So I blocked out a scene from some sketch I found on pinterest. Looking to do relatively low poly / hand painted environment. I mainly do animation but I wanted to give this a shot since I've been told by a few people that i'm good at texturing so I want to give this little environment a shot.
What do you guys think?
How could I improve what I have so far?
ps. im a shit modeler pls dont shit on me too hard.
If you can paint/paint textures(2d art drawing, painting with tablet or something, you know what I mean???) it could turn out nice, just directly draw onto the model. If you can't, dont even bother.
If he cleans up his mesh a bit and makes it a bit more stylised AND he is able to handpaint textures I don't see why it has to turn out shitty.
I have experience hand painting textures. I stopped doing it almost two years ago so I'm fairly rusty. This is what I was able to accomplish for a school assignment. Did fairly well on the brick but fucked up the texture on the sidewalk due to time constraints.
As for cleaning up the mesh, what could you suggest that I do? If you could give some tips to make it more stylized I'd gladly appreciate it.
also I have a feeling UVing this will be aids.
Found my first model ever that i started and never finished. Actually after i started doing it i stopped and then didnt touch 3d for years. Feel like i should remake it with the idea i had going at that point in 2002.
>As for cleaning up the mesh, what could you suggest that I do? If you could give some tips to make it more stylized I'd gladly appreciate it.
I made this for practice. I didnt use a grid most of the time and didnt try to be acurate and just moved verts around without any grid, which makes it look more messy and you can make it look more stylized.
Try to learn character modelling my brain hurts. Four months and still can't make anything that isn't garbage.
Looks like it back to making props. Will post some here when I start again tomorrow.
Lesson learned never do character art as making props and environments are easier.
I'm not giving up just focusing on modo and doing hardsurface. I might look into doing a space helmet for a prop.
I don't know how else you mean't to get good at character. Anatomy is really hard and is taking ages to learn.
A few weeks until my 2nd year of 3D modeling.
I use Blender and Zbrush. Zbrush 99% of the time.
I'm trying to learn rigging and animation, but I feel like I am absolutely wasting my time with Blender.
Should I stop right now? I have Maya 15 opened in fact.
All the tutorials I've watched for rigging in Blender frustrated me, then I watched 3 minutes of a Maya tutorial and it's eons ahead of Blender. Blender feels reserved for retards and children; clunky, UI, etc.
I guess I answered my own question..
Does anyone have any reference to start animating for games? I'm going to be using UDK. Animation is an entirely different beast I have to tackle and the first time I've felt this anxious about modeling since I began. Keep in mind, I'm reading the UDK manual and watching Maya tutorials.
Last question, I looked up reference for topology, and know what good topology looks like for animating. But, how does Valve have 500 poly base meshes for DotA with the worst topology I have EVER seen and still make fluent, amazing animations? All I've read on /3/ is how important topology is, but when you look at any DotA 2 model, it's a fucking nightmare.
this is the complete model.
Would I go animate this initially without his accessories/clothes? Then add on the clothes?
Hey mate that's really awesome that you could make it so charming in a subtle way by going out of your way to give it imperfections. But that viewport lighting. . . how did you get that!?
whats the problem with blender?
>Does anyone have any reference to start animating for games?
any animating is good for games
>what good topology looks like for animating.
you are ok with zremesher for now, just set it up to 0.7 or something
Use blender internat, set to material view and add a sunlight at an angle, make the color of the shadow of the sunlight to a brighter value instead of black. the light side is rendered view with ambient occlusion enabled.
re-render of my fox
anyone know how to do proper lightning setup with toon shader?
Making some progress on this body, I've mostly worked on the torso. I'm aiming for a generic body that I can adjust later. Currently at 14,800 tris total and I hope to keep it beneath 20k excluding the hair.
Any suggestions for topology improvements?
Should I make the waist wider or is this wide enough, I am not aiming for realistic british proportions.
I don't see it at all. Though it does make me wonder if I should pull that one edge loop around the eye socket further in. Comparing the two I noticed the rectangle on the brow ridge is inside the eye socket instead of on the brow, might make deformations there ugly.
decided to shot my own textures with my galaxy s3 slim and did this as a test. Turned out better than i expected
For the head I used box modeling but for the body I used a simplified shape that I approximated to references. After that I used retopology to create the chest, that did take quite a while because I fucked up on the ribcage flow.
I spend a lot of time cleaning the loops and creating the shape, the head took me about 3 days. I think it mostly boils down to experience and having a firm grasp on topology. Results such as >>504644 aren't bad and aren't far off from >>504624. The main difference is that the former is more stylized and has more emphasis on the cheekbones and a face that isn't as flat.
These tutorials have been the most helpful for box modeling, just ignore his voice. The first 3 parts are enough to get all the important loops and get a decent enough shape. After that he just keeps tweaking them until it dives into the uncanny valley.
found a sculpt of happy pepe, retopo it, not that good in 1-2 hours, this is the result. I plan to rig it, sculpt trump hair and model a suit
It would save me some time and maybe I'd use it for low-poly background characters but I'd rather enjoy creating my own resources. I think my model does looks slightly more stylized than those from makehuman so the results wouldn't be the same.
Is this stupid?
I normally model by using a ton of control edges and using subd. It just stuff like this I get a mess with a ton of control edges.
I started with a pretty shitty base model but didnt have the time to make a new creature. So I decided to work with it. I have one more week to add final details and to fix stuff. I'm thinking boots to hide the shitty feet, and an image of an eye to replace the eyes
he has potential, but feels very bland and naked. Give hime som leather armor strips, scars, wear and tear.
his hands have been amputated, the metal would create rust and dirt at the end of the arms,
Spice him up and give him some personality man.
I need a little help understanding how to enforce the shape after turbo smoothing. I currently have pic related going on, where the corners get all fucked up on the inside.
These are the original vertices/edges before chamfer/turbosmooth. I want to retain the box shape without the curves.
Working on the knees now, the topology seems to bend properly although I might need to add a loop to get the shape of the kneecap.
Working on this interior scene, still very WIP
I'm trying to figure out what the fuck is wrong with my dome hdri (that causes the black line)
I see this a lot with HDRIs. I'm not sure what causes it, but it's like the image wraps around the top half of the sphere and the bottom half is black. I don't know any fix, and i find usually the HDRIs doing this are low quality, so it could just be poorly created.
Nice WIP btw. it reminds me of the shitty house my grandparents used to own.
Look into changing that rug; it looks a lot like grass.
Look at the hdri, if this black part is there then it was made like that, there's nothing you can do.
If not then it's probably some mapping issue.
How can anything below horizon bein disabled?
I just created a vray dome light, using a vray hdri as a texture, and ofcourse I set it as spherical (and the hdri's resolution is high)
Also, another pic
I guess changing the colour was easier than making it look less grass-like.
Anyway, here are some things that I noticed on first glance:
>everything is matte
The only thing that isn't is the bowl on the coffee table.
Why not give the lamp above and the coffee table some gloss too?
>bricks are too big
You have 16 rows of bricks in your render. Now if you google "brick wall apartment" you can see just how little 16 rows is.
>everything is too perfect, lacks "life"
Consider using more props, like a book and a pair of glasses, or a glass of water and a napkin, something that tells a story about the kind of person that inhabits this environment.
The cushions on the sofa are too perfect, maybe add a slight indentation, make them look just a tiny bit used so that it doesn't look so sterile / lifeless.
Other than that the render is good, it's really just these minor details that I think you should pay attention to.
Thanks a lot for the tips, I'll make good use of them
For now I'm just trying to figure out what's the problem with my hdri, I've tried to turn off the vray dome and just use the hdri in the environment slot, no more black line, but I'm wondering, it works the same way? I mean, the result in my lighting is the same? If so, why using a dome light instead of standard environment?
you need to bring light in the house
"photorealism" isn't what gonna make this render good, you need to a have a middle point so the viewer can focus his attention towards, still need to see how the light affect the wood and the metal
you can probably fix this in post but strengthen the light in the house, i quite like the soft orangish glow but there's not enough of it also that brick wall looks like shit, the texture is really fucking bad and there's nothing on that wall. try placing a tall plant where the light hits it
Protip. If you are not an architect don ´t improvise. Try to reproduce a actual interior where you have access to dimensions.
Believe me, you can make all the technical stuff within your software right but if you don ´t have the basic proportions you are screwed.
Made this texture feel free to use it.
Not gonna discuss the technical stuff. But man that camera angle doesn´t help. Try to do something simpler so you can control better what appears in the scene and in which plane.
Thanks for those, I used it, as you cansee here, bump is something like 60, pretty high, how is it?
Actually I chose that angle cause I was trying to reproduce a 2d image of a room design, so I've tried to match the same angle, well, I guess it is pretty bad right?
Added more specular to both, actually the lamp was pretty specular already, I guess that the light angle just won't show any good reflection (as you can see in the image)
By the way I'm using 3d studio max and vray (Irradiance+Light Cache)
Not sure, would need it?
Trying to make the taillights and headlight. Not too sure what I'm doing
Just having some fun. Don't hate me.
Now I just have to do the low poly.Figure out how you can explode bake. Figure out how to do PBR and make it look like spirited away look in marmoset. This is going to take me awhile.
I figured out how to isolate the parts I want to make glow in post using the "use background" shader, but I have no idea how to actually create glow from that alpha cut.
The default glow that maya makes in post is shitty and the different glows fight with each other (pic related, the tail light is supposed to be much brighter.
Here's the alpha cut I have (I changed the colors a bit to actually see it). Where do I go from there ? The filters like gaussian make it almost dissapear.
That image is not a UV snapshot, it's a render of the actual mesh that must glow (From that perspective of the camera)
The parts that glow on the hover bike completely glow, there's no UVs involved. Sorry I'm not really clear.
What are you using to add glow in post? If it's photoshop, pirate MagicBullet photolooks plugin and use that on a black and white render of the glowing areas. then obviously set it to screen.
Or if you dont wanna get MBL, try render the glow areas on transparency and use filter > other > minimum to expand the pixel edge and give you more pixels to work with.
or try just taking what render you already have of the glow, blur it by 3-5 pixels, duplicate, flatten, blur again, repeat until you have a larger base to work with.
Thanks, the blur, duplicate then merge trick works. Pic related for the skids (It's not that great in this case tough because it seems that maya does its own post-glow with far better anti-aliasing than the final render it produces.
How on earth do I salvage this pile of wank? I made the topology decent enough to be able to tweak the shape but no matter what I try it never looks right.
I just took the glow layer and shifted the brightness up to max so all the edge pixels are pure white, add a few glow layer style duplicates, one on screen, one on colour dodge, at varying opacities, and a bit of a blur / motion blur for some glow.
Forehead looks to far to the back, it's also too pointy in the front and should be far smoother and flatter. Nose looks too big for anime, needs to be cuter.
The mouth is terrible, mouth corners are too far forward and should go into the face. It also needs more definite shape, from the side those faces still have well defined lips.
Just a guess but I also think the entire face isn't flat enough.
Did you base it entirely on 2d references? That never works out because the faces aren't drawn with perspective in mind. First sculpt or build a head with primary shapes until you think it looks anime-like enough in perspective mode.
Also post front and side wireframes.
So basically, everything is awful then, as I figured. It was a mishmash of a 2D reference and a 3D topology; I think rather than dealing with that any more I should just suck it up and work my way through learning zBrush, since I'll have a lot more ability to manipulate basic forms there.
No shame in making mistakes. Human anatomy is incredibly difficult to master. There are so many nuances to be aware of in order to avoid the uncanny valley. It takes a lot of practice. Don't get discouraged.
That's the big problem I had, see. I couldn't quite figure out exactly why it looked wrong as a combination of inexperience and having stared at the model for so damn long. Just that it 'looked wrong'. Thanks for the feedback, though. Maybe this time I'll actually stick with zBrush now I have somewhat a goal in it.
It has some ngon surfaces but it doesnt matter because
1, They are flat surfaces
2, it wont be deformed anyway
3, Its not subdivision modeling or something
4, dont listen to dipshits and memeposters on /3/ who get a tantrum when they see something that is not a quad, or else you will never get gud.
Making a lantern. I can't figure how to make a 2d chain like pic related
Make a texture for a single link (or the whole chain if you want to change the end).
Apply it to a plane, duplicate it and shift it till one goes 'through' the other. Isn't particularly complex, though you will need to measure out the 'gaps' in the texture.
Was digital painting last week. Wanted to try out 3d modeling this week
Yeah, it's useful. not terribly secure, though.
Currently trying to make some brown rock sugar for a small scene. I tried to make both the actual geometry and the shader 100% procedural, which is pretty practical. Render times are horrendous, though.
As far as I know brown sugar is darker/has dark spots inside, is less see-through and it has this white powdery diffuse surfaces on edges and rougher surfaces and white powder particles around and all around its not very reflective. Kinda similar to raw amber.
Dont get me wrong, its good so far, but maybe even try a totally different approach and get rid of the glass/ice like shader completelly and try a subsurface scattering shader or a translucent shader instead(or mix a slight reflective surface with a subsurface shader)
I'm working on a simple bipedal rig for the first time and am running into issues with the IK handles.
When I set the IK handle from the hip joint to the ankle joint, it seems to work fine, except for when I twist the pelvis. The feet should stay planted when I rotated the pelvis once the IK handle is in place, shouldn't they?
When I rotate the pelvis, the feet still move even though the IK handle has been placed. I'm not sure why this is occurring.
Any insights or advice is greatly appreciated
Renderer is VRay.
The only maps used are the standard noise and cellular maps that come with 3DS Max.
The method I used to create those rocks is basically this one, with a few tweaks here and there: https://vimeo.com/10163233
Once you get a feel for it you can create sculpted looking rocks in minutes. Creating multiple different looking rocks is as easy as fiddling with the map settings for a few seconds.
You're right, it was supposed to look a bit rougher and less shiny. I actually rendered that one with incorrect blend settings for the powder/damage layer, so it's constrained mostly to the edges. It was supposed to look more like this one.
Still, I didn't mean for it to look quite as dull as the sugar in your picture. I actually used some sugar I had at home for reference, and it looked a lot cleaner and shinier than that.
I'm rigging this model for a friend and am having some trouble getting the floating eye/teeth geometry to follow the head geometry after skinning. I figured parenting the eyes/teeth under the head would work but I suppose it doesn't work that way.
Anyone know the best way to do this?
you need to bind the teeth to the lower jar bone and the eyes to the eye bones, which should be part of your head rig. If you dont want to animate the eyes and mouth and you only have one bone for the head, you bind them to it.
After rigging my character, I go to File > Send to MotionBuilder, and the rig imports very brokenly into MotionBuilder.
Any idea why this is occurring? I think it's due to not having a "bind pose" set for the rig. I'm not entirely sure how to go about making one.
Yep, all my controls are set to 0 or 1 (0 for transform/rotate, 1 for scale).
I also set a keyframe for all keyable channels for the controls on frame 0, which I figured would set up my bindPose, but it's telling me it can't find a bind pose for bn_pelvis01, and I'm not sure why.
The rig works fine inside Maya, but once I import to MotionBuilder, it just poops itself for some reason.
>but it's telling me it can't find a bind pose for bn_pelvis01
You probably bound the skin with "Allow multiple bind poses" on in the options.
It's giving me that error when i bind the skin with that on.
You can save the skin weights, export them somewhere. Clear the history on the mesh, and rebind it with that option off.
If you do that, you might fuck up something else though.
I need help with a few things which I've marked in the picture
1) How can I get the lines on the rope to align?
2) How can I extend the uv unwrap?
Forget about number three. I figured it out
for number 1) well, you have to make it match, edit it so it fits or hide it
2) UV maps are allways interpreted as a perfect square, you have to make it fit, try this:
alternate the orientation of the sides of the post, the top part is wider, if you put it upsidedown you will have more room to fit all
This project is going to be a nightmare of little details
I'm following Peter Massive Blender tutorial, but it comes out crap.
Is there any better tutorials for low poly character?
Still need to work on the snow. When using SSS do you have to have a fully closed off mesh or can you use a 2D plane?
>When using SSS do you have to have a fully closed off mesh or can you use a 2D plane?
It doesn't matter.
You're probably not using blender, but since you're making snow you might want to check this out:
Also how does it not matter? I thought something like SSS would treat a closed object like a cube as something with actual volume and a plane as say, paper (excluding its tiny amount of volume).
Mudbox isn't free. They killed it off and it's $10 a month now. It's not great for sculpting, but it's alright for painting. But you're much better off using Substance or Quixel for painting on your models.
Does either Substance or Quixel have good 3D painting tools ? Mudbox's dry brush is great when it works, but otherwise painting plates like for the droid I'm making can be quite the PITA.
Substance Painter and Quixel are literally all about 3D painting, you don't model in them at all. They far exceed Mudbox due to their procedurally aided texturing workflow. And Quixel gives you access to all of Photoshop's tools for painting on top of the unique stuff it offers. The scratched metal presets Quixel would already automatically give you a decent look without any real work, but obviously going in and doing some manual stuff is advised so it doesn't look as amateur.
I am mostly done with modelling, now I'd like fix how I render stuff.
Pic related was rendered with the objs raw from level 7 into maya, which produces a bloated 1.2gb .ma scene file.
Normally, I'd simply make a normal map but I want to be able to do an occlusion render pass (which can't see normals)
So how should I go about this ? Displacement map ? Displacement map + normal map ? I have no idea.
What you should have done is used proper edge-flow so that the model can be smoothed/subdivided at render time, not statically at such a high resolution, my lord... I'm not sure how you even managed to create a model that decent looking while not knowing the basics of subdivision modeling.
And on your "objectnameShape" tab in the Attribute Editor, you can scroll down to "Smooth Mesh", and set the "Render Division Levels" to the amount you want at render-time.
Did you make this in ZBrush? If so, you likely worked with Polygroups to make those shapes yes? Then you can use zRemesher with Autogroups to create topology that can be smoothed at render-time.
But since you're already basically done, just use a Displacement map. You can use the AO from whatever renderer you're using too, no need to bake it.
I used mudbox to carve in the shapes. I know how to model with edgeloops (pic related) but I don't think it can be of any help with the mesh I have right now.
I'll try displacement maps again then. When I baked it last time I tried it came out a bit faceted. Is there any point in using a normal map along with it ?
Working on a truck. How do I model the inside of it?
Is the right thing to do cut out an area for the driver seat/steering wheel and shove an object in there?
First, get the outside to actually look like the truck. It's currently not even close.
Then, you model the inside like anything else, piece by piece. Model a seat, a steering wheel, the dashboard, and so on.
But in both the inside and outside, you need to be using reference images. If you can't find them for that particular truck, then at least sketch some yourself.
Trying to figure out how Ian did the dark souls animal cross vg challenge so I can copy his art style for a game.
I don't like the way the hair on his head clips into his scalp. Also his eyebrows are too blonde.
lastly his skull seems stretched horizontally in the center pic. If you look at the 3rd picture from the left, the skull is not that wide. Don't use picture 2 as your reference for the skull. use it as a reference for the hairline
Added doors, handle bar, seat and dashboard.
I need to make metal frame like in the reference pic. should I use a plane with an alpha texture of a fence or should I model one for low poly?
First time doing 'organic' modeling. Pleasantly surprised on how it's coming out, although there are a few mistakes with mesh topology.
(are 3DCG boobs allowed here anyway?)
the aforementioned fucked up mesh topology. Is this salvageable?
attempted this style, not as good as i would i like it to be
Alright, so after two nights of hair pulling I figured out how to get the same render quality without using the raw mesh from Mudbox.
I think the file size difference speaks for itself (1,92gb vs <1mb)
Nah, if it was that easy I would have been done long ago. Normal maps don't support ambient occlusion, as far as I know.
I baked a displacement map from level 7 to level 5 and then subdivided the actual mesh to 5 only for rendering.
I kept getting faceted surfaces before but the 7 -> 5 trick did it.
OR you know. bake the AO then re apply it in post... you could use your bump map and just darken the colors in the recessed areas and it will work just as well as AO in such a simple model
First time sculpting anything in half a year, was so anxious to make marks but now i can do something.
Just to make sure I get this, you mean bake the AO and darken the diffuse with it. And then, swap the displacement map for a normal map ?
The only issue I see is that the contour of the body wouldn't have relief anymore, unless I overlooked something
also forget >>505932
I could still make the head -body AO work with baked AO, I think
topo reminds me of this
Yeah, it would loose contour. Those kids seem to think people only model for games. Normal maps are only used for fine details when it comes to production rendering, and even then displacement mapping is usually used instead, because physical shapes always trump faked normal lighting. We just don't usually do that in games do to the performance hit for a real-time situation. Though real-time tessellation+displacement is starting to become normal in AAA games, and in fact Maya's viewport can do real-time displacement and tessellation if you turn it on in the Smooth Mesh settings of your Shape node.
Does Maya 2016 have a tool that can round holes? I can't find it anywhere.
and related, quite useful:
Just paste them into the script editor, and at the top right you can add the script as a button to your shelf so it's always there to use. Can even assign a hotkey to any shelf button.
Works fine for me in 2016, while in vertex mode...
If you don't like that one, try one of the many other ones on that site, there a tonnes of great scripts for different things, but this one works fine desu.
So...does it matter if there's a bit of space left in the UV map? Every step I take is an uncertain one. All I'm doing is going into each (detached) room and:
Relax Until Flat -> Rescale Elements -> Pack Together (with rescale off) -> Pack Normalize
Is there something I'm missing, or something else I should be doing?
Rarely should you ever expect a computer to do a good job on its own.
It matters if your mesh doesn't end up having a high enough resolution on its faces because you are not fully utilizing your UVs.
Reposition it yourself if it's a problem.
Pack another room in with it. There's no point leaving empty space in your textures like that.
Idk why you're using so much auto packing. Stop being lazy and pack your own Uvs, it almost always works out better that way.
Yeah, getting more filled in here. All different stages- some of the handle area is final/nurbs.
I need some hair tips.
The face is going to be redesigned, but im worried about the hair right now.
my redesigns of the face are already unrecognizably different from the image I posted.
Honestly, I don't know what I was thinking. I drew this face in image planes that I really liked, but I guess it just didnt translate to 3d well.
Anyways, I know how to model faces but polygonal hair has always been tough for me.
I'm so confused. All I did was shell, outer. Cleaned up, and the outside has this weird lighting issue now (the black line on the left). The right side shows what I did to correct it, which was deleting the faces and bridging the edges back.
How can I prevent this in the future?
did some weighting, added details. I have about 2 hours per day to throw at this, lately.
Anyone working on any cool projects that they might need help on? I keep starting shit but just throw them off to the side. I feel like working on a motivated team would actually get me places.
Finalized (client said he was happy and I was paid, file sent out).
i've been making this heavy duty mauler aircraft
I'm not sure if that's fanart or not but I would never think of it as an aircraft.
Solid visual appeal, altough I seems you slapped a lot of different mesh together to make the shapes, with no concern for mesh contuinuity. If you want to take it further than that grey shading that's no good.
Figured I wouldn't start a new thread for this, but...
I'm new to this, decided to make a mug. Simple shit, right? Well how the fuck do I get rid of THIS!
I want the walls of the mug perfectly flat, but their bending in towards the handle, which is not what a mug looks like.
This is what my wire looks like. Seems like no matter where I place loops to strengthen edges, the problem is never fixed.
quick and dirty sculpt using dynamic topology in blender, based on a drawing i found online
>always wanted to learn 3d but had shit pc
>tried to use blender but i'm too dumb for it
>good software is expensive as fuck for me
>this is the sixth year i'll spend on /3/ lurking
... nice work, guys.
enjoy this thing i made years ago.
Macro cannon, trying to practice out some modelling skills and getting details in. Still very much WIP, especially with humans on the ground
working on base color pallete and retopology, I dont think im going to animate this, let alone do a face rig, but I want to make shure it's good topology for animation
I replicated your mug in 3Ds max to see your problem, you could andjust your cup handle to be better aligned to the body, or add a loo between the body of the mug and the handle
this is looking really good. my only comment is that the insides of the ears should go in deeper to make the model look a little bit more believable
it's a minor issue but i think it would definitely improve it
smoothing groups doesnt seem to save pinching, and I'm almost to the point of cutting my dick off after hours of researching and trying techniques to get rid of this pinching. thank you though