pic is a prehensile tailed skink
old thread >>2041696
>The Solomon Islands skink (Corucia zebrata), also known as prehensile-tailed skink, monkey-tailed skink, giant skink, zebra skink, and monkey skink, is an arboreal species of skink endemic to the Solomon Islands archipelago. It is the largest known extant species of skink.
I was at the pet store buying crickets, when I saw a hamster ball.
I am worried about my frog not getting enough exercise. He loves climbing all over walls. Could I put him in a small hamster ball? Has anyone tried sticking a frog in a hamster ball for excersize?
So I gave my beardie one of those pillows that watches come packaged with.
She sleeps on it like every night.
it depends I'd say
most of them probably not, but I've seen some that come when called or will jump on laps when prompted. Is this seeking affection? doubtful, its probably a trained response to getting fed, but its still really cool.
At the very least they can learn to trust and tolerate you
I'm concerned about my zoo med UTH temperatures. Leopard gecko hasn't been using his hot side cave as much lately so I took a reading and the floor is about 96-98.
I want to get a thermostat to help regulate the temperature so I have two questions:
>which would you recommend
>is the current temperature dangerous or can I afford to wait for a thermostat to be shipped to me
that's too hot. you can go to hardware store and get a rheostat (otherwise known as a lamp dimmer) and use that to turn down the heat output of your UTH temporarily until you can buy a thermostat. Pic related. They cost about $10.
For thermostat, the Hydrofarm thermostat sold of Amazon is the cheapest and works fine. It's technically intended for plant beds but lots of people use it for reptiles.
They, like most arboreal lizards, are just not ideal as pets unless you really know what you are doing. They are more prone to stress, need more exact humidity/open air requirements, etc. I hear a lot of them prefer hiding and generally being out of sight, which is too bad as chameleons are more "look, don't touch" than other, hardier lizards.
A lot of people get them as a first lizard and it's awful.
Pillow-dragon guy here, Mel in those pictures is attentive and perks up when she sees me getting roaches/picking up her salad bowl, but I've never deluded myself into thinking she's doglike.
It depends on if you can intrinsically appreciate those behaviors without requiring them to be directed at you specifically.
Cute is cute, though. Just knowing that she trusts me and depends on me for food is enough. Beardies are super chill and they'll sit with you, just gotta be ready to put them back under the light if they seem too cool or slow.
I have a crested gecko, about 2 years old, that recently had a bad shed. It got stuck on her tail and I had to intervene. I think we barely saved the tail and it's starting to get its shape back.
That was about a month ago. Now her tail looks like a blister is covering the top part. It's moist, plump, about 1cm long. It looks packed with puss.
Anyway, I couldn't find anything on Google. Is this a sign of healing from the time her tail dried out because of the shed choking it, or something else?
I really wish I had a picture. She is really stressed out right now from inspect her and I don't want to tempt her to drop her tail entirely by trying for a picture.
Decided to snap some pictures of my 2nd day at petsmart.
This is when I was cleaning out the leapord gecko enclosure and had to put them into a critter keeper, they all climbed inside of the moist hide esque thing that I put in with them since it didnt need to be cleaned.
Is unfertilized potting soil okay as a substrate for a Leopard gecko? It will be fed outside of its enclosure, so impaction is a non-issue. Also, what temperature does their hot side need to be? Isn't it like 80-90 degrees?
This is shortly after placing the bearded dragons back in the enclosure and mounting it back in place. I'm not an expert but from what I understand isnt this a form of bullying by trying to keep the others from getting uvb?
Yeah, when one gets on top of the other, he is getting all of the heat from the lamp, since they are basking lizards. It's dominance behavior and the one on the bottom isn't getting properly heated.
My first day one of them was on deaths door and the managers refused to let anyone put it into the quarantine/hospital room in the back of the store.
It barely reacted to being touched.moved and didnt open its eyes while being visibly starved.
It died the next day on the inside of the hide.
Store head manager also told some kid who came in to buy a new corn snake after his old one died(said it would eat and vomit it up and didnt move a whole lot) that it was fine to play with it as soon as he got home and sold him a UTH while telling him to put it just underneath the substrate. Half the staff there refuses to touch the reptiles at all it seems.
Would a UTH be able to transmit through a lining of tile?
And I have been reading on care sheets, nothing addresses if soil's okay, but I've heard specifically not to use the fertilized variety. Everything says that coconut fiber or that eco-earth bullshit is fine, so why wouldn't unfertilized potting soil? I use the exact same stuff with my amphibians and they do perfect with it.
And I wouldn't ask you goobers if I couldn't find a satisfactory answer from a more reputable source.
that was mostly about your question re; temperature. Anyway, yes a UTH will heat through tile just fine. The tile will also retain heat so you get a more consistent temperature gradient as opposed to hot spot directly above the heat source and cold everywhere else. I don't recommend loose substrate of any kind for leos even if you're feeding outside the tank. They do best on things like tile, paper towel, reptile carpet, those rough 'desert' mats that exo terra sells now. Excavator clay is okay but you can't use a UTH under it as it will cause the UTH to overheat- this is what the packaging for it says anyway.
Leo temperatures: warm side 90, cool side high 70's.
Anon was asking about a temporary solution until he could get a thermostat. Rheostats are a quick easy way to throttle back the heat output for a short time until a more permanent setup can be put in place.
How many reptiles do you guys own?
I currently own a Carpet Python and a Corn snake but i'm getting my 3rd snake at the start of february, a ball python, I already have the viv and hides for her i was just wondering something.
Is peat potting soil ok to put into the snake's vivarium?
I have a bunch here from repotting my Venus Fly traps
[spoiler]Also name new snake, itll be a she[/spoiler]
Muh tube dude King snake, getting his breakfast this morning.
How do you guys even deal with people coming over?
>and here is my snake tank!
>umm, anon. why is there so much trash lying in there?
>t-those are hides!
>couldn't you afford, like, bark or something of quality
>b-but those work fine!
>uh huh, yeah, I gotta go. (fucking creep)
or do you just have no social contacts to avoid these situations?
I've got 7 with 2 more arriving in the spring.
I think I know someone who uses peat moss, but I myself use EcoEarth. Kinda similar textures from my understanding. As long as there aren't chemicals in it (artificial fertilizer for example), it should be ok I'd imagine. If it has those little white balls in it, I'd also avoid it.
By having no one come over. Also, I have a snake room that I keep the door closed in the rare occasion someone might visit.
Having primarily nocturnal species results in a lot of "these are their tanks"
"Where are they"
"Sleeping in their hides or under the foliage"
"Can you wake them up and show them to me?"
I have 6 geckos. I think i have the time and energy for one more animal but I'm not sure what to get. For years i have considered a tortoise but i don't have the space to do that properly. Maybe a snake. I dunno.
I got two leopard geckos, a kingsnake and a giant daygecko. The leopards are turning 20-21 or so this year, and sadly the years have been starting to show for some time now. Their eyesight are not what it used to be =/
I want to get something more in a year or two though, ill might just wait until the leopards have passed away. That, or ill try to convince my girlfriend of getting something. Right now, im thinking of either a boa, blue tongued skink or a pacman frog.
It evens out in your favor buying online.
If buying 25 rats online with 25 dollars shipping you're adding 1 dollar per rat, but these rats are already like 3 dollars cheaper online than it is to buy them from your local pet store, so you're still saving like 2 bucks a rat, more if you purchAse more In a single shipment.
If you have a local reptile expo it will be cheaper to purchase there, plus no shipping
Snake acquired. His name is noodle
He's a 2013 male
I asked my local reptile dealer when I bought my snake and they said frozen medium rats are 2 dollars and jumbo mice are 1.50
I use a mixture of peat moss and organic potting soil in my naturalistic bp tanks and haven't had any problems with it. Eco earth is overpriced as shit.
And I have 13 ball pythons, 1 black rat snake, 1 copperhead (I live in a venomous friendly county), 5 leopard geckos, and one Savannah monitor.
Same. It's a good way to keep relatives from trying to stay with you though haha.
I second >>2048583 just buy in bulk and it makes it hurt less. Reptile expos are great places to buy as well but my favorite is finding people selling rodents on craigslist.
When you take into consideration that can last 8 months without being vacuum-packed, it's actually cheaper than buying from the pet store. But you pay all at once, so it can be a bit daunting.
Let's say I was feeding my eastern garter 2 pinkie mice per feeding every 7 days at $1.25 each (that's the cheapest they're sold for in my area). That's $130/year. Just for one garter snake. I can guarantee you can get a 50 pack, or even 2 50 packs for cheaper than that online.
Also, to contribute some photos, here's my sunglow boa with a DSLR I'm borrowing until I get my own next month.
I rescued this little leopard gecko about 2 or 3 days ago. The previous owner was a kid who bought him from petsmart and lost interest. He kept this guy in a shoebox for the month he had him, and he only fed him a couple of times within that month. Eventually the dad got tired of his shit and put him up on facebook, which is where I got him. Anyways, I have several adult leopards but I don't know much about care for juveniles so I may need some advice
Okay guys a few questions about this lil Leopard gecko I have now. It's actually crazy because I got a babby Leo from a friend of the family's kid, similar to >>2048720. Only he had it for like literally a day and it scared his two sisters so much that one was having nightmares (wtf I know), so they gave it to me knowing I'm the animal man or whatever.
Anyway I'm actually really glad because I've had a spare 15 gal sitting around, and it's like the cutest lizard ever. Blizzard morph from what I can tell, and it seems to be healthy.
However he always closes his eyes and noses around if there's any remotely bright light on, like the heat lamp. Should I use one of those colored heat bulbs instead, like a blue one? I'm going to have to replace the bulb anyway, it gets too hot. Does the light hurt his eyes because he's an albino or something?
And should I be using a UTH and a heat bulb? Or just one or the other? I had both on today and it was too intense.
Pic related is the star child
What is that in the bowl?
Juvi Leo care is basically the same, just feed daily instead of every other day and have a bottle cap of pure calcium in the tank at all times. Despite the shitty history your guy looks to be in decent condition aside from being underweight.
All leos are light sensitive to some degree. Best heating, and most energy efficient, is a UTH. Additional heat source is not necessary if your room temp is mid 70's. No lighting required. You will also need a thermostat.
Just got a part-time job at Petco, which I mean in actuality is probably a bad idea
but I'm suffering from the same "I can fix it" mentality that I'm sure most do.
The manager seems like she genuinely cares about the welfare of the animals so I'll have to see if I can inch forward some better care in the herps department
They likely have shorter lifespans in the wild than in captivity mind you
You also practically have to emulate their ideal living conditions, if a lizard didn't like a place in the great outdoors he'd move his ass somewhere else. Obviously he can't really do that as much in a very closed-off environment.
I need help, I just discovered this on my female leo:
Can't be a bad shed, she has a moist hide, and her last shed was fine.
I will provide 2 more pics.
Could it be my other leo(female) attacking her? Never heard/seen attacks however...
what could this come from?
also, 90% is tile, the sand is just to fill the little corner, as I could not fit a tile in there.
Whats a good first lizard or amphibian? I want something cool to look at and that i can hold sometimes. Also, i go away on the weekends (friday till monday) so it needs to be something that can last that long with very little care without getting ill or dying. I could have my mom feed it but the more in depth care would too hard for her.
Another pic of this cutie. I tried feeding him a couple tiny crickets, he showed absolutely 0 interest in them.
This is usual, right? Just not being hungry because of stress? I'm pretty sure that the kid got him the same day they shipped in, I frequent the store he got it at. Surely the stress of shipping and switching environments 3 times in a few days has made him not hungry, correct?
Yeah, don't worry.
My first leo did not eat for a week when I first got her, her cagemate ate 5 crickets the same day I put her in her new home. It really depends on the gecko.
Maybe you can try offering one or 2 mealworms if you get really concerned.
Just leave her alone the first days, only spotclean the cage (if you have to) and change the water.
I would go either snake or leopard gecko. Amphibians need to be misted daily. Leos eat every second day. With a snake you just need to change water bowl every three days (or when soiled) and feed once a week to two weeks depending on species.
My garg currently holds the record for longesr hunger strike after coming home. 14 days. She's a weirdo anyway though. In a variety of ways. All the rest of my geckos ate within 5 days.
Thanks guys. I have a heat mat under one end of the tank and got rid of the light, I might just get a dim light or a night bulb just for aesthetic purposes. I'm pretty proud of the enclosure I made, especially under the last-minute circumstances. I can post pics in a bit if anybody would care to see and/or critique it.
I got a little temperature-reading laser pointer device and used it on the area where the heat mat was. It read at like 105 degrees F, but I touched the area and it only felt pleasantly warm, not hot. What's going on there? It's not an immediate issue because so far the geck's been loving the humid hide I've made.
And where can I get some sort of dimmer-style thermostat? You know, for the heat mat? The only thing they had at the pet store (and my dumb ass accidentally bought it) was a day/night timer for an outlet.
This basking temp shit is crazy. The only other reptiles I have are a painted turtle and a crestie. The turtle's shit was easy, and cresties don't bask, so this stuff is new to me. Trying my best to figure it out
This dumb noodle keeps using the hygrometer as a climbing accessory and kocking it off into the water dish. The adhesive got wet and won't stick now. Might get a digital one and more vines to play on.
Should use a spray bottle with warm water to spray her skin with? Or rather straight up fill a plastic box with warm water and put(force) her in it?
Also, it does not really seem like this one is getting bullied, like I said, I've never seen them attack each other. This afternoon, they both were in 1 hide, not really caring about each other.
COULD those spots in my pictures be bite marks? Local shop said no, they told me bite marks would rather be "mouth-shaped".
At least, she had a very strong appetite today, she devoured several crickets + a few worms.
No, don't have a light at all. They are nocturnal and having a light will just scare them into hiding.
The heatmat is way too hot. It should be 90-95F. You're warm blooded so anythign close to your body temp will feel mildy warm while you can withstand placeing your hand on something up to 130F this is burning hot for a reptile. Your 105F temps right now can cause burns.
Buy a reptile Thermostat. It will let you set a max temp (I reccomend 95F) and will turn it on or off depending on the current temp reading. Plus you'll be able to see the temps at all times.
This is correct. 105 is only slightly above human body temperature and will only feel warm-ish to the touch. That is a full 10 degrees above the maximum temp a leopard gecko should ever be exposed to (95).
Buy the Hydrofarm thermostat from amazon, put the probe in the warm side hide and set the temp to 90. I might as well start linking this damned thing in the OP. It's all of 30 bucks and makes everything much safer.
>you can withstand placeing your hand on something up to 130F
Uh...what? Even just 110F feels scalding hot. If that was the case I'd be able comfortably unscrew a hot light bulb instead of getting mild burns.
Not even a night-time bulb? What about having a day-night cycle?
Okay I have it up on Amazon but before I buy this thing, how the fuck does it work? Like how does it connect to the heat mat? Does it need plugged in? Or does it connect to the mat and regulate the amount of power going into it or something?
You're confusing fahrenheit and celsius. If 110F was scalding hot you would not be able to function in 110F weather; which is something people do commonly, granted begrudgingly and sweaty, in the warmer parts of the world every summer.
Regardless, how it feels to you is irrelevant. 95F max temp for leos in captivity is an established fact based on decades of care in thousands of facilities.
Also, seeing as how this thing is made for heating sprouts or something along those lines, do you think it'd be available at a farm supply store? I have two near me that are fairly all-intensive, and I need to go out to return some of these bulbs and that damn day-night regulator I bought anyway.
Heat mat plugs in to thermostat which plugs in to wall. Thermostat has a temperature probe you place in the area you wish to regulate (warm side hide). You set desired temperature on thermostat. When temperature hits your set number, it cuts power to the heat mat. When temperature reading is two degrees below your setting, it restores heat mat power.
Okay thank you, that makes sense. I was looking at the images for it and couldn't figure it out. What do you think about >>2049069 ?
Okay so here's the deal: the part of my room where the tank is is literally the only place in the room that doesn't get much light at all. Like it's VERY dim, and I can't move it because I have 6 other animal enclosures in here that are set up on an elaborate support system of plugs and wires that has taken months to perfect.
Also I already bought a lamp for it. The lamp has a built in dimmer and I have it on an already-low light 15W bulb at about 1/2 its full light. I mean like I can stare directly at it without hurting my eyes at all
It's also worth noting that it's no longer that well lit because of what I mentioned here >>2049074
The large hide is also the humid hide, there's moist sphagnum moss in there. The substrate on that side is unfertilized dirt from Lowes, but most of it is covered by rocks or the moss in the humid hide
Adult beardies eat a combination of veg and insects every other day. They are a bit more work than snakes/arid climate geckos. Also they require a larger tank and uvb lighting. They are beginner suitable but i would hesitate a bit given your time constraints.
Corn snake, western hognose, rosy boa, the rest of the colubrids (kings, milks, rats, gophers etc). All of those are -debatably- easier than ball pythons, which are the most popular snake in the pet trade.
>you can withstand placeing your hand on something up to 130F this is burning hot for a reptile
Depends on the reptile. Plenty of species will happily bask at this, or even hotter. My monitor basking spots are like 135.
Anyone have or had a Rosy Boa? Does it hide all the time like sand boas? Obviously snakes love to hide, but my sand boa hides 24/7. He used to stick his head out of the aspen but now just stays under.
Okay so I went to the store and it turns out they have the actual heat mats of that brand, but not the thermostat itself. I suppose they got confused when I called.
And so, 6 stores and a lot of wasted gas later, nobody has any kind of fucking thermostat. They say it's "seasonal", which I partially say is bullshit in it's own right because you'd think the time that you'd need a thermostat most would be in the winter, which is now where I live.
I even asked for a lamp dimmer at most of these places and none of them had a remotely usable one. I figured I could just use one of those until I ordered the thermostat online, but I guess that's not happening, either. This is exhausting.
Why's that? I thought the humid hide was supposed to be on the cool side?
Not particularly interested in snakes at the moment, but if I do get one, I want it to be either a Rosy boa or a Hognose
yeah the adhesive that comes on those things isn't always great. i switched over to sticking them on with aluminum tape instead, in part because you can change them out to different tanks without damaging them that way, and also partly because aluminum tape sticks forever.
corn snake acquired.
Dunno if it's male or female, and I have no idea what I'm gonna name it, but it's cute as fuck.
There's a lip around the inside of the tank's lid that it's crawling around in and hanging form, because it's still small enough to fit in there, dunno what it hopes to accomplish but it's not getting out so it can have its fun
>enter room today
>pacman frog left a massive froggo dump in his water bowl
>take it out, dump contents in toilet
>turd dissolves, still some hard parts of crickets left
>a bunch of cricket heads float to the top
>there's 14 cricket heads floating
Niggas that 4-5 feeding's worth of crickets, and I feed him every other day. Is this a normal pacman frog defecation schedule? Or is my dude constipated? The temperatures are fine, as is humidity
Is it okay to leave calcium with d3 in a dish for a leopard gecko? I don't usually dust his food but I do gut load the mealworms or dubia with vitamin and calcium feed as well as veggies. He's really good about eating calcium on a daily basis from the dish so I was happy until I read they can overdose on D3. Should I be worried?
What kind of humidity is appropriate for a corn snake?
every resource I can find just is pretty nonspecific, but my tank's around 18-20% right now.
I've got a t-shirt on top of the lid over the cool side to try and keep some in (and hold the temp a bit higher, it's a bit cooler than I'm happy with), but tomorrow I'm gonna do what I can to fix the humidity/temp issues.
No, I'm talking about Fahrenheit. 110F water is scalding hot and I can't put my hand under the water for more than a second, regular incandescent bulbs average around 120-130F, and I get very minor burns trying to touch them bare-handed. I have to have a lot of bunched up clothe to touch the bulbs because I can't touch it long enough to turn it.
I couldn't function in 110F, but that's because I don't live on the equator and I'm not used to it. Anything over 90F and I overheat easily.
I'm not really debating 110F being enough to kill, but I am saying it still feels really hot, but I'm mainly contesting against being able to touch a 130F surface.
I just don't understand people who can do that, I could barely even touch a surface that hot. I'm not sure how hot they get, but I work at a fast food restaurant and I can't even pick up the rods under the heat shoot without a huge wad of paper towels. I'd guess they're about that hot or hotter, though.
If it's still young it is okay to have calcium with D3 in the tank. You should be dusting those feeder insects as well. D3 overdose is something more common in adults over a lengthy period of time. Ideally you want to dust the insects with calcium +d3 and have a little bit of regular pure calcium in the tank for gecko to lick as needed. But there's no immediate rush to change to this right away.
Low humidity is good for corns. To assist shedding you can put a moist hide in. No need to boost ambient humidity. Covering a portion of the screen top to boost your cool side temperature slightly is a good idea though. Putting a piece of aluminum foil over that part of the screen top taped down with duct tape works well.
Sup guys, just got a newt. It was the only I could find in any pets stores within 25 miles. My question is, what kind of animals would I be able to keep with him? I wanted to get him some friends, but like I said, he was the only newt around. I'm thinking frogs maybe? I just don't want to have a 5.5 gal tank with one lonely two-inch newt.
His habitat. Where any new amphibians I buy will be living. No filter, heater, or anything special like that, but I'd be willing to buy one if they require it.
Nope, just the newt. What kind is it? Depending on the species, you may be able to throw another newt or two of the same kind in there, but other than that, no other species, especially frogs. They'd eat him and inter-species cohabitation usually isn't reccomended with herps.
And look up a care sheet for its species. I don't know about heat mats, but definitely get a filter unless you want to be doing water changes every other day.
Red-spotted eft. And yeah, I'm just going to be changing his water every week or so until I've got a of extra money to throw towards a filter. I've been extensively researching how to care for him, and I think I got it down for the most part. The one thing that I couldn't find was if I could throw something else in there with him, (other than some fish). Really trying to find him a little buddy or two, but yeah, for some reason I can't find any other newts. There's one PetSmart all the way across town I still haven't tried, so I may have some luck.
It really pisses me off how bad petsmarts and petco's are when it comes to feeding. They always put in way too much crickets and that causes a lot of bites and gnarly infections since they never eat them all.
Yeah, definitely save up for a filter, it will save you a lot of work. And I'd think that most care sheet may not list anything about tank mates because, like I said, it's usually just common practice to only keep one species per enclosure.
Why did you want a newt so bad?
yeah it's clipped shut, little guy's given up on getting out and just likes to cruise around the top like that.
Alright, cool, guess I just need to get a stronger bulb then, hot side's hovering just below 80 - should be fine for one night but I still wanna correct it as soon as I can
Honestly, we went to the store to get a fish for my girlfriend, saw this little guy and thought he was fucking adorable so we got him instead. They it was rare for them to get stuff like this, so they weren't able to to give too much info on maintaining them. I had to Google the rest.
But now that I have him, I want a couple more. The only problem is, like I said, it's rare for this pet stores in this area to get newts at all, let alone an Eastern newt, seeing as I live on the other side of the country from where they typically live. That's kinda what put me in the position of asking whether or not I could add frogs or something. It may be a while before I can find some mates for him.
It's usually not too good to impulse buy a pet, ideally you should do your research before buying any animal. If you'd have thought this through a little more, then maybe in time you could have purchased a pet more suitable for friends.
Not to be mean. Just giving you some pointers
Oh, also, here's something I'm wondering...
He's currently in the eft stage. So he should be spending the majority, if not all of his time on land, correct? Here's the thing, he fucking loves the water. Like, he submerges himself completely 90% of the time.
I mean, if he's doing it because he just genuinely enjoys being in water, then no big deal. But could there be something driving him into the water? Something like wrong temp? Or the air not being humid enough?
No, I understand. And I wouldn't have thrown another animal in without doing research. I will admit I did kinda just jump into it without doing any research prior other than talking to the clueless employees.
Okay so I keep hearing this bullshit about how superworms can eat their way out of an animal's stomach. I've heard this since I was a kid, so today I still crush the heads of superworms before feeding.
Is this shit even true? I'm like 90% swayed that it's just and old wives tale, but that 10% of me who believes the people that say their friend's cousin's stepson had it happen to them still urges me to practice caution.
Nah, old wive's tale. They bite, which is why you put them in a smooth sided dish they can't escape, but once eaten, even if still alive when they hit the stomach, they cannot harm your lizard.
So I know bearded dragons can have different personality quirks, and I can't figure out what's wrong with mine.
When he's in his tank and sitting on his basking spot, after a while he develops the stress marks on his stomach and turns darkish, even though the temp is at 100 give or take, and humidity is at 30.
But, when I take all his decorations out of the tank, including his basking spot, he turns to his regular color and there isn't a hint of black on his underside. I can leave him in his decoration-less tank for an hour with no change to his stress state.
Does my bearded dragon just straight up dislike decorations? Or is this something deeper? He's still a juvenile by the way, but I'd had him for at least three months now, and I'm tired of seeing him turn black on his basking spot even though it doesn't make sense for him to.
A couple months ago my bearded dragon stopped eating it's greens. I have no idea why. He still acts the same same amount of energy and everything. All it eats are superworms and other insects but I mostly feed it supers right now. Its about 8-10 months old right now.
Will it start eating it's greens again or is something wrong with it? What should I do?
Yep. You shouldn't mess with it too much but a bit of mixing and turning on occasion is good. This is for bio active substrate that doesn't have rooted plants, mind you. If there are plants it's better to leave the root system alone.
put your insects as the bottom layer underneath the veg, all in the same bowl. that way beardie has to nose through the veg to get to the yummy insects and invariably winds up eating some of it in the process.
I got this little fuck to eat today! She ate 4 small crickets. I was quite happy with myself.
Also I'm going to just call it a her for now, since it's pink.
Any name ideas? I already have a crestie name Junior Mint
Like holy shit guys could this gecko get any cuter
She comes out usually around 7-8 and starts exploring her home after a nap on the warm end. Such a sweet little creature
Now we're soaking to remove stuck shed from a toe and tail tip.
She doesn't seem to mind it as much as I'd thought she would.
Okay so I got the dead skin off for the most part (all of it's off the tail tip, it's hard to tell with the toe but I got at least some of it.
But now, the tail especially, seem very irritated from me finagling with it. The shed had already begun to shrink-wrap the body parts, so it was very hard to get off. I had to use some tape to get the end part of the tailskin off.
Is this okay that its red? Is it just irritated from the removal procedure? No skin is broken, just the tail tip and the one toe are reddened.
My little dude's current tank. Wrapped a towel around three sides for insulation and to give him a bit more privacy, taped a sheet of tinfoil over the lid on the cool side ot help retain heat, got one of those nice two-bulb lamps with a day and night bulb, gave him an actual hide instead of just a hollow half-log.
My house is cold as fuck so my biggest concern right now is getting his temp up to a good place, and it seems to be working. Within minutes of wrapping his tank and heating it up a little he crawled out and is exploring around it again so I think he's doing alright.
Still no idea what to name him though
okay now I have an issue
humidity has dropped to like 5%
Everything I see online says corns aren't too picky about humidity but 5% seems pretty damn low, and he burrowed into the substrate and is just hanging out there with his head poking out, I only noticed shortly after how low the humidity was.
What can I do to raise humidity and keep it stable?
yesterday it was about 78 degrees and I was managing about 20% humidity, went from a 50-watt bulb to a 60-watt, temps are up to about 80-85 with about 5% humidity.
I'm in the midwest, it gets pretty damn dry in the winter here.
I'm thinking of keeping a humidifier in my room to see if that helps, and would I need anything special to mist the tank?
I try to give my frog free range of the house when it's warm enough. Tonight, he hopped over and found the cricket pen. It's a holiday popcorn tin with the lid cracked open. He then crawled inside and massacred four crickets. I got him out, rinsed him off and put him back in his terrarium.
Could I let him feed like this? Put the cricket pen in different spots, let him out and search for them? Is there any harm in that?
Yo homeslice how did you ever get the good idea to let your frog just fuck around on its own? I can tell you for a fact that things are gonna go fast for that thing real fast if you just let it out unsupervised all the time.
Whoa, stop using tape! After soak, gently roll a moist over the affected areas. Roll. Not rub.
If stuck shed does not come off, dab a small amount of mineral oil on it to keep it from constricting. You may not be able to remove it completely but it will come off easily with the next shed on its own.
Redness is irritation. Just leave it alone.
I did that to get all but this one last stubborn piece on the tail off, so I used tape and that took care of it. I was very careful and didn't pull the tail, just held it and pressed the sticky side to it. Also I have no sort of mineral oil on hand, sorry. I heard the same thing in a help sheet for the matter.
I just checked her again, the toe is pretty much back to normal and the tip of the tail has gotten much better.
did you see this guy
>Not knowing Sy Snootles
it's your Leo, man. Name it what you want.
what i listed was for all the stuff
a normal bearded dragon will cost you like 50 bucks
the fancier things like leatherback or hypo or red or orange or whatever will cost considerably more
As much as it appeals to remove mistreated herps from pet stores, doing so does not help the problem. If you buy, pet just brings in more. Only way to protest is to stop buying herps from pet stores. And also call animal control of the conditions are really dismal. Animal control seized over 300 animals from a particularly shitty store in my city just last month. Criminal charges against store are pending.
The worst part is that I know you're right.
I'm just thankful that my local pet shop is a mom-and-pop deal that actually takes care of their fish and herps.
As an aside, word on the grapevine is that they're getting some friggin Axolotls come spring! So fucking hype.
Uh, hey guys, why is my newt blowing bubbles like this? Kind of cute, kind of alarming.
Also, still need to know this,
If anything that just shows that the water needs changed or you need a filter. But then again, I don't know too much about keeping newts. And it doesn't look like it's still an eft, it looks like an adult to me, which is why it'd be in the water all the time.
Get a filter dude.
Anyone know about peppermint and tortoises or used Lucky Reptile Testudo Mix?
I used used to mix in Pre Alpin Testudo mixes into my Hermann's food but recently ran out, my spouse noticed that a site we get stuff for our lizard does something called "Lucky Reptile Testudo Mix" so picked up a box of that since it seemed similar to the Pre Alpin stuff and we were getting stuff for the lizard from there. But I noticed has peppermint in and that the tortoisetable website says not to give peppermint.
So next week I'm looking to made a humidity hide for my BP with glade ware and some sphagnum moss.
My questions are:
How much miss do I need to line the bottom of the container with and how often to I need to redampen/replace it?
Put a layer about an inch thick. Moisten every 4 days or so. Moss can be rinsed and reused. So, wash container and rinse out moss every two weeks. Clean more often if you see any mold forming.
They always run hot. They should never be used without a thermostat. A rheostat is a good temporary solution, but unless your room temperature is constant day and night throughout the year, they're not a good long term solution.
mist the tank, then get a damp towel, and kind of place it over the top pf the tank (with some space for airholes of course) and this should help keep the humidity in. My house is super cold and dry as well, and I do this for my Ball Python. Hope i helped.
it seems like the employees there constantly spout bullshit and misinformation to make sales. Last timw i was there, the girl at the store said that i need to buy a wallpaper so that my ball python doesn't see it's reflection, attack it, and get a nose injury. haha. Many more examples i could give of stupoid shit the employees there say.
You have an adult young ones are red with rough skin
this is for a corn snake, right? as long as it has a large water bowl and a moist hide it will be quite alright. be careful about misting when using aspen as a substrate. aspen molds.
Got another update on GG, AKA punished snake.
He is still doing really well. I know he hasn't eaten in at least two months but he managed to lay a fat turd in his enclosure today. I felt OK using the wax paper as a liner because he hadn't eaten in so long, I didn't expect him to take a shit all over the place.
This is how it looked.
I also posted this in the wrong thread cause I'm retarded.
Seeing as how this was really nasty smelling, and that he might do it again, I decided to give him a bath.
Got some water at the right temperature, turned it on a low flow, and used some very gentle hippie style hand soap my wife buys and cleaned him. He didn't seem too excited about this, and tried wrapping himself around the faucet neck while I was doing it.
Here he is in the feeding tub after his shower. He's trying to escape. As you can see, the primary wound on his body is much smaller. Some of the secondary slicing that was around the main knife wound is completely healed, although scale-less.
I fully sterilized his box, and kept him in this tub while I worked on it.
Here is a closer shot of his main wound, I'm really happy with how it's turning out. I expect that after his next shed it will be in a completely healed/closed state, but maybe won't have any scales underneath until the shed after that.
Last one for today, he's back in his stealth box, and has a grocery bag liner instead of wax paper, fresh water, and a clean hide.
I coated his wounds with more ointment, and he didn't even protest. No jerking/twitching around from pain!
He's doing so well, I'm going to try feeding him tomorrow and see what happens. If he doesn't go for it I'll give the feeder to my other BP...
So im gettin a pueblan soon. Went to pet store and asked what the proper heating would be
>dont worry its a smaller pet store bot petco
They gave me a lamp heater thay sits ontop of the tank
I know this snake burrows alot so i got is some forest bark substrate
So my question
Should i get a uth?
Is three hides okay i already know you need two one in each side but what sbout one in the middle will it harm the snake in any way?
How would i use a uth
And what uth should i get if i need one
Hey /an/, quick question about my 2 leo females:
I'm not sure if one's getting bullied or not.
Thing is, the one I had for nearly a year longer stopped eating when I introduced the new one. However, she ate a few crickets 4 days ago along with a few wax worms as a treat. Hasn't been eating since, but she's turning white atm, and I know that she a) isn't much of a big eater anyways, and b) sometimes went off food when shedding.
I have the impression that my old one is a bit afraid of the new one, despite the new one being a little younger. When the new one licks the old one, she becomes scared and runs away (NOTE: licks, not BITES, licks as in "gecko exploring stuff"). I put both on my kitchen table yesterday to see if I missed some fights over night, but they minded their own business, not attacking each other as well as not going near each other. I put the new one a bit closer to the old one then (I really wanted to make sure that they don't fight), and the old one simply ran a few inches away again, despite the new one doing nothing at all.
I don't see any scars/wounds/bitemarks either, they extremely rarely stay in the same hide (I guess that's normal), but in the evenings, both come out.
Is this normal leo behavior, or should I separate them (can't afford second tank, I'd give her back to the breeder...)? I'm a little worried by the old one not eating much, her tail is still really fat, but it might have become a little smaller over the last 2 weeks ( but I could be mistaken here)....
Any experiences with housing 2 females? There was some tail wiggling involved on the first meeting, but only by my OLD one, did not see any wiggling yesterday on my table however.
That sounds okay, anon. Female geckos kept in the same tank develop a social hierarchy to keep the peace. Sounds like your new gecko has taken lead role. This is normal. As i recall, your tank is quite large, right? That's good. Plenty of personal space for each of them.
As for older gecko's eating, do keep in mind that this is winter and adult geckos often eat significantly less from November to mid-March or so. You can feed her in a separate bin if you're really worried but nothing you've said here sounds problematic to me.
Also, if you wish to monitor their weight more closely, recommend you get yourself a digital kitchen scale that measures in 0.1 gram increments. They're about 20 bucks online. Work very well for weighing geckers.
Question. My corn snake is chill as fuck, sans being a scared, naturally, all the time and hiding. But very chill when handled, as are most corns.
Anyways, used to feed him in a separate enclosure because I'm told you are supposed to (not to confuse your hand for food and what not). But I've been feeding him in his vivarium, doesn't really seem to affect it and is still responsive normally to being handled days later.
Should I stop or is it ok to keep doing this? U can yell at me if u want
>pic is not my snake
Name your new snake "trousers".
Thanks for the replies!
Yes, I've got a fairly big tank (1m x0.5m x0.5m).
They now have plenty of hides, I added a few after getting the new gecko, there are 2 warm, 1 warm+moist(I may add a second moist, but it will get cramped a bit, I'll see how it works out this way), 1 warm "hide" (some stones and flat bricks, both seem to love it), 1 colder tree root/branch and one one the very far end of the cold side.
Both are in the moist hide together right now.
I really like the new one, she's rather active and often shows up outside of the hides.
I'll keep offering food to my old one, especially the day(s) after the shed.
My only fear is that my older one is getting bullied without me knowing and therefore going off food.
I'll get a digital scale just to be sure, but the tail does not look alarming in any way. It COULD be a little thinner than a while ago, but I could be mistaken.
I'll post a picture + update after the shed, I don't want to disturb them right now
I found a cocoon in my yard and hatched it into a moth. Should I let it go or feed it to my axolotl?
Well, the container was a bit bigger than I anticipated, but at least she'll be able to fit. How bad did I do?
Thanks! I'm just glad he is recovering. Hopefully he eats.
It's a long story.
His original owner is a girl from work. She got him just after moving into a new apartment with her boyfriend. He had a serious drug and mental illness problem.
This guy took a knife to the snake. If you look at the photos you can see he has lots of older cuts which look like white streaks through his pattern. Those were not as deep, and were black stripes and ripped scales when I first got him, relatively minor compared to the larger gash.
There is also an oblong burn mark that was on him when I got him. It couldn't have come from his uth, it was almost on his back, and the size looks exactly like a lighter burn. Given the proclivity of the sicko who did this, its all I can think of to explain it.
I also learned recently that a live feeder mouse was left in the cage with the snake and began chewing on the primary cut wound. That explains the large circular opening on the tail side of the cut.
This girl never took him to a vet, and seems to have ignored all the advice I tried to give her on car before and after he was attacked with a knife.
I practically begged her to take him to a vet, she never did. His former fish aquarium of a home still had lime scale all over it, and was kept next to a drafty fireplace in winter. One of the wood hides that came with his setup was covered in green mold.
I have always treated animals with a sympathetic attitude in these situations. I'm glad he has recovered as much as he has.
Fuck anon thats some nightmareish shit.
I'm honestly surprised the poor thing is still alive and that it allows you to handle him. You're doing marvelous work though keep doing it.
On a side note some people just need to be explicitly barred from owning animals and the two people you mentioned seem to fall into the category.
He took a meal!
I'm so happy! I really think he's going to pull through.