The last thread has hit the bump limit, so once again its time for us to start a new one.
These are my 4 pacman frogs, for whatever reason they are my absolute favorites out of all my reptiles and amphibians.
How many of you guys have pretty big snakes?
I always hear about "YOOOOO, THAT THINGS GONNA GET HUGE" but I never see any pictures.
I'm interested in snakes, and want a dude that'll grow pretty big over the many years of his/her life.
RECOMMEND ME SNEK
(Previous experience - garg gecko breeder. Snakes are new territory.)
I don't have a big snek (BP above) but I have a friend with a huge Burmese (6-7 feet) that I babysit occasionally.
Super sweet snek. Got me into snakes, as a matter of fact.
I don't anymore, since my douche of an ex husband gave her away while I was at work, but I had a red tailed boa. Bought her as a teeny tiny baby snek. Had 6 years with her. At the time he gave her away she was just shy of 9'. And fat. Wasn't a gorger or anything, ate as she was supposed to. Just fat. I wish I could find a picture of her.
My largest is a 14 foot retic.
If you want something big and nice I highly recommend a male green anaconda. Just make sure you find a baby that is already nice or you risk it never taming down.
If you want something more reasonable I'd say a redtail boa or a yellow anaconda (again, get one that's already tame.)
I was livid. It was one of the reasons I left him. I had her and a few cockatiels. He was worried about our newborn getting hurt by one of the animals, so logically, he gave them fucking all away. I had them before I ever met him. And the tiels were in their teens, hatched by my parents and never knowing another keeper other than me. If I could have gotten away with murder that night I would have.
No. I searched for two years after they were gone. I looked for flippers on craigslist, posted everywhere I could think of. But no one is going to give back exotics they got for free. The only one I ever got back was my 16 year old tiel. He made it 3 more years with me before dying on my birthday this past year.
Right now, my largest is a 6.5' boa constrictor, but I've got a young retic.
6'-7' isn't huge, especially for a Burm. I wouldn't even consider that a big snake, 6'-7' is still tiny.
If it was fat, it probably was eating too much, snakes don't really have thyroid problems. Unfortunately the whole "feed boas weekly" thing is really widespread so you probably didn't know. An adult boa should be eating a large rat every 3-6 weeks. If they're big enough for jumbo rats, it's time for rabbits, because jumbo rats can also make a boa fat.
If you get a baby, be warned it's 100% normal for them to be nippy, they grow out of it. Don't worry about the snake being docile unless you're getting an adult. Even an adult can calm down with time, but I can understand not wanting to work with a 6'+ snake that loves to bite in the meantime.
My big boy. 6.5', and 4.5 years. He's a few ounces shy of 9 lbs. He gets a large rat or an x-small rabbit every 5 weeks, and he's currently being fasted for the winter.
Hey guys, mind rating my setups? It's for 2 male beardies (kept individually, used to live together but you know, 2 MALE beardies). The whole thing on both are homemade from pretty much scratch. Aside from the lights the entire setup for both tanks set me back around $80 Australian.
The broken light has been replaced since the picture. I've had em for 5 years and they have always seemed pretty happy. I let them out a lot to compensate for the kinda small tanks.
Alright dude I don't even own bearded dragons but I think we can all agree that you're failing in many areas. For starters, I'm pretty sure a beardie of that size needs a lot more space than that. On top of that, he has literally no places to hide, all lizards and reptiles in general need lots of hiding places. Also importantly, you need to be providing both a heat lamp and a UVB lamp for bearded dragons, to my knowledge. You only have what appears to be a shitty heat lamp with a terrible basking area (ideally it should be flat and easy to rest on, not pointy and weird).
I mean not to be rude, but can you honestly look at that setup and think it looks suitable? It confounds me how people can mess up so badly when there's an abundance of care sheets on these species online.
4.5 years. Unfortunately I started him out on a bit of a heavy schedule...he got huge for a 2 year old and was a pound overweight by the time someone pointed out he looked chubby. He was 5.5' and nearly 10 lbs, and now he's a foot longer and not even 9 lbs. Took me a year to get him to shed all that fat off, now he's a pure loaf of muscle. I was feeding him small meals, but I was feeding him weekly and it caused him to be a foot longer at 2 years than he should have been (2 year olds average 3'-4').
The only thing that this mentions that I'm not doing is a mesh ceiling. I monitor temperature religiously, I feed properly and the substrate is one of the Aussie versions of reptamat. Honestly I don't get what you mean, other than the small one having a small tank, which is being replaced soon anyway.
Yeah he does need a bigger tank, I am working on that. They have UV tubes not bulbs as the bulbs here in a use are generally kinda shit quality. The basking rock is flat, it does look spiky but it's quartz, from the angle the vines make it look pointy though.
But you are right about the hiding spots, they used to have a cave up until about 2 months ago when family members broke them accidentall. What would you say is a good replacement or what other things should go in the tank to rectify the situation?
Alright, I've got some show boxes, large miniature boxes lying around so I'll get into that. Anything else I should put in for them? If there are changes I can make to improve their quality of life I'll spend as much as I need to, they are my favourite things I own. And I want them to live as well and as long as they can. But aside from decor/tank size I'm sure I'm doing everything right. I maintain temperature as well as possible (which can be difficult in Melbourne) and I feed them properly
How do you deal with humidity in an enclosure like that? I just remembered that I have one of those old vertical octagon fish tanks in my basement that I could use to make a very nice crestie enclosure, but I'm worried about the humidity
Red tailed boa. around 2.60m, nicest snake I know. always super chill. rescued her from waaay too small enclosures, not being fed enough and being treated badly.
She likes the couch :3
I'm about to get my first pacman frog I was wondering what type of food should be his staple, as it stands now I can't really use crickets because of noise concerns. I was thinking of breading worms and possibly feeding it some different dead insects I found they have at the local pet store.
Ah cool, what would you suggest for heating? Some people say heating pads are dangerous but others say a lamp will dry the frog out. I was thinking of getting a low wattage (50 watts?) red bulb.
For mine, I use a heat lamp and a small heating pad on the side. But then again, I have mine in a plastic tote, so moisture escaping isn't an issue. The frog will bury itself in the soil where it's moist, so that usually isn't a huge issue, unless your using a screen top and a really hot bulb. I also have a live plant that does an excellent job of retaining moisture.
If you do use a heat mat, place it on the side of the tank, not on the bottom. And use a thermostat.
And while we're at it, make sure that you feed your frog outside of its tank, at least until it's full grown. I see people do this all the time and it passes me off, they will almost always swallow substrate if you feed them in-tank. I take mine out and feed him in a plastic tupperware container.
They're quite different than crested geckos as far as behaviour goes. Less likely to hide in the foliage but also less active. You will probably see your garg more often but it will mostly just be sitting there. A bit easier to hold than cresties, less likely to jump. Gargs will use hides, so make sure to have cork rounds and pvc pipes and so forth in any garg tank. They will also bask if you provide than a daytime basking spot.
One other thing, i'm not entirely sure how to explain; gargs can be weird. They sometimes have very peculiar mannerisms, even for lizards. It's hard to describe. You'll see...
I don't know offhand but I'd say either 25 or 50, leaning towards 50. And I suppose you could, but I personally wouldn't. Impaction can be a pretty big issue given they just ballistic launch at their prey and swallow whatever gets in their mouth.
Weird as in climbing and even sleeping in strange positions, keeping inconsistent waking hours, stalking around their tank so slow it looks like they're pretending to be chameleons.
Do note that gargs aren't going to sit still when you hold them. They aren't froggy likes crested geckos but they will want to climb from hand to hand constantly.
If you're looking for a small lizard that will sit still on your hand for short periods of time (15 minutes), I suggest looking in to steppe runners. They are diurnal, have sort of monitor-like personalities, and about as easy to handle as bearded dragons.
here's a good video on gargs. it shows what they're generally like to hold as tame adults. these geckos are being hoppy in their tank because of the camera and wouldn't usually be this active.
For sure. They will be a little zippy as hatchlings but calm down nicely with regular handling once they're getting towards adulthood. Their eccentricities make them pretty entertaining sometimes.
He has pretty heavy tiger stripes too.
He's almost red and his stripes are burgandy when he's fired up and has shed recently. Otherwise, he's this dull orange color. It seems to show a bit more often after every time he sheds, so I hope he'll hold that color better when he's older.
Okay so I have a quasi on regarding my baby painted turtle's shell. I've noticed on the carapace that there are like these spots on it, the closest description I can get for them is that they look like the residue left behind if you let water drip on glass and thenjoy it evaporates. They're visible even when wet. What could this be? I'll take her to a vet if it's absolutely necessary (we were just there about a month and a half ago and got a clean bill of health), but I'm not in the best financial state and I prefer to do something about it myself if it is at all possible.
Alright I'm thinking that it's very early shell rot. I just ordered some Nolvasan online and it should be here in a few days. In the mean time I'm going to try doing some dry docking.
Pic related is my turt's aquarium. What could I be doing wrong to have caused shell rot? I clean the whole thing every two weeks, and I provide a good basking area and UVB. The only thing I thought it could be is that I forgot to buy filter pads last time I cleaned it, so I rinsed and used the same one. It was pretty gunky when I replaced it yesterday. Could the backup from that have caused the shell rot? There's a fresh one in there now
Crested geckos like a good bit of humidity. Mine naturally hovers around 50 and spikes to 75 when I mist it. It's perfect for him.
I use a mixture of coco fiber and soil. Substrate is a big deal for humidity.
I did replace all the glass on the lid with screening. I also blocked all the holes and superglued rubber bands to the door so it would never be open on its own.
If it's too humid, get a whole screen lid.
They make great enclosures, they just need fine tuning. It took me 2 months to get mine perfect.
I wouldn't feel too bad, misinformation is extremely widespread, and the majority of people think adult boas should be eating jumbo rats weekly when that's a recipe for obesity and fatty liver disease. Finding good information is extremely difficult, and the majority of the reptile community still isn't open to changing husbandry. At least now you'll have better information if you plan on getting another boa.
Here's my other boa constrictor, she's just a baby right now but she's growing fast. She grew 4" and put on 20-40 grams in the first 2 months I had her, and she's probably grown another inch and put on almost 20 more grams since then. I've got her weight, but I haven't measured her recently. She came to me at 20" and 80 grams at the end of July, and is now 24"-26" and 136 grams.
Her growth was so rapid and she was starting to lose muscle definition and get chubby, so I had to cut her down from a 7-10 day schedule to 10-14 days. She's steadily putting on the grams and growing noticeably every month, I just haven't gotten around to physically measuring her length in awhile.
Nope, it's a perfectly reasonable reaction, the water is cold and doesn't feel nice as it hits their skin.
Misters provide wetness, not humidity. If you want humidity, you either need to run a humidifier to bring up the overall humidity of the entire room, or make your bedding the source of humidity.
All a mister does is throw water into the air, it doesn't stay suspended so it's not humidity, it all settles around on stuff. Actual humidity requires evaporation, hence why I said make your bedding provide humidity.
I would just avoid spraying the snake directly until you can switch to your regular bedding, snakes generally don't appreciate being sprayed at. If nothing else, increase the distance of the sprayer so that the water sprays gently on the snake.
whats the best way to treat infection sin amphibians, /an/?
Toad has an open wound on its leg, not sure where it came from. it seems to be healing alright,but I wanna be ready in case it gets bad.
You guys got any links about the Leaf-Tailed Gecko? I gotta make a project about where they live/what they eat/morphology/importance. Inb4 fuck off faggot.
New terrarium for muh Pueblan Milksnake. R8 it mates.
I recently got a bearded dragon from someone who did not want it, he is an adult at about 3 years old.
He will not eat vegetables or fruit I give him nor will he eat from my hand.
How can i get him at least eating veggies?
All he wants to eat are mealworms
Hand feeding is something you need to wait a while for. He doesnt trust you or the new food yet so trying to make him do both is too much. Once he's accepting the food for a while, then you can hand feed him.
Does anyone know any snake identification guide lying around on the interwebz? I'm talking SEA/Aus region here.
Might got a young Cobra or Eastern Brown.
Which side is hot and cold? Seems to not be much differentiation between them.. Only a few inches. Also, sand? I would say more hides, aspen because snakes love to burrow in it. Keep the stick and get multiple smaller hides than 1 large one (unless the snake is big, but the small tank feels like otherwise
Can someone help me out with fat tailed geckos? I had this guy when I was 9 but I'm pretty sure I'm doing many things wrong.
His name is Seamore (I know I spell it like a retard but I was 9 when I named him). The only information I've had regarding gecko care is what the shop assistant told me and the little research I did right after buying him.
The day I bought him I was told that the best substrate to use in his terrarium would be sand, which I recently learned was wrong and that I should use wood chippings/bark instead. After finding this out I figure I should try and do some learning and try improving his quality of life.
Some problems he's had is he's lost many of his claws. I'm not sure why this has happened but I'd like to know what I'm doing wrong so he can keep the few he has left. He also has shit vision. He can only see his prey if its moving. Is his vision supposed to be movement based or is he blind? I'd also like to be able to handfeed him, but I'm not entirely sure if that's possible.
I'm also not sure on how often I should be feeding him, how often I should clean out his tank, and what temperature I should keep it at (should I be changing it during the night?)
If anyone knows some good online resources for this kind of gecko care I'd appreciate it. I find lots of conflicting information on different websites but I figure you guys know what you're doing.
Oh, and how old do they live? The guy in the shop told me he'd live for around 15 years, but I've read in other places that they can live for as long as 40. What gives?
Thanks in advance and sorry for being retarded
Just missing the claws or missing the end of the toe? If it's part of the actual toe, most likely your gecko had a series of bad sheds, some was left on, dried out, constricted, toe end falls off. In order to prevent this, put a moist hide in the tank (tupperware container with a hole cut in and moist moss or paper towel inside. AFT's need 50%-70% humidity so you should be misting once every day or every second day.
Temperatures: 90 on hot side, 75-80 on cool side. It doesn't need to change at night.
Feed every second day.
this is a decent care sheet
Thanks for your help, reptibros! She's much more inquisitive and stopped hissing at me.
This is me
So, It's a Coastal Taipan (pretty sure after feeding it gecko). What should I do with it?
>that forked tongue
Weekly feeding post of muh Kang Snek. This week: 1 small fuzzy. Week 2 on fuzzies and he loves it.
And he's done. Time for a post dinner hunt for extra food (there isn't any), and he's gonna go hide and digest like a good snek
I saw this alligator at the park. He looked like a fake alligator, if that makes sense. I could see him breathing though and he looked at me. It was a nice meeting.
I feed my king ever 7 days. You can feed a snake as much as you want or in one meal doing a lot of food (see power feeding). What you risk is: obesity, shorting of lifespan, and general animal cruelty. Balls are notorious for going on and off food for no reason, you might not worry about obesity. Maybe other people can chime in on that. I can say that my king eats whenever food is Infront of him, he literally ate one time and then shed his skin immediately after. Kings have a great reputation for scarfing down food, balls reputation for occasionally going on and off food might give you room to feed him more frequently if he will go off for a month.
That being said. Power feeding is bad. It is evil. Breeders and online reptile sellers have a stake in getting animals to breeding size quickly. I have heard of breeders power feeding, and it's not good for snakes.
Maybe other people will chime in.
Every 3-5 days would be considered power-feeding. Ball pythons grow fast enough without pumping them full of food multiple times a day.
It takes a baby snake at least 7 days to fully digest their meal (longer for some species like boa constrictor and blood python), which is why I don't really like feeding them more often than 7 days.
As adults, most rodent-eating snakes can be fed every 2+ weeks.
Normal snakes look like an upside down U. A fat snake looks like an O. And a skinny snake looks like a triangle. As look as you can see some level of spine definition and feel it, I'd say it's not overweight. Also look for a noticeable "neck" on the snake where it is a little skinnier going towards the head. Google obese snakes, they also have bulging at the scales their bellies and it's very noticeable. It's obvious.
My king loves it. He doesn't spend any time above it. He just makes little tunnels and burrows all in his aspen. I made it about 3-4 inches deep just so he could play in it, and lined the bottom of the tank with brown paper grocery bags so that he doesn't even come in direct contact with hot areas. Also the aspen does a good job to absorb heat so it's never too hot on the hot side.
Depends on the species.
In ball pythons, you should still see muscle definition. If they're all flab and look pretty much perfectly round, they're overweight. In obese ball pythons, they'll have "hips," where the tail tapers really fast and it looks like the snake is holding onto a really huge poop.
A ball python should also have a really obvious neck, the neck should be a lot skinnier than the head. If the neck appears to be almost as big around as the head, it's overweight. And if it isn't overweight, then it most likely was powerfed as a baby. Power-feeding and over-feeding can cause "pinhead," because the snake's head can't keep up with the rest of the body.
Another thing to look for is scale separation in snakes that don't usually have scale separation. If there's scale separation when at rest, it's time for a diet. Don't look at bends in the snake, it's normal for there to be scale separation at the outside of a sharp bend.
I don't know what cypress mulch is vs EcoEarth, but I'd need roughly 10-14 qts of EcoEarth to fill a 50 gallon tank at ~2", if I had to guess. I have a couple of T12's that have roughly the same floor space as a 50 gallon, and I'd probably need two blocks each to fill them.
If you can, I'd just buy the biggest bag you can of cypress mulch and use what you need. If nothing else, you'll have enough for several bedding changes.
Alright guys. One big reason to not buy cypress mulch is that they actually take down cypress trees to create them. This is detrimental to the wetlands and environment of the gulf coast. My family owned a Garden Center and outright refused to sell it because of the impact on our wetlands (we live in new orleans). Please do not buy cypress mulch. For gardening use pine needle, and for vivariums find an alternative (there are tons.)
I just rebuilt my iguanas enclosure and realized that the uvb lamps are about twice the recomendded distance than they should be and I dont have any particular method of fixing it for the moment atleast.
5.0 bubls are recommended for iguanas but could a 10.0 make up for the difference or do I need to figure out how to rig something?
>not kill my ass
Ok family. You sound like your goals are realistic. Get a lizard from your garden and that's it, you don't sound mature enough to keep a slice of cheese cold.
So you want a big reptile. You want something big like the komodo, but maybe not going to kill you. Do you fucking realize how much a komodo dragon weighs? Great find something non-toxic to humans from a bite, and even then a lizard that weighs as much as you do is a big fucking problem to handle.
My little corn Io just had his first shed since I bought him and it seemed to have gone perfectly, no skin stuck to him besides a very small piece on the tip of the tail which came off easily. Feels bretty good, his colors look so pure and he's got the scales back that he lost in his last shed before I got him. Thing is it caught me off guard because I just looked in the viv today and the skin was there. Didn't see any signs he was coming up to a shed, no misty eyes, colors didn't dim much, no signs that he was agitated during handling the day before. This normal for some corns or could something have caused it?
sounds totally fine, sheds happen when expected and unexpected. As stated earlier, I've had my king go straight from swallowing a mouse into peeling back his skin. Ive also had my king shed twice in a month. Its their response to whatever is going on food wise, wellbeing, stress, etc.
What a shitty guide
>picture of a savannah isn't even a savannah
>Calls iguanas docile giants when they are one of the most dangerous large lizards because of their fucking awful breeding season
>first two things on the iguana diet are fucking lettuce and grains
Yeah, it should. I'd bump it by a bit, you may have to change aspects of your enclosure to do so. My retic's never shed anything but whole sheds, their skins are just a bit more delicate than other snake's so they're a little easier to damage. Gentle care and humidity is what they need.
It may still come off ratty, but as long as there's no stuck sheds it's good. Retics are rowdy snakes, they tend to tear up their sheds crawling over them.
For now, just soak the retic so the rest of the shed comes off. Once your humidity is where it needs to be, you don't need to bathe it anymore, bathing is for snake's whose sheds have already failed.
Leopard geckos are so cute and easy to care for. But sadly you can't handle them all too often. I'd like to get one someday but I'm afraid of getting bored of them. Like after a month of taking care of a betta, I got bored of him. All I could do to interact with him was feed him. Don't get me wrong, I spent upwards of $200+ on his tank and I provided utmost care and regular water changes since it was a 5.5 gal tank. But because I was at work so much, and because you can't fucking play with a fish, I got so fucking bored. Ended up giving the betta and all his gear free to someone and her child. God knows how he's doing now.
Is there any way to find local Leo owners so I could maybe carefully play with or observe their geckos without actually owning one yet? Gosh they're so cute but I'm not in the mood to waste hundreds of dollars, give up the animal if I get bored, or accidentally hurt/neglect it.
Shit's expensive here. Petsmarts, petcos, and LFS's
Plus I wanted to provide good care. Last time I had a betta it was in a 2 or less gallon tank and I didn't give a shit about her after some time. Wanted to redo it better you know?
Only there's so much you can do with a fish
It's impossible to get a consensus on a whole specie of animals that simultaneously follow a rough outline of care but need down to the T specifics of husbandry or risking hurting the animal.
Young snakes: feed every 7-10 days
There are charts concerning weight and food you feed them. I think it's called my munsons or something.
DESU. If you go to a local family not big chain store, they usually don't mind you calling every now and again to ask questions. I live in a fairly big city (New Orleans) and the one vet who is trained in exotic pets is actually leaving this year so. I'd say beyond maybe diagnosis, but treatment is definitely something the herp community and forums works together on. It's all you might have at your disposal.
Herp general faq would probably amount to something like,
New herp care;
>don't fucking mess with it for at least one week
>use a fucking thermostat
>sand a shit
What's a qt cuddly reptile that can be my bestest pal and snuggle buddy?
>don't get a fucking reptile
How do i take care of...?
>google fucking caresheets
Thread needs more snek pics
Also if I were to theoretically get another snek, what species should I get? Presumably as an adult too
noob question incoming
I've heard I can do a full tank clean with vinegar instead of bleach
What kind of mixture do I want?
And I assume its the same way right? Apply, let it sit, wipe it off, wipe down with clean water?
Post feed muh kingsnake is a happy dude motoring around his Viv. He ate a fuzzy and 1 day later digested and is ready to cruise his tank. I guesstimate he's grown an inch of two in the last week.
Yes, but keep in mind that will not sterilize the tank completely. I would say scrub down the whole thing with soapy water, rinse, then do 50/50 water/vinegar solution, thoroughly rinse, dry.
yes your humidity was probably a little too low. you can always put a moist hide in the tank if you're having difficulty keeping the whole ambient humidity of the tank high enough. BP's definitely will use them if provided.
Why do people have a hard time keeping humidity in glass aquariums?
I have a 75 gallon and it's piss easy to do. Half glass on top, moss, and more surface area with your water bowls.
It's pretty simple.
I don't remember where I got it but my 75 gallon has a frame piece in the center that lets you put two glass panels on either side that open. I just leave one off and put a mesh top over that.
It's possible that I don't even need to do that though if I used substrate that held moisture better but in a large tank it's just easier to spot clean aspen.
Exactly like glass aquariums/terrariums. I'm only able to maintain good humidity for my garters because 1) they can shed perfectly a-ok with humidity under 20% and 2) my home is at a constant 50-60% and 40-50% during the winter. I'd still never trust my tropicals/sub-tropicals in one, I don't care how well-modded it is. Tubs are cheap, and PVC/custom looks 1,000x better than a gross glass tank.
Probably because most people have too low of humidity in their homes to properly accommodate a glass tank. Also because most people using glass tanks are newbies, and newbies usually know almost nothing about what it takes to maintain humidity.
Also, 99.99% of people do not make a single modification to their tanks like you have, and insist on using low-humidity bedding like paper towels, newspaper, or aspen.
I had a hard time keeping the humidity up in my 40gal glass tank up for a while. It was due to using a MVB and CHE at the same time. The MVB was providing enough heat, so I switched to MVB during the day and CHE at night.
Substrate is coconut fibre, sphagnum moss, and wood chips. Plus some leaves and live plants and a plastic lid tonight
I've got the opposite problem
The cage I got stuck with has a mesh top and the humidity in the house will bring it down to 40%. The only solution I've got on hand is the wet towel on top trick, cypress mulch, and the occasional misting
Never heard of MVB before, what exactly is that?
The garter tanks are about 11-16% humidity during the day when the heat lamp is on (during the winter), and around 40-50% during the night. During the summer, they're 25-30% when the heat lamp is on and 50-60%+ during the night when the lamp is off.
But since I have garters in the tanks, I don't really do anything for the humidity. Both garters have silky soft skin (aside from the bumpy keels on their scales; it's soft but bumpy if that makes sense?), and the non-albino eastern garter has a subtle iridescent sheen.
This is the best photo I have to show that iridescence, winter has kicked in so no outdoor pics and the sunlight isn't always bright. This is when he arrived, but he still retains the same amount of iridescence.
I admit I didn't think about that before posting.
I live in NC which is a fairly humid place to live.
Even now in the winter it's about 40% so boosting that up isn't a difficult thing to do.
>Wake up in really hot room and run over to check crested gecko terrarium
>Heater thermometer malfunctioned, terrarium thermometer reading at 87 degrees
>Spray down terrarium to lose some heat to evaporation and open windows to let in cold air to get to correct temperature
Christ, this morning was scary. I don't know how he survived. Do you think my gecko will have any lasting damage from thos event?
One time I accidentally left the day and night time lamp on in my bp enclosure and came back to the tank being over 120 degrees(the max thermometer temperature) and 10 percent humidity. I pulled him out so fast and ended up spraying him with my mister for a solid minute and a half. Probably one of the scariest moments of my life.
higher than that for extended periods you risk respiratory infections
and lower isnt good for sheds or hydration
If you can't get it just right, I'd err on the side of too low because you can always put it a humid hide.
I bought a vine from the pet store today to put in my ball's tank for some extra coverage and some color
Should I wash it all to remove the plastic smell or something?
Does that bother them at all?
60-70% myself, been keeping him this way for 3.5-4 years and no RI's. It's not the humidity itself that causes RI, it's wetness. Too low of humidity is more likely to cause an RI than too high of humidity (granted they're not also living in a swamp).
No condensation, no wet bedding, etc. and you can keep just about any species at much higher humidity than recommended. I would imagine desert species would not be able to be kept too much higher, but even they have access to areas with decent humidity in the wild.
How can I get my humidity up in my BP's enclosure? She doesn't care for moist hides.
I'm using a layer of aspen on top of a layer of fir, since she LOVES to dig.
I was thinking sphagnum moss.
I also have three bricks of dried up EcoEarth left.
I'd try the EcoEarth first, then maybe layer some sphagnum moss on top of it if that's not enough. If changing bedding doesn't work by itself, you may also have to limit air flow. Putting a large dish in there might work, too. As the water evaporates out of the bowl it will add humidity to the air, but it won't do much by itself so don't expect to just put a bigger water dish and be done with it. It adds humidity to an already well-established level of humidity, but won't do much if the enclosure is an arid desert beyond drying up in a few hours with no humidity benefits.
It's winter up here so the entire house is just dry. I do, however, have a humidifier going in the room the BP is housed in. Limiting air flow is not much of an issue; she's in a rack, not a tank.
I have leopard geckos and I keep them in paper towels. BPs are not burrowing species so perhaps simpler is better and I should just do paper towels for the whole enclosure, moist towels in her moist hide.
This is my first BP so I'm a bit out of my depth here.
If you're using a rack, it's pretty much guaranteed you're using belly heat. Which means you may not have all that much luck using EcoEarth, it tends to mold in belly heat set ups. Sphagnum moss not as much, but it still will mold fairly easily.
Unfortunately there's not much you can do in your set up, that you're not already doing.
Racks, due to their nature, do not allow for much wiggle room in husbandry, they pretty much completely rely on the room's environment. If the room's temp or humidity is off, then you'll have problems.
I don't have any other advice for you as I mainly use stand-alone tubs and vivariums, I don't use racks and don't plan to, so other than what's being said I can't help you. Maybe another anon that's familiar with racks will know, otherwise you may just have to wait out the dry months as is.
I'm a little anxious. Haven't seen my female gecko out and about in 2 days. 3 days ago, she didn't look so hot, was kind of gaunt and sluggish. We had an unexpected cold snap, and temps dipped really badly overnight in the tank (snake enclosure was fine, but gecko tank def got too cold). I know these guys are delicate, so I'm fearing the worst. I'm not going to tear apart the enclosure looking for her, so hopefully she'll just show herself at some point if she's alright.
How do you guys propose i use my non adherent t rex heating mat?
I got it super cheap but now i'm at a loss on how to use it, I can't just put it inside the enclosure.
It has a thermal regulator
Where did you get that log from? Here's my guy Big Lu.
Thinking about selling my setup with 2 beardies on craigslist. Yall think $300 is good?
Ive had them for maybe 3 yrs. The beardies are about adult size, a male citrus and a female idk what but she was about $200. They used to breed and give eggs pretty often but it hasn't happened lately.
Where do y'all get big tanks from? I just got a baby pixie today and I wanna go ahead and get him a big setup in case he turns out to be a male. I have a 20 gal long but I don't think he'll fit in it when he's an adult.
I always found that no-name\unknown pet stores have good prices on glass tanks but you'd have to physically go and check.
Heres a top view of the beardies cage
My LPS has some of those reptile/amphibian starter kits from ZooMed filled with shit I don't need and for the price they're asking I could get a Exoterra long and low 30x18x12 if I shopped online.
Other than that they have a bunch of fish tanks with a bunch of vertical space I don't need.
I could always bum it with a big plastic bin but it's hardly a display option.
Good to know actually. If I end up keeping them I'll consider rehousing but I'm trying to let them go.
I feed them dubias and crickets in a plastic tub to avoid that. Though I honestly think the risk of impaction decreases significantly with adults. They use their tongue to grab prey as opposed to striking and thrashing around. I also notice that the female likes to dig and burrow. Especially when it's breeding season, so there are benefits aside from the aesthetics.
Should have clarified that the deals I found were when they're selling unknown brands too. But you get what you pay for and quality might not be best.
Also a tub might not be a bad idea until a reptile show comes by in your area
Sand also wears down ligaments and causes arthritis. It can get into the eyes of your beardie and cause an infection. Reptiles are known for licking things, so en entire tank of loose substrate is a deathtrap.
I ended up doing a moist hide (tupperware with a sanded hole up top + sphagnum moss) and switching to paper towels. Humidity is holding steady at 45-50%, 60%+ inside the moist hide.
So I guess that's solved.
actually its a huge heavy plastic branch/rock thing I got from Petsmart like 14 years ago for a leopard gecko I had
It great though isn't it? She loves climbing on it.
Eventually though shes going to need bigger hides and then I'll have to take it out.
on a side note, I haven't seen her this active in a long time. She's flicking her tongue over every square inch of this new substrate
Has anyone experience with keeping Sceloporus Malachiticus?
Can I assume that their care is a mix between Bearded Dragons (active during day, need UV, 40°C Hot spot) and Leos (small, don't eat veggies)?
Is there anything I should especially look out for?
Really tempted to get one, but I want to hear some stories first before digging deeper through caresheets etc.
>Stealing my shitposts
I already own two Pacmen senpai.
Dude who is getting MBK here.
Will use this as substrate.
Not as ugly as Aspen, can be bought in bulk and is safe and healthy.
Everyone is happy now :)
I shitposted some banter that made absolutely no sense and was knee deep in satire about pixies being better.
No in is serious about it. No one cares. I have both and you should too. They're cool for different reasons.
I just got this for 20 dollars from a friend. He had a small frog for 12 years but it croaked a while back.
It's a 10 gallon. What can I keep in it?
My 50 gallon is behind it. It only has a crested gecko in it though. I'll get more if mines a female.
I bought a used 18 x 18 x 24 exo terra (pic related), it's in great condition, but I can't decide what to put in it. I have experience with a variety of reptiles and amphibians. I plan on getting a huge ass exo (36 x 18 x 36) in the near future so this could be a grow out, too.
Does anyone have any suggestions for unusual arboreals? What would you put in it? I kind of want a GTP that would later go in the big exo, but I'd still want suggestions for what to use this one for afterwards. Could a GTP baby be okay in this size tank for a while from people's experience?
I know it can be hard to hold the heat in glass enclosures but I'll probably line 3 walls with cork bark for some extra insulation regardless of what I put in.
Anole needs more vertical space than a 10g.
Maybe a thread snake? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RXsyjqutrw
Just put a newt in in or some shit. Fuck that. It's too small. Or get another 10g and put an extender between them like I did.
Relief! The female l. williamsi showed up again basking on one of the top branches today, looking much healthier. I don't fucking know wtf she was doing (def not laying) but I'm glad she's safe and healthy.
You should do that with it and use it to breed roaches. Roaches are the best.
Fed my ball python for the first time in her newly decked out tank
She like to drag the rat back into her hide to eat it there for whatever reason, but it like some fucking jurassic park shit now
>give her rat
>she wraps it
>i sit down because she doesn't like me watching her eat
>look up to see the vines in her tank tank moving around coupled with a dragging sound
I didn't say he would, just giving him an idea of how small something would have to be to be comfortable in a 10g tank.
Perhaps, definitely could be why she looked so cruddy before. They also sometimes just become terrified when someone walks by, drop off a branch to the bottom, and hide somewhere in the cork rounds until they arbitrarily decide it's safe again.
Got my new Carpet python Yesterday, Its name is Monty
He has some quirky behaviors
Enclosure is 4x2x2 and I'm still finishing it up, getting more branches, hides and some actual aspen for it instead of newspaper.
Does this look like shell rot? I've been dry docking and giving betadine baths because I'm 99% sure it's early shell rot, but I wold appreciate a second opinion
I was gifted one of these, and I was wondering what can I keep in it, reptile-wise?
I know it's fairly small, so I was thinking of going the insect way too (mantis, probably)
Yeah I'd say mantis or even a pinktoe tarantula or some other arboreal tarantula specie. Maybe like one small tree frog, but I'm no expert on the caging requirements for tree frogs, either.
So are there any next level clean up crews available?
I feel my springtails are being munched by my juvenile crestie because I keep seeing less and less of them, I've heard that millipedes can be use (which I think would be dope as fuck) but I'd rather a smaller species.
So long story short, cool and unorthodox insects for a clean up crew?
white dwarf woodlice work well
I've seen them used fairly often, I kinda want to go with something unusual.
I have been looking into isopods, but my main concern with updating the clean up crew is that I have a fair amount of sphagnum and I'm not sure how it'll effect them.
Yeah i'm on it, Couldn't go to the store today so i had to get something so he could at least hide
its cute face
So what's the word on millipedes?
I'm pretty interested in introducing them into the habitat, everything other than the actual viv and arboreal feeding ledge is living so I'm not sure how they'd effect that.
Tropical millipedes can discharge poisonous secretions, so I guess you'd either have to get local harmless millipedes or the ones that are so big that the gecko won't attempt eating them.
Millipedes usually prefer dead leafs and fruit, so I don't think they would harm your plants as long as they have enough other stuff to eat.
If I could make a recommendation, dont bother with commercial hides lol. I know it may not look as clean or neat.. but my Kingsnake has a Granola bar and a papertowel tube at his hot end, and a light bulb box at his coldside. Snakes dont know any different between a nice cozy carboard based box and a $200 elite level commercial hide.
alright man, great. Im really jealous of how pretty your snake is. I always make a weekly feeding post, I think if all the snek owners did this thread would get very lively. Best of luck with your snake, its beautiful.
yep thats my tube dude! He is hiding after a little snack I gave him because I had a puny frozen pinkie from petco. Heck yeah, weekly feedings! I'd love to see this thread be a powerhouse of /an/ we could probably get infos in the OP sooner or later.
My postings would be sparse, I only have my two garters eating weekly, the others either eat every 2 weeks or every 5 weeks. And I rarely ever take pictures because I have horrid lighting.
But, I could post updated weights for everyone, what they're currently eating, and how often. If I do that, I'd only do it monthly unless people were interested in seeing weekly weight gains.
>that evil cat staring from the couch
Were you guys ever scared of snakes?
I got my corn snake full knowing i would at the start be afraid of it, that was about an year ago and now he's the chillest pet i ever had and i love handling it.
I just got a Largeish python as well and I'm pretty confident while handling it.
Having snakes defeated my slight fear of snakes
Since it's impossible to get this in my country, I just bought another brand "barks"
The problem is that the bag is not in the best conditions, it has a few small holes on it so I'm affraid of possible mites or something. How could I desinfect it?
Muh King snake is being super cheeky today. He is running around and rubbing and trying to climb out his container. Of course when you google "snake rubbing face on tank", you get results of "RI, near death snake". Someone please reassure me my king is just being cheeky..
qt. never have a i ever encountered a crestie who didn't adore a paper towel roll. pro tip: take a suction cup soap dish that has holes in it and zip-tie a half a piece of paper towel roll to it, then stick to the side of the tank. Gecko will start using it to sleep in within a week, fucking guaranteed.
Ok for starters tha lack of climbing material is insulting, beardies love to climb so try to get some stuff that would go higher than an inch off the ground
Also you absolutely need a hide or two, realistically you really only need one for the hot side of the tank so the beardie can hide in it if its too hot
Also the uvb bulb should be lighting up bith sides of the tank not just one, partly because theu need 12 hours of uvb to be healthy and also having the darker side of the tank be the hottest just doesn't make sense
As for tank size, as long these two are fully grown and you let get exercise outside of the tank than you really dont need much bigger, but a larger tank is recommended
Also the only sand that is unsafe for beardies is that calcium sand sold in pet stores, its much finer than normal playground sand (which all the breeders i know recommend, if youre going for a natural look of the tank) which means if it gets ingested alot of it at one time will as opposed to playground sand which is larger and if it is accidentally ingested it normally passes through safely due to the fact that it will clumb together in the stomach like calcium sand does
Also beardies love digging so let em