>>2052476 look into molting. most dangerous time for a spider. she will reject food for a while prior to molting and will likely molt on her back looking dead with some silk under her body. remove any prey during that time a cricket or roach could actually eat her instead of the other way around. bitch will be a softshell mirelurk all vulnerable and shit
>>2052476 Is that your T? Do you know the species or at least genus? Most tarantulas are fairly easy to take care of so long as you know what they need, most of the problems arise from people who aren't used to dealing with fast animals.
This guy generally knows what hes talking about. Read everything on his site besides the page on ICUs. No, not dead. As long as legs are extended its okay. Spiders use hydraulic pressure to move their legs, so if all the legs are curled under the body, its dead or dying. Dehydration is easily avoided by providing a full water dish (just water, no sponge or gel EVER). Yours is fine. Tarantulas are pretty forgiving in that most of them can go a long time in a pretty fucked up enclosure. They dont just die overnight. Unless you have active pesticides in your house. Treat any pesticide like tarantula-cide.
Please give more info about your purchase. What was it sold to you as? It looks like a Psalmopoeus cambridgei but I may be wrong. In any case it is definitely arboreal. Arboreal tarantulas live in treetops and therefore need more vertical space. They appreciate hollowed cork bark tubes leaned vertically, try to find one at a pet store. It seems you basically have it set up like a terrestrial, which is fine in the short term, but you should design a proper enclosure in the next couple weeks. If you have the monry get a 12X12X18 or 8X8X12 zoo med or exo terra. Otherwise you need to improvise something tall and well ventilated.
If Im right on the species ID, you have a rather venomous tarantula, so treat her with a lot of respect.
Also, never feed wild caught bugs/lizards. And dont leave anything in with the tarantula for more than 12 hours or so. She probably wont eat but thats okay. Adults can be fed only one large bug a month and stay healthy. Having water is much more important for them.
This is basically what you're going for. The plant is an aquarium one buried into the substrate and the cork came from a bulk order on amazon. The moss is sphagnum, it's safe and holds water, so it's great for tarantulas that need a little more humidity.
>>2052571 >people who aren't used to dealing with fast animals
Yeah these can be pretty fucking quick https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUbckLuhkQk By the way, the guy in the video is a dumbass because the tarantula is clearly panicking the fuck out. Luckily it jumps into its enclosure instead of the floor.
>>2052664 It's my first pet I don't have a lot of space at home and I really wanted a pet, fish doesn't seem exciting, snakes seem a lot harder to take care so I got a spider, that seemed like my best choice
>>2052670 Unless she hasn't eat for a month or longer don't worry about it. Does she have a water dish?
Tarantulas usually move slow. They move fast when they are hunting or escaping as you can see in the video.
She is in the dirt to try to find somewhere to hide because there's nothing vertical like the log I showed you in my earlier pic.
I just want you to be prepared. It would've been nice if you researched beforehand. I think the seller should have warned you it's very fast and highly venomous. You need to be mentally prepared to be able to catch her if she escapes. Fast tarantulas can actually move faster than you can physically see. I've been keeping tarantulas for about a year and I'm still a little jumpy with them sometimes. I think you would've been much better off starting with a calmer species with mild venom. But if you want to go through with it you're going to need to listen to what I said and learn proper care.
If you're sure you can take care of her and deal with the possibility of being bitten, I can try to try to talk to some more experienced keepers to give you more specific information on the species because I honestly don't know the specifics. For example I think I remember someone's Psalmopoeus species burrowing even though it had an arboreal setup. Strange behavior like this isn't something to worry about, basically the first thing you have to do is get over your need to fuss about everything the animal is doing because you don't understand it.
By the way, tarantulas are the #1 hardest animal to learn husbandry for through google because there's multiple things wrong with basically every care sheet. This one I found for your genus has two problems that most other caresheets share:
http://www.mikebasictarantula.com/Psa-irminias-care-sheet.html >I keep the temperature between 78°-82°F and the humidity at 65%-75% Big tarantulas can deal with hugely variable temperatures anywhere from the mid 50's to the to high 80s. Relative humidity is not actually that important to them, but some species, like having some water added to the substrate around once a week. I THINK yours is in this category of needing a little more humidity (again, not totally familiar) but you should never need to know the specific humidity %'s. And the T can be kept at room temperature as long as you dont feel like you need to bundle up. Make sure it's far away from all A/C vents, forgot to mention that. A/C (and heat if it's close enough) kills them. Do not use heat lamps/pads. > Now I give my Venezuelan Suntiger two (2) -one inch B. dubia roaches or seven (7) adult crickets weekly. Definitely overfeeding. 28 crickets a month is just awful. Good way to have an obese pet.
The closest thing the hobby has to a good care book is The Tarantula Keeper's Guide by Schultz (same guy who wrote the website I linked earlier). However, even that is outdated and full of misinformation.
>>2052685 You basically need to do two things. One, a water dish, for like the 5th time. She is probably dehydrated because they are not a desert species. A gatorade or milk bottle cap works well. Bury it partially into the substrate. (see >>2052652). You need to get a syringe to put water in it. You cant just take it out every time. Get sphagnum moss. Put some of it around the dish and then overflow it so that the moss is wet. This will increase the humidity and let the T know there's a source of water. Hopefully you'll be able to do this without her reacting to all of the movement. Try to put the dish in a corner so you only have to lift a little bit of the lid to fill it.
This leads to my next point, that cage sucks. I can see why the former owner (who you REALLY should've asked more about the spider) gave it away. With that kind of cage, it's almost impossible to safely to do anything, because you have to put your arm in there from the top. And as you can see in the video I showed you, they can just leave if they get scared/defensive and the lid is off. More importantly, arboreal tarantulas, specifically ones kept more humid (like yours) need CROSS VENTILATION. This means there's ventilation on the top AND the sides. An aquarium fails miserably at this and there's going to be a lot of stagnant air, which causes mold and basically kills your tarantula slowly. I would try to get something new for her in a week. If you can't afford a shiny new exo terra/zoo med brand terrarium, just try to get something plastic that you can poke holes in, that's taller than wide, and at least 12" tall. It needs to be the kind of plastic that bends easily and doesn't crack. Like the kind in rubbermaid or tupaware. Walmart has selections. Poke many holes around the side and through the lid with a heated needle.
For now, just hydrate her and figure out what you're putting her in.
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