mags it start leaking from the top
does it have something to do with winter?
I looked around for tutorials to fix it but all of them seems to focus on fixing leakage caused by broken bottom valve or o-ring
so anyone know what's the cause and how to fix it?
shit, i'm retarded
the one I brought was WE SCAR-H
So is it like
>bolt doesn't travel the full way and the mag dumps gas
Because if so, it could be a couple of things.
Your hammer could be sticking, something is hanging up in the trigger mechanism, the cold weather is causing a phenomenon called"cool-down" in which the rapidly cooling gases inside the magazine decrease the pressure and thus doesn't create enough energy to fully cycle the bolt., or the mags might just be shit because WE Tec.
>high and inconsistent fps (over 400)
Not really skirmishable OOTB, but it looks cool.
>guy selling his AEG
It really depends on the paint job. If it's a light dusting of tan paint or something that actually looks good than sure, but if it's some shitty hydro dip with skulls or some shit then they can fuck off.
Considering that A&K and G&P are more or less the only manufacturers that still make the SAW, and the G&Ps normally goes for over $400 and are only available overseas, I'd say get it.
Just be ready to replace the shit internals.
The Nagant revolver is infamous for it's heavy trigger, consider if they'll try to replicate this.
It's also very clumsy to reload.
I wouldn't suggest one outside of collecting.
If you're really keen on skirmishing with one, the Nagant revolver can be modded to have a fixed hop - have a search on Google, some guy on a forum put up instructions on how to go about it. The same can be done to a Webley replica, too.
Can some one help me out? I recently got a 7 year old Tokyo Marui p90 that's hardly been in use, (two game days and a 24 hour milsim so I've been told), and it's range is abysmal as well as the fact that it has no semi auto mode.
help a brother out!
No, as in, the Nagant 1895 is an INCREDIBLY clunky design as far as revolvers go, the Single Action Army predates it and is a better weapon in every way that matters.
>trigger weighs in at something like 27lbs
>reloading is like a quadrapledic Colt
>you have to unhook the cylinder pin, then use it as an ejector-rod (no spring assist or anything)
There are much more practical revolvers available, that use CO2 (though typically most are inherently inaccurate and too powerful for skirmishing without special skirmish cartridges), unless you're collecting or re-enacting, consider other revolvers.
People like to say that it's low powered (as the only available commercial ammunition today are lukewarm target loads ), but actual Imperial and Soviet Russian military loadings clock in somewhere around the realms of a .32H&R Magnum, not a beast or anything, but actually pretty decent for a service revolver at the time (when similarly sized revolvers at the time were closer to .32ACP in terms of performance).
The only thing that really stands out about it is that the cylinder locks forward before the hammer drops, couple that with the extended brass hull poking into the barrel, and this creates a seal, meaning all the gas is used to project the bullet, rather than a considerable amount of it escaping around the forcing-cone (as it does near all revolvers). Besides making the most of the powder load, this also means that you can effectively put a silencer on the revolver, and make it rather quiet, this wasn't the original idea, but the Soviets figured this out and employed them with silencers for wetwork in the early parts of the 20th century.
Oh yeah, sure, at the turn of the century it cut the mustard, it wasn't fantastic, but it was probably cheap and provided you with a handgun that you could shoot a couple of times.
It's a lot like the German Reich revolver, horribly obsolete and clunky by the time it was adopted, just about as uncomfortable to reload, and eventually replaced with an amazing automatic pistol, the Germans went from the Reich revolver to the Luger, the first practical automatic pistol in history, and the Russians went from the Nagant to the Tokarev, an overall very adequate automatic.
Interesting how the Germans and Russians had a similar transition like that.
Almost forgot though that the Navys were retrofitted to fire .38 cartridges and there were other colts also in circulation using .38. Needless to say the US military used a lot of Colt designs before the 1911 came along.
The Air Force was using M16A1s and GAU-5s/XM177s until the mid 2000s; hell they still might have them in armories. They're also using an obsolete (albeit cool looking) gas mask along with the Navy.
Neither have land based infantry so they never really needed the cutting edge, or aren't given the funding since land based branches like the Army and Marines. This applies to the Navy using percussion cap revolvers in a time of rimfire.
Well I know that they still have lots of old ARs lying about and still being used, but the M16 is the M16 (the M16A4 is really just an M16A2 with an adjustable stock, RIS, and railed upper), if you rebarrel an M16A1 and use modern ammo and magazines, it will perform like an M16A4. The Colt Navy and the M1911 are quite a number of steps apart.
The M16A2 rifles remain in use because they still do what the M16 is supposed to do (though some are probably pretty worn), even though they might not be issued to frontline troops much.
Oh shit, I forgot totally about the cartridge conversions, yeah, that would have made sense, I mean, a lot of the .45-70 trapdoor guns were converted from caplock muskets, you'd get the same end result with a cost saving.
Essentially the transition from revolver to automatic pistol is going to be the same from automatics to energy weapons. It's highly drastic because revolvers rely on a rather different system than automatics. We're essentially in the 1860's or so if you want to compare automatics to energy weapons.
I don't think we'll see energy weapons as infantry weapons any time soon.
The closest might be some kind of railgun with a battery pack and separate projectiles, but that'd be a static or a vehicle emplacement at most. And even then you gotta question if it's even a practical weapon compared to existing cannons and machineguns.
We'll probably stick to cartridge firearms for hundreds more years, simply because it works so reliably and cheaply.
What we might see is a revolution in terms of materials or actions, or maybe cartridge types (telescoping ammunition for instance). I'd say we're at some manner of plateau in terms of firearms development, what we're focusing on these days is making existing ideas in a better way (better materials, better manufacturing techniques, etc), and for now this works.
Rail guns are more of a pipe dream honestly
I think we'll see energy directed vehicle mounted and anti-vehicle weapons. We have the tech so once we find something that has high voltage and high capacity we can make energy weapons practical.
I've been out of airsoft for probably over a year now, and want to get back in. I haven't touched my funs or oiled them in the meantime, are they fucked?
I've left a TM pistol gassed up for over a year, it was fine.
The only way to find out is by shooting them, in any the worst that can happen is some dried out o-rings.
Finally got what I wanted. Shit, this thing was really hard to find. Still, I'm pretty happy. It's heavy, it's sturdy, except for the stock pin. I jury-rigged it with a matching nut and some electrical tape, until I find a replacement.
Sup /asg/, half of my police loadout has arrived so I thought I'd show. It's not complete yet so don't judge too harshly.
Still to come:
Chunky Patrol helmet
Patch for the front and full width patch for the back.
Balaclava that extends down the neck.
Just standing around in it in my house I was sweating up a storm, the dark navy ripstop shirt and trousers I got really aren't that breathable.
Anyone use a battlebelt rig, or battlebelt + carrier?
I run an AK with a plate carrier right now but the only place I can mount the pouches I have (2x double) are on the sides under my arms and it restricts my movements. Would AK mags be too large to fit on a belt?
Kneepads are there. Sort of hard to see because its dark navy on black. I've got an old style Motorola radio (Think the ones they use at events, the ones that can be used as melee weapons) thats going to go on a pouch on my shoulder when they get them back in stock.
r8 my b8 m8
A Christmas "spent"
Condor ops Black chest rig
Flyye double p90 mag pouch
Flyye single p90 mag pouch
Warrior slimline folding dump pouch (Star buy, highly recommended!)
Warrior medium utility pouch
Flyye Admin storage pouch
Flyye double 9mm pistol pouch (Holds mp5 mags really well)
Warrior PLB Belt in tan (to be replaced with black)
Warrior Universal pistol Holster (Seriously good piece of kit)
Helikon Tactical Baseball Winter Cap
Helikon Urban Tactical Vent Gloves
Magnum Lynx boots
Knockoff magpul sling
Cheapo (but good) ebay £5 Ultrafire torch
Cold Steel training knife
Gun is Force Core (Echo1/JG) AR57, just to piss off the purists.
Dark grey/grey blue tactical soft-shell
Some kind of tactical jeans
Sorry for the photo quality, shot using potato.
I also have a WE M&P in my holster, I really can't overstate how nice the warrior universal holster is.
The AR57 is my project gun, I've got a P90 already tricked out with the works for use until I get this up to how I like.
Ew is that a Combat Machine?
In other news;
H Y P E D
Learning photography, god I never thought it would be so complex.
My torch is mounted underneath my barrel.
Tell me /asp/ies, what do you see.......
Photography is pretty easy from an amateur perspective as long as you're not doing super high quality product shots and shit. It helps to understand things like white balance, lighting, and depth of field though if you want some decent photos.
Get yourself a Fujifilm X10 or something since those have really close focus distances and are dirt cheap.
That's going to be interesting for CQB and room clearing
Hey guys! I know nothing about teching past changing hop ups/barrels/motors/general disassembly.
The mk 18 mod 0 is one of my dream guns and a guy in my state who is said to do semi professional tech work for the last 3 years (and said he can give lots of references and reps in the Facebook group) is selling a 2015 VFC mk 18 with the following. Does it all look good and solid build and won't go to shit on me next year?
Vfc gearbox she'll
Shs m120 Spring
Ball bearing spring guide
Metal rack piston
Shs ball bearing piston head
Shs cylinder head with sorbo pad
Shs tappet plate
Complete tactics nukefet
JG blue motor
Tightbore barrel and rotary hopup unit
Shoots 400 with .25s
Crane stock has been modified to hold a brick lipo which can be included
The battery included and being used is a 11.1 2650 man 40c lipo as well and gets about 25 rps. I'm mostly just worried about gears or motor dying out from that so should I be worried? Also not as important but he thinks the RIS on it is actually from kac. That's king arms right? Is that a decent manufacturer for external items like rails? I might end up buying the real steel DD rails for mod 0 but I'd still like to know.
Im 99% sure the real mk 18 rails are from daniel defense but since you were under the impression that knights armament makes the real ones I'm guessing they make good externals or the RIS on the gun is real steel since I am aware of some good Knights armament products on the market like their PDW. Thanks for answering that question! Hopefully some good techs can give second opinions on the motor and gearbox and piston stuff he has in there. I'd be way more comfortable if it had just been stock vfc lol
>tfw never ever
>For a shotty
fuck it, Id rather buy marui 870 and hpa tap it
A grand is pretty steep, but from what little research that I've done in the past ten minutes shows that there were apparently somewhere around 50 made and they're at least a decade old.
Not to mention that Sheriff are the only ones who ever made a gas SPAS.
I really wish Marui would drop the AA12 and make a gas SPAS.
Just what you would expect from cheap chinarifles
Shit: shimming, hop up bucking, AoE, compression, motor
Okay: gears, maybe piston and piston head
The parts list looks decent, but not perfect. There's no mention of radiusing for the gearbox. The metal rack piston sounds bit fishy, but it's most likely good enough. Ball bearings aren't really something you want in your piston, because you want your piston to be as light as possible. Doesn't necessarily mean much in this setup though. A single sorbo pad doesn't necessarily mean that the AoE has been corrected. The tightbore may or may not be any more accurate than a stock barrel. It all depends on the manufacturer. There's no mention of hop up bucking, but I suppose you can make a flat hop yourself. JG Blue is a great motor. I wouldn't expect it to fail. The pinion gear might not mesh perfectly with the gear set though. KWA is supposedly a good manufacturers, but I have no experience of their parts. Generally speaking, chinese stock XYT gears can hold up pretty well M130 spring unless the shimming is shit, so I'd like to expect that the KWA gears aren't any worse. 18:1 ratio with 22TPA motor should reach only about 22-23RPS and the trigger response isn't all that great with 18:1 gears. 400fps with 0,25g bbs is almost 1,9J which translates to about 450fps with 0,2 although it may shoot little less due to how joule creep works.
I wouldn't buy it, because it's relatively expensive and still needs work. If you really want it, test it first and try to haggle for something like 250. If he doesn't budge, at least make sure the gearbox is radiused and the AoE corrected. I'm not a fan of buying used batteries, but if it's like 10$ and 3000mah 40C, then sure.
250 is kind of what I was thinking at. In the post below the lipo he's throwing in (for free) is a 40c 11.1 2650 brick.
AoE means angle of entry right? How will I know if he's corrected it, since I could just ask and he'd say yes? And I plan to use this in an indoor arena and use my scar for my outdoor games, luckily where I am they allow .25 and 400 is the limit. If it's shooting hotter how will I be able to lower fps without messing with what he's done? I know how to change bucking so if it's bad or stock I'm not worried, plus it's not old either. As long as I'm getting 20+ in CQB setting I'm not worried but trigger response is worrisome. I'm assuming chaging to 12-13:1 gears for better response would no coordinate with the rest of the set up and is also something I wouldn't do until I get into more intermediate tech work?
Also, how will I know if the gearbox is radiused? I'm always afraid of asking questions and people just saying yes. I can easily disassemble M4 systems so is it something I could check with my own eyes or do you need to open up the gearbox to see it?
>AoE means angle of entry right?
Angle of engagement. The angle that the sector gear grabs the piston. If it's bad, the gun will eat pistons for breakfast. He'll have to open the gearbox and take a picture to prove it. There's no other way unless he's drilled a hole for it. It should be like pic related.
>If it's shooting hotter how will I be able to lower fps without messing with what he's done?
The easiest way is to buy a Prometheus or Orga Wide bore barrel. Another way is to use full cylinder that's meant for long barrels. M16 or AK inner barrel when you want the usual FPS and a really short one when you want it reduced. I can't really say how much these methods reduce the FPS exactly though. Switching from stock inner barrel to a prometheus wide bore reduced about 390 to 330 with 0,20g bb which is about 1,4J to 1J.
>I'm assuming chaging to 12-13:1 gears for better response would no coordinate with the rest of the set up
If the gearbox is radiused and the AoE corrected, there's nothing that I'd see breaking assuming you'll do the shimming well. Maybe the bearings if they're 6-7mm.
>I wouldn't do until I get into more intermediate tech work?
Shimming the gears isn't really hard per se once you're comfortable at reassembling the gearbox. You'll just need time and patience to try again and again and again.
>facebook group for selling airsoft stuff
>dude asks to buy an AK toprail
I got a question. I have an AGM MG42 and I was wondering - if I use a 10.8 or 11.1 will the gearbox hold and work properly or will it shit itself and explode after a while?
[spoiler]Im not into technicalities really[/spoiler]
It's always nice to have more variety, but the AA-12 seems so ugly and niche.
I wish TM would get round to doing a Browning HP GBBP, or G3 AEG
I'm pretty sure this is a TM G3, and an AEG. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
The AA-12 is ugly-pretty
Sure its not elegant, but in a way it has its own charm as a result. It looks like a function over form design, almost like it were needed in an industrial setting.
The stock TM one has a crappy old creaky plastic body.
I think one of the China clones had a metal lower receiver, and the real rifle isn't polymer, it's some alloy with fibreglass pinned to it.
In any case I guess it's just a pipe dream, the G3A3 and FAMAS are old hat now, I think the market demands more modern weaponry anyway.
Gonna bump this because this is kind of a problem right now for me and I need to buy a decent battery so this thing will actually fire like an MG42
The only companies to make metal G3s were Classic Army and G&G; and good luck getting them new unless you live in Germany since Begadi owns the exclusive distribution rights to Classic Army's G3s.
Which metal airshit guns are most like their real-steel counterparts for the purposes of durability and milsim? I want something I can beat the shit out of and use it as a training version of something out of my safe.
>The AA-12 is ugly-pretty
The standard one is ugly as hell to me. Now, I'm not a guy for camo patterns, but digital and desert camo is really the only way the AA-12 can look good.
>Sure its not elegant, but in a way it has its own charm as a result. It looks like a function over form design, almost like it were needed in an industrial setting.
As functional as a full-auto shotgun can be (as in; not very, in terms of practicality).
They should have made it a closed-bolt semi-auto only, operating on gas.
There's a reason the only sales the AA-12 is seeing is to movie armorers and FFLs who think it'd be fun to have one. The USAS-12 was better in every way that mattered.
>It's completely unnecessary, as the real rifle has a polymer body anyway
I thought it was just parts of it that were plastic? I recall hearing stories of the plastic handguards on them breaking back in the 60's.
Shame the French didn't really go for full adoption of the G2 model, it really fixed all the issues with the FAMAS and was actually a very good rifle.
I wouldn't really want to lug around an F1 if I could help it, but I'd not complain at all about a G2.
The one thing I'd change would be to give it a railed flat-top receiver, the charging handle could be moved, and as much as I like rifle grenades, nobody uses them so the gas-cutoff might as well be removed.
Yeah I might. Ripstop is really heavy and hot but they were also the only cheap option for dark navy which is a colour I really wanted.
It was either that or pay £140 for a set of 5.11 dark navy combats.
I'm buying a new gun after not playing for ~1 year. I'm deciding between an APS (Silver Edge gearbox) or a Specna Arms (E&C?) with a grenade launcher which I know is quite useless but still kinda want. Also, the Specna Arms one is a bit cheaper.
Does anybody here have experience with these guns? Which one should I buy?
Specna Arms all the way, APS is a fucking lottery. Looks cool and all but who knows if you get a lemon or not.
Specna Arms is the mid end G&P and is compatible with many aftermarkets unlike APS
Is that so? Never heard that. That being said, I think I could fix a lemon, but you made me lean seriously a lot towards the Specna.
And how are the externals on both guns? I want something that'l withstand a tiny bit of abuse.
Also am I dumb for wanting a grenade launcher?
Externals are nice on APS's but SA has that cool feel.
APS silver edge comes usually with EBB which is pure shit, it tends to break shit, on mine it broke the hop dial screw.
SA holds well, has a somewhat quick change spring system and internals are fine. I would love having the M16 with UGL
I've got a chink AK which I upgraded >>876340 and man it's a fucking rock.
I need guns that are sturdy because I'm a bit clumsy and I usually don't treat stuff well. With this one I only broke the muzzle threads (had to change the full barrel assembly tho)
If you want muh reliability get an E&L.
P&J is a chink brand, I think it's an A&K rebrand or something. Not bad, they are quite rugged but I would go for Specna if you can.
Avoid at all costs Dboys ARs and G&G Combat machines.
I actually handled a P&J before actually. Thing was heavier than I was used to, but it didn't feel like breaking anytime soon. Also yeah, they're rebranded, but upgraded (and surprisingly well) A&K's
Rebranded A&K with upgrade parts, i think they're rebranded here in Yurop (Poland?)
Well, thank you guys. After discussing it here, and with my friend who has one, it's probably going to be a P&J. I'll be ordering it tomorrow, if anybody has a different suggestions, I'll be checking the tread tomorrow before buying.
Good night for now, guys
Most stock guns aren't able to handle 11.1v lipos for even short periods and stock chink guns will break eventually no matter what battery is used. You'd need to install a mosfet and change the piston. If you don't want to replace any parts before they break, use a 7.4v lipo with at least 1200mAh and 25C.
Hey, what would be the easiest/best way of making an AEG version of The Patriot?
Only a couple companies made "Patriots". Western Arms made the closest replica but it's a GBB and ludicrously expensive, Madbull made a sort of Patriot with that JG "Tanker" muzzle brake that has been discontinued for a couple of years now (Redwolf apparently has them still, http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/Accessories_Conversion_Kits_AEG_Madbull_Patriot_Kit_Long_Version_for_Marui_M4_M16_Series.htm ), and PDI also makes (made?) one.
Here's the closest you could do on your own:
>Get a JG xm177
>Ditch the front end
>Get a shorter barrel, maybe 8" or so
>Find a way to rib the handguard; either by hand or with a machine
>Find a way to mount the handguard to the receiver; maybe with one of these http://www.evike.com/products/48636/ and some jb weld
>Get a C-Mag
Your only issue would be the flash hider, and the closest I could find would be this http://www.evike.com/products/35630/ combined with this http://www.evike.com/products/35630/
Or you could just get the Madbull kit and settle for close enough.
Yes it's all bullshit. The word 'reinforced' doesn't mean anything. Do you think hop up chamber needs any reinforcing? Do you think you can break a fucking hop up chamber?
From the site where I bought it: "For powering 'The Hitler's Saw', a specially designed, reinforced two-part gearbox was installed. Inside it has a set of steel gears, chrome cylinder, driven piston head with bearing and 8mm ball bearings. Additionally it has efficient, long 600mm inner barrel. The gearbox has quick spring change system." I shouldve been more clear on that reinforced bit
Enlighten me and I dont mean that in a sarcastic way because I know jack shit about that stuff and havent been in the loop for a while which doesnt help either
The piston still probably has plastic teeth and bad AoE. AoE was discussed earlier in this thread if you don't know what it means. 11.1v LiPo will also burn your trigger contacts if you don't install a mosfet.
Here's everything you need to know about LiPo batteries.
E&Ls are overrated and way overpriced. Cyma AKs are the best ak you can get for the money. A non chinese company just doesn't make a decent AK aeg that isn't stupidly overpriced with mediocre internals. New Cymas are actually better than the VFCs they are cloning.
>Bill H3476 would outlaw the sale and use of airsoft replicas in the Commonwealth of Massachusetts. Since any replica firearm or toy that does not have "(iii) has a barrel at least 1 inch in diameter that is closed for a distance of not less than one-half inch from the front-end of its barrel with the same material of which the imitation firearm is made." is considered an "imitation firearm" under the newly proposed definition in Bill H3476, it will not be able to be sold or used in the Commonwealth of Massachusetts
Where were you when Massachusetts tried to be Australia?
Tokyo Marui is coming out with a patriot, but they seem to given themselves a lot of artist license as to what constitutes an M4 Patriot..
The only rarest gun I've seen in person. Ahead of its time for sure.
There was another super rare gun on ebay but I don't remember the name, only it had a fucking astronomical price.
E&Ls are great for 300-400 dollars. You're paying for an actual firearms receiver retrofitted for airsoft. Cymas are great but I can't fall on a cyma and have it be fine unlike my E&L.
I'm talking about spiking it into the ground with the full force of your body, barrel first. Not gently falling on it. Also I've never had a gun as solid as an E&L nor as high quality on the metal.
Not moving the goalposts here. You fell on it gently. I smashed mine into the ground and its completely fine. That being said its completely worth it for the externals. If you don't want to pay for that level of external build then that's completely fine. I love Cymas myself too but they don't compare in how they feel in your hands.
What the fuck, have you even seen the video? "fell on it gently" it broke half the pouches on my chest right and I had to quit after that fall.
I know they're better, everybody does; just don't spread missinformation: they don't break if you fall on them
And a sideways charging handle.
And the omission of the buffer-tube.
ProTip, you can put a front-sight in the carry-handle of an AR, LaFrance Specialties have done it for decades.
1st batch Marui M16s from the 90s
Classic Army G3s and HK33
STAR and G&G FNCs
King Arms and ARES FAL and L1A1
Any Real Sword, but especially the SVD and Type 97
A lot of the REALLY rare guns are old Japanese gas or HPA guns.
For example: The Asahi WA2000, MGC P7M13, Kokusai Crimebuster, JAC and Sun Project ARs, and more.
Anon! is that a cyma ak? IF so I have the same one! How did you mount that red dot and suppressor to it?
>it serves no purposes.
That's my point, why is ANYONE selling the P90 with the PS90 barrel if we're talking airsoft?
The long barrel literally only exists to comply with NFA laws, which only applies to real firearms, the only time I could see it existing would be as a separate piece made in small scale by some company because there's a few collectors who want them.
It just baffles me, it's as if Umarex suddenly decided to sell an MP5 with the long barrel from the HK94
Like 80usd, pretty reasonable (though shipping ended up costing some).
>ask WE if real Beretta 84 grips would fit on their GBB
>"we don't make any gun with such a name"
>send them a link
>"oh, that is our 'mini 92' GBB"
Made me kek.
Eh, RS stuff ain't exactly rare, maybe uncommon and unpopular like the T97 or uber expensive and cool like the SVD make it an aeg for a few.
>PSG1 still in production
CA is back, G3 models are still can be found, HK33, wasn't popular enough so not many have it even tho I did own it.
Most of the Ares lineup thats cool are pretty rare, like their M110 is pretty rare.
Most of the Classics are rare, dont forget the Shoei MG42 or the Asahi M60.
The Escort SVD is fucking rare as fuck.
The Atoz SVD can be considered rare as fuck too (what the A&K Springer is based on)
Most of the newer stuff or anything made after 2003 is that its unpopular or it stayed in Asia.
As far as I know, the new Classic Army HKs are only available in Germany.
I completely forgot about the Escort and Atoz SVD though. I remember looking at them years ago when the only other options were from Real Sword, Classic Army, and King Arm's clone of the Atoz. G&P made a gas SVD too and it was super expensive.
I for one think that the luminescent colors give the gun a bodacious and totally awesome styling, and keep us safe from potential lethal misidentification by law enforcement agencies.
Me and my friends will definitely comply with the law, and have no plans to flout the legislation.
What do you guys think? Please include your name and address in the comments.
Yes, that's my CM045.
The suppressor is a madbull pbs4. It originally came with a 16mm CW threading. I asked madbull if they had a 14mm CCW and luckily enough they did.
To attach a suppressor you have to press down the pin and unscrew the flashhider. There's a 24mm CW adapter which you can remove by unscrewing one (maybe two) tiny grub screws. They adapter should now come off and you'll have 14mm CCW threading.
Sight is an airsoft Kobra sight, so that just goes on to siderail.
>What's so special about that one?
It's the Type 65K2, the main service rifle of the Taiwanese military, one of the earliest examples of a piston AR. You can tell by the stock and slightly different shape of the carry handle.
Also, it's made by Guarder, who make a lot of quality aftermarket parts.
/asp/, would you put you're waifu on your gun?
(pic not related)
Hey guys, so I was a good boy and read the sticky and bought myself a CM.040 (http://www.taiwangun.com/en/electric-air-soft-guns/cm-040-cm) this one, with some metal midcaps and a 1600mAh battery.. But after they shipped it i realised that the other models, like CM.040J have reinforced parts listed, does the CM.040 have those too just unlisted? or did i mess up? please respong i just want to play airsoft
Well, I don't really care. It's been sold forever.
This is one of the rifles I own atm.
If you order a Glock replica from HK and have it shipped into the US, I've heard that US customs may seize it for copyright infringement or some such.
But practically speaking, is this enforced?
MG42 dude here again. How would I go about upgrading my rifle so it can use a 11.1 LiPo? I know about the mosfet but other than that Im stumped. Id also appreciate if someone could point me towards a retardproof general guide of some sorts on how to assemble and dissasemble gearboxes and how to install the mosfet. I know Id need to find a specific one for the MG but Id want some basic guidelines first.
Here's couple good links
iirc the actual way it was done that glock hold the copyright and makes sure replicas of their guns are not allowed into country, so they ask customs to seize them. customs however doesn't really do that, so just to be safe companies will cover the trades of the airsoft guns with electrical tape, because customs won't care enough to peel it off or thoroughly check it
>Go back to /toy/ you fucking airshitter
said the /k/
>Erm sorry, go to /asp/
said the /toy/
First time here
I want to buy my first airshit for shit and giggles with friends
What are good low budget companies for Canuckistan ?
My friends recommend G&G, what are your thoughts ?
Hit and miss. CYMA M4s aren't that great for the money, but their CM04X series aks are better than the VFCs they were cloned from. Their other AKs aren't bad either. If you want an M4, go for the JG enhanced series. Same price as a combat machine, but better performance. You'll have to specify if you're looking for snowflake stuff.