Got a bearded dragon a few months ago. When I got him he was a little on the skinny side and just over 8 inches. He's now just a hair over 10 and put on some weight. I feed him primarily dubias, but throw in the occasional crickets and superworm. He never eats any of the vegetables or fruit that I leave him and don't know if I should be concerned. I'm at the point where he readily takes food out of my hand, he'll even start jumping to get on my hand and get to any food I may have and the only way I can get him to eat any fruits vegies is if I do that. He'll glare at me with this contemptuous look after he eats a piece of cactus pad, or squash. At what point do beardies move on to more vegetative matter in their diets?
Heres a rough projection of the tank I'm working on for a python. It still needs more hardware. The blue is a water dish, left is a half log and the right is a moist hide. It'll have live (stocky and smash proof) plants, microfauna and black chalk paper on the back and sides with basic python care and a log of when it's eaten written on it for if I need someone to python sit.
Anything I'm missing on my shopping list for a really happy python? amzn com/w/98F6VA14JQVQ
>>2041747 I phrase things. By that I mean things "to ensure the health, comfort and well being of this snake" Sorry I'm not a stuffy faggot like you who cant comprehend anything other than blunt and literal statements.
>>2041762 Look dude, you are coming to us for advice. I'm a fucking 20 year old college student who logically figured out what to put in the tank based on what snakes do and don't like. Fuck off with your aggressive attitude, pussy.
Half logs are fine for neutral decor and climbing but they are inadequate as hides. What you want for an effective hide is a cave with a small opening, minimal light transmission, and sized such that your snake just barely fits inside. Snakes like it best when they can feel the walls on all sides when they are curled up.
Best snake hides on the market are these: https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/#/product/30619
They don't look like much but snakes absolutely love them.
>>2041768 I will not be getting the log then. How about if I make a cave thats about the size of the snake out of raised substrate and something to cover it? That'd be kinda like a burrow. Would a hide like that make it so it needs a heat pad on the cool side too?
>>2041769 I'm coming to people who aren't autistic faggots for opinions. >I'm a genius because I'm in college I graduated 2 years ago. Grow the fuck up.
But some mealies and supers in dish then put veg on top. Place dish in tank. Beardie will end up eating some of the veg as it tries to dig down to the worms. They should progressively eat more veg as they grow towards adulthood.
>>2041797 Because everyone told you last thread senpai. You come off as a cock when a perfect hide for a snake is posted and you say "ugh fine I can work with it". do you also get hot and bothered when you see people keep snakes in racks?
Your concern shouldn't be aesthetics, but the snakes health.
I'm considering getting a crested/gargoyle gecko and making a planted tank. I have a 29 gallon tank that I plan on converting into a standing tank, but does anyone have any tips that aren't common knowledge on the subject?
>>2041848 Crested geckos refuse to touch standing water. you'll need to spray down some plants and let it lick water off leaves. Buy pangea diet, they hate the zoo med stuff. Crested geckos are only semi-arboreal so they dont stay up all the time.
Nah, the standing tank conversion is pretty straightforward. Clear acrylic sheets (plexiglass) can be used for your front panel instead of glass, I find those a bit easier to work with for mounting hinges and so on.
>>2041747 I think it takes more than just that to make a snake fully thrive, but that's just me.
Besides, they aren't hurting anything by going bioactive so why are you so worried about it?
Here's a secret: (Bioactive set ups usually clean up after themselves, provide their own humidity, look nice, and can make your snake more active and fun to look at.)
>>2041778 If you put a plant at the front and cover the back with one of those adhesive things (depending on where you put the log), it should be fine. Just block off both sides and it shouldn't bother them.
>>2041983 That might be fine for a BP, but a lot of snakes do not need as much humidity as them. I think this shows a great thing, there is a lot of disagreement in the snake community. I don't want any bad blood in this general, so I think we can agree to disagree.
Oh god, I saw a single mite (I think) crawling around on new snake friend. Checked him over carefully, didn't see any signs of them latched on. I can't get to a pet store until the weekend, do you think if I do a thorough cleaning/disinfecting with soap and diluted bleach I can stop an outbreak?
>>2042001 >>2042044 Also I'll add this. If I added some desert sand to make a loam soil, added low humidity plants and non-arthropod microfauna it'd be fine for other snakes. This one is set up to be good for a ball python because it's for a ball python. I'd make it entirely differently for any other species.
>>2042125 No I'm not upset at all, I just think you are speaking out of your ass. You said "I think you need more to make a snake thrive". You sound like a you tuber who gets mad at someone for a rack setup for being inhumane. I thought we buried this and are past this, I'm agreeing to disagree. You are being autistic and still bringing it up. My response to you earlier reflect that I'm not mad in the slightest, and that we should just agree to disagree
I have some free time this week and thought I would do some short write ups on herps that make great pets, are fairly common and easy to obtain, but not very popular in comparison to the top 10 most popular pet herps.
Starting with snakes.
/herp/ great pets you may not have thought of #1
Woma Python >difficulty: easy >nocturnal >4.5 - 6 feet in length with potential for larger depending on specific locale >arid climate >temp range high 70's to high 80's with humidity 50%-70%
pros: >enthusiastic feeders >friendly >active
cons: >slightly more expensive than other common snakes.
Kenyan Sand Boa >difficulty: easier than easy >18-36 inches depending on sex (males much smaller than females) >temp range: 80-95 >do very well on several inches of aspen substrate. especially shredded aspen as it holds tunnels well. it is not recommended to keep them on sand.
interesting behaviours: >this is a burrowing snake. they make tunnels. >females can be kept communally in some cases (be careful)
pros: >very cool looking >small >different behaviours than other snakes >basic care is essentially a tank with a thick layer of aspen, a water bowl, and maybe a log or rock to occasionally climb
cons: >they spend majority of their time below surface level of substrate >potentially fussy eaters depending on how they were raised. if their breeding was lazy and offered them live prey when they refused to eat frozen/thawed they can present some challenge converting to 100% frozen thawed. no problem if breeder trained them to eat frozen from the start.
Antaresia Pythons - aka Children's Python and related species
>difficulty: easy to intermediate. some species can be a little bitey >about 36-42 inches, a little smaller or larger again depending on species >temp range varies from 75-80's, sometimes basking spot of mid 90's recommended
pros: >really cool snakes and unique appearance >basically larger python personality in small python package >do not share the feeding problems of ball pythons >fairly active
cons: >might be hard to find and possibly expensive, however, they are captive bred in both US and EU
If you're looking at maybe getting a more expensive morph of ball python, I suggest looking a little closer at the children's python instead and see how they grab ya.
Uromastyx (several locales) >difficulty: suitable for careful and responsible beginner or intermediate just because of the hot basking temp. >DRY and HOT as fuck >10-18" average but can be 30"+ in the case of Egyptian uros (egyptians are a little more advanced in general) >diurnal and UV lighting required >because of the hot basking temp you need a larger tank than would normally be used for a reptile of their size (consult care sheets for specifics) >temp 80-100, basking temp 120+ but can drop to mid 70's at night >herbivore
pros >these are some of the funniest lizards commonly kept in captivity >they are quite active and will even use those spinning saucer things made for rodents to run on >herbivore means no dealing with insects, however that does mean you need to put in more effort to give them a varied diet of greens and veg and so on
cons >your electricity bill will go up a bit on account of keeping that 120+ degree basking spot going 12 hours a day >tank takes up more space than usual for reptile of this size
Sure. With snakes though it will be easier to take care of the plants if they are not directly planted in the snake's substrate. By that I mean put the plant in a pot in the tank. This allows you flexibility with the substrate indended for the snake without worrying about how that will affect the health of your plants. If you have to pull the substrate completely and replace, that's no problem if plants are potted in their own separate soil.
I'm not sure specific plants for snakes. Google 'live planted snake terrarium' and 'snake/reptile safe plants'.
>>2042494 Things seem to still be going well, he's still active and I think his stress levels are going down, but he's not out of the woods yet.
To ensure he stays cleaner I'm moving him onto a wax paper lining. I'm short handed on paper towels at the moment.
I think his pain on this has gone down since he first shed his scab. His body is still sensitive to the wound area, but not nearly as much as before.
Here you can see the lighter burn scab is starting to peel away with his shed. I couldn't get a great angle on this, but the wound looks very clean underneath, and not too deep. I tried packing as much ointment under the scab as I could. You can see it in the foreground as the dark brown crusty blotch.
>>2042494 >>2042499 >>2042506 Good on you, dude. I just lost a chicken that I nursed back to health after a raccoon attack to some unknown predator. It hurt a lot after watching her recover, seeing her dead like that.
Love your snakester extra for me, you're doing a great thing
Do snakes hit growth spurts? I think my ball python is just about a year old now and she's shedding again after only a month I haven't exactly been keeping exact tabs on when she sheds but if memory serves its usually every other month.
I bought some fake leaves for my garter and caught him climbing in them after i thought he escaped. He's around 5 months old, does any one with experience with garters know when they reach a bigger size? He's about 8 or 7 inches now but still pretty thin
Steppe Runner >difficulty: easy >about 6" nose to tail >diurnal >temp range 80 with 100 degree basking spot >insectivore
pros >they are the cutest little lizards ever >personality is similar to small monitors. i find them to be kind of ackie-like in behaviour >diurnal lizard that is active and is normally out in the open for the majority of the day >as easy to handle as bearded dragons >can be kept in colonies
cons >initially when they were introduced to the pet trade there was concern about wild caught specimens and how that impacted their native population. fortunately they are now quite widely captive bred in North America.
If you're thinking about maybe a leopard gecko or something but are turned off a bit by all the hiding and the being nocturnal, I highly recommend steppe runners as an alternative. Also great if you're thinking bearded dragon but aren't sure if you have the space for that much lizard. They are cheap, too.
>>2042992 My garter didn't get to any decent size until he was 1.5 years old. He's just over 2 years old now and still growing like a weed, he dwarves his size from last September, it's insane.
I have no idea how big he is, but he's somewhere around 24"-26" if I had to guess, and 43 grams. His tank is 30" long, and he's pretty close to length of his cage, so he may very well be 30". He's twice the size of the male eastern I have of the same age.
>>2043071 Up to you. I personally don't offer because I feel non-feeding periods are good, even if they're just a few weeks. It shouldn't harm the snake as long as its husbandry is good, but it also won't hurt it to be 1-2 weeks late.
The main problem with feeding in shed is if humidity is too low it can exacerbate dehyrdation because all of their moisture will go towards digesting rather than shedding, and this can worsen stuck sheds and cause the sheds to roll up on the bulge, potentially harming or killing them. But, as long as everything is in order it's generally risk-free.
Paroedura Pictus aka Pictus gecko aka Panther gecko aka Madagascar ground gecko aka ocelot gecko aka the pet industry can't decide what to call them so everybody just calls them pictus geckos
>difficulty: intermediate just because of how small they are as hatchlings. as sub adults they're about the same as african fat tail geckos, husbandry-wise. >5"-6" >semi-tropical mostly ground dwelling but can climb rough vertical surfaces easily >temp range 70-85 >humidity 50%-80% >insectivore
pros >smaller gecko that shares the inquisitiveness of species like the leopard gecko and AFT >they have some unique behaviours I have never seen other geckos do. Mine (I have two females at home) groom themselves like cats; licking their legs and toes >mostly untapped potential for a broad range of morphs. i think these guys could display even more colour variety than crested geckos with careful breeding >an individual pictus can be housed in something as small as a 10gallon tank
cons >some individuals can be very shy. this can be mitigated somewhat with careful taming and hand feeding.
My pacman had a bunch of moss in his mouth after eating his first worm, I tried to help him pull it out since he seemed to be trying to pull it out. I ended up pulling a rather large piece of moss out (made me scared he might get impaction so I removed all moss in his tank afterwards) however when I pulled it out his tongue was hanging out for a little bit and he started hopping everywhere. His tongues back in but he isn't burrowing like he was when I first got him, how bad did I fuck up /an/?
My jaguar carpet python has eaten twice, not very large meals because he has some jagging and i'm not sure if its okay to give him large meals. But the point is that he hasn't pooped yet, i'm not too worried but when should i start being worried? Its feeding day tomorrow.
>>2043363 Okay dude listen, I've been preaching this shit to every other pacman owner asking about feeding since I've had my pacster: do not feed them in their enclosure, at least not until they are fully grown. Take it out and feed it in something bare-bottom, like a tupperware dish or something. That's what I use. You never have to worry about impaction that way and it makes feeding easier
What kind of heat emitter should I have for my ball python enclosure? I have a light for it, and the housing. I have a 60 watt lightbulb in it now and it isnt getting how enough. It's anout 15 inches over the platform.
>>2043791 You're the one with the bioactive set up right?
If so, any belly heat is going to be 100% ineffectual. Even if you aren't, that deep of bedding isn't going to let any belly heat penetrate regardless. I'd advise a Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE), or Radiant Heat Panel (RHP).
This little fucker right here won't touch crickets. Won't even try. He'll eat roaches, basically every worm from nightcrawlers to superworms, my fingers, etc.
But won't even lunge his fat ass at crickets. It's not some crazy issue of him not eating, but every other animal I own eats crickets so it's obnoxious that this special snowflake needs something else?
>>2043805 It's a 50 gallon tank. 48Lx12Wx18H There's 3 inches of substrate. The room is consistently 70 degrees, hotter in the summer. I'm after a 90 degree basking spot. I'll try a 75W and go lower in the summer.
>>2043685 I tried this out in a tupperware dish with a little non chlorinated bottled water in it and tried to feed him some more worms but he ended up being really stressed out and trying to hop away the entire time with no interest in the worms.
Is there something im doing wrong or are pacman frogs really skitish when you first get them or something?
>difficulty: intermediate and before you yell at me that these are piss easy I insist on all amphibians being classified intermediate at base level. because. >size 1"-1.5" >red toes and butt >low 70's room temperature is fine >low humidity for an amphibian ~50%-60%
pros >it's like a poison dart frog but not a poison dart frog and easier care than poison dart frogs >they have a really funny walk. they sort of mosey around instead of the usual hop. >available captive bred in the US from Josh's Frogs and sometimes other places as well >can live peacefully in groups of any sex ratio
>>2043915 Wha... why did you add water? Just put him in the dish with the feeder and don't move around/make noise and he'll get it. I don't know why you added water, that doesn't even make sense. That's what caused him to be all stressed out
And if the worms aren't moving around a lot, he won't eat them. Their attacking instinct is triggered by motion, feed things that crawl or squirm
>>2044010 it wasn't a lot of water it was a very very small amount to clean the dirt off the worms. It didn't even go over his toes. But yeah I left him for a few minutes with two pretty active worms and he just kept trying to jump away.
>>2044013 Well feeling that on his belly, I'm sure it could have been kinda cold and stressed him out, he's a frog lol. Clean off the worms before you put them in. Just be very calm and gentle when picking him up and putting him in and he'll eventually figure out that that's where he gets fed now.
Unless you're frog's some kind of crazy guy, I say it'll eventually work. If I can get a wild-caught toad to regularly feed this way as well as a pacman frog, then I'm sure he'll figure it out and eat there.
>difficulty: easy >care is basically the same as crested geckos >temp mid 70's >humidity 50%-80%
pros >fully prehensile tail. as you can see in pic related they can do the chameleon tail curl >little larger than crested geckos but not as big as leachies >generally considered to be, and in my experience with them I agree, the most intelligent of the commonly available New Caledonian geckos. Very very curious about their surroundings >beautiful colour patterns
cons >they breed slowly and so are quite expensive. not leachianus expensive but pretty close. you're looking at maybe $250 at a reptile expo on the low end. $500+ for exceptional colouring/pattern (they don't really have morphs perse)
More panic time Snake's belly started to go pink with the start of her she'd cycle the start of this week. Went ahead and gave her a soak and up'd the humidity in the cage. Checked a day later and noticed the cage would be dry save for whatever spot in her hidebox she's sit on which would still have a damp spot. Got a bit concerned but assumed it was just part of the process and kept the twice a day misting along with a damp towel on top. Gave her one more check tonight and spotted this. I'm assuming the worst and that it's the start of scale rot. Is this early enough to be countered with dryer substrate and neosporin, or do I need to get an appointment with the vet?
Whats a good theme for my python tank? I need to make my plant and aesthetic choices based on a theme After necessities, I'd like to make it look nice with subtle accessories and stuff to make it nicer.
>>2044084 Because I'm not necessarily interested in doing west Africa. But I mean that plants from the everglades and a ball python cant live together. Some are swamp plants used to 100+ degrees and 100% humidity Ones a python that likes solid ground, ambient air of 80 degrees and 50%-60% humidity
>>2044113 You should only soak if the shed has already failed, this shed looks perfectly ok, she didn't need to be soaked this time. Soaking can ruin a perfectly good shed, so if her shed looks good next time just leave her to her devices and she'll be ok. It's not until it starts coming off flaky a soak is needed.
Have you tried switching to a tub? It won't look nice, but it should solve your humidity issues. PVC caging is another option, if you've got the money. They're really nice, I got some T12's from Animal Plastics and they were easy to put together with just a regular screwdriver.
>>2044128 A better alternative would be finding a high humidity bedding a reducing air flow. Misting doesn't provide humidity, just wetness, and won't be as effective as a good bedding and limited air flow. It's more a temporary fix than something you want to do long term.
>>2044516 Good. If there was a risk I could take it out to feed it once I get it, but leaving it in seems easier. Naturally, I'd never just leave his food on the ground. I'd put a plate under it if he refused to eat it immediately.
>>2044530 I've had snakes swallow whole mouthfuls of the stuff and they've been passing stool/urates normally several years later.
Even my tiny baby garter has swallowed some, and the fibers would just come out in his poo. Now I keep the garters on aspen because of how dusty EcoEarth (my preferred brand of coco fiber) is and their low humidity needs. But yeah, they pass it quite well in my experience.
>difficulty: intermediate >size: males: 2.5" females 4" >females are more brightly coloured >temp range high 60's to 80 >humidity 70%-80%
pros >just look at the picture >they inflate themselves to look big as a defense mechanism >more active than pacman frogs
cons >because of the mucus they produce on their skin it is not recommended to handle them without gloves as it can cause allergic reaction. this is not a good species for handling in general. >they do not tame very well >look but don't touch kinda froggy
hey guys I was thinking of adding some fish or maby shrimp to my painted turtles aquarium how likely is it that he'll just eat everything in a day or two? I've been feeding him turtle food for about 10 years instead of live food if that makes any difference.
>>2044825 I got him from a local reptile shop, I know basically nothing about morphs. I don't really care either, I mean there are really beautiful snakes out there I'm just not interested in that aspect of pet ownership. I just wanted a friend. Guy said he's a "pastel." We picked him because he was really adventurous when we were holding him.
>>2041696 How do I make my chameleon walk on my Hand I am super patient but he just gets stressed when I hold it near and appears to be climbing away from it anyone have any tips? Like when and how did you hold your cham the first time
So I put one of these coconut bird house things on my male crested gecko's tank. Hung it from the screen top. He is quite thrilled about it and has been spending the majority of the last three days in, on, or around it. So crestie seal of approval on this particular birb decor.
>>2045609 Aspen or cypress mulch is good for substrate, at least a couple inches deep as they like to burrow. 40gallon tank equivalent floor dimensions for adult (36" x 18", height doesn't really matter).
They are primarily nocturnal. Sometimes crepuscular in spring/fall.
Things are still going well. Today I started another cleaning session and his burn scab had finally detached from the wound underneath. It was only being held on by stuck shed. It looks to me like there is only the very smallest amount of bleeding, and no signs of infection.
I packed it with ointment and changed his wax paper, he seems pretty chill otherwise.
>>2045705 He's a juvenile (might be female) and lives in a 10 gallon tank. I actually heard that single Leos should have a minimum of a 20 gallon when they are adult but others claim they won't utilize heat sources properly with anything bigger than 15...
So something kind of shitty happened today. I was pruning a dead leaf off a plant in my gecko tank, and out of nowhere my male l. williamsi gecko made a run for freedom. I handed my husband a tupperware to catch the thing in, since he has better reflexes than me, and he got him, but well... amputated the lower 3rd of its tail. The injury didn't bleed at all, and we got him back in his enclosure. He's active and eating. What's the odds he dies overnight?
>>2045814 Check the wound for infection every other day. You can clean wound with nolvasan then dab a little neosporin on if you wish although that is not usually necessary. Tail drops, even partial ones, typically heal quickly.
>>2045953 There is no upper number limit so long as the tank is big enough. General guidelines for pictus cohab:
>10 gallons per gecko (20 for 2, 30 for 3 etc) >all female okay >1 male + 2 or more females okay >no more than one male per tank >if geckos do not get along you must be prepared to separate them to individual tanks immediately
They are prolific breeders so i don't recommend male/female group unless you have the time to find all the eggs and freeze or incubate them. Females are also known to retain sperm and can produce fertile eggs as long as 6 months after last copulation.
I was thinking about making cute snake hides out of clay. What sort of precautions should I take to make it snake safe? Not sure if I should leave it untreated or coat it with paint/sealer. Are most paints safe?
>>2046058 Oh, yeah I don't doubt he's a pastel I just don't know what that means really. Shop owner said his yellows would get brighter as he gets older. I hope his dark browns and blacks stay dark though, I love his contrast.
Are there any cobra mimics in the pet trade? I find the general look and head shape of cobras to be very handsome, but I'm not about to get myself some hots. I figure since viper boas exist there's gotta be something
>>2046186 There is but it's more of a comedy parody than a look-alike. Hognose snakes do a goofy approximation of the cobra hood. It is like a cute little puppy trying to look tough. Hognoses are pure kek just in general. They also play dead.
>>2045785 Thanks for clearing that up. I'll probably get him a 20 gallon next month at the convention. >>2045787 Yeah I actually really like the jungle looks despite improper location realistically, but the desert tanks are awesome too. Especially with succulents and tile. Maybe next time?
Also, bought him dubia for the first time today. Seems to like them!
And to my untrained eye, your pastel already looks really dark for such a young age, so expect a very dark low-quality adult. It's still pretty, though, pushing aside any quality arguments. Sometimes some of the prettiest animals are the lowest-quality individuals of that morph.
Neat. Good thing I don't really care much for morphs. He's hella cute and friendly. I'd be pleased as peaches if he stays exactly the same colours as he is now. The exciting part is seeing how he will change and grow!
>>2046343 oh yeah can someone more versed in morphs than I am tell me if my girl is a yellow belly or not? I was told she was a normal when I got her, but she has an abnormally high amount of blushing and flaming
>>2045705 Another thing if you don't mind /an/: I'm still clueless on age. I know he is a bit over 6in, not sure on weight. I've had him since December 5th (so he's at very least 2 months in February). Anybody have a clue? No patterns makes it a bit confusing.
Also another thing i'm curious about is if he's a regular blizzard or a blazing blizzard? The guy I bought him from called him albino but...looking back now I don't really know how knowledgable he was about geckos after all.
>>2046637 Nope. The breeder was pretty novice (or knew I was maybe?). Just said he had some recent hatchlings. Looks like he took great care of his geckos though, I'll admit. But I should have asked way more questions. If I get another I have a specific experienced breeder in mind next time that goes to conventions.
Okay guys so when I was a kid I had Leopard geckos twice, I loved them but I was a dumb kid and didn't take very good care of them, so they didn't live very long.
Now, years later, I actually have money and knowledge about it, so I wanted to get not a Leopard gecko, but an African fat tail instead. I looked for breeders in Ohio and came across a pretty legitimate looking website for a guy who's breeding leopards and fat tails near Cleveland. He has prices listed, and the site just said to email him about anything you're interested in.
So of course I shoot him an email about a few of the fat tails I'd potentially be interested in, and I did that this Thursday. I asked if we could meet in-person as opposed to delivering the animal because I only live an hour away and it's winter. He emailed me back Friday night at like 10:30pm saying that he'd be fine with meeting up, and asked where I was located. I let him know and said I'd be fine with meeting where ever, and that I'd even just drive to the facility itself if needed.
Well getting to the point I want to make, he hasn't emailed me back since then. I'm trying not be pushy, but I did email him one more time yesterday just letting him know that I have an enclosure already prepared for the gecko and that I'm ready to buy it and meet up. Nothing back from him.
This guy seems to be running a legitimate business but he really isn't on top of the correspondence aspect of this operation imo. Are breeders usually this way? I have a whole enclosure set up for this lizard and I haven't even chosen which one I want yet. Should I call the number listed on the site or something? I really wanna get this show on the road
>>2046791 This sort of thing has happened to me a couple times as well. Everything seems good but breeder sucks at communication. My advice is to pull out of the deal. Find a different breeder. Shit communication is NOT a good sign.
There are two AFT breeders in North America I have personal experience with. The Urban Gecko in Canada and Geckos Etc in the states. Since you're in the US, recommend Geckos Etc. Their communication is good and quality of geckos excellent. Overnight shipping of reptiles is safe by the way, you just sometimes have to wait for appropriate weather.
Urban Gecko is a specialty breeder. You will notice that the only normals they list on their website are het for a bunch of other stuff, thus the price. Breeders like this sell their (non-het) normals at expos and local reptile shops.
>>2047063 I'd definitely be interested in attending one, I actually have wanted to now for a while. The only ones even remotely near me aren't until the 20th or 21st of next month though. Bummer.
How old would you say they'd be at 20 grams? Just curious
>>2047065 That makes sense. Unfortunately in that case, I'm not really interested in breeding or specialty morphs, I just would like a pet. It doesn't even have to look fancy, when it comes to AFTs, one of the things that drew me to them was their natural color. I like brown blocks with a stripe.
Would you happen to know of anybody or a site that sells non-het normie geckos? Or do they sell so cheap that it's not worth the process anybody?
20 grams for an AFT raised in ideal conditions would be approximately 6-9 months old. Something like that.
You certainly can email any breeder to ask about surplus normals not listed on their site. They do not cull them... at least none of the breeders I have ever spoken to do that.
Also check faunaclassifieds.com classifieds. That's a good place to find smaller breeders. They have a pretty rigorous review system on that site so the people who sell there regularly have a good chance of being dependable.
>>2047083 Yeah man I gotcha. I actually went back and clarified in both messages to UG and GEtc that wild caught specimens were out of the question if they recommended anywhere selling normal non-hets.
>>2043252 I asked my vet once about this; my beardie was taking enormous shits only once a week, usually after a little activity. He told me not to worry; a lot of behavioral foibles can cause beardies to prefer different rates and locations for shits. As long as they are pooping, they are good, he said.
My Jaguar Carpet still hasn't tamed out after 2 weeks with me, expected, it always tries to strike at me when i pick it up and when i put it back. I wear gloves while handling it because the heat from my hand might spook it but it constantly strikes at my hand anyway. I know they are known to bite while young and this one isn't one year old yet or so told me the previous owner. It feeds fine but has a better food response at my hand than the food. I handle it about twice a week. Any advice? Pic related
I hope this is not suppose to go in Aquarium general, but I have an african clawed frog that is very lethargic and sometimes won't eat. 3 days ago I had the water checked at the local shop, he said my ammonia level was almost 2 parts per million, and to do water changes. He said that because the frogs don't have gills, they won't be affected as badly as fish would be, but I should still take care of it asap. Its a 20 gal tank and I've done a 5 gallon water change every day since. So I've changed 15 gallons but I know that doesn't mean I've removed 1.5ppm.. Anyway, up until that day I didn't see anything different behaviorally with either of my frogs. But that night the male refused to eat. Normally he is a very active eater but I literally set the half frozen cube of blood worms on his head and he barely touched it if at all. The same thing happened yesterday and I assume the same will happen the next time I feed him. I'm getting worried. The female is behaving normally, still swimming around and hiding in the little cave. My worry is that the ammonia has already affected him badly, and the female just isn't showing symptoms yet.. The plus side being sometimes ACF's are moody and don't eat, so they may be fine, but this is the first time either of them have acted strangely. They are almost a year old. Any input is appreciated.
Tl;Dr ACF suddenly not eating, is this because of ammonia in the water or is he just being moody?
>>2041696 Our veiled eating a wax worm that my fiance held in front of him on a tray, not quite able to hand feed yet, but getting there! Oh wait as I was writing this she texted me, he took on from her hands that's fucking awesome! I love this guy, unfortunately I'm at work so I missed it
>>2047153 Don't do that. Feed your pacman out of its enclosure and be there when it eats
>>2047178 >>2047167 I wouldn't worry about it unless it continues on. I doubt the ammonia has anything to do with it, honestly all the ruckus caused by the water changes could be stressing him out further. Clawed frogs are extremely resistant to pretty much anything. That could just be your dude's attitude. I don't think I've heard of ammonia doing anything to them unless it's ridiculously insane high levels or something.
I say put off feeding for a bit, that will decrease ammonia, and invoke a stronger feeding response for when they do get fed again. And just let them relax. I've had my ACF for a while now and have never had to check the water parameters, I just replace the filter whenever it gets filthy, and add some water conditioner to remove heavy metal traces. Metal ions are what will really fuck with them.
And if that doesn't do the trick and your froggie gets worse, ask somebody with more experience than me, sorry if that's the situation
Here's another picture of what I'm thinking might be a possible scaleless patch on his head. As far as I know he's never been bitten there, I know the picture doesn't show it but it's not scarred it's just smooth skin underneath. Obviously this is a few and far between occurrence but here's to hoping!
Hey guys, I've been interested in raising a bearded dragon for a long time now but I've always been pretty wary about the amount of crickets/other bugs I've seen other people feed them. Is there a certain cost effective way to keep one besides raising a colony of bugs? (Roommates would not be into that)-- or should I buy one a little older? I still want to see it grow up, but I don't think I want to get one that's very small just because of how many crickets the babies would eat daily.
So I emailed both Urban Gecko and Geckos Etc and so far only Geckos Etc has replied. The lady informed me that they do have normal non-hets in a certain section of their website, and to let her know if any of them interested me. I told her that there was one that I might be interested in and asked a few questions about shipping and their live arrival policy and shit, and she hasn't replied since. She replied within a couple hours the first time, now nothing. Am I just being impatient or is that kinda bs?
I'm almost tempted to just wait til Thursday for my local pet shop to get a new shipment of leopard geckos and just getting one of those.
>>2047114 Ive been planning on getting one of those for awhile. From what I read they completely change colors from birth to adulthood right? So its just luck if I get one of those super contrasted black and yellow ones right?
I've read that they are quite nippy when they are young btw and that it eventually dies down as they get bigger and less afraid of everything eating them.
>>2047114 I don't have a snake, I have a leopard gecko.
It's going to take time for him to get used to you. I don't know why you're trying to pick him up already.
Do normal tank maintenance. Let him see you and he'll realize you aren't a threat eventually. Put your hand in the tank every other day for 10 to 15 minutes and stay still. Just let him see you, slither over you if he does. Don't make fast movements and spook him.
Was just browsing through the pacman frog hashtag on Instagram (don't do this btw, shit owners galore) and I came across this.
Like what the fuck? How can you justify feeding a pacman frog a large snake whilst keeping it in a terrarium with small gravel as a substrate? People feed these things anything because of the whole "lol its just a stomach with legs" meme. Just because they will bite at anything doesn't mean you should feed them anything.
You were correct, once she shedded (first time it's all come off in one piece since I got her) I was unable to find any discoloration. It's amazing how common things with reptiles look similar to the things that can harm them
>>2047114 first off, assuming you gave it a week to settle in to its new enclosure like you should have before interacting with it in any way, that would mean you handled it twice so far. If not and you went right in to handling it without giving it time to settle, then you've still only handled it 4 times. This is a long time consuming process, its not going to happen over night. just relax and take it slow, i suggest handling in its enclosure for a while at first, that way if it wants it can escape to a hide and feel safe. then over time you can get it out of the cage little by little. dont wear gloves unless you are really worried about its bite, your hands aren't going to startle it any more without gloves on. it might also help to move some things around before handling it, wash your hands first and then maybe pick up something in the enclosure to keep between your hand and the snake. I will usually pick up and move the water bowl out of the way and then pick up their hide, this way they know its not feeding time.
be aware of the snakes body language as well, i can't comment on your handling technique since i cant see it but i try to avoid manhandling, even when putting them back in the enclosure i let them take their time going back. tree snakes are also generally a lot more flighty and timid when young so just give it some time
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