Rosy barb edition
previous thread >>2026437
Discuss anything aquarium related here, including inhabitants, decor and issues.
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Feel free to ask questions but know that there are a lot of resources out there that could answer your question a lot faster and accurately than /an/.
Make sure to include these things in your post before asking because we can't help you if we don't have the full picture:
-any and all inhabitants + how long you've had them
>How to cycle your tank:
http://pastebin.com/x4WnB0Ah (embed) (embed)
>General aquarium care sheets - http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/
>Livestock and plants for sale - http://www.liveaquaria.com/
What are the minimum care requirements for these?
Would you reseal this? It can hold water now but what about longterm? Trying to "fix" a used aquarium I got.
>Finally getting my 10 Kuhli Loaches on Tuesday
I've been waiting since December get these, I'm ain't gonna fucking wait for the LFS to get them in the middle of January. Hopefully the other LFS I'm making a 1.5 hour drive to doesn't have them in shit condition to make me reconsider
My tank will soon be a writhing pile of shrimp and kuhlis
depends on you.
I keep saltwater, there's no way I'd trust that tank for saltwater.
but it would probably be fine as is for a while with freshwater. You're always going to be worrying about it though. It's probably best to at least reseal it.
depends on the size as well. Small tanks really aren't that expensive, you could just toss that and buy a new one. It's up to you.
>not living in Japan prefecture
>not having 5+ LFS that stock the highest level tech within 20km
>not having access to rare fishes and plants
Do you guys even care about being tank heads or nah
I'm looking for an alternative to dwarf cichlids such as rams. Looking for a colourful, small and peaceful pairing species that easily breeds in the home aquarium. So far, I'm interested in peacock gobies, but I was wondering if there was any other species that could fill a similar role. Any suggestions?
Any Canadians know any good sites like liveaquaria that actually do ship to Canada? All I'm finding are sketchy websites that look like my first website I made in grade 9. Why do we always have to get fucked in the ass for shit like this..
I can order though my LFS' but I feel like they're going to hike up the profit margin like motherfuckers.
do a 20% water change each week.
it probably wouldn't hurt to test for ammonia and use a water conditioner that detoxifies ammonia and nitrite for the first couple months.
most fish available on the market can survive cycling just fine.
I had a single rosy barb that lived for 5 years under the worst possible conditions. Kept it in a sealed pot in my yard with, a few other standard goldfish, and would only check on them every 2 weeks or so to pull out the dead ones. They all died except the rosy barb which cost me 60 cents.Best investment of my life.
I don't know of any canadian based ones, except for a jellyfish auction i saw on aquabid. So, shipping is probably going to be as high as whatever you lfs markup is.
You might try the guy at selectaquatics.com. I have no idea if he can ship to Canada, but if you are looking for something rare he might know someone who does.
Rasbora espei are great top swimming fish that tightly school and remain fairly small. If you had sand, I'd recommend pygmy cories.
tetra would be fine, but I find them boring.
>that one fish that never eats
>that one fish that eats everything
Also, my glass catfish are idiots. When it's feeding time they swarm the top, and when the food falls to the middle they continue swarming the top.
>tfw finally have traces of nitrite after 8 fucking days of fishless cycling
What are you basing this on? Like lots of organisms, this bacteria's population is depended on how much food there is. They will literally die down or reproduce at a rate that will correspond to the amount of food available.
That's exactly why you buy a bit of fish at a time to let the bacteria catch up. If you buy too much, you'll get a spike and the fish might die.
Guy who actually keeps fish in his tanks here, just ignore them. Let the tank run for a few days on bacteria boost and plants and then just dump in your fish like a normal person. I've started three freshwater tanks and never lost a single fish this way. Saltwater can be a bit more complex because of how sensitive the damned corals are.
It's not like there's a small and finite number of people with access to 4chan.
Not him, but it's supposedly "common" for the water to turn cloudy during or shortly after cycling. I say supposedly because it's never happened to me before on any of the 20+ tanks I've had. Even if it does, it's harmless and it should clear up on its own within a week.
How many fish tanks can I have in my room before being one of those weird fish people?
I have a 70l planted aquarium for fish and amanos and a 20l for just RCS.
I'm considering picking up another 20l to breed a few round of amanos but eventually having crystal shrimp in there.
>I got a new angel 2 days ago, didn't quarantine it
>today it had long white and beady poo
>I immediately quarantine paranoid it's parasites, it but the poo fell somewhere in the main tank
What do you think guys, are my fish doomed? The new fish has been eating and seems completely normal aside from the fact that it has red gills.
If they do have parasites, would mixing garlic with their normal food fix them
> Red gills
CLEAN YOUR TANK RIGHT NOW and pray to aquabuddah your fish don't catch it. Parasites can hide for months before showing up and bacterial diseases can be dormant for months, too. Don't add fish without quarantine.
Also get actual parasite treatment and/or return the sick fish. Garlic is NOT a treatment, it's mixed with food and meds to get the fish to ignore how bitter the meds taste. It's like feeding a dog a pill coated in cheese. The cheese isn't the medicine, the pill is.
How do I get rid of snails in my external filter? Don't even know how they got there, never had any in my tank.
who cares what normies think
My goal is to reach weebey mode
Do fish stores usually like to price match when ordering through them? I would rather drive 20 minute roundtrips than around 90 minutes. It's just that my local fish store, which is more of a pet store but they have a nice fish department, is a bit more pricey on their fish.
I just feel like I would come across as a shitty person if I said "well those guys sell them at $__, can you match that?". In my case it's a large dedicated fish store with many others across the country vs a small private pet store..
Hello my brother bought me a fish and put it in my salt water tank. Is it a salt water fish? Can't find anything.
Treat some tap water with anti-chorine, put the fish in it and pray. Also tell your retarded little brother to leave your tank alone and that this poor fish is now probably going to die. be MEAN about it. Yes, he will cry, but that's the point. You need to drive home that HE hurt an innocent creature by doing this and that he needs to leave your fish alone so that he doesn't hurt other innocent creatures (ie: the fish in your tank).
If he whines that he was just trying to help, do NOT let up. Explain that he can help by doing things with you and asking to do them first. Doing things WITHOUT you first saying it's OK results in dead fish.
Jesus man I hope this is a troll
Ugh god that was uncalled for
Hey guys I only just started with the hobby and have finished setting up my first tank. It's only 17 litres but it's planted and is currently stocked with 11 White Cloud Mountain minnows (6 gold, 5 regular). The PH has just reached acctable levels for cherry shrimp (6.8 ph). So I want to know, is is set up actually ok for shrimp?
Excuse the water on the glass and the cloudy water, this is directly after new cycled gravel was put in and I did a water change.
That's not an excuse to be stupid or injure your very expensive and delicate saltwater fish. Cerebral palsy affects motor skills, babying him because he has it effects his brain. In short if he's treated like a stupid baby who needs to be coddled forever he will stay a stupid baby who needs to be coddled forever.
Also put a plexiglass lid on top of your tank and lock it. You can glue or cold weld the latches for the lock. Have some air holes on the FAR SIDE of the lid so he can't reach in but air still circulates. That will help keep him out permanently and will also keep out meddling moms and other junk that you do NOT want messing with your fish. Hide the key and don't tell anyone where it is.
Crap diagram attached should help you get the idea of what I mean by a locking lid.
They need lots of oxygen and prefer fast water, but other than that they're pretty normal. Set up an air stone, make your filter create as hard a stream as you can, and feed them algae wafers.
Family owned stores in general don't price match.
>I just feel like I would come across as a shitty person if I said "well those guys sell them at $__, can you match that?"
Yeah, sounds about right.
>your water is so hard that it's above the recommended hardness for FUCKING CICHLIDS
Is it time to buy an RO machine? My water hardness has been a plague when trying to grow plants hydroponically and now it's abck to haunt me in my attempt at fishkeeping. So tired of this shit.
How long have you had the tank up and running?
What is the general hardness and temp of the tank?
I can already tell you common dwarf shrimp such as RCS and CRS will most likely not breed prolifically in that tank.
Tank has been running for 2 months, usual temperature is 22-26 degrees. I can't get a precise reading on hardness but it's very middle of the road from what the colour chart tells me.
You'll be alright. If you vacuum the gravel, you'll be avoiding the biggest concern which is a nutrient spike from the relatively pristine conditions more shrimpmemers tend to keep them in.
The interesting bit about your tank is that your anacharis probably doesn't handle the nitrates as quickly as a fistful of java moss, so that's why cleaning would be particularly important in your case.
Thanks for the advice, I already do twice weekly water changes would that be enough? There are smaller ground covering plants in the tank it's just difficult to see them. Would you recommend any other plants/objects for the tank?
11 white clouds is a lot for a 17 liter tank. The tank's all right for shrimp, but the fish will probably attack babbys. Moss will help give them cover in addition to giving them something to pick over.
You should really get some kind of plant light.
You might slow down a bit as the tank matures, the plants settle in, and even the wood become saturated with beneficial surface bacteria.
The more plants, the better, as they can help with general water hardness. That becomes an issue when you have porous structures such as wood in the tank that will naturally filter calcium molecules from the water that the shrimp will need for successful molts. However, you already have something to remedy that - the shells you've dropped in will slowly leech carbonates into the water that will replace what is taken up by the wood.
The only note would be too high of a general water hardness over time - too many shells and unfinished stones (aq. gravel is always washed and polished and sealed with a thin acrylic that stops it from affecting water chemistry.) Water that is too hard will make it difficult for the shrimp to molt and will claim any potential shrimplets, to say the least.
Also, get more plants! Shrimp love them. Since water chemistry is such a big deal, you'll want to get your fish on a "two feed, one fast" schedule. The shrimp will clean up as many remains and detritus as possible and will still have food thanks to the plants that host nearly microscopic creatures that the shrimp eat. More cover will also give them the confidence to breed because your minnows will definitely eat anything the size of a newly hatched shrimp. (A more open setup such as yours would be more than enough in a shrimp only tank.)
Not really necessary.
Intense lighting will melt anacharis.
Both java and anacharis will explode in his tank in six months, if he slows the water changes to once a week and manages to get feeding just right.
I'm pretty sure everyone recommends java moss. The thing is that it doesn't particularly appreciate being planted and will just sit in a clump until it attaches itself to something. You might want to take some cotton thread and tie a massive clump onto your wood. It's what I did, sans the thread.
Yeah I put the shells in for hardness to counteract the wood, which I put in for lowering ph (I had real issues with ph at first). I don't mind if the fish pick off the occasional shrimp fry all I want is a sustainable population.
How many shrimp would you recommend to start with? I really wanted them for help with cleaning and waste removal of Algea and stuff, bonus points for being nice looking.
What other plants are good? I've heard Java (moss and fern) are good for cold water such as this, any other suggestions? I just want plants for the substrate now as the elodea fills the upper space quite well.
The thing is that cold, low light plants are such for a reason - they often inhabit the lower zones of the a lake's ecosystem, so the ones that do well with planting usually grow tall and will often serve better as background plants.
I'm not entirely sure what else might work, but look into strapping on an anubias on the wood and having a larger hunk of moss fill out the lower bits of your tank.
The shrimp will do a good job of removing bacterial blooms and brown algaes, but don't expect them to take care of hair algae.
>will just sit in a clump until it attaches itself to something.
Does it attach to things? I had a clump for about two months tied to my driftwood without attaching, and I've read some anons say it does and some say it doesn't. What's your experience with it?
I never said intense lighting, just something. Very few plants will stay alive in just ambient lighting (though java moss is one), and they're very unlikely to "explode."
A simple 9-13 watt daylight cfl in a desk lamp would be plenty.
6-10 shrimp is enough to start with for a shrimp only tank, but you may want to get closer to a dozen on account of the fish.
Cryptocoryne species will survive in very low light and most stay 3-4 inches tall. Dwarf saggitaria grows more quickly, but you'll need some kind of light for it.
If it is too tightly bound, the plant will melt around the ties. Once it is loosened and there is current, its longer strands will send grabby grabby rhizoids along the surface of the wood that are surprisingly powerful in currents, but will not stand against a clumsy human hand if it is, say, smooth stone or wood.
Is it just me or is this really difficult to get results? I'm putting normal values at 20gallons and I'm barely getting any fish.
Oh cool, I saw my LFS had a water trumpet in anyway so ill get that.
I have to thank you guys for all your advice, this is my first proper fish tank and u want to do well with it before I move into larger more elaborate projects.
Eventually I'd like a very large salt water, a large freshwater community tank, a large planted discuss tank and a few other things, if all goes well here what should I start on next?
I was told that I could simply steer a stick through the sand every water change or something so it doesn't form deadly gas pockets.
I just find it weird that they suggest gravel over sand for corys. Sand is the best substrate they can have.
Huh, never heard it called that.
The large freshwater community would be the logical next step, but with enough research and diligence, you can really do anything you want.
That web app is weird as hell. The questions it's asking don't really make any sense. I'd use Aqadvisor over that.
>create anaerobic areas
Theoretically possible, but not really likely unless you're filling half the tank with sand.
Any kind of bottom dwelling species will keep it sifted well enough. If you're really worried about pockets, MTS are good for aerating substrate.
Yeah. It's just that aqadvisor is a little less accessible when it shows you available fish. You have to google everything. Do you know any good websites simply to look at aquarium fish and brainstorm?
>The fact that it is so dense is really the worst thing about it.
This. Sand isn't that bad, honestly. Just add live plants, don't overfeed, and clean your tank your nutrients/bacteria will stay in check. I have never seen a tank die off from sand.
What the heck do you guys use? I was under the impression that sand is the unsung hero of aquarium substrates. I already have sand in this cycling 20g. Don't really feel like restarting.. It's going to be planted in a few months, though.. If that makes it any better.
Not sure about them but I've used blasting grit and pool filter sand in both planted and non planted tanks for years without problems. You only run into compaction problems if you use super fine shit like play sand.
That's because sand is the unsung aquarium hero. I just use regular aquarium sand. Really, you're fine with sand. Sand is the best for bottom dwelling fish though they can uproot plants so add them after the plants are well established. So plants + upper level first go first, then loaches/cories,ect.
Yeah it's probably a country based thing with the names.
I will probably go for the community because the community>discus>salt seems like natural progression in difficulty anyway. On the topic is
209 litres big enough for 2-3 large shoals of tetras/rasboras and a few other fish like corys, guppies, small gouramis etc?
I think most people here keeping planted tanks use plant substrates like Aquasoil or EcoComplete. Some use potting soil with a gravel cap.
Sand is a dirt cheap aquarium substrate that looks decent. I haven't heard any other praise for it. In my experience it works fine for low-nutrient plants, but silica sand (like pool filter or play sand) seems to cause aggressive and chronic diatom blooms.
For non-planted tanks, yes. Absolutely.
>My personal favorite is large river rocks.
But then you have to clean under them...
Discus difficulty depends almost entirely on the pH and hardness of your tap water.
>On the topic is 209 litres big enough for 2-3 large shoals of tetras/rasboras and a few other fish like corys, guppies, small gouramis etc?
Yes. You'll get a more natural look and happier fish if you stick to fewer species. For a big tank, a simple sort of checklist would be to get a top-, mid-, and bottom-dweller, a clean up crew, then some kind of centerpiece fish.
>Discus difficulty depends almost entirely on the pH and hardness of your tap water.
I can confirm that. When I first started out and knew nothing I kept a discus in my 70 litre tank for years without any special effort. Turned out the tap water was pretty much perfect right out of the tap. I didn't even dechlorinate back then. Little bugger lived like that for six years before I moved and got him a properly sized tank.
the reality is they aren't particularly difficult to keep, especially the tank bred blue strains.
they adapt to hard water quite nicely. They won't breed in hard water is all.
their reputation for difficulty comes from those heady and ancient times in the late 1980's when Duran Duran rocked the world and all the discus you could buy were wild caught.
I'm an aquasoil anon. Thought I would put in my 2 cents:
Even the newest, best aquasoil is just baked (terrestrial) dirt that breaks down over time. I'm not convinced my plants are growing at a rate that justifies the layer of brown filth at the bottom of my tank. If you think about it, most aquatic substrate in nature is either sand, clay, or disgusting mud. This stuff would be disgusting mud, except it was "meant to be" at the surface. I'm not even certain my microbes know what to do with the stuff because it doesn't break down evenly or form that fine muck/silt that you associate with fertile river substrate. It's just bad.
This stuff is a fad. Use sand like a decent person.
>One of my big female RCS looks like it just molted
>Is trying to escape every other shrimp in the tank
>See one of them overpower it and roll it over looking like it was trying to eat it
>Female tries to get away while the other one rides her back
Is this what shrimp sex looks like?
What sort of test kit should I be using?
I'm seeing the 5-in-1 strips and various kits with test tubes and the like.
If I assume each kit works as good as the others, I've got red/green colour blindness.... are any of the kits better in that regard?
I don't know if color blindness should even matter because whatever color pops up will correspond to the same colors you already see on the reference sheet. But I'm not really knowledgeable when it comes to color blindness so I might be spouting utter nonsense.
Regardless, don't use paper strip kits. Use the color drop ones.
Sounds about right. Here's an old video of some thirsty amanos.
Have you taken a look at the results sheets before? Most strip tests use green for ammonia and pink for nitrite and nitrate. The API liquid kit uses yellow/green for ammonia, blue/purple for nitrite, and yellow/orange for nitrate. If you can read the result sheet you should be fine.
The liquid kit with the vials is much more accurate and far cheaper per test in the long run, but it takes longer to get a result (5-7 minutes vs. 30 seconds). The strips can be "good enough" if you're just doing a basic freshwater setup, but the liquid kit will give you better results.
Just added two goldfish to my 125 litre tank and one has been fine, but the other one has a clasped fin and sometimes goes mental opening and closing the fin and swimming backwards and forwards. Getting a water testing kit on Saturday but does anyone know what's wrong with my fish? Pic related the shubunkin is the sick one
I posted on /aq/ before regarding a 35g I got for free. It's pretty beat up so I'm using it as aquarium building practice. Got nothing to lose if I fuck up.
Do glass aquariums use standard glass? I just got off the phone with my local glass shop and got a quote for the panels I want to replace. It's like 75% cheaper than what I thought it would cost in the first place.
Also, is 100% silicone truly 100% silicone? I bought one of those bottles that need those squeeze trigger things. Bought it at a hardware store.
Just tested the water (found some ph testers) and it was 6.4, I have plecos, tetras, and a khuli loach. I read that goldfish are best in 7.2-7.6. Is this the reason for the clasped fin?
I believe most manufacturers use tempered glass for the bottom pane and normal glass for the side panes.
Means it has mold inhibitors and fungicides and whatnot. No good. The easiest way is to look for one that specifically says it's aquarium safe. People have mentioned having success with various brands of clear silicone that don't have the "anti-mildew" warning, but it's always going to be a calculated risk.
Fish is probably sick. Did you remember to quarantine?
Get the "food safe" silicone for best results. Silicone often has various metals in it that won't harm humans but might bug your fish. That said, I have heard of people using the clear shower caulking 100% silicone with little issue, especially once the tank had water in it for awhile and went through some water changes.
it's a albino walking catfish if i remember correctly
GE Silicone II is the usual choice.
a lot of people are now building tanks with an RTV sealant, which is stronger. Not really necessary for the average application though. Commercial tanks are way overengineered to begin with. They don't require strengthening.
also just a couple tips:
razor the old sealant off completely. Use a razor to cut the tank apart.
tape your seams off where you don't want sealant so you get a good clean line.
wipe the hell out of the glass with rubbing alcohol before sealing.
if you don't have a jig to set up the tank, have a friend help you hold sides in place while you tape the edges together. Duct tape will hold the whole damn thing together while the sealant cures.
it needs to go together fast, you want all the sides glued up in about 30 minutes or less. The silicone from the first side needs to still be wet when the last side goes into place.
practice with your friend what you're each going to do before you do it. Mostly you just need them to hold the first two sides in place while you tape them.
if you're using tape to hold it together, the tape goes on the outside of the tank (of course).
also the tape on the bottom needs to be placed before you start. So you'll have your bottom glass with like three strips of duct tape sticking out of each side underneath, sticky side up. ready to stick to the sides.
FUCK. JUST FUCK. My blade got stuck in angle where I just had to carefully wiggle it out twice, and both of these times, this happened. This is the worst one, the other one is a little "better". Is this still safe or is this whole project ready to go down the toilet?
Using the API test kit, it took 23 drops to change color. I also checked on my fairly cheap electronic ppm pen and it says 480 ppm which kind of corresponds to that number of drops. I remember having to deal with so many minerals clogging up the roots of my plants. They never had healthy roots.
I'm seriously considering mixing in RO water with my tap. It's just going to be a bitch to manage when I finally get my 75 gallon setup. I don't know how I'm going to do it.
Damn, RO might be the best way to go. It won't be much of a hassle if you buy an RO unit yourself. There's a bit upfront cost, but you can just have a 50 gallon drum filled with RO water to put in during water changes.
Do you have a good LFS or any breeders in your area? I'd talk to them and see what they do. Fish are adaptable. They might be able to give you some locally-bred species that will thrive.
can't really tell from the pic.
if there's any cracks at all the panel is trash. chips are kinda up to you. If there's chips on both the inside and outside the panel is trash though.
small chips with no cracks on one side of the glass might be ok.
I have an old house that uses a well. It's not connected to the city water. That's why in all the fish stores I visit, the staff flip-over backwards when I mention my water hardness. So I'm a little fucked.
I think I'm just going to get a new sheet of glass. I'd rather pay ~$15 once than risk 35 gallons of water all over the floor.
I'm thinking maybe cutting up this panel to make a smaller aquarium. Maybe a quarantine tank. Something that doesn't need to look good.
That's more or less the same thing I was dealing with when I lived at my boyfriend's house. They were on a well. We had an axolotl for a couple of weeks in it just fine, but we ended up deciding to just get tap water from a friend's hose for water changes. That was for a 20 gallon, though, nothing really big.
Would the RO filters get clogged/full really quickly running water something like that?
do you still have to cut the other panels loose?
I've found it works best to cut all the inside sealant I can off, then pull the panel away from the others hard while cutting from the top down on both sides at the same time.
Like pull the panel hard towards me and make small cuts into the seams of both sides. Eventually the whole panel pulls free and if you're careful and lucky you don't chip the glass. You're pulling it apart while you're cutting it.
>I'm thinking maybe cutting up this panel to make a smaller aquarium
That would work well. Were you going to try cutting it yourself or have it done at the glass shop? I assume you know enough math and geometry to play with the dimensions and get a good gallon-age out of it.
Yeah, they're all loose. Everything's good. How do you remove the sealant for good, though? I mean it's really, REALLY stuck on the glass. I could do it with a razor but it would take so much time. Is there something safe I can rub over it?
I'm going to try myself for the experience. Glass cutters only cost ~5 bucks and you get 10-15 cuts out of them apparently.
> I assume you know enough math
Heh! I'll play around with this thing, I think. http://www.theaquatools.com/building-your-aquarium
my tank looks like someone jizzed in it every single time I do a water change. these things slow down and pretty much disappear after time but theyre always back 10 minutes after a water change. wtf are they?
on a side note:
my rcs females seems to have a "crust" on top of its body. can anyone tell me what it is?
Ill have a picture later.
>Babby shrimplets spotted hiding in moss and on glass surface
It begins, there's like 8-10 berried females
I did find two smaller shrimp corpses though, haven't seen any deaths for nearly 3+ weeks. Hopefully everything is OK
I wanted to do a Pico Reef tank.
I have seen a lot of people doing this with nothing more than lights and a power head.
My question is, how would you maintain good chemical balance without the use of a protein skimmer?
I've tried looking around, but I wasn't able to find any sort of definitive guide for maintaining pico reefs. Most information I have found is only a portion of what I need at best.
I've read that some people simply do more frequent water replacements.
if you don't feed a lot, you don't need a skimmer.
the bacteria in the liverock are responsible for nitrification and denitrification.
you will have a longer period with algae in the beginning but the nutrients will get absorbed by invertebrates and coral over time.
A coral tank without fish or food will go into a state of limitation.
I have an 18l tank with light and pump running for 4 years now and i have to feed my hermit and shrimps from time to time because there are almost no algae.
I just change 1l a month.
I keep sps, lps, anemona and softcoral.
Just now. Excuse the shitty looking sand. looks like shit with the lights off.
i feed a quarter of a 1cm diameter foodchip for freshwater catfish every two days to my hermit crab.
it is green and consists of:
vegetables, cereal, crustaceans, algae, fish and yeast.
the coral get a little Tropc Marin pro-coral-zooton every week
Zebras are air-breathing mammals that need a few acres of space, a 125L tank won't do.
Kuhli loaches need schools of 5+
4 common plecos are way too much
Goldfish are carp which grow huge and need cold water
Yes, nice b8, 7/8. Got me to reply.
I got this tank off a friend who was moving, not b8 m8. How do I salvage this tank then, because they all look happy except the zebra fish, the tank is at 24 degrees which he told me was fine for them all btw
It's been a week since my Oscar has eaten. He gets excited when he sees me but won't eat. My other Oscar eats and my jack. Water is fine. He just won't eat. No sickness, no parasites, nothing. He just stopped. No pellets, flake, or frozen.
It's almost certainly some kind of Aponogeton. I can't find a species that looks exactly like that, but maybe distachyos or satarensis. Or it could be some bastard hybrid. Post more pics if it sends out flower stalks.
Most Aponogeton grow explosively for about 6-9 months, growing stems 2-5 ft long, then die back, go dormant, and eventually die unless allowed to rest.
Yeah they're at about 19 inches long at the moment. What do you mean by rest?
Also this is another I can't remember the name of. I think it was wynd something.
>What do you mean by rest?
When the leaves have mostly died back, cut the rest off, dig up the bulb, and put it in a plastic bag along with some damp paper towels.
>Also this is another I can't remember the name of.
Okay thank you. Yes! That's what it is thank you again kind anon.
I know your pain.
I tried RO many years ago, but the filters get clogged almost instantly. Granted, the well itself has three different filters on in to try to sift out the larger stuff, but I still have problems.
See if a close neighbor has a deeper well, they usually produce much friendlier water.
Anyway; time, never doing water changes, and a deep substrate bed (or some other method of denitrification if no plants) have worked for me. Some plants (can look up species if you want) did eventually stop dying on me after awhile, and I use rainwater to top off.
My saltwater tank went through this weird phase where much of the hardness literally precipitated out of the water, so if you have a cheap way to mess with your pH that might be worth a try.
Oh, shit mang. I'm in sorta the same position after I decided to take care of my cousin's "Tank", so I'll stop calling b8.
Give away the plecos, or put them in a pond if you live in the right climate
Give away the goldfish, or put them in a pond if you know anyone who has one
If you can't find someone who will take them off your hands, ask all of your local LFSs, some will usually take them.
What type of loaches are they? Clowns?
By zebras, you mean zebra danios right? These are actually pretty coldwater, but they do fine in warmer water.
Buy 4 more kuhli loaches.
Are you sure they are common plecos? Not bristlenoses or anything? I doubt anyone has the levels of stupidity to buy four of the largest aquarium fish available to purchase.
I have a male Bolivian ram and was thinking about getting more. Should I get one female, two females, or one male and two females? Would any one of those be more or less likely to cause issues with aggression or problems pairing? And am I likely to have trouble with my dude being territorial to the newbies?
That mouth gives me shivers, ugh...
Get a red eye puffers are pretty weird.
Hey everyone, I'm the guy with the funky vampire shrimp from last thread. I think I've identified her as a Sulawesi Fan Shrimp. Could someone with some knowledge of this stuff confirm my suspicion?
It's a bit unfortunate since I keep cichlids and a vampire shrimp would be big enough that they won't pick on it, but the Sulawesi shrimp don't get big enough. Guess I'll keep her with the tetras for now.
Of course I forget my pic,despite spending a few hours in Photoshop on it...
>Housemates keep turning the heating on and off
>Temp of aquarium fluctuates between 23 and 25 degrees
>Lost 2 shrimp last night
How do you go about picking corals and anemone for a Pico environment like this? Obviously you need compatible species, but are there any specific species or traits that you should avoid or want?
Do I need a special brand of cuttlebone or so? I just bought a cheap one that looks like it came right out of the squid, but it smells a bit odd. Do I just drop the whole thing in, too? I've got amano shrimp, a pair of convict cichlids and a school of tetras, will it alter the water too much for them?
I saw some weather loaches with awesome spots at my LFS. I was just about to buy one when I noticed all the goldfish in the tank had ich. Shitty LFS.
Here is my loach.
Getting a sponge filter set up is super affordable. Only possible downside to an air pump is how sensitive you are to background noise, where you tank is, and how much white noise there is to help drown it out. The hum of the pump + the bubbling of water gets on my nerves, personally, but I'm an autist.
Just got a new camera. Feels good to be able to take pictures on something other than my phone. Obviously I'm not great at it yet and I need to get a lens better suited for aquarium photography, but it's still fun.
You could just heat the tank to 25 to avoid the fluctuations.
If you already have an air pump, then get a sponge filter. If you don't, you might as well just get a small filter like a Cascade 20 or Azoo Mignon 60. Or those cheap internal ones on eBay.
>Getting a sponge filter set up is super affordable
Everyone always says this, but by the time you buy the sponge, the tubing, and the air pump, it costs just as much or more than a power filter.
Hey guys does this sound like gill flukes?
One fish has red gills and white beady poop. Another fish has been scratching against plants, and also has white poop but it looks slightly different. All the fish are eating and behaving normally aside from this.
The way I clean substrate is by putting it in a bucket, putting the bucket in my shower, and submerging the shower head at the bottom of the bucket. The remaining salt should dissolve into the water and pour out.
Don't worry too much though, a tiny bit of salt in a freshwater tank isn't going to kill your fish, and each water change will clean out a bit more of it.
In that case I'd empty the tank, then fill it with new water, leave the lights off, and do a water change or two to get rid of the salt. Leave it in complete darkness until the algae is dead.
What kind of fish is this? Bought this set up a few days ago and this is the only fish. Guy said he just showed up one day. This is about the best pic I can get as my phone freaks him out.
Hey guys, setting up a 55 gallon planted aquarium, and need some help with lighting. I currently have a 20 gallon planted and it's doing fair.
What do you guys suggest for 55 gallon freshwater lighting?
I have a low light dirted 55 gallon with crypts, vallisneria, and anubias. I'm just using a shoplight that holds two 4ft t8 bulbs. I'm currently using Aqueon full spectrum daylight bulbs, but previously I used 6500k bulbs I got at Home Depot. My plants are doing very well. I trim the vallisneria about once every couple weeks, and I remove newly sprouted crypts probably once a month or so.
>Don't have any shrimp die for ages
>Start feeding them this every day for 3 days to increase breeding
>Lots of shrimp fucking starts happening
>3 shrimp die
Wtf? Is this shit bad for shrimps or something?
I suggest some low light LEDs, try the Finnex Stingray 48"
The Current Satellite Freshwater LED+ is another more expensive option, brings your PAR to the high end of low lighting/low end of medium lighting. I have it on a slightly dimmer option on my 40 breeder and it's great
I had some snails worms in my tank that I think came in from plants. I put some fungus killer, which has copper, in and that killed all the invertebrates. Don't put in a shit ton, because the copper can hurt plants too and other invertebrates you may want. I've heard of people keeping some pennies or copper sheets in their filters, but I've never tried that.
I posted a few threads back about a similar incident.
>set up 55g
>local aquarium society auction
>buy dozens of plants, no fish
>plant the fuck out of the tank
>2 weeks later
>playing ps4 next to aquarium
>there's something swimming in the aquarium
Now I have a corydoras aeneus in my tank. It must have been an egg on one of the plants, or perhaps a tiny baby in one of the plant packages I bought.
Found out one of my lotls was male a couple weeks ago, culled most of the eggs but I found ~5 survivors... No room to raise but i feel bad about killing them now that they're developed ;___;
Does anyone here make his/her own fish food?
I want to try it someday soon.
pic related, i'm making it for angelfish
It's pretty easy to make fish food, just grind up a good variety of fresh seafood (fish, shrimp, squid, scallops, etc) then add some nor and algae powder (most health food stores have it) mix fish and plant mixture into flavorless gelatin. Also add more protein for carnivorous fish or more plant matter for herbivores.
Are these legit? I really want to grow these
I've never seen an arapaima for sale, but that would be the one. They're beautiful fish. It would be really cool if there was a smaller strain of them.
Fun fact, I once got curious about the actual potential growth of an Arapaima and did some research. I found this http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/the-true-size-of-arapaima-gigas.168521/. Op makes some well reasoned and reaserched response and you know what people's response was? The TLDR is one of the poster went "Shut no they don't. I've seen tons of 5m ones. I'm not going to provide proof though". In stead of calling him out on his conjecture all the other poster started white knighting him. Man fuck fish forums.
I've seen them on fishing trips and they're scary as shit. I have no clue how big this male and female were but they were about the length of the boat which was 8ft. Old and beaten with plenty of scars.
Just googled arapaima and wow these fuckers are scary. I'll stick with tetras.
Because it's Reddit. Where the retards go to play.
>i just bought a big ass aquarium I think 20 gallons
>got a tetra filter and colorful gravels
>added 20 guppy and neon tetra and everything is dying why?
That's /r/aquarium for you
guys guys my mollies had babies
how do I make sure they don't die
I've got an empty aquarium (250L), which I'm considering using to grow me some food. But what and/or how? I'm considering either prawns, lobsters, clams or some kind of seaweed. Any suggestions on what I should choose (and preferly best way to have succes with it)? Edible coldwater clams would be ideal - but I'm open to suggestions.
also, is this thing going to eat my babies?
it looks evil
My beta died two days ago. I sent him out of this world in the proper way by putting him on a little boat, lighting it on fire, then casting him off at the nearby river.
I've got a 5.5 gal. What should I fill the tank with next? I was thinking some Ghost or Cherry shrimp.
That was the plan. Cheese will be missed.
He only lived in the tank for about two months before passing away, so I wasn't able to completely design around his colors. I'm up to changing the decor around a bit. There's not a whole lot of places for shrimp to hide, but there'd be no predators, so it shouldn't be that big of a deal.
Having plants that grow faster than algae. The way it is supposed to work is that the plants outcompete the algae for nutrients.
You can help this along by stocking snails/shrimp/etc that prefer eating alage to plants.
I really want one of those, but there's no way I could fit a big enough tank in my apartment. They should breed a miniature arowana called the miniwana, that gets to an average cichlid size.
>Zebras are air-breathing mammals that need a few acres of space, a 125L tank won't do.
Maybe because those are the popular species to keep. I've never seen your monster fish get ousted from the thread, you just need to post them more often if you want them to be prevalent.
>these fuckers are scary
>I'll stick with tetras
I guess the red dragon varieties come pretty close to the look without as much deep face.
But can we go even smaller?
>when will gmo give us what we really want?
My vote is for red, orange, or yellow Neocaridina shrimp. They'll show up really nicely against the dark gravel. If you can get some moss, that would help keep them happy as well.