Pic is an anery palmetto corn snake. The palmetto gene is a very rare mutation that was found, as I understand it, in a single wild caught male corn. It is single recessive. And yes, they are still crazy expensive. Pic is anerythristic + palmetto to achieve the grey/black scales.
and here is the standard palmetto morph with red/black/grey scales blotches.
but, as cool and unusual as the palmetto is, I still have the okeetee as my very favoritist corn morph.
So, in the last thread I learned that it was pretty much a bad idea to put any other amphibians in a tank with my eastern newt, other than other newts. But what about snails?
I tried looking it up, but most websites only talk about FBNs living with snails, not eastern newts.
Got a couple thousand bucks handy?
Fortunately a pure white or near white corn snake is much more common, minus the splotch patterns unique to the palmetto. Blizzard and whiteout corns very common very affordable and very lovely in their own right.
Yea no no way to afford a palmetto right now, but its been on my wishlist. Ive never seen the palmetto bred to other morphs, I think a butter or lavender palmetto would be awesome.
Im actually really into the tessera pattern, much more affordable.
Cant get any new animals anytime soon anyway though
Switching from a heat lamp to a UTH for my corn, and the instruction manual with the UTH says it recommends sticking it on the side of the tank instead of the bottom. Would that be fine? It'd be easier and the tank's covered on three sides anyway so it wouldn't be an eyesore, my only concern is keeping the inside of his hide warm enough that way, coming form underneath would do a better job of that but it'd be kinda awkward to stick the UTH on while he's in the cage.
I know exactly what ur talking about and I did the same. Stuck it to the side. But then read a few books on corns and they recommend underneath. With decent substrate, underneath is fine, and creates a heat gradient.
Think about thermodynamics. Heat rises, so if you put it on side, it doesn't heat much of the tank, the heat just flows up the side. Under the tank has more surface area for the heat to utilize and your snake can make itself comfy as long as you have a gradient.
Google "vivarium heat gradient". However, if it's a really small viv, like 10 gallon size... Side mounting might be preferred due to volume of the tank. I have a 20 gallon vivarium and I used to use under tank UTH.
PS: I just use heat lamp now since its not scorching hot. My uth used to get up to 90+ and corn tube dude did not like. But I also live down south (NC). monitor your heat temps and adjust according
It's just a 10-gallon tank, the one I grabbed said it was sized for 10- to 20-gallon tanks.
I'm in Minnesota and my house is pretty damn cold and dry, and the heat lamp is kinda killing my humidity while keeping the tank just under 80 degrees.
I figure the UTH will probably be a bit warmer while also not drying everything out, and a couple people form the last herp general recommended switching to a UTH.
Put on the bottom and use a thermostat to regulate the temperature. Side is really inefficient and if you're going to do that you might as well skip the uth entirely and use a lamp. I dunno why it says to do that on the package.
probably just ass-covering legalese.
I did pick up a thermostat with it since literally everything I've seen recommending a UTH came with the caveat that a thermostat was as good as necessary.
tesseras are amazing. makes corn look like garter snakes a little.
Yeah. The reason thermostats are important is that UTHs are designed to get to about 100F and, if they're faulty, can get even hotter than that. Fortunately they work well even with basic on/off style thermostats so it doesn't mean a huge expense to keep your temps right where you want them in the safe range for your pet.
Yeah, I've got it set to about 85 right now, just put it in. Temp in the tank dropped to about 70 while I was putting it in, do they take a while to get up to heat?
And I've got maybe an inch and a half or two inches of aspen shavings (just zoo med snake bedding), is that too much to transfer heat properly? The little guy likes to burrow so I don't really wanna skimp on it.
So, my brother has some crazy plan to procure a new reptile: a Nile Monitor. He says it's about 3 feet right now, should I be concerned?
I feel like it's worth mentioning that he has also managed to briefly care for a rat snake, ball python, and bearded dragon before flipping them for cash (which I find thoroughly unfortunate as they were all so charming). He seems to have the necessary knowledge, but is there anything anyone can fill me in on that may be relevant to housing this animal that will eventually be enormous? Is it dangerous? How much room do they need? How much do they eat, and how often do they require attention?
it will probably be unhandleable, get huge, is capable of landing you in the ER, needs a cage that's like 8x5x5 BARE MINIMUM with a couple feet of dirt and multiple bulbs making a 130+ degree basking spot the size of the entire animal, and they eat an absolute truckload.
They are the scaredest snakes. But love being fondled :'3
Mine is afraid of everything (snakes have shit eyesight btw) but flicks his lil tongue and is super curious when I hold him. Prolly trying to plan his great escape but still a qtp2t
Hey /an/, Ive got a BP thats about 3ft long and maybe about 6ish inches around. Ever since winter hit he's not been feeling up to eating small rats, so Ive switched him to two adult mice a week. Is this enough? Ive heard things about prey animals not exceeding the widest point on the snake, but thats an upper bound, and he's at a healthy weight already. Think he'll make it until spring on just two mice a week?
And this guy has a zoo's worth of reptiles
Some of the shit he does kinda makes me uneasy like his shared barn thing.
Not nearly as bad as the fucking viperkeeper guy though I'm just waiting for him to be found dead
A UTH wont take more than like six hours to heat up. Turn that shit up, or insulate the bottom a little bit. Post a pic of your setup. I can imagine that if you have good airflow in your home and an open bottom allowing circulation under your UTH that could impact your temps.
Pretty ghetto setup right now.
A piece of fleece pinned up to wrap around three sides to try and insulate the tank and give the little guy a bit of privacy, a towel on top to hold in some of the hot air (don't think it's working though), and a hide on both (what's supposed to be) the hot side and the cool side.
The UTH came with some little stick-on rubber feet to raise the tank but the tank is slightly wider than the bookcase it's sitting on so the feet aren't actually raising it any.
Everything's plugged in and the thermostat's set to 85 but the thermometer in the tank is saying barely 70.
where is your temperature probe located? At the very least you should be getting a hot spot directly above the UTH. Measure temperature at the bottom of the substrate vs the top.
If ambient is too low, you can use a low wattage lamp to make up the difference.
Wait a second. Are you getting the 70F number from that dial half way up the back wall? If so, that's not accurate. The temperature that matters is right on the substrate. Yank that dial off the back and put it on the substrate. Then see what the temp is.
the probe's on the side, an inch or two above the substrate. the little instruction pamphlet that came with it said not to stick it in the substrate, thought it was okay where it was.
Got the thermometer kinda nestled into the substrate a little, we'll see where it is in a little bit.
do you have a temp gun?
The best thing to do honestly would have been to put the probe between the mat and tank
this will obviously give you a reading that way too high, but thats where you your temp gun comes in.
You point it at the spot on the inside of the tank and adjust your thermostat until it read right with the temp gun on the inside
I'm just going to let you know, a UTH by itself is not going to work in a house under 75F. You should invest in a CHE on a thermostat, ditch the UTH if you can't get ahold of another thermostat. A source of ambient heat is way more important right now.
With UTHs you want the thermostat probe outside the enclosure in between the UTH and the bottom of the enclosure. Then you use a temp gun to figure out what temperature the thermostat needs to be set at to get your desired temps (when measuring temps make sure you push the bedding aside and measure the temp of the surface of the tank, not the bedding).
With ambient heat, you want the probe a close to directly under the heat source as you can, high up enough the snake can't press up against it or pinch it with a hide.
Neither way should have the probe touching the substrate.
I doubt it. If they're feeding two jumbos, maybe. But I'd guess closer to 3-4 regular-sized adult mice would equal a small rat. Small rats are 45-80 grams, and adult mice are 13-25 grams, with jumbos generally being 30+ grams, and I've gotten jumbos as heavy as 70-75 grams before.
My bp is 3.5', 1380 grams when eating regularly, and it takes 3-4 regular-sized mice to even start leaving a bulge, but he can also take up to 6 comfortably.
Well the problem is that he's just a little lazy with the cold being what it is and probably doesnt think he can eat something that big. I didnt have any problems switching him from mice to rats in the first place, so I dont anticipate there being much of a problem.
All I really need to know is if this will be enough for him to maintain a healthy weight, which, by the sound of it, it may not be. Ill throw an extra one at him and we'll see how that goes.
If you don't think he's warm enough, you really shouldn't be feeding him at all until you get his ambients up to 75F, no part of the enclosure should ever fall below 75F, and if it does you withhold food until you can get it warm again.
Especially if you're the one with the UTH problems, belly heat is not enough if the rest of the enclosure falls below 75F. If you're only using a UTH, get some ambient heat and then start feeding again when he gets a hot spot of at least 85F and his ambients are no less than 75F.
I still have a heat lamp I can use in the meantime, but I'll make a run to the pet store today and see if I can find a CHE there.
The thermostat I have has two plugs in it, so would I be alright to have the UTH and a CHE both plugged into it, or would it be safer/smarter to have each one on their own thermostat?
Its not that I dont think he's warm enough, its just that the glass is a little cold on the cold side. The internal temp is fine but in general he's probably exposed to a more severe temp gradient.
If it can control two heat sources, yeah. What brand and model is it?
Temp gradients are good, a temp gradient from 75F to 90F is good, if that's possible. If you're the one with the 65F room, that isn't going to happen, though. If you're not that person, then as long as the room isn't falling below 75F a UTH by itself is fine.
With belly heat, the entire enclosure is room temp except one small surface on the bottom of the enclosure, and if you put a hot hide on top of it it might be a few degrees above room temp, maybe. But belly heat doesn't heat the air, so room temp is important, and an ambient heat source should be used if room temps are inadequate.
It's a Zilla 1000-watt temperature controller, dunno if there's a more specific model name for it.
right now the UTH and heat lamp are keeping things around 80, so still not good but at least not dangerously low. Gonna see what the local pet stores have, I'll be back in a bit
We came out to explore at about 2am this morning. Also note the new thermostat, works like a charm. Warm side's all comfy now. Also I got her to eat coke cut up pieces of superworm last night, very yummy
So I take it the room temp is 75F or higher?
Ball pythons are picky, it's just how they are. You could feed mice to them once and then they don't want another rat ever. They could go on a strike because it's winter and they want to breed, and then all of a sudden rats don't smell so tasty.
It's possible he was on a fast because it's winter time, and he just finds mice so tasty that he'd rather eat them than go into breeding mode, too.
Who knows? Ball pythons are irritatingly particular about even the smallest things in their husbandry and environment, I'm sure even a dust mote will throw them off, I swear. (Hyperbole, but hopefully that gives you an idea of what you're dealing with. It's why I'm not big on ball pythons, I'd rather look than own. Out of 7 snakes, only my ball python gives me problems and it's just a thing with them.)
I want to get a frog. I've looked around a bit and most sources say white's tree frogs are a good starter frog and they're pretty cute and chubby so I think I'd be happy with one.
How do I be a good frog master
I havent posted a photo of my gecko in a while
She's getting so big
After a couple hours, temp seems to be holding at 80 with the CHE and the UTH going.
I might have to throw the heat lamp back in too, unless I can convince my housemates to raise the heat up to something that isn't quite so cold
I just want to get it up to a solid 85 on the hot side, since that seems to be the right temp for temp to eat and the feeding chart they gave me with him at the store shows that they've been offering food for a solid month but he doesn't seem to have eaten any time they've offered.
That, and a lot of places made it seem like 85-90 was ideal for the hot side.
Yeah I agree, I'd avoid adding any other source of heat. I'd try insulating the tank a bit, even just a few pieces of cardboard would be enough if you don't want to buy insulation.
You just need some way to hold in the heat.
If you have a separate room you don't mind heating, you could also put the snake in a separate room and heat it to 75F or so.
Looking back, someone advised several inches of bedding over your UTH???? You shouldn't have it any deeper than 1/8" so the heat can properly disperse through the bedding and reach the snake. As far as the snake getting burned on the surface, as long as it's set up correctly and you're using a temp gun to monitor it, he'll be fine even sitting directly on the glass over the UTH. He can't get burned if the surface of the tank is only reaching your target temp of 85F.
1-2 inch of aspen is my usual for colubrids. That gives you enough to absord waste and potential spilled water dish water without the thing turning in to a disgusting fetid swamp before you can clean it. I do sweep it thinner directly under the warm side hide though.
1/8" of paper towels is an incredibly unrealistic thing for you to expect of me anon.
On a more serious notes, most of the advice I get is anywhere from 1/8"-1/2" of substrate when using a UTH or heat tape. With my overhead heating, I keep the bedding 2"-3" inches thick.
You also have to take into consideration the bedding. Aspen is easy to burrow into and is light and fluffy, so a deeper bedding would work but I still would honestly not even go up to an inch.
Soil-like beddings like EcoEarth and such do not allow heat to properly penetrate at 1/2". Believe me, I tried. That's why I now use paper towels. The heat transfer through two or three sheets of paper towels is really easy.
i'm having some problems setting up my first viv. It's wood and I have my thermostat and thermometer sensor under the reptile carpet above the heat mat and set to 30 celcius, but i'm only getting readings of 24. Could it be because the sensors aren't actually touching the mat (the wires naturally curve upwards). It doesn't seem really safe to tape them to the mat itself.
would putting them above the carpet in the viv exposed and taped down still be safe for a leo and give accurate readings?
Does anyone know a Uk snake seller that ships over Europe?
Or just any store with english option in europe that will shit to other countries in europe, I'm trying to find a Rainbow boa but the few available in my country are absurdly expensive
>watching Animal Cops on Animal Planet
>tuned in late
>don't know the circumstances but at some point they seized some herps from somebody
>they have a 15 gallon tank
>some nigger was keeping 2 white's tree frogs, 1 firebelly toad, a pacman frog, an anole, some kind of small snake and a juvenile leopard gecko all in the same enclosure
>they show the reptile lady who is now fostering the animals
>narrator say "now we know these might be some kooky, crazy pets..."
>shows like a bearded dragon and a pacman frog
>some of the normiest of all herps, like every kid had a bearded dragon at some point
>"they might not be for everyone, but we believe they have feelings, too"
>come on now
I get your point, but you grossly overestimate normies' familiarity with herps.
And then you get the tattooed dumbfucks you see at conventions who get huge, super exotic, high-maintenance herps with no knowledge or interest in the animal itself.
>They grow to fit the tank, right?
>Do you have any "dwarf iguanas?"
>Can this 15-foot python kill the mice in my house for me?
>Can any of these frogs sleep in bed with me?
>Do you have any "outdoor chameleons?"
You hear some shit, man.
Like seriously I see kids fucking walk out with baby savannah monitors on their shoulders and their parents asking "Is that an iguana?" They just gave the kid money and let him buy whatever.
Some bald dude with a tattoo of a cobra down his arm was buying his "first reptile." It was a burmese python and he was asking if it could be trained to attack intruders.
I don't use coconut mulch, but I use coco coir (EcoEarth), and even though it's a dirt-like substance I don't really experience all that much mess. What little gets on the floor I sweep up, and I blow out what gets in the doors' tracks, and that's about it. Takes less than a minute.
No, you want the thermostat probe to be as close to the mat as possible. You should be measuring the surface of the enclosure, not the surface of the bedding.
I have all 3 of my flex watt tubs set up with the probe in between the tub and the tape, I haven't gotten any problems so far, and one enclosure has been set up for 1.5 years and the other two have been set up for almost a year now. I'm not sure why you think it wouldn't be safe?
Also, tape inside a reptile enclosure? That's a huge mistake. Do not put tape in your reptile's enclosure.
God I hate normals. Don't savannah monitors get huge? Although I guess iguanas do, too. I also hate edgy faggots who want shit like attack pythons. God I fucking hate some people.
Like I've had people be afraid of my crested gecko before. Like the cutest little lizard in the world is somehow scary because it's a reptile?
I'm assuming these are reptile conventions you go to?
Yeah, they're reptile conventions. I think some vendors try to have age limits or proof of experience before selling an animal, but they get edged out by the vendors who sell unscrupulously.
I got a bearded dragon years ago from a family whose kid was telling me her name before I bought it, and how she liked dandelion greens the most. Next to them was a guy with like 50 newborn dragons in a tub for like 50 bucks a pop because he knew a bunch of them would just die anyway.
damn dude. and you feel safe with that slithering around ? he/she is a beauty though.
never owned a snake, do plan on getting a corn snake at some point for start, but i dont think i'll ever muster the confidence to have a venomous one. i just dont trust myself enough.
See that white shit on my turtle's shell? Is that shell rot? Or could it be just hard water staining? It won't come off despite me putting betadine on it and dry-docking the turtle.
Getting a milk snake soon. I have a lamp with a repto bulb and all that good stuff. But somthings telling me to get a uth. First snake so i dont really know fully what im doing but ive done reasech. So How do i use a uth. Do i need one? Should i use the lamp and a uth? And what uth should i buy or are they all the same?
Also I know a snake needs two hides on hot and cold side. But would a third hide hurt it?So i use a uvb light wiht heating pad? Do i turn the heating pad off ever? will the glass be ok?
Does anybody have a setup i can see to make sure im doing this right.Im trying to reaserch but im finding the same shit everywhere. If anybody owns a pueb and can tell me how they keep theyres that would be amazing
Yup. It's the 36x18x18. Blue tongue skink was one of the ideas I had, but I'm a little unsure of the feeding cost. My other ideas were a beardie, ornate uromastyx, or a group of pygmy leaf chameleons.
If dinosaurs had always been drawn feathered, I swear that monitors would be the go-to awesome big lizard; they run faster and longer than other lizards, they're the most intelligent lizards, and they even have fucking venom. They're sick dood.
Not all monitors have venom. And not all are a nightmare. Here is an argus I worked with and sold at the last show
Three new monocled Cobras that just came in. They are settling in their new cages. This is just what they were transported in
Whoa buddy, think you might have forgotten to put a glove on. That or you didn't know you'd fit in the shot.
>Lizard man confirmed
Im going to feel like a dork now telling people about my hero collection. Like I have all of *the* premiere normie herps, a painted turtle, pacman frog, crested gecko, Leopard gecko, african clawed frog, and a toad. I mean I love them but dude you're like 10 leagues above most of us here. I wish I could appreciate your pets to their full extent.
But then again I'm some poor college kid, I'm sure you have to be much much much more established than I.
Love your critters though. Very cool.
So what does everyone have in their collections? I currently have
1.0 Bearded Dragon
1.1 Kenyan Sand Boa
0.0.5 Oophaga pumilio 'Uyama River'
0.0.5 Ameerega trivittata 'Red'
0.1.1 Phelsuma laticauda
My current collection isn't that impressive. Most sold at the last show. All I have left are breeding trios and a few just personal snakes I've always wanted. I sold my kings which I regret but I'll get some back soon. If I could have an inland taipan I would be complete
This probably gets asked a lot by paranoid retards like me, but is this tail rot? His tail seems darker than the rest of him, but I'm not totally sure, as I don't know how it could have occurred.
tremper leopard gecko
normal leopard gecko
2 juvenile five lined skinks
green tree frog
albino desert kingsnake (I think)
spider ball python
juvenile savannah monitor
mainly normie shit, but its whatever I guess
The number is the amount of animals. The position is the sex of those animals. It goes:
Male.female.unsexed (unknown sex)
So, '1.2 crested geckos' means one male and two females. '0.0.1 gecko' means one gecko of unknown sex. And so on.
Can you let a tortoise roam free under supervision once in a while? This guy runs around a lot in his admittedly somewhat small outdoor enclosure and it seems like he enjoys going straight into one direction for some minutes. But I don't know, maybe it's too much stress?
>In elementary school
>Huge animal enthusiast and practically inhale books about them
>Animal classification worksheets
>Teacher marks off one question: claims Gila monster classified as a fish, not reptile
>Print out picture of Gila monster and show her information
>Dumb bitch still wouldn't change my grade
I will carry this grudge to my grave.
Does anyone have the WebM of a tortoise trying to flip over another off its back?
As long as you know they're instinctively inclined to burrow when it's the fall season and you don't have any predatory birds in the neighborhood.
Someone once thought their tortoise got eaten by a predator but it turned out it just burrowed under their house to make a den.
Okay guys, so I bought a filter for my newt, but I guess I'm fucking retarded because it said "works in only two inches of water", and when it got here the instructions said it need to be basically completely submerged in water, as well as inche between the filter and the gravel, so it really needs about 6 inches of water, but my newt only has 2 inches of fucking water. So, that's $15 down the fucking drain.
What filters do you guys use for this shit? How the fuck do you keep amphibian habitats clean?
So I picked up a spare reptile enclosure off the side of the road,The big deal was that there was some snake skin draped over it basically everywhere. Do you guys know any good reptile safe disinfectants because i'm quite worried that the former inhabitant died from some horrible disease. thankyou
Great question and something that doesn't get discussed enough in reptile keeping community. Reptiles Magazine has a good article on this that covers all the things you can use to sterilize a tank, here:
My suggestion is chlorhexidine, rinse, followed by a thorough once over with a hand steamer. That'll kill the fuck out of nearly everything on that tank. You can order chlorhexidine online. It is one of the main things used in veterinary clinics.
forgot the first step: disinfectants work best after you have washed the tank of any gunk and debris first. So, soapy water wash, get all the stuff stuck to it off, then go in and do the disinfection process.
1.2 leopard gecko
0.2.1 crested gecko
1.0 gargoyle gecko
0.1 leachianus gecko
0.0.1 tokay gecko
0.1 boa constrictor imperator
1.0 dumeril boa
1.0 western hognose
1.0 cali kingsnake
1.0 blue tongue skink
0.1 pink tongue skink
2.2 african fire skink
not too normie, i guess, and still building my collection
my leachie girl, Bayonnaise locale.
I just upgraded my leopard gecko to a 20 gallon long. I'm looking for suggestions on a background, preferably the kind that I can attach to the outside of the tank. I'm having trouble finding anything that will fit the dimensions and isn't fish related.
Just use Mars black acrylic paint. Use a small solid small cell white foam paint roller. It will take like 10 coats and you need to let dry in between. Use a brush to fill any small show through spots after the main painting is done. Looks super smooth and good. I have done it on many fish tanks. Way better than blue paint
Who has bought reptiles online before? What website are reputable and which are shady? I'd like to get a ornate wood turtle (r.p.manni) but can't find a breeder in Chicago. So I'm expand my search online.
I would rather do something less permanent and easy to do without needing to move my little guy. I like the cling on backgrounds that look like an environment most. Just nothing 3D.
For specific breeders, check if they have a Facebook page and see how active it is. That's often a good sign. Check fauna classifieds and kingsnake classifieds section. I don't know specific turtle/tortoise breeders. Google your desired species + breeder, see what comes up, then dig for dirt and bad reviews on those.
Try to avoid all-purpose reptile dealers, the kind that sell EVERYTHING. Those are usually bad. Backwater reptiles especially. The only halfway decent one in this category is LLLReptile.
So /an/, I need your opinion on something.
Last night I got into a facebook discussion (rather an argument...) with someone I used to work with at an exotics rescue. She had posted something someone she knows had typed up about how reptile owners need to be giving their reptiles larger enclosures and more enrichment (he even mentioned how people nowadays don't even feed live food anymore, but HE does).
I commented on it saying that in most cases, feeding live prey is pointless and possibly dangerous due to the possibility of injury, parasites, and other pathogens that may come with live prey.
Her response was to tell me I'm wrong because snakes hunt their prey and it's good for their bodies. The danger issue doesn't matter because the injury rate is so incredibly low, and for some reason asked me if I think snakes in the wild aren't subjected to parasites and diseases. She finished up with saying if you knock the rodent on the head it still gives the snake the "excitement of the hunt/kill but minimizes risk of injury".
So I looked up snake enrichment because I thought the whole thing she said sounded kind of messed up. Nearly everything I found agreed with me that you don't need live prey to provide enrichment (in fact, some owners/zoo keepers/whatever just rub the prey item all over the enclosure to provide a scent trail for the snake to hunt).
What's /an/'s take on this?
You're right, she's wrong. For herps, keeping things fresh for them is really simple matter of changing a piece of decor in their tank every once in a while, bringing them out to smell new things, making a scent trail in the tank definitely works, etc. They aren't like parrots, example, who are so intelligent they need social interaction and play for several hours a day lest they develop psychosis.
My little leo finally shed, now she developed spots on her head and stripes down her body/tail. She's also starting to get a little fatter.
Still trying to think of a name
this picture of an animal should scare you off....
heh should think twice next time you step to me, kiddo
Hey /herp/, I help out in a herpetology lab at my college. I feed the bearded dragons and stuff. I've got a problem, though- one of them doesn't really drink water enough. I have to bathe him to get him to properly poop. Is there a way to train a dragon to drink his water?
>turtles are usually amphibious or aquatic
>tortoises are entirely terrestrial
If this is how turtles/tortoises are generally classified, where do fully terrestrial turtles such as the eastern box fall into this equation? Do turtles/tortoises have other major distinctions to set each other apart?
He's a bit of a problem child, has had mouth rot on and off since I got him and lost a few toes early on in life due to shedding problems. That's not normal for a bts though, he just had a rough start but is getting better with an improved diet and regular vet visits. I feed 3-4x a week now that he's full grown. High quality canned cat/dog food (Merrick, Wellness, etc) as well as crickets and mealworms for protein; fruits and veggies (blueberries, bananas, kale, and spinach are his favorites) and the occasional raw or scrambled egg.
>Hate the place
>Full retard enclosures in the herp section
>Water dragons on fluorescent UV glow fake sand meant for those glowing fish levels of retarded
>"Green Pacman" on sale for half price "15 dollars"
>It's a fucking juvenile Pixie frog
>Go bitch to the lady desperately trying to avoid me because she knows I always come in there to bitch about this kind of shit
>"This is a pixie frog"
>"No it's a pacman"
>They look entirely different. Here's a care fucking pamphlet on pixies that I got from the god damned shelf right next to the fucking frog that has a picture of a pixie right on there. Cross reference that to a picture of a pac man THAT'S FUCKING POSTED RIGHT ABOVE THE TANK WHERE THE GODFORSAKEN PIXIE IS
>"looks da same to me".
>Have an autistic shit-fit in the isle right there
>Buy the frog so some kid doen't end up with a 2 pound monster frog when he just wanted a pacman.
What do I name it?
It's not pet smarts fault it's the pet care managers fault. My Friends girlfriend is the pet care manager for our PetSmart and she's in charge of receiving pets from breeders, taking pets to the vet, and overseeing pet care in the store. She has an entire petting zoo in her house because she loves animals but it's hard for stores to find somebody that knows the basics of that many animals because they only get applications in from teenage girls.
If you care so much then why don't you put in your application.
well you see this is why common names and random classifications are a problem.
Turtle can refer to all shelled reptiles, sea-turtles only, or fresh and salt water turltes depending on where you are
tortoise is pretty unanimous no matter where you go
and sometimes terrapin is used to specifically refer to turtles that are fresh water or land based.
If you really want to know how they're classified you have to look at families
an eastern box turtle is not a tortoise because its morphology and genetics places it within the family Emydidae, which contains most freshwater pond turtles you're probably familiar with
Yeah...she's wrong. Snakes get equally excited about a dead rat being waved around as they do a live rat.
And unfortunately for her, having pets means you're supposed to provide the best care. Exposing them to avoidable injury, parasites, and illnesses is not the best care. Just because they experience it in the wild doesn't mean it has a place in captivity.
Injury rate isn't actually low, it's incredibly high. Death rate may be low, but it's still a high risk. Many live feeders have scars, including my bp, even though they're small and very old scars.
So the local reptile convention is soon and I'm really considering getting a second leopard gecko from a breeder there. I've done my research and I know geckos are perfectly happy alone so, yeah, it's more so for myself since I'd love a certain morph. That being said I don't want to stress my gecko out and would prioritize that over housing them together if it won't work out.
I just need advice on whether I should go for it, how to introduce them after the quarantine period of I do, and any other tidbits /an/ might have on the subject.
Keep the new one in a seperate tank across the room from the other and observe it for a couple of days. I think you should let it settle in as well before you introduce them.
Make sure you're aware of the genders as well.
I don't know much about introducing them. Someone else can tell you about that.
You'll want a 30g tank for two female leos. I know all the caresheets say 20 is fine but in my experience things go a lot more smoothly when each gecko has ample space to be alone when they want to be.
After quarantine, put both in a bin together with some feeders and watch them for 15 minutes. If they stare at each other with heads low and tails doing the slow s-wave motion, separate them immediately. If they seem indifferent or more interested in the bugs, you should be okay. If they lick each other that's okay; that's non aggressive exploraratory behaviour. Do this introduction twice on consecutive days.
If you're good to go, thoroughly clean all decor in the tank to remove scent marks your first leo has left. Rearrange decor just slightly so it's a little bit new even for the old gecko.
You will need two cool side hides, two warm side, and two food dishes.
The male gecko passed away sometime last night due to his injury. I gave the female to another breeder since I don't particularly want to continue the project with a new male. I moved my anole over to their 30g tall, added some more leaf cover, and she seems pretty happy. No more geckos for me.
In order to make it so you can remove a UTH without damaging it you have to tape it on instead of using the adhesive on the UTH itself. Use aluminum foil tape for this. You can buy it at any hardware store. Do not use duct tape or electrical tape on your UTH as the adhesive will fail within a week or two from the heat.
you want about 1/4 gap between UTH and the table or stand you have your enclosure sitting on.
It is safe to use a UTH on a plastic bin, yes. Plastic melting point is a lot higher than the temps you will be running the UTH at.
Lol what a dumb ass. Snakes don't give a fuck. They are literal vacuum cleaners of the small animal world. They are not even as intelligent as a rat or even a mouse.
Maybe some species of snake out there might be a bit bright but almost all snakes are cold mindless killers.
People who anthropomorphise animals and talk about them as though they are bored humans are pants on head retarded. It's retarded to talk about most mammals like that let alone reptiles. Jesus people are dumb
I can't imagine that not causing problems. Just attach it to a small separate piece of glass. or just get heat tape because it's way better stuff.
>They are not even as intelligent as a rat or even a mouse.
Wow, big surprise they aren't as intelligent as one of the most intelligent small mammals.
Hey guys. I'm the autist from earlier with the rescue frog. When's the earliest I can visibly sex it? It's about a month old now and about twice the size than these pictures now. I read about the fading stripe on males and whatnot but if there's any other clues I'd like to know.
4 crested gecko
2 leopard gecko (blizz and super snow)
peruvian true red tail boa (bcc)
"black" white lipped python
Norm het pied ball
Lesser bee ball
Pastave bee ball
False water cobra
Albino cal king snake
European legless lizard
3 Columbian boas
3 Panther chameleons (32 eggs atm)
Black and white tegu
Pair of Savannah monitors
Pair of Burmese pythons
Bearded dragon pair
Skinny green iguana rescue.
And A LOT of birds.
Please talk me out of this /an/. I want to get a corn so bad, but there are some very rational reasons not to do it.
>overseas internship in a year
>room is 2 by 3 meters
>can only fit a 50*30 cm tank in my room
If I get a small corn, chances are I will have moved to a bigger place before it outgrows the tank. That will not be a huge problem.
On the other hand, a 6 month internship will make it very difficult to find someone to care for it. I might try to convince my little brother to do that, since he is also planning to get a corn now (which is why I'm doing the research together with him).
And then there's the third issue with my vegan roommate who probably will not appreciate having dozens of baby mice in our shared fridge.
From a rational point of view, it is just a very, very bad idea. I really should not have gone to a reptile convention yesterday. The corns they had lined up were absolutely gorgeous.
Must have, it looked like it was healing up okay, then he just passed on. Could have also been from the stress of all of it. Either way, he's dead.
Might get another anole or two soon, that huge enclosure is a bit empty with just 1 female in it.
Can pacman frogs digest bones? I know already that they cannot digest the hard parts (or at least the heads, anyway) of crickets, I've observed that with my own frog.
I ask because I fed my frog a pinky mouse a few days ago and she took a massive dump this morning. I wanted to know if I'll find a skull in there or if I'm just going to be wasting my time sifting through a stinky nasty frog poop looking for that mouse's bones
How do i dehumidify my Snake's enclosure?
I'm getting a ball python soon and the enclosure i prepared for it is at over 80% humidity.
I'm using peat moss as a medium and average humidity in my house is 50 to 60%
And this is with no water bowl in yet.
It's a 20 gal aquarium with a lid
You could either switch to aspen, or increase air flow. Or do both.
80% isn't too awfully high, you only really need to bring it down by 10-20%. I keep my ball python at a nearly constant 65-70% and he does well. No RIs, belly rot, or anything.
Keeping humidity at the higher end when possible is best, so I wouldn't go below 60% if you don't have to.
the moss is your primary problem. switch to aspen. moss is specifically used for herps that have high humidity requirements because of its moisture retention properties.
Does the lid have a screen? If not, you should buy a screen top and a set of security clips (all pet stores sell these).
Those two things alone will get your humidity down to the same as the room the tank is in, which at 50-60% is perfect for a BP.
You sir are really foolish for keeping venomous snakes. I know, shut up, fuck off, its just playing with death. Picture is of what I play with, dangerous too.
I fed my python for the first time today
I bought a live rat and bonked it in the head for him.
He took it surprisingly fast. Like, within seconds of seeing it
It was a medium rat. He's a full sized male. It was about as big around as him.
I'm looking for a decent sized reptile that would be willing to sit on my shoulder and watch shitty movies with me.
Looking into beardies, but is there anything else?
Would a blue tongue skink be cool with that?
WHAT? How is that education? What the flying fuck?
My tube dude finally seems comfy enough in his cage to sleep outside of a hide, although I don't think it'd be a temperature thing since I have one on both the hot and cool sides.
I mean, he's all curled up in a corner but still plainly visible. That's gotta be a good sign, right?
Species: H. suspectum
>we have to draw an animal for a project
>ask the teacher if I can draw a snake
>I will never forget what she said
>"Is a snake an animal? Or is it a reptile?"
>I went back to my desk without answering and started drawing a snake
People this stupid shouldn't teach.
Shouldn't be bad for one meal, but a medium is completely unnecessary for a ball python. I wouldn't even consider feeding a medium (regularly) to any male or female under 2,000 grams, and I've seen breeders feed small rats even to 3,000 gram balls and have successful breeders. They might increase food intake during breeding and follicle building, but that's about it.
>when your snake uses the humidity hide you set up for the first time
Upping food intake during breeding and follicle building is usually when I see mediums used, either that or multiple small rats.
Outside of breeding, mediums are unnecessary. Sorry if I didn't make that clear enough.
Mine is 9 years old, and he/she gets one small rat every 2 weeks, and holds at nearly 1400 grams when eating regularly. I'm sure she/he'd easily reach or exceed 1500 grams if I fed weekly instead of biweekly, even without increasing food size.
Hey you gotta do what you gotta do, just saying it's not necessary for them. I understand the struggle of a picky ball python. I own one.
Mine is super picky, but prey size isn't one of them luckily. He'll eat a medium rat, but if he eats a medium rat, he chooses to eat every 2 months. So I backed off to smalls and now he'll eat every 2 weeks and is maintaining a heavier body weight than he did on mediums. He's also incredibly stress prone and currently won't eat rats, ball pythons sure are such a great pet....
Out of curiousity, could I skip the quarantine period completely if I were to take my gecko to the vet and have an exam and fecal done? Besides giving the new girl time to relax alone for a few days, that is.
I think I'm going to call her Starburst, like the candy. That's what she reminds me of. I also still can't believe the pattern transition just after one shed.
On another note, I knew leos were super easy to tame, but this little lizard already seems calm in and around my hands. I say that, but yesterday I put her on the stand where my toad's enclosure is and she quickly managed to squeeze under the tank, which led to a series of events where I had to move everything in my room chasing her down for like 15 minutes. Geeze.
She also will only eat out of my hands, ESPECIALLY with mealworms. I can poke around dead crickets and get her to eat them, but even then she eats much more readily if I hand it to her. The mealworms she just completely ignores unless I handfeed them. Pretty much all I do is hold the food out in front of her face, and she'll start linking it and then bite. Is this a good or bad thing?
This pic with better lightning do her colors much more justice
a good way to handle leos with a little bit of freedom is to make a little fenced circle that you sit in with them (don't accidentally sit on your leo...). You can tape together a bunch of pieces of cardboard to do this.
for better feeding response on mealworms, put a large piece of carrot in the middle of the feeding dish for them to munch on. They are way more active that way and gecko will pay more attention to them.
by dead crickets i assume you mean canned crickets? try to avoid that. their nutritional value is zilch.
They actually come in a lot of colors. The one he posted is photoshopped to high hell though
It's uneducated idiots like you as to why I stopped posting in these threads. There are completely necessary reasons for private collections of venomous reptiles
>Live in Norway.
>All reptiles are classified as 'exotic animals' and are illegal to own.
It's a real shame. I used to love reptiles when I was a kid, but after hearing I could never have one I never really went into depth with researching them. I would love to care for some sort of lizard or turtle, but it's just out of the cards. Even if I did get one, the vets are not trained to care for reptiles either.
its a hairy bush viper.
subspecies of the bush viper.
Are all of your snakes captive bred? Or is the population still to low in captivity that you'd need wild individuals?
Also, are there morphs of venomous snakes? Do people just buy them as pets or are they used for zoos and stuff? Although if there are different morphs, I can't imagine that they'd be something a zoo would be looking for, since zoos usual try to depict what something would look like in the wild.
The mealworms will squirm about when I put them in, and she'll look directly at them, but then just walk away. It's weird. And by dead crickets, I meant that I have live ones that I kill and then she eats them right after.
The ones I get are small crickets, no bigger than the gap between her eyes at largest. I don't think they're pinheads per se, but they're very small
Which die in captivity really quickly
Depending on species most of them are captive bred now. And monocled Cobras come in a lot of different morphs. All the way to someone hatching a pied one. Most of the private collectors I know breed to shop to venom farms who use it for research