Discuss anything aquarium related here, including inhabitants, decor and issues.
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-any and all inhabitants + how long you've had them
>How to cycle your tank: http://pastebin.com/x4WnB0Ah
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>FUCKING GOOGLE - http://www.google.com
You call that a shitpost?
just got two of these, some sort of red dwarf lilly. the exact type wasn't listed and i'd like to know.
it looks darker red irl
sorry for poor photo quality, phone camera sucks
It's exactly that, I red dwarf lily. It's a heavy rooting plant, so make sure you dont disturb it, and try not to vacuum to close to it either (the roots will like the decaying matter anyways). Other then that their great plants that I think everyone should have, since they require virtually no light whatsoever, but can also thrive under ultra high light as well. They also get freakin huge
got a lot of snails in my tank chaps. its heavily planted and they lay their eggs all over the fucking place.
pond snails i think, with a smaller population of MTS also.
I have a pleco in there who's moving to a larger tank soon, what catfish/bottom dwellers could i get that will help with my snails?
Tank is too small for clown loach, im more interested in what will eat the eggs at this point. I have assassin snails and will get more soon to help control the adult snail numbers
i would quite like to though was under the impression they prefer brackish water.
If i see any at LFS i'll get them though ive never seen them there.
do corys eat snail eggs? i really like corys and havent had any for years
Actually Dwarf Pea Puffers are fully freshwater, and salt can actually harm them pretty easily. They might nip at the fins of your GBRs a little bit, but the GBRs will probably just put them in their place, or just stay away from them altogether (pea puffers arent very fast swimmers). The only issue with them is they tend to only eat live food, or frozen bloodworms. So you may want to avoid getting to many and whipping out all your snails. I currently have a single pea puffer in a 4gal tank with many many pond snails and RCS, and havent ever feed the puffer in the 3 months I've had him. The snail population still seems to be going strong, and he's stopped killing RCS altogether (never saw him eat one, but some shrimplets disappeared). Still always has a fat belly though.
Huntin' snails all day erryday
Just picked up a 100g tank for my Burmese community set up I'm planning with Burmese border loaches, giant danios, some garras, a nice gourami and maybe some type of gudgeon. Any ideas for fish that'd do well in this sorta tank, or maybe some changes to my rough stocking idea that you guys think would be a good idea?
Got 2 dwarf mexican lobsters, four red swordtails today. So far two sword tails are fucked up a bit but alive.
How do I keep future babies and the current ones from being fucked up all the time?
Will the swordtails learn their place/ territory and not go near the lobsters?
If you keep him AWAY from the crawdads and keep the water conditions absolutely perfect (zero ammonia, zero nitrite), he might live. He might even make a full recovery (no guarantees though)
Lots of fish can regenerate their fins, given ideal water conditions.
Pea puffer with GBR probably isn't a good idea. I don't think cories will eat snail eggs, since they're coated in that tough slime. Is the tank big enough for a school of pygmy chain loaches? They're supposed to be fairly peaceful as long as you keep a large group of them, like six plus.
Or you could drop a slice of cucumber in overnight and pull it out along with a bunch of snails, then repeat until theyre manageable.
Looks like a sassy black woman. He could name it Shebonquisha. Or Jynx.
Hows that weekly water change going /an/?
I just got mine done
Anyone have a hard time with the Eheim jager trutemp heater? I calibrated it and let it sit in the tank for 30 minutes before plugging it in per the instructions and watched it for an hour and nothing happened, except my temp dropping.
So i unplugged it and fiddled with it some more, light came on this time but it didn't shut off, I gave it an hour and then yanked the fucking thing and put my other cheap tetra heater.
Wasn't going to risk my fish dying from the cold or getting boil while i slept, at least the tetra heater kept my tank at 78.8 at all times, what a pain in the ass, I'm still looking for a new heater because I've heard the horror stories of the tetra heater malfunctioning.
Fluval E heater vs Aqueon pro
Which ones better?
My pleco that i had for 6 years just died after getting stuck in some cheap plastic piece of shit shipwreck that my GF bought me. I feel like crying right now. He was my favourite.
Pic related, not mine but i had the same
I know, she feels really bad about it cause she knows how attached i was to my pleco.
He was indeed outgrowing my tank anyway, so i like to think he's in a better place now, swimming around with lots of pleco friends and all the space he needs.
Probably because he doesn't give them some food treats after he cleans. The fish all were like "the fuck is he doing, quit screwing up the place you asshole". Then he just leaves. I give them some blood worms after a change of water to help compensate for bothering there daily tank life.
Hey /aq/ quick question for any breeders. I would like to breed some red cherry shrimp, the catch is.. I want to make them bigger. Nothing absurd just. Maybe an extra inch and a half. A pinky lengthed red cherry shrimp. How would you guys go about this? I'm thinking to get a 20 gallon for living/storing area and a few 5 gallon tanks for breeding/raising the young. Then feeding the small guys to a betta.
Here's my new albino bristlenose pleco I had previously mentioned. It's hard to get a good picture of her.
What sorts of vegetables can I give her? I tried blanched arugula, she didn't go for it. I know zucchini is an option.
Not as hard as it is to get a picture of the kuhli loaches. They're scared of the camera.
My lyretail angel Pitchfork before I set up the aquarium background. This is the attention-whore fish that kept swimming directly in front of my camera. I've had a lot of success keeping angelfish with the neon tetras so far, they completely ignore each other, but they're still small.
And of course I dropped the pic. Last one, I promise.
Do you soak the flakes to make them sink faster? I put flakes directly in the filter output so that they're pushed down quickly. Kuhlis also like algae tablets, which tend to sink pretty fast.
I keep my angelfish with cardinal tetras. Prettier than neons, a bit hardier, and they grow big enough that even aggressive scalare will leave them be.
They can be a bit nippy if any other fish gets sick though. I suspect they killed my old ancistrus by eating his fins after he got sick, so I keep a better eye on them now.
Feed the fish at night,when no lights are on.
Get driftwood or an oak branch for her to chew on. Even from outside, just give it a whack and a rinse.
I think most of their nutrition comes from aufwuchs, so add sticks and leaves. Just a couple dry crispy leaves and she will eat them after the bacteria form.
You can grow plants in the tank if it's an amazon sword. and she'll eat it as it decays.
Do you think a lfs would take a fish I got from petco?
a baby clown loach came stuck inside the wood I got from petco. I saved him from petco, meme is real. no fucking way I can keep clown loach though
I don't mean genuinely trapped
but the hole inside the wood goes further and gets smaller and I guess the little guy was hanging out in there when the guy gave me the wood. He's in it right now
dumped the wood out into the sink and there he was
My tank is pretty well-planted, with driftwood. I had just heard that they should get some supplemental veggies. Would it eat the dead leaves of the java fern or anubias? I don't have Amazon swords, but I did recently pull a mass of java fern out of the sand to tie to new driftwood, and there are plenty of dead java leaves hanging out.
I know I said no more pictures, but I think the pleco's neat-looking.
I've been thinking about getting a 5 gallon tank and put a dwarf puffer fish in it.
Is it true that I can put a bunch of pond snails, some plants and both snails and puffer will thrive just fine?
I'm asking this because I travel alot and am usually away from home for 1-3 months at a time.
Will this idea work if the filter and heater are working fine or will I comeback to a dead tank?
You have to do it right, and do it very very carefully. I'm the person your refering to, and you have to really let the pond snails grow. Algae growth is what you want. Algae to feed your snails, which feed your puffer. I let my tank cycle for a month with pond snails in it, then planted the hell out of it, and let it sit for another whole month, and by the time i could see about 50 snails at any given time, I introduced the puffer. In order for the puffer to thrive, the snails have to be thriving even better
If you're away that long at a time you probably shouldn't do it. Anything can go wrong in a tank that small very very very quickly. You'll have to keep up on weekly if not bi weekly water changes from the fish shit and all the dead snail matters and if that doesn't kill him and bad heater will cook everything. At least you'll have hot soup to come back to.
A puffer can thrive on snails but thriving isn't living. They will need more than snails for adequate nutrition and to do more than thrive which making them only thrive is a pretty shitty thing.
On paper it sounds simple enough. Plant stuff, let it grow, add snails, then add fish. Though it does sound like it's easy to fuck up. I saw some videos of a guy with a snail/shrimp tank that didn't change the water in 3 months and everything was alright in the tank.
I guess it is irresponsible to do that. I just figured I'd get a pet to liven up my new apartment.
Get a puffer, 30 gallon or more tank, and add plants, snails, and shrimps. The bigger the tank the less quickly things will go wrong and make sure to over filter. Feeding snails is okay in an aquarium setting they should really only be feed to keep the puffers beak trimmed. You could also get an autofeeder.
verb: thrive; 3rd person present: thrives; past tense: thrived; past tense: throve; gerund or present participle: thriving; past participle: thriven
(of a child, animal, or plant) grow or develop well or vigorously.
"the new baby thrived"
Thriving means it's doing very well. And what do you suppose I supplement? Frozen Bloodworms? yea, cuz those have a lot of nutrients. My particular build also has a large colony of RCS, and the puffer eats them every once in awhile too, although I've never really seen it. I've seen the puffer nibble on plants too, as well as hunting the tiny copepods like critters in my java moss.
Not really simple at all, and very easy to fuck up. I havent done a water change in a month, and everything is just fine, I just remove plant matter on a weekly basis. It's a balance that's hard to achieve
What do you think the difference is between thriving and living? My aquarium gives him stimulation. He gets to hunt for his food all day, which trust me he loves to do. Yours has to waste his day doing nothing, just waiting til he can eat.
You could try the same concept with cherry shrimp and a betta, but I wouldn't try anything like that in less than a 20 gallon if you can't supervise it regularly.
It's a lot easier to do with only inverts, but most people seem to find that boring.
I assume you're referring to the automatic feeder, but even then, it'd fill the litter box and shit all over the carpet.
Just a heads up to people in the United States, Petco seems to be having a sale. Just got a metal aquarium stand for a 20long/29 for $30, which I really needed for the 20long I got from Pet Supplies Plus a couple weeks ago. I also got some 20lb bags of black sand.
There's free shipping codes and discount codes on retailmenot.com, in addition to a ton of stuff just being on sale.
I don't work for Petco.
most of the pond will be 3 ft, some sections less, in the main section i may try to make a deep hole at 5 ft, im igging by hand so im not going to go crazy but 3 ft with slight water moment shouldn't freeze solid( ive only had 3 or more ft of ice once in the past 10-15 years ) going to sput yellow perch , some sort of pickerel ( ideally redfi n or grass but i will settle for chain if i ant find the ones i want ) and siome sort of catfish ( probably some white cats or bullhead ,
i tried to dig yesterday, but 1.5 ft of frozen solid ground was a bit of an issue, i dont own a pickaxe currently, but my axe and sledgehammer worked alright for a while, digging in 5 degrees wasnt pleasent so i didnt stay out for long
also 5 ft wont be a whole pond, it will proably just be one deep spot, that isnt very big even if i do have a total freeze i just catch more fish next year pond wont be pretty but il grow some fat fish
> there is an aquarium general on 4chan now
Based as fuck, i tried starting one years ago and got zero replies
Ive never tried a cichlid tank before and really want to start one but i love my shoal of 10 Dwarf Chainlink Loaches too much, is it a good idea keeping them all together?
Plus i remember trying to catch some candystripe loaches from a different tank and do not want to go through that ordeal again
Not sure what cichlids i will be going for yet but they wont be anything too big, just some interesting little ones i could breed
They are currently in a 180l > corner fluval venezia
Also are there any nanoshrimpfags around here?
>The aquarium generals have been going at least since I started coming here a year and a half ago.
generals are against 4chan philosophy in a number of ways.
the only reason they survive is all the newfags don't know where they are and the oldfags have long since left.
Hello my fellow loachfag
The answer is loaches, always more loaches.
Also, try peacock gudegons if you can find them, cave dwelling and easy to breed pairing fish from Asia. Pretty much an Asian version of a dwarf cichlid.
> le epic oldfag generals are bad meme
No one cares about your 4chan philosophy pops, if we did then we would all be talking about anigay
Generals are perfect for subjects such as this, no one wants to search for a single question thread that dies after 11 posts
Where should a start with CO2? Is there stuff you wish you had known before you started using it? What kind of system did you get and how much did you spend on it?
I'm planning on starting a planted 20g soon and I've only done low tech thusfar.
Hello loachbro, nice cloud botia
Funnily enough i used to keep peacock gudgeon, i had one that had an arrow instead of the usual spot next to its tail and was trying to breed him to get lots of arrow babies, but he died after a year and the rest followed soon after.
Had him with 3 females and couldnt get jack shit out of them
I think i wasnt mixing enough nutrients with my RO, now i use half treated tapwater/half RO
I have personal experience with this shit, anon. My dad kept Bala sharks in a ten gallon and they stayed small, and my aunt has kept goldfish in bowls for decades and they too stay small. It's not even slightly healthy for them, but there is truth in the statement that they won't grow bigger than the tank they're in. Animals become stunted if you try, just look at bowl goldfish or Chinese orphanage girls.
>That fish you've not seen for weeks and thought dead makes a reappearance
Hissss my water sssssnek. I want kuhlis but I'm down to one tank and not sure how'd they do with my delhezi. Don't kuhlis get a decent size?
It won't really come out until feeding time. He was given to me by someone who was feeding them only algae wafers and he was the only survivor. I have a school of emerald corys but if I can ID him I will get him a school of his kind. All he does is hide till there's food while my other corys are all over the tank doing flips and shit.
Goldfish and koi are the most overrated fish of all, especially by pondkeepers.
What kind of cichlids were you considering? I think smaller West African or South American cichlids would work better than African cichlids.
Kuhli or dwarf chain loaches would be best for a 20 gallon. The chain loaches are more interesting imo, butbtheyre harder to find and more expensive.
Either a trilineatus or a julii. I'm leaning toward the former. You can tell by the pattern on the head and the color, but it's hard sometimes. Trilineatus are a lot more common and are often sold as julii (eg >>2063428 is trilineatus), but if you can figure out which one it is and get more of the right kind, their behavior is going to be better/more natural.
I usually feed frozen bloodworms, cyclops, or sinking micro pellets, so it's not that. I guess I'll look for some tablet type food that the other fish can't just scarf down. Thanks.
I like them all right. They're flame tetras, much more interesting than neons anyway. I might get rid of them in the future to make room for more kuhlis or some small hatchetfish, if I can ever find some.
I assume he comes to the surface when you go to feed them? I was thinking of bringing the net up from underneath him until the edges are above the water. Though that might still scare him.
Otherwise maybe getting some floating pellets for him and using a syringe to put food for the other fish directly into the middle or bottom section of the tank while he's distracted.
Possibly. I'm not familiar with any spotted cories that also have stripes on their eye, or how Corydoras hybridization works. It could also just be a natural variant of the pattern. I think you'll be fine if you get him some false julii to shoal with.
>that kek when search "corydoras hybrid" and get pic related on google
There are hundreds of corydoras species, and many of them don't even have names yet. Trilineatus is the best guess, but it could be anything. Many of the species we do know about might actually be color variations of the same species.
Mixes are rare, but I believe a few cory species have been documented hybridizing in captivity.
What is this little guy? I got him as a little tiny bugger but I still can't identify him (n00b aquarist, I know).
So, I have a 20 gallon community tank that I plan to move to a 55 gallon. I have a number of tetras (glowlight, black neon, neon), 4 panda cories, 3 albino cories, a lavender gourami, 3 mollies, 3 snails (will be 6-8 once I put my nursery snails in the 55), as well as Kuhli loaches and a pleco that I already have lined up for the new tank.
I can't get ghost knife fish because they eat snails, I can maybe get another lavender gourami but I don't want another one of those dickheads pestering my tetras, dwarf frogs need a shallower tank, crabs and crayfish also pose a danger to snails and tetras... I mean I could get other tetra species but I think that'd be boring. Suggestions?
I'm planning on planting the shit out of this tank and aquascaping caves and terraces, if that helps.
I've been adding aquarium salt to my freshwater tropical and goldfish tanks for years and I just recently acquired a 7lb box of Instant Ocean Reef Crystals for free at my local fish store for being a "valued customer."
I really had no use for, considering I don't own a reef tank, but it was free.
It's specifically made for soft corals, invertebrates, and salt water tanks in general, but would there be any harm in adding a tablespoon or two into my freshwater tanks?
Depends entirely on the size of the fish. If the fish are just in the tetra/molly range, then probably no bigger than a couple inches in diameter.
However, if you have bigger fish than that, such as a betta splendens, then you're probably gonna have to make it at least half a foot in diameter.
Get a vampire shrimp, they get massive, some of them are/turn blue, and they are filter feeders.
Or thai micro crabs.
Also, look into killifish, they may get along with their potential tank mates.
Or a Betta imbellis, but make damn sure it's an imbellis (peaceful betta) rather than a splendens.
Best of luck anon! As for keeping the tubes clean, just make sure they are short enough, get some kind of aquarium safe flexible pipe cleaning thing, like those "snakes" plumbers use. Then simply attach an aquarium safe sponge onto one end that's of the right size. Bend it, insert it into the tube, and swishy swish away just before every water change.
Thinking about something like this
I want to see the fish compete/flee with other species of fish.
If some are bothering others they can just go back to their tank and the others may try to take over their tank as well.
I also want to try and link the bigger tank so that the smaller ones can piss off the bigger fish then run away in tubes too small for the big fish.
Tl;Dr I want to watch the world burn underwater.
I play with my fish with a laser pointer. Am I insane yet?
Also, it won't drive them crazy or anything, right? Are there other ways to keep my fish stimulated? I don't want them to be sad lumps.
Not them, but I feel like a lot of them are just big ol' fuglies that just also happen to be expensive. If I'm going to break the bank on a tank, I'd like the fish to at least be flashy.
I was doing some light research on discus.
Every resource is pretty much like "rawrawrawr, the water must be immaculate". I have zero authority on discus but I am curious about how true this is, and a bit skeptical. There's so much heresay in this hobby without hard science to back it up. Obviously ammonia and nitrites are bad, but a stable and cycled tank should have neither, leaving only nitrates, which should be safe under a certain threshold.
Frankly I can't be bothered to do multiple water changes in a single week. In fact, I've become lazier and lazier about my water changes over time. My experience is that with my tank heavily planted, somewhat over-filtered, and with plenty of bottom feeders to do some cleanup, my water quality is stable, nitrates pretty much hover around 10ppm, everything looks healthy from what I can see. Even when livestock dies, my shrimp will clean up the remains in a few days.
But discus keepers have like, automated water changes, or do multiple water changes a week.
I kind of want to see how practical a low-maintenance discus tank can be. Low maintenance meaning bi-weekly or even monthly water changes.
Although to be honest, are discus not kind of boring? I peeped a couple of YouTube videos and they just seem to mosey around like pancake water-blimps. They look pretty, that's about it. Which makes the water changes seem even less appealing.
They're cute but I never see the fucks. I've only ever owned three at a time. It seems like they're a lot more active when there's a sizable school.
>Am I insane yet?
>it won't drive them crazy or anything
IDK, I could see it potentially stressing them out. What is their behavior? If they're chasing the light, sounds like good exercise. If they're running from it or alarmed by it, could just be stress.
You're in a territory all on your own with this man
They chase it or ignore it. I found a use for it, I can actually lead some of them to the algae wafer when they don't notice it. Even the kuhlis will chase it for a short distance, so now I can summon the horde and ensure none of the wafer will go to waste.
The farther removed the discus is from the wild, the hardier it is (aka the longer the generations have been captive bred). All of the stock you see in stored is going to be really far removed from wild stock, so they're far hardier than they were several years ago. If you're planning on breeding them, then yes, immaculate water is more or less necessary, but for simple maintenance the biggest hurdle is simply having easy access to soft water. If your tap is soft you're golden. If it isn't you have to fuck around with RO water and other such bs. I've also read that feeding exclusively bloodworms or meaty foods (as many people do) result in larger, more colorful fish, but that they are also more sensitive, and that a varied diet is better for their resilience. I don't know how much truth there is to that.
They have a niche kind of appeal that isn't going to jive with everyone. They'll recognize you, come up to the glass to greet you, and follow your finger around, but for the most part their appeal is simply that they're pretty.
>It seems like they're a lot more active when there's a sizable school.
It's true. Unfortunately not many of us can support a 10,000 liter tank with 700 little algae eaters.
Thought I'd share a picture of my 20g planted tank
Ignore the breeder box in the top left, I'm growing some bamboo in it for another tank
Trying to start a 20gl, have a seeded sponge filter from a friend to get the cycle going till my canister filter comes in and a light he wasn't using.
Stole some of his plants and his"trash driftrood" and tried to make some sort of tree. May put dark substrate in the empty spot.
2 hours rinsing, 2 days left alone and a 50% water change and you still cannot see shit, fuck this sand.
Any ideas what I should put in it? I kind of like the tree look but hate the shit out of the sand.
Is a betta, 3-5 Cory's, and a few random shrimp a good comp?(if the betta doesn't eat the shrimp)
Corys would be shit in there since they like being in groups of 6 or more and need something closer to 30+ gallons to thrive in.
On the other hand, you could get 10-13 pygmy corys in there.
If you really want a betta, you could, but you could get much more interesting fish in there, like celestial pearl danios with a trio of sparkling gouramis if your water is around 6.5 pH and you plan on heavily planting the tank.
Shit, well we have a betta that's like 2 or 3 years old, wife got it for me for valentine's day but I don't remember what year but I was gonna toss him in there as a retirement home since I've read that 3 is "old"
How are pygmy corys different than normal ones other than the size? What types do I look for, or does it just say "pygmy cory" on the sign lol.
I'm not dead set on Cory's but I definitely want something bottom dwelling, active, and won't get picked on my a betta.
Also can you guys tell me what this plant is? The guy I got it from just shrugged.
Hey, I bought 4 GBRs a few weeks ago, and so far 2 have died. I want to know what's causing them to die. Params are 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, ~20ppm nitrate, and pH is 7.8. I suspect that the pH is to blame, but I'm not sure. Here's a pic of one that's not doing well at the moment. It's lost a lot of coloration and is hardly eating. The other one however is doing quite fine.
Here's the other one. Tankmates are just three mollies and some fry. I have the lights on for 12 hours and off for 12, should I change that? The mollies have been in for around 2 months. Tank is 25g.
They generally do better in soft, acidic water. Softness is flexible, but when I was keeping rams they did best in a pH of 6.0-6.4. I couldn't keep them alive over 7.2, even captive-bred. They also like it on the warmer side, around 82-85F.
On the less-quantitative side, they seemed to prefer a well-established, planted tank. I had a few pairs that I put in cycled bare-bottom tanks, and one pair that was put in a community tank that had been up and running for 18 months. The ones in the community tank are the only pair that bred consistently and they lived the longest. The bare-bottom setups had plenty of driftwood, clay pots, etc. for cover, and the parameters were otherwise identical.
I adopted this big weather loach and got him some little golden friends. He pushes them around too much, but I feel like it's better than having him by himself.
The water will clear up on it's own. It'll happen a lot faster once you have a filter running.
The stocking is fine. You could do a dozen pygmy/dwarf/dainty cories, or 6 or so medium sized ones like panda or three-lined.
A 20 long is more than adequate for most small and medium cories.
The black spot is entirely black, indicating a amle. Females have blue scales mixed with the black. Rams have no central blue spot, I have no idea what you're on about.
He also has the right fins to be male, not female.
Weather loaches are so adorable. They're like giant kuhlis
Next tank in a long time from now when I upgrade to a 75 gallon, I'm getting a trio of Dojo Loaches with a planted tank all to themselves. Nothing rooted in the substrate of course, all stuff like Java Fern, Anubias, and moss superglued to driftwood and rocks
Update to the tank I posted 1-2 weeks back. Added a multicolor led, added more plants, up to 2.5w per gallon for plant lighting. Added in 7 rainbowfish, 4 species.
Anyone knows if White Cloud Mountain minnow/tanichtys are ok with Clown Loaches?
Cause I had quite a lot of snails on my aqua for a while now, and it seems like loaches are a good way to get all the snails.
Is there anything I can do with floating Riccia so it isn't blown all around my tank making a mess?
I bought some to grow on the bottom of my tank but I didn't realise it is supposed to be a floating plant which tends to die underwater without co2.
Here's Mr. Mango in quarantine, showing off his distinctive dark throat breeding colors
yea off course, the red tail cat is the only fish in the world which grows big! just look at this bala, I'm sure you could fit it in a 5 gallon if you got it when it was young enough, after all - fish only grow after their tanks :^)
[spoiler]kill yourself or read up.[/spoiler]
I have white clouds and really like them, cool to watch then display at each other. I have never seen them interact with any of my other fish.
>white clouds just stay at the top of the tank and keep to their own kind in a non-aggressive way
So my new betta is super aggressive but I'm not giving up on the idea of putting shit in the tank with him. 10g with just a betta is just too boring.
he currently spends all day hitting the nerite snail. Are white clouds fast enough to actually run from a betta? I feel like maybe if I had some kind of school of fish in there he'd decide that some part of the tank is his territory and just stay there. I've seen bettas do that before
Your best bet with that tank is to remove the betta and move everything around. You then wanna add in the new fish before the betta. Moving stuff around supposedly breaks up existing territories.
Oh shit I just found out this thing exists. Anyone have any familiarity with it?
I don't want to use the huge diffuser thing I want to use a standard glass/ceramic diffuser. One of those and a bubble counter runs about $17. So effectively I'd be buying the fluval kit simply for the brackets and regulator valve. About a $40 total cost, shipping included, to get up and running
It looks like most regulator valves cost more than $25 by themselves, so the fluval really seems to be the best price?...
I already have carbonate buffer and stuff, I'm ready to get started on this. Just installed some microanthetum and I'm sure it will die in like 2 days without co2. Just dosing some flourish excel for now.
Anyone have any suggestions to how I can improve my budget tank?
For plants I have:
>java moss and fern
No reason to use an airstone. Get http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY to do the job you are using a rag to do. As other guy said, goldfish actually grow to gigantic size and are not appropriate for a 10g
it needs a vertical rock/branch element.
>tfw aquaponic setup tilting over from weight and you spend tons of money to revamp
>tfw after set up Black Friday is in like 3 weeks
>tfw could have gotten 120 gallon tanks for the price of 70 gallon tanks
Also how do you guys keep your plants in the tank anchored and not constantly ripped out ;_;
btw here's my tank that i'm talking about adding co2 injection to.
As you see my swords are dying again. The teeny tiny one up front had 2 living leaves remaining. It just seems like no matter waht you do, you cannot keep aquarium plants other than java fern alive without co2.
I'm starting to feel hesitant about that fluval mini co2 system. Because if I have to manually turn it on and off every day, then that means I have to put the little dial on the exact same setting every day, and that sounds irritating/difficult. I imagine for this type of setup I'd need less than 1 bubble per second.
You could try wrangling as much of it into a large single mass as possible, then tie it to a suction cup or use a shit ton of super glue, then attach the suction cup to the back of the tank at water level.
If there's enough of it, you won't even see the suction cup, especially since you can get aquarium grade ones that are barely bigger than a quarter. So, in essence, it will "float" in one spot until you get bored and decide to move it.
Your tank is gorgeous broski, are you the same anon that made your background yourself entirely out of foam? If so, how do you stop it from soaking up the aquarium water and leeching all kinds of chemicals into the tank?
>As you see my swords are dying again. The teeny tiny one up front had 2 living leaves remaining. It just seems like no matter waht you do, you cannot keep aquarium plants other than java fern alive without co2.
False. Plenty of plants are very easy to grow without CO2, but you need a good substrate. If all you're using is sand, of course you won't be able to grow a heavy root feeder like amazon swords. Get some root tabs.
If the plant is completely removed from the substrate then just get an aquarium safe weight, or a decently sized rock that won't dissolve in the water. Super glue or tie the weight to the base of the plant near/underneath the roots. Then just bury the roots, rock and all.
But you should research first, are your plants really being ripped out? Or are they a species that shouldn't be buried, and the parts underneath the substrate are rotting away?
How big is the fish? If it's really big and strong then the only way to really keep those plants in place is to get a massive rock/log and super glue the plants to that, low enough that if you bury the rock/log then the roots will also be buried.
Of course, if the fish is strong enough, they will probably just tear the plant in half.
So what species do you have?
Yes that is the background I made myself, mostly out of foam.
Essentially all of the materials are inert and have nothing to leach once cured.
The pink or blue insulation foam aka polystyrene does not absorb moisture.
However, the foam is completely covered in drygard (drylok is a similar brand) which is a concrete sealer, so there is no fear of absorption anyways.
And for colors on the background, the drygard was mixed with concrete colorant which is also inert.
Other than that 100% silicone for adhesion.
The only downside to the background is no rasping fish because they can eat through it, so no pleco or loaches.
I just stocked mine today with rainbow fish and 1 albino rainbow shark.
>pic related test fit
Getting a 350l soon for my loaches, thinking of a large, solitary, centrepiece fish.
So far, I've been attracted to either the red tailed shark, or the rainbow shark, but I'm not sure which to get. I've heard the red tail is more aggressive, but smaller, while the ruby is more calm, but bigger. Can anyone confirm this?
If Bettas can't be kept in a small tank, what can? I have a friend that insists on buying a five gallon tank and wants a "cool" fish
Mind you, he is big on salt water tanks, so he *should* know what he's doing
You know what else has piss poor reviews? Growing a root feeder in nothing but sand. A shitty root tab is better than no root tabs.
For what it's worth, I've used Flourish root tabs in tanks with cherry shrimp, so the amount of copper seems to be negligible.
I won't buy API root tabs after reading the reviews. A non-functional product that kills my fish is indeed worse than nothing. Did you know fish are more alive than plants, by the average person's estimation? I don't care if the plants die.
And I won't put anything with copper in. So I guess maybe I'll just ditch swords. I still think they'll grow just fine with co2.
I have one that came with my Fluval Flora. It works well, but the diffuser is ugly and bulky, and the cartridges are expensive and they only last about ten days. I used mine until I ran out of the cartridges it came with. If you have a brewery or bicycle shop nearby you should be able to get 16g threaded CO2 cartridges for a lot cheaper than the Fluval replacements, but those will run out slightly more quickly.
All in all, it's cheaper and easier to maintain a conventional setup if you can handle the startup costs, but that one will work for a small tank up to about 10 gallons.
It's a bell style diffuser. They work well, they're just bulky. The anon with the dwarf puffer 4 gallon uses one he made himself. If you tried to use a ceramic/glass diffuser with those tiny CO2 cartridges it'd constantly fizzle out as the pressure in the can dropped and you'd have to readjust it throughout the day, which could result in a lot of pH swings. You'd also probably go through one cartridge every day or two.
>You'd also probably go through one cartridge every day or two.
nowhere near that, they last 2 weeks to a month of standard use based on what people have said.
why just type shit when you have no idea what the fuck you're talking about? it's people like you that make this hobby far more difficult, throwing fucking ignorant misinformation out
Those cartridges are about as big as your dick, like three inches. And just like your dick, they aren't going to spew forth a constant stream for two weeks to a month, dillweed. You'll need something at least as big as your puffy black asshole for that.
in my experience they are very intelligent and by no means "little"
they do have more individuality than most fish so yours might be dopey
dont forget they're blind so they bump into stuff in new environments
>barren empty tank
Seems silly to put an animal into a purposefully stressful environment for the sake of making sure that it's not susceptible to illnesses that can be caused by stress.
I don't have CO2 and only dose Excel (if I remember to). My sword plant is an overgrown piece of shit. It also has multiple runners with baby plants growing off of it. It basically took over my tank and I'm actually thinking of getting rid of it.
The only way I can see having trouble with it is if your lighting is weak. Your lighting looks decent in your pic (although it's awfully white). But even then I'd just expect slow growth, not death.
Which leads me to wonder if your plants are getting any nutrients. Are there even any fish in the tank? How often are you feeding your livestock?
Whatever the case, you really shouldn't need CO2 to grow a sword plant, and my tank is a jungle despite being low-tech.
You might have better success with a dirted tank and a tank with plenty of livestock to feed. If you're using inert sand, you either need to use root tabs, or dose dry ferts, or use liquid ferts like Seachem Flourish which are really expensive.
I've already taken in account for fish getting big, I never planned on keeping them in a 5 gallon tank expecting them to stay an inch.
When I was asking for specific reasons I should have asked for something other than the obvious size answer
Are there any plants that can survive fish bullying?
But yeah right now I can't do anything other that aquariums until I have a house I can build something bigger for an outside aquaponic.
Amazon Sword is big enough that it will take a good while for the fish to eat it down to the point it can't survive. Other than that you're probably limited to ones that reproduce too quickly in the tiny areas behind the heater and such, like duckweed. But you don't want duckweed.
Consider plastic plants, some of them look good.