Discuss anything aquarium related here, including inhabitants, decor and issues.
Google is your friend.
Feel free to ask questions but know that there are a lot of resources out there that could answer your question a lot faster and accurately than /an/.
Make sure to include these things in your post before asking because we can't help you if we don't have the full picture:
-any and all inhabitants + how long you've had them
>How to cycle your tank: http://pastebin.com/x4WnB0Ah
>General aquarium care sheets - http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/
>Livestock and plants for sale - http://www.liveaquaria.com/
>FUCKING GOOGLE - http://www.google.com
Continued from last thread.
Is RO water a meme?
Tap water is 150-200 TDS.
RO is 0 TDS
But 0 TDS is bad for fish so most people add a remineraliser that takes it back up to 200TDS
>Taking the dissolved solids out to put them back in again.
Hence I used the word may.
You don't want ferts in your reef tank.
You don't want a bunch of minerals in a soft/acidic biotope.
I'd don't know of anything else common that recommends RO.
Hello fellow mongloids!
I have a cycled 30 gallon tank with sand and few low light plants. I want to do somewhat of a biotope. With 3 to 4 different types of fish. What part of the world do you recommend that would be easy to get the fish? I enjoy catfish. Then I'm getting a 55 gallon here soon with a nice canister filter. I would like some larger fish. A few 6-8 inch fish then some schooling fish that won't be eaten by the larger fish and maybe a school of bottom feeders. Things that are easy to keep and aren't to picky on food. any suggestions? How would you stock and plant your tank so I can take some ideas? Thank you.
>not running tap water thru brita filters
>not storing it in 10 gallon buckets with airstones bubbling and oxygenating the water
>not having it ready to go at all times for water changes
A lot of you aren't go to make it
You could get cories, a pleco, cardinal tetras and angelfish and make an Amazon River biotope. They'll get along well. Then make it a blackwater tank and throw in long, spindly driftwood pointing upward to mimic the roots angelfish live along. Black gravel substrate.
They break surface tension when they pop and that increases gas exchange. But you get the same effect by just having your filter outlet a bit over the surface to create a "waterfall", or with big bubbles.
You don't want water sitting stagnate, air stones keep the water moving when you store it and in your tank and yeah the meme is also true.
I have water quality you can only dream of kid.
How bad would it be to have a tank with only bottom feeders? I run a sort of a unwanted fish tank. My stunted goldfish had finally kicked the bucket and now I just have 2 pictus catfish. However I'm also taking my mother's horsefaced loach because I can't stand seeing a live fish being flushed. But, if possible, I wanted to also get 1 or 2 other horse loaches but I think I'm already hitting my limit for a 30g tank
I run a pair of foam filters in my tank, one in each back corner.
The angels I have in there don't seem to care about current.
Retail in general is ass.
your rent alone is going to be more than 10,000 customers will pay.
your only hope for profit is to buy the property you're selling from and then write off enough expenses to get it tax free in 30 years and then profit by selling it.
retail is essentially a real estate position.
if you don't understand this innately you'll never make it in business. It's a method of doing what you want while a building pays for itself. That's all.
well if you have the credit to buy a business property, and the down payment, and enough income to make the loan payments, you're in business.
the bank wants to see that you can afford this out of pocket. If that's the case you can do whatever you like with your business, including making an aquarium store that loses $150k a year. Or maybe breaks even. Or even turns a small profit. Anything is possible if you've the guts to try.
That could be possible. Just make replica of underwater mines and put food on them. Then when you release them they'll see one and think there is food on it and will boop and go boom.
Weird question but anyone have any idea what species of fish walmart carries that looks like a sort of eel or snake I saw some recently and while interested I didn't really want to buy from walmart since they'd probably have some kind of disease with how bad they treat their fish.
>day 30 and my tank is still not cycled
Floating around .25 ppm in ammonia. Was .50 today and I have no idea why..
Nitrite seems to be barely going down. Floating at around 3 ppm maybe. Is this normal?
My current tank consists of:
>Pseudotropheus sp. "Acei" (Msuli) - Just introduced a few days ago.
They're all relatively peaceful fish with the exception of the cobalt blues, yet they haven't caused any deaths in the tank.
Looking to add another species of Mbuna to my tank. The problem is I'm looking for something with a bit of colour variation to what I already have, and I still want them to be relatively peaceful. Many years ago I had 4 Afras (Cynotilapia afra Cobue) which were aesthetically awesome. But they ended up killing each other eventually.
I would say yes, but I don't really know why you're trying to fertilize in a caudate tank, especially since at the temperatures most caudates need plants wont grow that fast anyway.
Bought two bigger Tiger/Zebra Nerites from Petco, and holy shit they're already going to town on the diatoms much better than my Bumblebee Horned Nerites
I feel really bad for the snails in Petco tanks though, they just get tossed in and nobody bothers to turn them right side up so 2 out of 3 snails in the tank are dying or dead...
So I have fish that are supposed to be in RO water that is slightly acidic and soft but I put them in with tap water of unknown hardness. They're fine now but that probably wont last.
Is it ok for me to get some RO water and some discus remineraliser and just steadily replace the water in the tank with weekly 20% water changes? They're sensitive to big changes.
Ok so I just looked up some info on this. Apparently the tap water in my country is good enough for fish keeping by laws that control it's purity so I don't need RO water.
But that doesn't mean the PH and Hardness will be right. So can I just add reminerliser to tap water?
I used to buy Flying Foxes, and just sell them back for a few dollars and buy a small one when it outgrew my 130 liter. Loved them, it's a shame they grow so big.
Doing it for profit though? I dunno. I don't imagine the demand for large plecos is.. well, large. Maybe if you mean just trading it back in for the money for a new one?
So I just bought an API hardness test kit but it really makes no sense.
It says to count how many drops of each solution you add to water so it changes colour. So it took 6 drops of GH solution and 4 drops of KH solution.
But when refering to the results table it seems to combine GH and KH into one result and implies that it should have taken 4 drops or 6 drops to change both not two separate results.
Ok watched a video on youtube I got it now.
So my tap water is
dKh = 4
Dh = 5
That seems quite good for tap water doesn't it? Sounds like RO water isn't really necessary for me.
I'm trying to keep Crystal red shrimp so I guess the only think I need to do is try and bring that DKh down to 0. I have an indian almond leaf that should lower the PH to 6.5 like they want.
Just went to my LFS and had a serious look at some of the marine stuff.
God fucking damn I thought that the expense of Marine came from the equipment but Jesus Christ some of the corals and livestock.
£14 for a shrimp?
£50 for a bit of coral?
Why so expensive?
>doing water change
>vacuum up something weird
>wtf, a worm
What do? Logic says leave him for gas exchange and lulz. Is there any reason to not throw this worm in the snow?
Oh, alright then. My LFS sells a bunch of them in their saltwater part, and lots of saltwater tanks I see have a hermit crab or two. When I just googled "hermit crab aquarium" all I got was a bunch of "how to use your Walmart kit" stuff. Had to google "hermit crab aquarium bad" to get some info on why hermit crabs do poorly in captivity.
Most of this stuff seems to be about people keeping hermit crabs in tiny plastic terrariums though. My idea was to convert my old betta tank into a simple saltwater tank so I could keep a qt crab on my desk.
So, from the PETA list (apparently they write articles about crabs when they're not too busy killing cats)
>hermit crab pets are wild caught
As are most aquatic pets. Not really much you can do about that.
>hermit crabs need company
I constantly see them kept alone in various YouTube saltwater tanks and I know those guys are quite caring about their pets. Is this really true for the fully aquatic species?
>hermit crabs die quickly when kept in tupperware boxes
No shit. I would of course provide a heated, filtered proper aquarium for it. The size limit seems to be 2.5 gallons per crab, so one crab in a three gallon betta tank seems fine to me.
>crabs suffocate and dry out in Walmart tupperware boxes
The betta tank is filtered and has a built-in bubbler to agitate the surface. I'd also keep the crab fully aquatic.
>tap water poisons them
Good quality tap water + dechlorinator and aquatan.
>crabs need to burrow to molt
I was probably going to use pool sand for substrate.
>people in poor countries deprive wild crabs of shells because tourists like to buy shells
I fail to see what I'm supposed to do about that.
I think maybe you think I want to keep go out and grab a crab from a beach and keep it in one of those Walmart boxes? I was thinking more like pic related.
>Is this really true for the fully aquatic species?
>I was thinking more like pic related.
Go for it, but make sure you stick with something like your pic or another dwarf species. Some common fully aquatic hermit species get massive and many others get too big for a 3gal.
Tiny crabs are cute, but remember they can still climb out. Nori sheets and occasional sinking pellets are about all you need for food. Be vigilant with your topoffs because just a little evaporation in a 3gal is a big swing in salinity.
Cool, okay. I'll look into getting the tank set up after I get my salary then. I used to keep shrimp in it, so I'm kind of used to crustaceans trying to get out.
I just wanted to make sure you can keep them on their own, without a reef and fish and all that. Electric Blue is the one my LFS carries that I like the most, so I'll probably go with that.
Also my only sauce of something which is like RO water for cheap is Deionised water from the local garage. Which you use to fill car radiators.
But the fact they carry a warning to not drink the water makes me think it would be unsafe for aquarium use.
Deionised water is awful to everything living, don't put it in your tank.
Be careful about putting it in your radiator too, with winter temperatures and all. It's only really for topping off old batteries.
you'll need a stable running saltwater tank for hermit crabs.
you'll best take live rock for filtration (1kg/10l tankvolume) and a strong pump (15-30 of tankvolume/hour) f.e. 300-600 l/h in a 20l tank.
you should take deionized water mixed with a good synthetic salt. Change 10% per week. Check salinity with an aerometer.
wait at least 2 months, check water for ammoinia and nitrate. If it is okay, set in the hermits.
The one on the picture (calcinus elegans) gets very big and aggressive; nothing for a small tank.
I recommend clibanarius tricolor; they are small and peaceful.
Calcinus can kill each other for houses.
I have one calcinus laevimanus in a 18l tank for almost a year now.
I've had a lot of hermits in my tank before and wasn't able to keep them longer than a few months, but i think most got killed by a big pistol shrimp i also had.
You will have to learn how to saltwater tank before you can provide a good home for marine hermits.
oh, and better not use dechlorinators and other additional chemicals. The livers of crustaceans are very sensitive.
And don't use poolsand. Use coral sand and wash it maybe 5 times.
You just need a height of 1cm of it for substrate; too much is bad.
going to convert an old pool into a pond, leaving the liner and all that shit in , i need to be pumping 1/2 to 2/3ds of the water through a pump for aeration per hour correct? and i would assume with such a large quantity of water i probably wont end up filtering it before rain etc i will drain some of it to get fresh water etc wil probably stock it with browns, rainbows, brookies and tiger trout and maybe will add some channel cats just for variety good idea or nah?
>Fucking children keep them as pets in plastic boxes
Yes, and they always kill them in less than a month.
The fact that children can own an animal doesn't mean that they're qualified to do it.
the ones that live on land maybe. Not the marine ones?
I cannot imagine a box with saltwater, sand and some freshwater filter to be a stable ecosystem.
You need aerobe and anaerobe bacteria in liverock for nitrification and denitrification processes.
Otherwise the water gets toxic for the crab and it dies.
Its not hard or expensive to set up a small reef tank.
You'd have to change a lot of the water every few days. Actual seawater is very clean.
That would be more expensive than to invest in 2 or 3 pounds of live rock aside the time needed because the salt and RO water are expensive.
(coral sand 5usd, live rock 15usd, pump 10usd)
These rocks also contain a lot of animals and make the reeftank fascinating.
not that anon. Tap water might contain silicates which lead to a growth of diatom-algae.
Hello niggers. I just gave away some fish I was holding for a friend who all of a sudden didn't want them. Now my tank is empty. It's 30 gallons with a 45 gallon HOB filter with a few plants and sand. What are some interesting fish I can stock that do well with each other? I know for a fact I want some corydoras
How about 10 serpae tetra (or any tetra)
A pair of rams
Are Black Bee shrimp easier to keep than Red Bee shrimp /aq/?
The Red Bee is a mutation of the Black Bee so wouldn't that mean all Red Bee's are inbred as fuck? The Black Bee looks like it does in the wild.
It's a veblin good, something middle class people buy to show they have extra money. Or a hobbyist might buy to show he's more dedicated than you.
>Like the day I pay £150 for a light is the day I have brain damage.
This may sound strange, but the company undoubtedly doesn't want your business.
In my 30 gallon aquarium that i started December 31st, my topfin 30 power filter died on me. before i purchase a new one tomorrow, would it be wise to do my first water change for this tank before i start the new filter? the water is currently looking a little brown in a cup so i figured i should before i get the new filter but i don't want to kill the beneficial bacteria that has been growing in there. my tank is live planted as well. any help would be much appreciated
Take the broken filter out, remove the sponge, weight the sponge down somehow without damaging it, sink it in the aquarium. Do water change. Get new filter, replace sponge in filter with sponge that has the beneficial bacteria.
the thing is; i never had a sponge in the filter. the guy at the lfs told me i didn't need one and the carbon filter was good enough. after doing a lot of research i found out it was clearly way more beneficial to have the sponge. the problem was the filter didn't have a spot for the sponge otherwise i would have just put it in regardless
For me, yea. A friend of mine dropped off some fish. He didnt tell me he had convict ciclids. Those motherfuckers destroyed everything.
I personally like having little fish in a giant tank filled with green.
Filthy tank anon here, took out all the decaying catappa leaves and vacuumed the mulm as much as I could. Holy shit the tank was just so bad, and there's still a fine layer of stuff but it's much better now
I completely moved their hiding spots to the opposite side but they still hang out in their old area. Like this guy
Ditch the hillstream all together. The warmest the can handle is 72 anymore than that they'll be pretty uncomfy and possibly die. They like the colder side of waters. I have one though and it's long past his average life span and never had a tank heater and tank temp always fluctuated along with good water. But if you think you can handle it get one of those flow pumps so he will have a fun time in the flow and get good water circulation as well.
I might get these instead
along with the rams
Tell me if I'm fucked:
Just put water in my new 20 gallon, forgot to rinse the substrate beforehand though, so it looks like this. The substrate is fluval shrimp and plant, and my filter is an aquaclear 20. How long will it take to clear up?
I want two acara but they're 20 dollars at this chain store. Check out electric blue jack Dempsey. They get around 8 inches and are pretty uncommon though. My lfs sells them for 10 dollars but they're barely an inch long
I regret this decor so much
r8 my tank I think it looks lame.
My ex broke into my apartment and threw random shit in my tank as revenge for leaving her. I'm not even going to post the cut in half Python and water dragon.
So I've been an aquarium hobbiest for the mojority of my life I've had everything from goldfish in a bowl to a 300 gallon reef tank I've been really interested in having a smaller tank say 55 gallons with an octopus... Thoughts?
You want a bit more than 55 gallons for most octo species. It's doable though, just need really heavy filtration and make sure the lid is escape proof. Like, locked with zero holes level escape proof.
I think you have more experience and expertise on that subject than probably anyone on /an/, and while it's very generous of you to ask our opinion, it's also pointless.
they don't cost much.
As much as I'd like to have a tank with multiple species I know an octopus would probably eat everyone else in the tank...are there any possible tank mates so I don't just have a 125 gallon tank with a solitary octopus in it? Also where does one buy a healthy octopus preferably captive bred
liveaquaria sells octopuses. I don't know of anyone breeding them.
I'm a little worried if you don't know this already though. Specially since it's listed in the OP. What other basic and obvious knowledge are you lacking?
Ask tonmo, but as far as I know if you want a captive bred octo you're gonna have severe difficulty finding one. Tankmates are pretty much out of the question unless you feel like seeing what the octo won't decide to eat, but supposedly echinoderms get left alone.
I know that most octopuses are wild caught but I figured I'd ask...honestly I've never really had any interest in keeping an octopus until very recently when my 5 year old son asked if we could get one after we went to an aquarium and I thought well why the hell not look into it
it's not the octopus specifically that surprises me. I just don't recall ever running into a reefkeeper that isn't familiar with liveaquaria.
I guess 4chan isn't just the US though. From the looks of it it's all Australia now.
Yeah I'm not looking to get a 33 pound Pacific octopus just something that my kids and I can enjoy watching and isn't going to give my wife a heart attack if it finds a way to break out I'd rather wrestle something back into the tank with a head the size of my fist then a head the size of my dog
I'm not sure I believe you, I saw this exact same pic a couple threads ago.
Complete with those two perfectly healthy happy fish that wouldn't be healthy or happy if all those chemicals had been dumped into the water.
>breaking and entering and animal abuse. She's looking at 10 years with no parole.
Ha ha not in the modern world with revolving door prisons m8.
People can do 2 years for killing someone.
Can somebody tell me the name of this plant?
So I am making a several hundred gallon system of tanks hooked together with water bridges. Each tank will be home to one species of newt/siren with an uninhabited one full of filter material and etc.
It'll be setup so the newts are contained to their respective tanks, but the fish can pass freely between setups. Hopefully they'll end up breeding and etc in the filtration tank as well.
Can anyone suggest what to stock the tank with? Water will be from like 65-68 or so. The fish also need to be small so they can pass through the bridges. So far all I have is a school of rosies and a few gambusia. Thinking maybe some snails of some sort, but im open to anything that won't pick on the newts.
Also what species of plant would do well in a setup like this? Preferably fast growing and something that doesn't need substrate.
The judge is in charge of sentencing lad. And with today's liberal judges people don't get any time at all.
A drunken guy kingpunched an off duty policeman in my city a few years ago. His head hit the ground and he died.
Guy got 2 years in prison for literally killing a police officer.
Someone else got 2 years in prison for throwing bacon at a mosque.
I'm beginning a freshwater "experimental" 3 gallon tank, as well a 3 gallon reef tank. Found a shop here that charges dirt cheap for these little "360" glass tanks w/hoods.
I'm trying to test whether the fish can live comfortably in perfect conditioned water albeit in a extremely small place. I'll be taking note on whether or not they show signs of stress, erratic behavior, etc., etc., over the coarse of the year.
Freshwater will include...
>2 Golden Dojo Loaches
>2 Tiger Barbs
>2 onyx clown fish
>Less than a pound of live rock
>Assortment of small soft corals
It's an example of what the tanks look like...
Also, does anyone have any experience with Coralife Biocubes? Are they worth it? I'm thinking about picking one up to transfer my 20 gallon reef tank into.
>2 onyx clown fish
>Less than a pound of live rock
>Assortment of small soft corals
I lol'd a bit.
that's some seriously fucking small space for two fish though. Like you're going to be changing water daily if you expect those corals to survive that kind of pollution.
I know right?
It's going to be tough, considering I have to juggle that in between work and classes.
I just need the results to complete an "anthology on aquatic life" paper/project.
the fish should be fine, but the pinch of food you drop in for them every day is enough phosphates and nitrates to kill most corals.
should be an interesting esperiment.
I've read good things about biocubes here over the years. People seem to like them. I've never tried one myself.
You can see people having success with clown fish down to 2 gallons and up, but just because they have success with these "nano" tanks does not mean that it's right... and no, they don't need an anemone to host. They'll do just fine with out one.
A counter argument or justification people can make for confining them to such small places is that in nature they hardly ever leave their anemones, only ever to search for food.
Then ca live without anemone. The bigger the tank the easier it is to fill it with rocks.
If you can maintain the currents, and they will benefit from them, and add enough lighting, then you could keep an anemone and clowns in a 30 gallon setup. but 50 if you are in any way lazy.
there is a debate about the minimum space ongoing for years now.
Some say 16 gal are min., others say 30 or 50 gallons.
It depends on the fish's character, the anemona situation and other fish compadres/enemies.
Some swim a lot while others almost never leave their anemone.
no. I haven't. It has become an inhomogenous, unaesthetic mixture of red and brown, mostly brown coral over the years. It was beautiful and colorful once.
depends what you mean.
I regularly do my tanks to look like near-shore environments including stuff like concrete, rebar, wood, glass trash, chunks of cinder blocks, etc.
I try to copy places I've actually swam and saw reef fish in the wild. And by "wild" I mean things like Nassau harbor in the Bahamas or next to some shitty hotel in Hawaii.
they don't look like normal reef tanks, they just look good to me. They remind me of places I've been and fish I've seen.
by most accounts my tanks are ugly boxes of shit and trash.
Does anyone ever have an issue with shrimp not seeming to want to eat anything?
I put a piece of expensive shrimp food on a piece of slate, to keep it from going everywhere, and they seem more content to pick at the piece of slate than actually go for the food.
I was given one of these aquafarm tanks by a friend, but I don't have the pump that is supposed to come with it. Can you buy those at Petco or is there a cheap alternative I can use? I am assuming it needs a special pump since it's supposed to water the plants on top or something like that. I'm also missing the plant stones, but that is less important to me.
Can I get a plant ID? I love this shit it grows so fast
The plants are supposed to be the filter.
Throw that thing away, it's just an expensive way to kill Bettas because
1. Bettas don't eat plant roots
2. The plants won't remove enough shit from the water
3. They're too small for a Betta.
>I'm trying to test whether the fish can live comfortably in perfect conditioned water albeit in a extremely small place
It's already been tested, they'll get stressed and die.
You can use invertebrates though.
wut? I planted this all the time in my tank and it grew very well. Would also trim it and replant it. Maybe I had something similar but not quite this? Even though it looks the same..
I have quite a small tank and the water evaporates very quickly.
I have to top it up about once a week with few pints of water.
As its such a small amount I'm putting in, should I just put in 1 drop of conditioner before adding it?
I probably wouldn't bother. It is a very small amount, and the frequent water changes you do in such a small tank means that the fish aren't even necessarily exposed to it long enough to do any damage,even if it were a larger amount.
>wash out sand
>wait for the dust to settle
>be prepared to cycle the tank again (whether you do it fish in or follow the meme and do it fish out is irrelevant)
>put fish back in
Honestly I wouldn't bother with the water conditioner unless you feel like you're adding a significant amount of water. I do top-offs with tap-water all the time to no ill effect.
That said, you can cut down on the evap rate by adding a lid. (If you didn't already know.)
No thats true.
New Orleans is a scary place. Nigs can kill one another and the jails so full they can't even hold them for trial so they let they guy go.
I'm not trolling. Google it.
>Live in SoCal and Central Valley
>Ph 8.0 and high kh/gh wherever I go
>Sometimes Nitrate readings out of tap are like 10ppm
I'll never be able to keep fish that need soft low ph water, unless I want to invest in ADA memesoil and RO filters
Kinda sad, I would like to keep and maybe breed these guys one day
R8 my shrimp tank. It's a NPT (Walstad) 4g Nuvo AIO equipped with a 150w (yes, 150w) Metal Halide, passive Co2 Fert, and stocked with hundreds of pond snails, around 100 RCS, an oto, and a dwarf puffer, to keep the RCS and snail populations in check.
Note: the tank is still very immature. It cycled for a month, and has only had occupants for two weeks, most of the plants were put in last week, with exception to the floating plants and cabomba
That would probably be more tedious than having the tank cycle again.
You could keep your cycle alive if you leave the filter running (feed the fish half their normal diet for a few days until your bacteria reestablish in the substrate), but you should be prepared for sand and dust to clog it up.
Just noticed small green tufts growing in my tank. Dark green, smaller than a pinky nail, looks like some kind of a fungus? I found it on some driftwood and a little on the new plants I put in like a week ago.
Couple pieces of water lettuce, and a bunch of some beautiful purple azolla ferns. The azolla ferns are virtually impossible to keep unless you use an insane amount of light like I do.
As far as hardness, water conditioner isn't going to affect that one way or the other, as far as I know. ?
The biggest threat chlorinated water poses is killing off your beneficial bacteria and causing your tank to cycle. I posit that it takes a shit ton of chlorinated water to do this.
But this is just based on my experience. I mean anon can add dechlorinator if he wants, I feel like it's more trouble than it's worth.
The back of Seachem Prime says, what, a capful (which is roughly 5mL) for every 50 gallons or something like that? If you're topping off, like, 1 gallon of water, then you'd want to measure like 0.1mL of Prime. I wouldn't worry about it at that point unless you're dealing with like a 5 gallon tank.
>I posit that it takes a shit ton of chlorinated water to do this.
it depends on how high your municipal chlorine is and how much tank water you change.
Most cities add chlorine well in excess of what's necessary to kill bacteria. So if, for example, your city adds three times as much chlorine as needed to kill bacteria, and you change 1/3 of your tank water, you're going to wipe out your biofilter in a matter of seconds.
this is just an example though. Cities often add 10-20 times more chlorine than necessary, because it evaporates out of the water as it travels through the system. Likewise the amount of chlorine added varies at different times, and for different places.
the upshot is it's possible to nuke your tank with city chlorine when doing water changes. But then this is just one more reason why serious aquarists use RO/DI exclusively.
What is all of this on my wood? I've had the wood in there for about three weeks. It's fuzzy. Do I wipe it off?
>What is all of this on my wood?
probably fungus but it could instead be bacteria, algae, cyanobacteria. Hard to say without a microscope.
I wouldn't bother wiping it off, it'll just grow back. Let it do its thing and eventually it'll run out of food and go away.
I always heard that too. I started with only one little piece that came as a hitchhiker on the water lettuce, and it's just blown up. I'm trying to get it to completely cover so that my bottom dwelling plants and poor rcs stop getting bombarded by my 150w halide. From my experience the light level needed to keep them alive is pretty ridiculous, and that's what mostly holds them back from being kept commonly.
>Come home from work
>1 fire shrimp and 2 RCS dead
>Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0, PH 7, Temp 22c
This is what I fucking hate about aquariums compared to other pets. When your cat dies it dies for a reason and shows it's ill.
These shrimp just died for no reason whatsoever. £9 flushed down the toilet.
Also it's always my fucking expensive shrimp and my big females I lose.
Why can't some of my fucking low grade males die. They're my most worthless shrimp and they're fucking unkillable.
This lady shrimp killed and ate two of my other shrimp and most likely ate her babies too. What should this murderers name be?
True columbian ramshorn snails won't eat your plants, so I would use those. Don't go for any fancy colors like pink or whatever, usually those are actually a completely different species, and some look-alikes I hear do eat plants. They're supposed to breed out of control but I haven't had that problem. Once in a while I chuck a couple in my catfish tank but I haven't had to actually manage any populations yet.
>Dad gave me a free 180L tank with no stand
>Been searching high and low for a stand
>Brand new the stand is £130
>Don't want to pay that because I can get a 180L tank AND a stand second hand for £100
>Don't want to buy a tank and a stand used because then I'll have a useless second tank
Ree why can't I buy a fucking used stand of someone for £40 or something? I've been searching for months.
That's a ghost shrimp, right? They don't breed in freshwater. I tried for 6 months in vain, in effort for feed my knife fish. Also, the females can definitely be aggressive and killers. Get rcs, I promise it'll be much more rewarding
Find a local DIY or hardware store that will make the cuts for you. Literally every such store in the US will make your cuts for a small fee. Then all you need is a drill, which you can surely borrow or rent.
I went down this route before ans designed a stand. But I don't know how to convert this into a blueprint they could use to make the right cuts.
all you need is the length, width and height you want, then the dimensions of the lumber you're using.
length and width are determined by the dimensions of your tank. Height is whatever you prefer.
if you're in the US and building with 2x4s the lumber is 1.5" by 3.5".
so you just go around your drawing and find the length of each cut of board by figuring the overall measurement of the stand and subtracting any dimensions of wood to the outside of it.
so if your stand is 2' by 4', your top front length would be a full 4' long, but the top short side would be 1'9". (2' length minus two widths of 1.5", i.e. 24 inches minus 3 inches.)
just figure up the length of each board.
Well I'm American, but i suppose it's entirely possible I received the wrong species. I started with 5 berries females and removed each one immediately after all the eggs were released, with no luck
>Searching for tanks on craigs list
>Black Ash fish tank and stand. Tank 44x60cm, stand 46x65cm. Includes heater, filter, light and air pump. Pick up only or possable local delivery. Holds 30 litres of water.
How is that physically possible?
I know height of the tank isn't listed but if it's over 10cm, which it obviously is, it's over 30 litres.
I have a tank of similar dimension and it's 70 litres.
Hope it's still available, guy put the ad up a day ago.
If it's still available it looks like I got myself a new crystal shrimp tank. I've not had much luck with keeping them and I've settled on it just being too hard to keep 4 gallons of water stable, which is what they're currently in.
I've got everything right but when you can overfeed a fraction and get an ammonia spike just because of the tiny volume of water it's no good.
> My female betas keep getting sick and dying. Wat do?
> 20 gallon Long with overfiltration.
> Good water parameters, lightly planted tank, weekly 40% water change
> 9 corycats, 3 bettas (used to have 9) and one snail.
I live where temperatures are really unstable. Within 24 hours it can swing from 50 Fahrenheit to 75 and back. In summer it does the same thing only with temperatures around 70 to over 100. To prevent my fish from frying I currently have two small heaters that combined are 10 watts too small to perfectly heat things. The problem is that when we get cold snaps, the bettas get sick.
I have gone from nine bettas to three within two months. They all show the same symptoms (lethargy, not eating, death) and it hits rapidly killing fish after fish after fish. I'm pretty sure it's the temp swings making them curl up and die as it only happens when the temps swing.
Irony: the corydoras living with them are loving the weather. They keep trying to lay eggs! The corycats die from the heat waves instead. I lost two last summer, but that's a far cry from the rate I am losing the betas.
Should I just give up on the bettas or should I add more heaters and risk overheating the fish?
Suggestions on mid to top fish that can tolerate the temp swings and don't get more than 4 inches?
>Want to use ADA Aquasoil
>"Please note ADA Aquasoil is designed to release ammonia during tank setup to cycle"
Well that's fucking dumb, what if I have an already cycled filter I'm going to wack onto a new tank so it will be instacycled and I can move fish into it that day? I can't move fish over now because the substrate is releasing ammonia.
Most heaters don't regulate well. The ones I have right now claim to keep a "steady temp" but I watch the tank temperature fluctuate with the house temperature. I even turned up the house heat and the tank still is colder when it's cold outside. I have thought about getting a bigger heater but I'm scared that heaters that are "Perfect" during a cold snap could be "deadly" when things warm back up.
This is why I'm asking for help: has anyone else gone through something like this? Am I worrying too much?
Here's some temp comparisons (Fahrenheit):
House temp right now: 71
Outdoor temp right now: 30-ish
Tank temp right now: 68
House temp earlier today: 71
Outdoor temp earlier today: 45-ish
Tank temp earlier today: 73
heaters don't work like that.
as long as the thermostat works a bigger heater isn't going to cook your fish. They turn off at whatever temperature you choose.
there aren't any fish in the aquarium trade that are going to do well in your terribly-regulated hell tank.
But the filter currently has 50% of the bacteria required to filter as much ammonia as the fish produce. The other 50% is on the substrate.
I am removing the substrate so I am halving the bacteria colony. With the same number of fish that will already strain the filter.
Plus the substrate will be releasing ammonia.
I don't see how that's possible. If your home temperature is stable then so should your tank be. Doesn't matter what the outside temp is unless the tank is near a door or window.
I have an unheated tank that always stays at room temp which is 21-23c in my house.
unless you're running an undergravel filter your substrate has almost no nitrifying bacteria.
they require oxygen (water flow) and darkness to survive. This isn't a normal combination in most substrates.
>I am removing the substrate so I am halving the bacteria colony.
You're seriously underestimating the surface area of your biological media, whatever it is. Most breeders don't even use substrate, plus they overstock their tanks, and they do it with simple sponge filters. Your filter will be fine with a little extra ammonia. Just don't feed the fish for 2 days after moving them into the new tanks and do a small (<10%) water change every day and you'll be fine.
Usually ADA soil is used with the dry start method or at least in the beginning of a set up. There are ammonia spikes in all soil substrates though. I like it 2bh but it's fucking expensive.
How can I regulate the tank heating better or would more heating just "do it"?
> more importantly
The indoor temp is steady so why the drops?
How is my tank's temp below my house temp?
I'm not sure why temps that were OK earlier keep dropping when the outdoor temp drops. Tank is nowhere near a window and there are no drafts anywhere nearby (I checked when weatherproofing). I don't change the house temp through the day. This is driving me crazy.
I know the heaters are outputting as I have put my hand near them and felt the warmth. I have even been told that bettas don't need heaters so I'm really going beyond what most folks do. I am trying here. I have never owned bettas before.
if sunlight is hitting it that might explain the changes.
or if it's heating up when the lights are on it and cooling when they're off.
other than that, I don't know. I'd suspect your heaters aren't working right. Those little heaters are cheap crap.
I don't understand, either. So weird... pic related. I just took it a moment ago. One of my bettas says "Hi! Look what the corycats have been up to today!" I wasn't joking about them loving the weather!
No direct sunlight and both my tank and house lighting are both Cool daylight CFL so I don't think it adds heat. I also checked for drafts when I was weatherproofing so I know that's not it. There's a heating vent about six feet above my tank but you would think that would help, not hurt, and even then that is a long way up.
Any suggestions for heaters that don't suck and won't cost me more than my entire tank setup? Right now one is a small Aquaeon and the other is a slightly larger no-name brand. I put my hand in the tank. The water does feel warm so at least they are doing something.
if i were u, id get rid of the oto and just have the pea puffer.
i think the pea puffer is a great idea for the rcs and the snails if its practical, but i hear tht otos like to be in small schools. i also feel like the puffer might attack the oto.
buy hey, im no professional. tank looks really sweet
Is there a definitive guide on how to wire LEDs?
I want to add in 1 or 2 more small sets of LEDs to my shrimp tank, but I've never understood any of the math involved when doing it.
Dudes that's a sweet ass tank.
Can you get a pic of your puffer.
>Any suggestions for heaters that don't suck and won't cost me more than my entire tank setup?
just go to your pet store and buy a submersible 100 watt with thermostat. I don't know if it'll cost more than your whole tank, but I do know it'll work better than two 10's that aren't doing anything.
it varies. chloramine costs more so it's really only best in certain situations.
Livebearers usually come up to beg for food and pick at your hand while its in the tank. They follow you around the room and have a lot of personality for a little fish.
I can pet my mollie and swordtail, but i don't do that much, its not good for the slime coat.
unless im really high, then I'm petting those fucks.
You could have about 5-7 of them safely in ten gallon if its kept clean.
The only fish I would put in a saltwater of that size are some of the nano gobies. For the freshwater you want something other than the loaches and barbs. The only fish I would even think about putting in something that size are micro rasboras, endler's, or a betta. With those fish in tanks that size your filtration won't be able to keep up which means you would have to do near constant water changes and bacteria supplementation as you will be wrecking your bacteria population.
I mean wtf is going on here. This stand is even smaller than 2ft. This is like a stand for midgets or something.
Siamese Fighting Fish.
I had a blood red halfmoon plakat a few years back who I taught to jump for food, and he would always come flare up at me when I went past. and would brush up against my hand when I would clean the tank. Only fish I have cried over the death of.
So I just bought a 20 gallon aquarium off ebay for £30.
That should stop my expensive fucking shrimp dying right? That's 16 more gallons than the current tank they're in.
I'm going to use some proper shrimp substrate in this one like fluval shrimp that buffers the water right instead of using iron slag gravel.
>Otocinclus supposed to be the weakest fish in the aquarium game
>"Buy 10 if you want 5 because half will die!"
>Literally not had a single problem in fact they've been the last problematic fish in my tank. I've lost neons, rummy nose tetras, rosy tetras, guppies
Bought 3 a year ago. all 3 still alive.
Do split photoperiods work?
Say I want to keep my lights on for only 8 hours to stop algae growth.
Can I have it on for 4 hours before I go to work. Off while at work. Then 4 hours on after work?
lol, I literally keep shrimp in a 5 gallon storage container with only leaf litter as substrate and they breed like mad. I also have expensive golden bees in there too. I think you just need to cycle your tank properly or check what type of water your using. The extra gallons would definitely help though.
Same. Never had my single oto die, and I've had him for two years. He's been in 55gal community tanks, .5g walstad picotopes, and everything in between and he's always been such a happy little fella
...did you see my tank? Half of the day i can even find my puffer because she's out lurking, hunting some snails or something. I've kept pea's in a 55g super heavily planted tank, and none of them have been as happy as this girl. She has so many shrimplets and snails to eat, she just has a ball.
I am planning on getting the oto moved back to my community tank here pretty soon. He was pretty much in there just to keep the algae down while the shrimp and snails population exploded. At this point he's just eating food the snails and RCS would otherwise eat.
I'll try and snag a pic of her sometime. You'd be surprised how well she can hid in such a small tank, she's just always creeping through my java moss hunting snails and shrimplets.